Why does my amp turn off when I play a CD?
#1
Why does my amp turn off when I play a CD?
Hello I am in need of some assistance. I own a 2000 Maxima that is equipped with the Bose system. I recently installed my amp and subs from my old car into my Maxima. The amp and subs work fine while playing the radio, however, the amp powers off when I play a cd. I had to install the PAC AOEM-NIS2 unit for RCA's and remote to hook up my amp. I think the problem may have something to do with the remote lead but im not sure how to fix it. Thanks for your help!
#2
Your remote on wire is hooked into the power antenna wire probably. When you switch to CD, the car puts down the antenna right? You can't use that setup for your amp.
You need to hook up the remote power on wire to something that lights up with ignition, there's usually several places in the fuse block...
You need to hook up the remote power on wire to something that lights up with ignition, there's usually several places in the fuse block...
#3
Your remote on wire is hooked into the power antenna wire probably. When you switch to CD, the car puts down the antenna right? You can't use that setup for your amp.
You need to hook up the remote power on wire to something that lights up with ignition, there's usually several places in the fuse block...
You need to hook up the remote power on wire to something that lights up with ignition, there's usually several places in the fuse block...
If you're using the OEM-1, check to make sure you didn't tap the Blue wire on the input side... that's the power antenna. Tap the blue/white wire on the output side, that's the remote turn on. (I'm working from memory here so forgive me if I'm off a little, but the manual for the OEM-1 should tell you)
Good luck!
#4
One note. If you have a remote turn on option, use that instead of an accessory wire connection. The accessory lead will power up your amp before your radio comes on and you'll usually get an annoying pop when the radio powers up and starts sending signal. The remote turn on will only put power to the amp when it needs to have it, not the whole time the car is running.
#6
Thanks for the help, my suspicions were correct. The weird thing about the PAC unit was I thought it was supposed to spit out a remote lead (blue and white) but it spits out a power antenna lead (blue). So i assume I need to figure out a different location for the remote lead? Any suggestions?
#7
Thanks for the help, my suspicions were correct. The weird thing about the PAC unit was I thought it was supposed to spit out a remote lead (blue and white) but it spits out a power antenna lead (blue). So i assume I need to figure out a different location for the remote lead? Any suggestions?
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/5th...ing-codes.html
Last edited by Joeker82; 10-12-2010 at 06:52 PM.
#11
Oh nice.. I was just about to ask if I would have to cut to tap, which I dont really want to but will if necessary. Are those common in hardware stores? And if I cut would it mess up anything else? Sorry im kinda new to car audio.
#12
If you cut it, just splice and reconnect. Use a pigtail connector. I would avoid cutting if you can, Just pick up some of those. Shouldn't be more than $5 bucks, you get 5 or so in a package.
Last edited by Joeker82; 10-12-2010 at 07:43 PM.
#15
Thanks for the help, my suspicions were correct. The weird thing about the PAC unit was I thought it was supposed to spit out a remote lead (blue and white) but it spits out a power antenna lead (blue). So i assume I need to figure out a different location for the remote lead? Any suggestions?
#16
Yea Im gonna double check before I call them but Im positive the wire on mine has no white stripe.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AOEM-NIS2.html
Check out the large image of it and you can plainly see that one has a blue n white stripe.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AOEM-NIS2.html
Check out the large image of it and you can plainly see that one has a blue n white stripe.
#17
If it were me, I'd get a meter, put it on 12vDC and check the wires on the input side. Seeing as your system has an amp, it most likely has a remote turn on that's coming in from the factory harness to the OEM-1. Judging by this picture of the ADD-NIS2 harness, there is a blue/white wire in the same harness as the purple/green speaker wires. Use your meter on that wire and a ground with the radio in CD player mode. If you've got 12v on it, put a t-tap on that wire and go for it!
It's worth a shot.
It's worth a shot.
#19
Okay I messed with it for a minute and im kinda confused. The PAC unit does spit out a remote wire on the output end along with the RCAs. However, on the input end of the PAC unit there is no remote wire, but there is a power antenna. There is a remote wire within the PAC unit but it runs directly from the input connection for the HU to the output in the factory harness. And I dont see a remote wire on the factory harness.. WTF?
#20
And ekrunch that picture is a different PAC unit then the one I have. I posted a link to the one I have.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AOEM-NIS2.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AOEM-NIS2.html
#21
And ekrunch that picture is a different PAC unit then the one I have. I posted a link to the one I have.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AOEM-NIS2.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...AOEM-NIS2.html
#22
This AOEM Kit Includes the following:
The last harness is the one I was referring to. The harnesses should have tags on them that say AMP-RCA and ADD-NIS2. Which ones do you have?
#24
You hooked youre remote turn on wire from the amp to the power antenna input by accident on the headunit, which is why when you switch the source input to CD the amp turns off because it has no need for the power antenna to be in use for a cd. Look for the remote turn on wire (usually blue/white or Blue) on the headunit. If there is not one available, hook youre remote wire into a a +12v switched input
#25
You hooked youre remote turn on wire from the amp to the power antenna input by accident on the headunit, which is why when you switch the source input to CD the amp turns off because it has no need for the power antenna to be in use for a cd. Look for the remote turn on wire (usually blue/white or Blue) on the headunit. If there is not one available, hook youre remote wire into a a +12v switched input
#26
I tapped into the remote amp turn on wire and got it workin! Thanks krunch n everyone else. Its weird how the PAC kit has the remote amp wire setup within it. The OEM1 spits out a remote wire, but the NIS2 remote wire goes directly from the HU to the factory harness, so it doesnt even connect to the OEM1. weird...
Now I just have to get my car running lol. Hit something the other day that screwed up my oil pan or something n all my oil leaked out :-(
Now I just have to get my car running lol. Hit something the other day that screwed up my oil pan or something n all my oil leaked out :-(
#27
I tapped into the remote amp turn on wire and got it workin! Thanks krunch n everyone else. Its weird how the PAC kit has the remote amp wire setup within it. The OEM1 spits out a remote wire, but the NIS2 remote wire goes directly from the HU to the factory harness, so it doesnt even connect to the OEM1. weird...
Now I just have to get my car running lol. Hit something the other day that screwed up my oil pan or something n all my oil leaked out :-(
Now I just have to get my car running lol. Hit something the other day that screwed up my oil pan or something n all my oil leaked out :-(
#28
I tapped into the remote amp turn on wire and got it workin! Thanks krunch n everyone else. Its weird how the PAC kit has the remote amp wire setup within it. The OEM1 spits out a remote wire, but the NIS2 remote wire goes directly from the HU to the factory harness, so it doesnt even connect to the OEM1. weird...
Now I just have to get my car running lol. Hit something the other day that screwed up my oil pan or something n all my oil leaked out :-(
Now I just have to get my car running lol. Hit something the other day that screwed up my oil pan or something n all my oil leaked out :-(
Glad that worked out for you man. It's weird that the OEM-1's remote did that, but stranger things have happened. Oh well, as long as it's working now!
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