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5th Gen Radio Heads: Your Input Needed

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Old Apr 9, 2012 | 01:21 PM
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5th Gen Radio Heads: Your Input Needed

I'm going to be upgrading the speakers in my '01 GXE very soon here, and having been out of the A/V loop for quite some years, I'd like to get some input/suggestions from you who are in the loop as to what's good out there these days. Here's my current situation:

Last year, I replaced the stock speakers with:
Front: Blaupunkt 5 1/4 components / tweeters in stock location
Rear: Kenwood 3-ways in back doors.
Sub: None

Last week, I replaced my HU with Kenwood DNX9990HD. However, when I turn it up, my front left speaker starts to crakle. Installer thinks it's blown (how it blew in 6 months with no umph driving it is beyond me).

Also, I got my hands on a rear deck with the cutout/mounting bracket & grill to add a 8" sub.

Installer is recommending I ditch the new rear deck, put a box in the trunk with two 10's, replace the door speakers with 6 1/2's using components up front & 3-ways in rear. He's suggesting going with either Infiniti Kappas and Rockford Fosgate subs, or all RF - either T1's or Primes.

He's waiting for me to decide before placing this week's order. What's the best bang for the buck?

Aside from that, I'm wondering whether I would be good with one amp for everything, or either having one amp for the fronts and a separate amp for the rears & sub, or whether I can do with just amping the sub/subs.

My goal is clear, crisp sound that's decent even when rolling on the highway with the windows down. I really don't care to be "bumping" to where people hear me rattling a block down the street.

That said, I'd like input as to:
1) which speakers to go with;
2) would 8" sub on rear deck suffice, or go with box in the trunk?
3) 1 amp or 2? Which kind?
4) given the HU I have, do I even need an amp for the door speakers?

All helpful input appreciated...
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:07 PM
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Well EuroDriver, right now, I'm rocking JL Audio 6.5 components up front, coaxials in the rear, with a 10 inch alpine type R sub. Total wattage, 300 (75x4) for the vocals, 500 for the sub. It sounds crisp and great, never regretted a dollar spent. But this might be a little too much "bump" for you.

However, I'll say to get the most of your speakers, you'll want to put an amp on them. Maybe you can look into a 5 channel amp, like this JBL 5 channel amp. You'll get a decent power sent to your vocal speakers along with another channel for a sub. You can go with some Polk db speakers. To me, they provided a nice bang for the buck. I picked up a set of 4 coaxials on crutch field before for about 105 dollars for all 4. Then on your sub, don't do something in the 8 inch deck. To mount a sub there, you'd need a free-air sub and those tend to be a bit more expensive. You can pick your self up a small 10 that will provide a little low end to relieve your door speakers from playing those bass notes. This setup won't be too ridiculous and will definitely be a upgrade from stock. If you want, you can even keep your current speakers if you determine that they are not blown.
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:38 PM
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Thanks for the pointers. If I went with the box in the trunk, would it be a good idea to ad an 8" full-range speaker on the rear deck, or just leave it back back there?
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 02:41 PM
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You could leave it empty. My thoughts are that it's just a port for the air to come into the cabin
Old Apr 9, 2012 | 07:55 PM
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My thoughts exactly.

This is what I ended up ordering:
RF Punch P2 10" sub
RF T1 1652S 6 1/2" components for the front
RF T1 1653 6 1/2" 3-ways for the rear
RF T400 Power Series amp

I think I went overkill, but hopefully it will be clear, crisp sounding.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:06 AM
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Now that I have selected my equipment, here's my next question:

I was figuring I would go with a 5 channel amp (makes sense to me - 4 speakers & sub), but installer convinced me to go with a 4 channel. His suggestion is to run the front speakers on 2 channels, run the rear speakers off the HU and bridge the rear channels for the sub. He's firmly convinced it will give me the sound I'm looking for, and a 5 chennel is not going to have enough power to produce the ideal sound quality.

Any thoughts on this?

I'd hate for the car to spend 1/2 a day in the shop getting rewired and not have the rears done. Or, is he right in the suggested setup?
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by EuroDriver
Now that I have selected my equipment, here's my next question:

I was figuring I would go with a 5 channel amp (makes sense to me - 4 speakers & sub), but installer convinced me to go with a 4 channel. His suggestion is to run the front speakers on 2 channels, run the rear speakers off the HU and bridge the rear channels for the sub. He's firmly convinced it will give me the sound I'm looking for, and a 5 chennel is not going to have enough power to produce the ideal sound quality.

Any thoughts on this?

I'd hate for the car to spend 1/2 a day in the shop getting rewired and not have the rears done. Or, is he right in the suggested setup?

if you really want to go to a five channel you have to find one that has a sub rms output of like 300wats rms to get really good sound most dont have that
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by installer
if you really want to go to a five channel you have to find one that has a sub rms output of like 300wats rms to get really good sound most dont have that
That being the case, should I use the 4 channel for the speakers and get a separate amp for the subs, or am I just as well going with the setup the installer suggested?
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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It's really your call. I prefer the wiring simplicity 5 channel amps provide. They take up less real estate as well. As far as cost is concerned, usually the cost of 5 channel amps is slightly less or equal to the cost of combined speaker+sub amps.

And for wattage for the sub, you'll have to know what sub you're getting to make sure the amp is mated properly, OR, get the amp and find a sub that fits within the amp's capabilities.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by installer
if you really want to go to a five channel you have to find one that has a sub rms output of like 300wats rms to get really good sound most dont have that
The one i posted in my first post on this thread is about 275 rms. it's a pretty solid amp
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by djkevinnn
The one i posted in my first post on this thread is about 275 rms. it's a pretty solid amp
I already bought an amp I got the Fosgate T400-4

Originally Posted by djfrestyl
...for wattage for the sub, you'll have to know what sub you're getting to make sure the amp is mated properly, OR, get the amp and find a sub that fits within the amp's capabilities.
The sub I got is the Fosgate P2 - 10"

Installer's rationale is that that the rear speakers - FosgateT1652 (6.5" 3-ways) don't need to be amped because their function is only to fill the sound. I'm just wondering if the fronts (Fosgate T1652S - 6.5" components) are going to end up drowning them out.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by EuroDriver
Installer's rationale is that that the rear speakers - FosgateT1652 (6.5" 3-ways) don't need to be amped because their function is only to fill the sound. I'm just wondering if the fronts (Fosgate T1652S - 6.5" components) are going to end up drowning them out.
I agree with this. Bridge the 4 channels to 2 and power the rears off the HU. They won't get drowned out. Many people do this.

I had a 6 channel that I bridged to 3 (fronts and sub), and had NO rear speakers, and didn't miss them at all.
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by djfrestyl
I agree with this. Bridge the 4 channels to 2 and power the rears off the HU. They won't get drowned out. Many people do this.

I had a 6 channel that I bridged to 3 (fronts and sub), and had NO rear speakers, and didn't miss them at all.
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. glad to know I don;t have to spend more $$!
Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:04 PM
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Lol that's always a good thing.
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