Question about annoying remote wires not working with after market head units.
12-30-2012, 12:41 PM
#1
Question about annoying remote wires not working with after market head units.
whats up audio section of the org. ive got a question since im not an electronics expert, thats been bothering me. in my car when i installed my doubledin, my remote wire to my system no longer gave power to my amp. so i had to install it directly to the battery with a switch.
also, i just installed a head unit and system into my boys chevy aveo, and his car had the same problem! the subs and headunit worked in his old car, a mitsu mirage. but now, no matter that the remote wire is hooked up correctly through the headunit, it does not provide power to the amp. but hooking it directly up to the battery solves the problem.
what the hell is the deal with this? why does the remote wire not work with certain head units and certain cars? requiring you to hook it directly up to the positive battery terminal with a toggle switch? pisses me off.
also, i just installed a head unit and system into my boys chevy aveo, and his car had the same problem! the subs and headunit worked in his old car, a mitsu mirage. but now, no matter that the remote wire is hooked up correctly through the headunit, it does not provide power to the amp. but hooking it directly up to the battery solves the problem.
what the hell is the deal with this? why does the remote wire not work with certain head units and certain cars? requiring you to hook it directly up to the positive battery terminal with a toggle switch? pisses me off.
12-30-2012, 04:04 PM
#2
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 15
whats up audio section of the org. ive got a question since im not an electronics expert, thats been bothering me. in my car when i installed my doubledin, my remote wire to my system no longer gave power to my amp. so i had to install it directly to the battery with a switch.
also, i just installed a head unit and system into my boys chevy aveo, and his car had the same problem! the subs and headunit worked in his old car, a mitsu mirage. but now, no matter that the remote wire is hooked up correctly through the headunit, it does not provide power to the amp. but hooking it directly up to the battery solves the problem.
what the hell is the deal with this? why does the remote wire not work with certain head units and certain cars? requiring you to hook it directly up to the positive battery terminal with a toggle switch? pisses me off.
also, i just installed a head unit and system into my boys chevy aveo, and his car had the same problem! the subs and headunit worked in his old car, a mitsu mirage. but now, no matter that the remote wire is hooked up correctly through the headunit, it does not provide power to the amp. but hooking it directly up to the battery solves the problem.
what the hell is the deal with this? why does the remote wire not work with certain head units and certain cars? requiring you to hook it directly up to the positive battery terminal with a toggle switch? pisses me off.
As for your turn on wire needing a switch, you do not need to do that. If your head unit has a REM output use that. Or setup a simple relay that piggybacks off a switched power outlet in the car and run them that way. Much cleaner and safer.
12-30-2012, 08:11 PM
#3
im not saying they need a switch.
im saying sometimes a remote wire wont power an amp even though everything is hooked up correctly, unless i run it straight to the battery, in which case a switch is installed. remote wires that worked perfectly fine with an older head unit. but once its switched it no longer works that way and has to be run straight to the battery. doesnt make sense to me but ive come across other people whove had the same problem.
im saying sometimes a remote wire wont power an amp even though everything is hooked up correctly, unless i run it straight to the battery, in which case a switch is installed. remote wires that worked perfectly fine with an older head unit. but once its switched it no longer works that way and has to be run straight to the battery. doesnt make sense to me but ive come across other people whove had the same problem.
12-31-2012, 01:34 AM
#4
I tend to get a bit irritable
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Location: Central Jersey
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Hello there, it sounds like your switched wire in your factory harness could be getting grounded out somewhere, or that you have a blown fuse somewhere. Check the voltage with a voltmeter, also check all your fuses while you are at it. I have a feeling something could also not be hooked up right.
As for your turn on wire needing a switch, you do not need to do that. If your head unit has a REM output use that. Or setup a simple relay that piggybacks off a switched power outlet in the car and run them that way. Much cleaner and safer.
As for your turn on wire needing a switch, you do not need to do that. If your head unit has a REM output use that. Or setup a simple relay that piggybacks off a switched power outlet in the car and run them that way. Much cleaner and safer.
Surely you're not here to peddle services too ..
12-31-2012, 01:35 AM
#5
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,674
im not saying they need a switch.
im saying sometimes a remote wire wont power an amp even though everything is hooked up correctly, unless i run it straight to the battery, in which case a switch is installed. remote wires that worked perfectly fine with an older head unit. but once its switched it no longer works that way and has to be run straight to the battery. doesnt make sense to me but ive come across other people whove had the same problem.
im saying sometimes a remote wire wont power an amp even though everything is hooked up correctly, unless i run it straight to the battery, in which case a switch is installed. remote wires that worked perfectly fine with an older head unit. but once its switched it no longer works that way and has to be run straight to the battery. doesnt make sense to me but ive come across other people whove had the same problem.
12-31-2012, 05:54 AM
#6
it seems more to be a stock wiring issue. my old flip out screen worked with my system. i just used my integration kit and wired it up and it worked fine. but when i bout my kenwood doubedin, no matter how i wired it the amp wouldnt turn on with the car. had to wire it straight through.
12-31-2012, 12:02 PM
#8
also, im using a tsunami 0G wiring kit and am running about 500 rms. my boy is using a cheap 8G wiring kit, for a small enclosure im not sure of the specs on.
just recently put my boys headunit, amp, and system into his new car, a chevy aveo. the only thing new was the amp, the rest was installed and working, by me, in his old mitsu mirage. no in the chevy aveo, he encounters the same problem as me. when all wired up, the system will not turn on with the car. try every wire combination possible, and nothing. hook it up to the battery, and everythings perfect. so its not the grounds, all the fuses are good and have been checked. just cant figure out what the deal is.
Last edited by GGENIUS; 12-31-2012 at 12:06 PM.
12-31-2012, 12:11 PM
#9
also ive installed dozens of systems before, and never had this problem happen. only recently with the two mentioned cars. but ive asked people and they said theyve had the same thing happen, and just did what i did and ran it straight through with a toggle switch.
its not that its a big deal to leave it this way. i just want to know WHY
its not that its a big deal to leave it this way. i just want to know WHY
12-31-2012, 12:46 PM
#11
its a kenwood DDX419, and i used a scosche integration kit, in which i hooked my remote wire up to the blue constant 12v wire. i also tried it on the antennae power wire which is also blue. i dont remember the model of my friends headunit.
01-01-2013, 10:11 PM
#12
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
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Not sure which Scosche unit you used, but it is not, at all, needed. Blue is not a constant 12V, it is the antenna power lead. Blue/White is your amp turn on. Blue/Yellow is for Steering controls.
Are Any of the Blue wires going into/through the Scosche piece ? If so, why ? Run the Blue/White directly to your amp. Check with a meter prior to confirm output.
Are Any of the Blue wires going into/through the Scosche piece ? If so, why ? Run the Blue/White directly to your amp. Check with a meter prior to confirm output.
01-02-2013, 02:14 PM
#13
Not sure which Scosche unit you used, but it is not, at all, needed. Blue is not a constant 12V, it is the antenna power lead. Blue/White is your amp turn on. Blue/Yellow is for Steering controls.
Are Any of the Blue wires going into/through the Scosche piece ? If so, why ? Run the Blue/White directly to your amp. Check with a meter prior to confirm output.
Are Any of the Blue wires going into/through the Scosche piece ? If so, why ? Run the Blue/White directly to your amp. Check with a meter prior to confirm output.
Yep, this stuff ^.
BTW, Happy Belated BDAY sir.
01-03-2013, 11:41 AM
#17
Not sure which Scosche unit you used, but it is not, at all, needed. Blue is not a constant 12V, it is the antenna power lead. Blue/White is your amp turn on. Blue/Yellow is for Steering controls.
Are Any of the Blue wires going into/through the Scosche piece ? If so, why ? Run the Blue/White directly to your amp. Check with a meter prior to confirm output.
Are Any of the Blue wires going into/through the Scosche piece ? If so, why ? Run the Blue/White directly to your amp. Check with a meter prior to confirm output.
but like i said before, after the blue/white stripe wire did nothing, i tried hooking the remote up to the remaining solid blue wire, which of course did nothing and was just a test.
what fuses could have blown that i have to check? the fuses on the headunut/amp are all in perfect working order. why would it work directly to the battery but not with any combination to the headunit?
01-03-2013, 11:48 AM
#19
I tend to get a bit irritable
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yes, it blue white. mine was wired a year ago. it was the wire that said 12 volt amp turn on", and it had the white stripe on it. sorry im not good at remembering specific wires from a year ago i just said blue because it is mostly blue. why not scosche integrator? im just going by what crutch field said and sent me, specific to my car and the headunit, which was using the integrator that came with it. i did the same with my boys, ran it to the blue/white stripe that said "amp turn on" on it. but neither work unless i just run the remote straight to the battery.
but like i said before, after the blue/white stripe wire did nothing, i tried hooking the remote up to the remaining solid blue wire, which of course did nothing and was just a test.
what fuses could have blown that i have to check? the fuses on the headunut/amp are all in perfect working order. why would it work directly to the battery but not with any combination to the headunit?
but like i said before, after the blue/white stripe wire did nothing, i tried hooking the remote up to the remaining solid blue wire, which of course did nothing and was just a test.
what fuses could have blown that i have to check? the fuses on the headunut/amp are all in perfect working order. why would it work directly to the battery but not with any combination to the headunit?
Naturally Crutchfield or any other retailer with a potential profit to make would say you need something.
So is your current Blue/White going into the Scosche piece first, then from it to the amp ?If so, pull it and go Blue/White directly to the amp.
I never suggesting fusing, nor would I. Works directly from the battery because the battery is supplying 12V. Apparently whatever way it is wired - via the Scosche piece or anything else, the Blue/White is not supplying 12V.
01-04-2013, 07:36 AM
#20
Naturally Crutchfield or any other retailer with a potential profit to make would say you need something.
So is your current Blue/White going into the Scosche piece first, then from it to the amp ?If so, pull it and go Blue/White directly to the amp.
I never suggesting fusing, nor would I. Works directly from the battery because the battery is supplying 12V. Apparently whatever way it is wired - via the Scosche piece or anything else, the Blue/White is not supplying 12V.
So is your current Blue/White going into the Scosche piece first, then from it to the amp ?If so, pull it and go Blue/White directly to the amp.
I never suggesting fusing, nor would I. Works directly from the battery because the battery is supplying 12V. Apparently whatever way it is wired - via the Scosche piece or anything else, the Blue/White is not supplying 12V.
01-04-2013, 08:19 AM
#21
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
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Then check the output of the Blue/White with a meter. If it is not working, then there is something wrong with it.
01-04-2013, 04:38 PM
#22
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If he or the installer did not disconnect the harness from the factory harness before cutting the wires of the old head unit off, it could very easily of caused a short by cutting the ground and any of the power wires at the same time. Even could cause back feed into the other wires.
01-04-2013, 06:11 PM
#23
I tend to get a bit irritable
iTrader: (151)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central Jersey
Posts: 17,674
Sure, let's go with that theory ... then the fuse would be blown resulting in power to the deck. The flaw with your theory .. the deck HAS POWER, it is not turning on the amp. Do you even bother to read prior to replying ? You replied here 3 times, all with the same useless 'fuse' issue. Why ?
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