My first attempt at replacing the factory radio was a Kenwood X997. I was using the preouts because I don't feel like dealing with running wires. Worked fine at night, you just couldn't read anything on it during the day. So back that went to Crutchfield. I decided to go cheap after that and bought a Sony DSX-S210X. I can read the display no problem it's just the volume is low and gets distorted when I try to turn it up. It's supposedly 4v preouts.

I'm getting so irritated with this nonsense. What should I do? I considered running wires since I really only need the front speakers but I'm not crazy about the idea of drilling where I can't control where the metal shavings drop.
Do I just try again with another radio?

 

If your Bose speakers are fine you just need a limiter.

IMO the better way to do it is to run all new wires and ditch the Bose.

If your going that route, might as well get an amp to get the best sound, because the speaker wires would run to the amp and then the speakers.

Hope that helps you some....?

Edit: limiter may not be the right word..I have one, but it has been awhile..sounds right to me at the moment. Lol

 

I really want to avoid running wire. I am thinking about just replacing the amp. All I need is a mating connector for the harness at the amp. Anyone have a part number? I can layout a PCB and for the connector and pigtails for the preouts and power. A lot easier than running wire.

 

Easy does it. No need to replace or run wires, solder, remove amps, etc. You can't replace the amp unless you plan on replacing the speakers too.

If the '4v preouts' from the Sony are too low, all you need is a line output converter. It will convert your high level speaker wire outputs into a lower level which the Bose amp can handle.

The SLC-4 will do the trick.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-cJrxqt4...onverters.html

 

^^ converter. My mistake.

 

All good, sir!

 

hmmm.. take the speaker level outputs and convert them to preout level, pump them into the bose amp which is now driving my Polk Momo speakers?

Or
I just ordered a connector that mates to the wiring harness that plugs into the bose amp, design a pcb for the connector to preouts/power/etc, buy a new small amp that's sufficient to drive my speakers. Only problem with that is I would no longer have a sub.
Unless I bought a 5-ch amp, but all of those are huge (power). I was thinking just a small 4-ch would be fine. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020XC14....html?tp=35782
Will I miss the sub?

 

Interesting that your Bose amp is powering Polk speakers.

Why don't you just power the speakers off the aftermarket HU (direct, bypass the amp) for the time being until you decide what to do with your sub?

 

Can't do it without running new wire, which means drilling holes.

I almost did it this weekend but the only way to get it done was from the inside and there was just too many places for metal fly around and potentially cause me trouble down the road.

 

Not necessarily. You can just disconnect and run jumper wires around the amp from speaker input to speaker output.

And if you really wanted to run speaker wires directly into the door, you only have to drill from the kickpanel outwards to the front door, then sneak the wire into the existing grommet. It's a slightly awkward position, but it's definitely doable. Rear doors you can fish it right through.

 

Metra 70-7550 .. match the colors and be done. No need for converters or running any new wire.

 

Or the 70-7551 for you Bose drivers

 

No, not needed. He has Bose and my response still stands.

 

Sorry to thread jack, but this is semi-relivent to a question I asked in the stickies. If an aftermarket is already wired for a Bose system I should be good swapping to another aftermarket unit right? Just color match and call it a day?

 

Yes, but I don't understand 'already wired for Bose'.

 

As in, whatever crud needed to be wired for the Bose amp to still function. Audio stuff isn't really my thing. I've installed HU's in other cars but I was told it's "different" with the Bose. I just want to make sure the existing harness is all I need. I'll cut the spliced Kenwood off and just wire the new in. God I feel like a noob for asking this...

 

You already have an aftermarket head unit that works with your Bose system?

If so, then just wire it the same way.

 

Going from an old 1din Kenwood to a 2din dvd/navi. I figured it would be a straight swap but I was getting worried after reading some Bose horror stories. Not even going to attempt to find/wire existing gps antenna, ordered one I know works with the new HU.

 

I ended up drilling and running new wire. I'm now running just the fronts directly from the headunit. It sounds like crap. I'm taking it out this weekend and sending back to Crutchfield. I'm gonna try the Alpine CDE-147 or 148, a new amp and a sub. I also need to deaden the doors.
I miss my system from my old Maxima.

I was saving for headers but it looks like they won't be in stock anywhere this year.

 

Why are you making this much more difficult than it needs to be ? There was absolutely no need, or reason to run new wiring. Paired with the Bose amp, the speakers work just fine. You created more work and with an ill result.

 

Negative. I originally had the Bose amp running the speakers. It sounded like crap.

 

And you were using the preouts.

 

You can change models and brands all day long if you like, what exactly do you think is going to change? You are, again, just creating more work and hassle for yourself. Change the speakers if it's that bad, not the HU.

 

I think if I change the head unit, add an amp and a sub and quieten the doors a bit it will sound better. That's all.