Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Need some help in this department. Electronics im not good at but then again im not good at much of anything. Here is the issue, my system has been upgraded so its running a amp that is twice as powerful as before it also has twice as many aftermarket electronics supporting the motor and im noticing when bass hits not only do the lights dim but my idle "dims".

So its a Stock but New I30 120amp alternator w/Normal autozone battery, here is everything that has been added running off of them plus the normal electronics:

Alpine M605 (600W)
Boston Acoustics G2-12
Kenwood single din HU(soon to be Alpine S920HD)
Emanage Blue
E-01
AEM UEGO
Prosport oil pressure gauge
Prosport oil temp gauge
Defi Fuel pressure gauge
55W HIDs

Then there are things like the upgraded fuel pump which im sure draws more amps than stock, the new slim electric Rad fans which i want to add 2 more fans so that will be even more amps draw from the stock battery amp combo. What im worried about is what happens one day when im just feeling my music at night and there are is not enough power to push everything?

One think i will say is I am definitely against the "Big 3 Upgrade" im not a huge fan of bypassing some of the factory safe guards. Some say Caps help others say its useless, High amperage alternators are expensive, and adding a second battery, since we are all ricers and we know that batteries weigh 5000lbs they are the anti Christ but what should i be looking at doing to make sure my car has enough power to push everything?

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

Replace your battery with a tank like this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GM...&robot_redir=1

High output alternators should be used for audio competition cars only unless you have a wall or a jackhammer sub IMO.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

I was thinking about 200amp alternator if i could find one not from ebay for a decent price.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

jesus 79lbs battery? i might as well just run 2 decent local autopart store batteries. i really wish i could retrofit the Alternator from the E60 sitting outside onto the car it puts out a constant 14.9V at idle no matter what you do, A/C, system, lights on everything.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

It's only 77.8.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

You are not running nearly enough to warrant any upgrades.
Do the big three, or at least get a better ground on your amp. You aren't bypassing anything.
Why do you want more fans? Seems excessive.

maximaham

iTrader: (1)

Some one please help the poor kid.the big 3 is a upgrade not a bypass.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

3.5+Big turbo+confined space=heat.

My car is not using OEM fans, it has single speed slim aftermarket units. I know they are not as effective as the stock fans. The stock fans have 2 speed settings thats why there are 4 wires connecting them. I would like to continue to use that function, as auxiliary fans. Couple the slim fans with the fact that my radiator and turbo manifold are separated by about 1.5 inches, the more cooling power i can get the more comfortable i will feel.

That said maybe at max output of the alternator its enough. If the lights dim ok, that sort of thing happens with big systems but the fact that my idle has been effected is enough for me to start changing things. The main question is can everything be supported full power, the sound system, the lights, and the electronics running the car....at idle. Right now i dont think they can.

Like i said, I don't like the idea of the big 3, especially the alternator to battery, its not something im to excited about. I could be wrong about the bypassing of things but i would like to do everything but that. Remember its my car, my car has a history of the most obscure things go wrong so what i dont feel is right i dont do. Im asking for your advice not your ridicule. Period.

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

I've done the big three with a fuse on the wire going from the alternator to the battery. I didn't feel comfortable with not doing this. Upgrading your grounds is a good idea.

MaximaDrvr

iTrader: (1)

The mos likely problem:
Really bad amp ground. You amp pulls the current, then it struggles through the frame back to the battery.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

i'll try it re-doing the grounds. I have a 4 gauge ground wire running to the amp, its actually in very close proximity to the battery so maybe i just have to re do those and add some grounds in the trunk of the car and see if that solves the issue. Im thinking about upgrading the battery to a AGM unit aswell. Probably something off a late model BMW or Benz.

argenis69

iTrader: (2)

Make sure you have good grounds and a decent battery