swartzzz

I saw a post on another web page that people used an asphalt product from Owens Corning as a sound deadener. It was Owens Corning Ice and water shield. I guess from what I gathered at the Home Depot it has an adhesive backing and is considerably less expensive. I bet it would definitely be heavier... But mabey not. Let me know if you've heard of this...

Mikesburn

Hey, don't brake your heart on something nobody ever heard of.
My friend, well he is 49 years old, got the 5th place in IASCA, he is using the most professional Dyanmat, called RAAM Matt.
It's the same qlty *** EXTREME Dynamat, but a lot cheaper. If you need suggestions, where to get it, let me know!

jmax

I am pretty sure the Owens product is called Weatherguard. If it is followed by GS, that means granular surface. You don't want the granular surface. But to find the smooth surface you need to be in the north, at least PA. It is on Owens web site, so you can read about it there. And it is even cheaper than rammat. www.owenscorning.com

Most roofing manufactuers have similar products to these, and they have been used for speaker damping for tens of years.

Alexis

I have heard that with some roofing stuff, when it gets hot, your car smells like asphalt...Does this really happen, or is it just rumor?

I have heard nice things about RAAM. They have a new version which is more expensive, but thicker.

jmax

Tar paper - tar - and some other roofing products will do this. The Owens Corning product I mentioned is made of vinyl, not tar. Ramm mat is roofing material, aluminum flashing. The rubber adhesive is viscoelastic, and does not have considerable odor. Actually the odor fades within a day or two if you even notice it at first.

Mikesburn

Alexis, I'm the friend of Rick who is the desighner of RAAM matt. It's an exelent product, I'm using it in My Maxima, covered all the areas. It's not that heavy as Dyna Extreme, that's why it's considered beter and a lot cheaper. I'm the only one who can get it for cheap, so if you neeed deals on RAAM matt, I would get you the price noone would.
Let me guys know.

P.S. It doesn't smell in the car at all. If you put your nose close to the matt, it'l smell a litlle bit, just a bit coz it's fresh, but when it's applyed, it doesn't smell. I was affraid of smell when I saw it first time. But it doesn't smell at all.
See ya
Mikesburn@hotmail.com

Finality

Just thought I would pass this along I found a pretty interesting maxima site on sounddomain. I'm sure this is a .org members car.

Its a very informative/overkill guide for insulating/soundproofing your car.

http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pa...d=29987&page=1 He essentially ripped out the entire enterior sound proofed the entire car even the floor from road noice (something thats bugging me with my Max).

Dustyroads

The website you found is SweetSound2001's site. Unfortunately he is now longer a Maxima owner. He traded her in for an old school Lexus. I guess it was a car that he always wanted. He is still the man when it comes to sound deadening. I'm considering some of the things he did to quiet down my Maxima on the highway.

jmax

Sweetsound still posts occasionally. The car in the pics is now his Mom's.

Whitemax

I use Raammat in my car, and it has done wonders. Inexpensive, odorless, and sticks much better than Dynamat. If you only need small quanities, go to Lowes and get something called Peel and Seal. Its $15 for 12.5 sq. ft. and is pretty much the same as Raammat.

Mikesburn

Yea? What about 80 bucks for 50 SQARE FEET of RAAM matt???? I cell it in San Diego for this price. (for Raam matt).

P.S. The car got 5th place in IASCA PRO class, uses RAAM mat.

jmax

Calm down Mike. There have been many who would testify that they are the same product. Peel and Seal is 12.47 for 12.5 sq ft where I live. I have heard of people finding it in 50 and 100 sq ft rolls for about half that. And you don't have to pay shipping when you can pick it up at your local Lowes. Besides that, most people, myself excluded, are perfectly happy with 6-12 ft per door, and none anywhere else.

C-Dawg

That's funny that you charge $80 when you can actually contact Rick McCallum and get the Raam Matt for less. This is a quote from an e-mail reply he sent me a few days ago:

"There are alot of alternatives to Dynamat, most are just ok or not really that good, some are very good. My product is almost the same as Extreme but I sell it for $69 for a roll of 50 sq ft. Extreme is $250 for 37 sq ft, big difference! I have sold over 30,000 sq ft now, 100% satisfied customers. There is a $5 per roll discount if buying more than one roll at a time.
Thanks for your interest, any more questions please feel free to ask!
Rick"

Since he is the designer, he must know what he is talking about.

Hope this helps you make up your mind, swartzzz.

C.D.

Mikesburn

Well, I work with Rick already, so I can do it for less. The price 80 bucks was just to compare with Extreme, which how you said was 270(and you was right by the way). Happy day.
By the way we've tried watever they sell in Lowes, but these two completely dif products. the Lowes one doesn't stick that good.
So ramm is the leading one today

Whitemax

Actually I've used The Lowes stuff a few times for others cars and have had no probs with it sticking. In my cases it sticks just as well. And I got my Rolls of Raammat for $55 a roll. From Rick. Shame he sold his truck.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

While back I bought 3 rolls of Raammat for $180, shipped (that's 55 each + 5 each to ship)..
put 2 or 3 layers on the trunk floor and 3-4 layers on the rest of the trunk and inside and outside door skins. total weight added was about 40lb. I still have almost a full roll left. the car is now so quiet that I can hear myself breathe at 100mph on the highway.
before, I couldn't even turn up my stock radio (yes, still stock, but not for much longer) enough to hear it clearly above 100mph. big difference there.

Whitemax

Matt, your such an A**HOLE Moderator

spam

jmax

If you work with enough products you will be able to determine that the adhesives have a shelf life. A product that was produced in January, shipped in March, sat on the back of a self another two months, etc. may not seem to work as well. But the peel & seal seems to come right back to life with a quick shot with heat gun. I know this to be the case because I have used some the day I bought it, and other rolls have set on a shelf for several months. And we already know that both products were originally roofing materials, Dynamat, and ramm mat have been relabeled. Rick's a smart guy with enough storage space to order large quantities from a manufactuer.

C-Dawg

Oh yeah, just to clarify, I wasn't flaming on you. I'm not like that. Nothing but love here for my fellow Max owners.

C.D.

Mikesburn

Well, he's doing great job on Toyota Matrix. It'll be the first souped up Matrix in Ca. Hope to help him on this one.

Mikesburn

I didn't think of it at all. I just help Rick to distribute some matt, so the $ is the same.
He actually told me about you before, you have 94 Max, don't you? I wanted to ask some q's about sub locations in Max for short, not boomy bass.

Hope to hear back.
Thanx

MaDMaX024

the road noise i encounter thats most annoying is the wind against the drivers side door seam. do you know of any way i can get rid of this? its like the door isnt closed completely.

Mikesburn

What I did, I've put much matt on the inside of the door. Then I've covered the side of the door, where the actual look is, I've covered it with the special rubber matt. It's cheap, you can get it in Home Depot. It closes door more precisely, no air comes. I've got problem with the window when it's halfway open. It shakes a little, but I don't know any elimination, except for changing the rubber band (stock one). So you cover the sides of the door with the rubber carpet, helped me a lot!!!

retrodrive

Mike. What is this whistling sound coming from under your hood?

MaDMaX024

could you be a little more specific on where you put the special rubber mat and exactly what it is (description would be ok). i'm looking to get rid of this noise today if at all possible (wind noise).

Mikesburn

OK, let's try.

Whe you look at the door from inside, you see the front cover of inside part. You can't see sides of the ddor, coz it's closed
When you open the door, you see the side part of it. where the lock is, which actually looks the door. It's metal part, has the same color as youre car is. You need to cover the whole thing from the side, to underneath the door, then to the other side, where the struts hold your door.
Sounds confusing.

you cover these areas, so when the door is locked(closed) no air comes in and out between the door and the side of the car.
I've used the special thin carpet (it has many many small holes. Made from rubber). I've got it in the Keyston or UFO). If you need one, I can send it to you. Wouldn't be more then 15 bucks. It would be enough to cover it.

You don't have to do anything else, except for it, then cover the roof with the matt and the same rubber mat, it also helps to prevent air noise on the freeway.

MaDMaX024

sure, just include that in the shipped price for the original raammat. my zip is 02882 and my email is madmax024@aol.com

thanks

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

tear a sheet of paper in half lengthwise, then fold it into a strip about 1" wide. should be about 4 layers of paper now...

hold one end of it and place it at the top edge of the door frame, drooping into the car.. shut the door on it. try to pull it out. do this in several locations. if you can do this, then your door frame is warped a bit- due to slamming your hand in it, slamming the door, wreck, or just general use.
the fix is to stick your knee right about where the door lock lever is, and grab the top of the door frame and give it a few good jerks, to bend the top of the frame into the car some. do this for the front and back edges of the window frame.

should help quite a bit with wind noise. (saw that on a shadetree mechanic show a couple years ago and didn't believe them until I tried it myself. )

My SE used to whistle at 60mph and up.. at 140mph, it sounded like the door was about to fly off. Now it's silent all the way up to 130mph or so, and above that there's a slight bit of whistling, but not bad... all that'll take is a little more "adjustment" to fix, but it's a good speed indicator anyway.. when I hear it whistle, that means I'm at "cruising speed".

MaDMaX024

well, i just attemped what you said, my dad suggested tightening the hinge bolts beacuse my door drops like 2mm when opened...well, upon further inspection, the top hinge piece is slightly bent/warped and theres some play in its brackets..looks like i need to take that piece off and get a new one...can the door be supported by the bottom hinge only or should i rig some kind of jack?

C-Dawg

Yep, I have a 94. What would you like to know?

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

door hinges are common to wear out.. that can cause the noise too... forgot to mention that.
you MUST have someone or something support the door while changing the hinge(s). letting the door sit on one hinge without supporting the other end will severely damage the door and frame around the hinges. it'll cost big $$$ at a body shop to fix if you do that.

Mikesburn

I need short, strong, not boomy bass.
I've got Zapco amp and ID MAX sub

C-Dawg

What size sub? It's been my experience that smaller subs result in tight bass.

Mikesburn

I have 12" Image Dynamics, ID MAX, it's very tight, but I'm looking for the SHORT bass, wich wouldn't walk after beat.

jmax

It has been my experience that the sub box and the quality of the amp are far more important than the size of the sub. When an amp drives a low impedance it loses some control of the motion of the speaker. A 12 can hit very hard and very fast.

C-Dawg

Actually, I will agree with that. Box size does matter as well. It seems like bigger boxes tend to make the bass "echo" more.

jmax

I would think an echo to be caused by a panel vibration. From a poorly braced/contstructed enclosure. A sub in an infinite baffle has very fast, accurate bass. So the 'large' box is not the culprit. More likely the design of the box, and somewhat the design relative to the subs T. S. parameters.

Mikesburn

See, that's what I think, the good brand and much power is the key.
What is the infinite baffle??? Give me the definition, coz I want to put my sub facing into the car in the 1.5 cubic feet box, so there is no air leakege, no bass in the trunk, probably that's why it booms, because the half of the bass goes into the runk, damit.

Want to hear your oppinions on that!

jmax

Basically a really big box. That isolates the rear cone motion from the front. Like a car door for a small driver or the trunk in a rear deck install.

jmax

As far as the reverberation in the trunk it is fairly distinct. And somewhat of a 'time delay' effect from the soundwaves travelling through the seat cushions and other components of the trunk. The benefit is the increase in SPL. And I have never seen it discussed in any of the mags or books, but I believe there is a good amount of coupling with the vehicle when the bass reflects off the rear of the trunk. What I mean is that when that soundwave makes contact with the rear of the trunk, and bounces off, the low frequency energy instantly vibrates across the entire chassis. So we do have a net effect 'bass up front'. But there is a phase issue. Sound travels through air, and seat cushions, at a rate different than the rate it travels through steal.