components in 3rd gen
#1
components in 3rd gen
Just wondering if anyone has put components in the front doors of a 3rd gen w/o bose system. The speakers up front are 4x6's, but i was looking at it this morning and the housing that holds the speakers look like they can be cut to fit 5 1/4 components. I believe the housing is 6" long and 6" tall...lemme know if any of you guys have done this B4.
-blake
-blake
#2
Re: components in 3rd gen
Originally posted by pearl93max
Just wondering if anyone has put components in the front doors of a 3rd gen w/o bose system. The speakers up front are 4x6's, but i was looking at it this morning and the housing that holds the speakers look like they can be cut to fit 5 1/4 components. I believe the housing is 6" long and 6" tall...lemme know if any of you guys have done this B4.
-blake
Just wondering if anyone has put components in the front doors of a 3rd gen w/o bose system. The speakers up front are 4x6's, but i was looking at it this morning and the housing that holds the speakers look like they can be cut to fit 5 1/4 components. I believe the housing is 6" long and 6" tall...lemme know if any of you guys have done this B4.
-blake
#3
Re: Re: components in 3rd gen
Originally posted by Mikesburn
Pearl, i've used to have 1990 Max. It has 4" holes for 4" midranges only, but you can easily cut the MDW wood baffle for even 6.5" midbasses, which I did with my. Please, cover your door with some damping material. And the MDF baffles too.
Pearl, i've used to have 1990 Max. It has 4" holes for 4" midranges only, but you can easily cut the MDW wood baffle for even 6.5" midbasses, which I did with my. Please, cover your door with some damping material. And the MDF baffles too.
#4
Re: Re: Re: components in 3rd gen
Originally posted by time2reup
Yeah I actually just cut my first one with the Dremel last weekend...Still haven't gotten around to the second one yet. But you definitely can fit 5 1/4s in there ...Doesn't take much, they were plenty deep for my Kappa's..have to drill new holes as well...But not so difficult. I was more concerned with how I am going to get my wire through the door...I don't really want to break that seal but it seems the only route in....have you looked at that yet?
Yeah I actually just cut my first one with the Dremel last weekend...Still haven't gotten around to the second one yet. But you definitely can fit 5 1/4s in there ...Doesn't take much, they were plenty deep for my Kappa's..have to drill new holes as well...But not so difficult. I was more concerned with how I am going to get my wire through the door...I don't really want to break that seal but it seems the only route in....have you looked at that yet?
#5
Re: Re: Re: Re: components in 3rd gen
Originally posted by Mikesburn
if you open your door, then in between the car and the door you'll see wires already there, so you can attach your wire (probably 16 gauge you need for midbasses) to the others and then just wrap them with scotch. You'll have to get the wire through the rubber ring on the door outlet, which is not hard, use your fingers!
if you open your door, then in between the car and the door you'll see wires already there, so you can attach your wire (probably 16 gauge you need for midbasses) to the others and then just wrap them with scotch. You'll have to get the wire through the rubber ring on the door outlet, which is not hard, use your fingers!
#6
yeah...i looked into new 4x6 speakers last night, but wanted to see if the components would fit. I pulled the door off and i can cut it to fit 5 1/4 easiely...and i did look at how to wire it. It looks like just to run them with the window and door lock wires, but like mikesburns said it looks like a tight squeeze. I'll do it tom since i'm off and let yall know how it turns out. I'm gonna mount the tweets in the doors where it flares out just b4 the dash.
thanks
-blake
thanks
-blake
#7
Originally posted by pearl93max
yeah...i looked into new 4x6 speakers last night, but wanted to see if the components would fit. I pulled the door off and i can cut it to fit 5 1/4 easiely...and i did look at how to wire it. It looks like just to run them with the window and door lock wires, but like mikesburns said it looks like a tight squeeze. I'll do it tom since i'm off and let yall know how it turns out. I'm gonna mount the tweets in the doors where it flares out just b4 the dash.
thanks
-blake
yeah...i looked into new 4x6 speakers last night, but wanted to see if the components would fit. I pulled the door off and i can cut it to fit 5 1/4 easiely...and i did look at how to wire it. It looks like just to run them with the window and door lock wires, but like mikesburns said it looks like a tight squeeze. I'll do it tom since i'm off and let yall know how it turns out. I'm gonna mount the tweets in the doors where it flares out just b4 the dash.
thanks
-blake
What kind of tweeters do you use? If metal, harsh ones, PLS do not put it into the doors, where you cut the hole upstairs, it'll beat yuor ears., put them over the midbass, in the doors. If silk, that's fine, but put the tweet level on the lowest!!! (Just a good advise from personal experience).
#8
Not sure what kind of tweeters they are....it's Fosgate component set, mid and tweet, from Best Buy. Don't have alot of cash, so these will work for now. I'll listen to them in diff places B4 i do any perminant mounting. Thanks for the info B4 i start putting holes in things. I'm not sure if the croosover is adjustable or not...don't think so. They're kinda cheap, but sound good enough once on the amp.
-blake
-blake
#9
hah, glad you started this thread pearl I was about to ask the same question myself. I'm looking at Infinity components up front as the current Inf 4x6's just aren't cutting it. I have a '90 maxima and plan on cutting the plastic baffle as well. I'll have to look into getting a Dremel tool, with as much handy work I do I still don't have one yet.
I was thinking the tweeter would look nice up high on the black triangle piece sitting at the corner of the window next to the side mirror, but from what Mike says I guess closer to the woofer is the better listening position. Thanks for that info.
As for running wire to the speaker, I just used a pointed screwdriver and punched a small hole in the rubber grommet on the door with the wire loom. Didn't run it with the loom but visibely seperate through the new hole. The 16g wire never gets in the way or anything.
I was thinking the tweeter would look nice up high on the black triangle piece sitting at the corner of the window next to the side mirror, but from what Mike says I guess closer to the woofer is the better listening position. Thanks for that info.
As for running wire to the speaker, I just used a pointed screwdriver and punched a small hole in the rubber grommet on the door with the wire loom. Didn't run it with the loom but visibely seperate through the new hole. The 16g wire never gets in the way or anything.
#10
haha...great minds think alike.
I looked at diff mounting areas and you can't flush mount them in the triangle piece, not enought room behind it. I'll find somewhere to put them tom...got planes tonight. But i got the speakers in by just cutting the baffle alittle and the tweets are just hanging up to for now. The components sound sooooo much better than the tiny 4x6's.
I looked at diff mounting areas and you can't flush mount them in the triangle piece, not enought room behind it. I'll find somewhere to put them tom...got planes tonight. But i got the speakers in by just cutting the baffle alittle and the tweets are just hanging up to for now. The components sound sooooo much better than the tiny 4x6's.
#11
DAMN! I had a nice little post all typed up, hit the submit reply button and the server through a page at me saying it was busy, then my whole post was gone. Whaaaa!
Well here's a pic from the Infinity Eclipse show car:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/carau...s/eclipse3.jpg
Also read that you should have the tweeter close to the woofer to prevent "phase anamolies." I guess that answers my question of where it should go, now just have to mount it, want to have it aimed towards the center of the vehicle if possible. Flush mounting will be fun, show us pics if you can.
Well here's a pic from the Infinity Eclipse show car:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/carau...s/eclipse3.jpg
Also read that you should have the tweeter close to the woofer to prevent "phase anamolies." I guess that answers my question of where it should go, now just have to mount it, want to have it aimed towards the center of the vehicle if possible. Flush mounting will be fun, show us pics if you can.
#12
i hate that when you type a post and the server's busy...just hit back and it should still be there. I'll get pics of my whole system and make a homepage on cardomain as soon i as remember to get my film developed. I guess i should just go buy a digi camera...
Also read that you should have the tweeter close to the woofer to prevent "phase anamolies.".......what do you mean by that?
I'll play with the placement tomorrow.
-blake
Also read that you should have the tweeter close to the woofer to prevent "phase anamolies.".......what do you mean by that?
I'll play with the placement tomorrow.
-blake
#13
3rd gen comps
Many people here have put 6 1/2 comps in the front. I had the bose system and did not have to cut any metal to fit the drivers in. i used 1/4 plywood with a 3/4 mdf mounting ring. I was able to set the mounting ring at an angle to aim the driver up and in but still use the window all the way. I just filled the space with glass and bondo. It was alot of work but get great midbass with a decent mid image.
I built a pod at the triangle sail to mount the tweets. There are various pros and cons to mounting the tweeter high or low. You will get better image by putting it down near the tweeter, but you will get a higher soundstage by putting it up near the sail panel.
I ran the wires alongside the other wires and kinda cheeted them in. Good luck with the install. Check out Matt 93SE's website for cool pics and hints for an over the deep edge system.
Alan
I built a pod at the triangle sail to mount the tweets. There are various pros and cons to mounting the tweeter high or low. You will get better image by putting it down near the tweeter, but you will get a higher soundstage by putting it up near the sail panel.
I ran the wires alongside the other wires and kinda cheeted them in. Good luck with the install. Check out Matt 93SE's website for cool pics and hints for an over the deep edge system.
Alan
#14
DONE!!!!
Got some Fosgate 5 1/4 components, didn't have much cash, but they souns awsome. I had to cut the baffle just a little and flush mounted the tweets in the doors. Only took about 45 mins to finish. The highs are kinda loud, just have to play with the HU setting to get it right. I'll get pics up when i get film developed and make the webpage...laterz
-blake
-blake
#16
Re: 3rd gen comps
Originally posted by amax935
Many people here have put 6 1/2 comps in the front. I had the bose system and did not have to cut any metal to fit the drivers in. i used 1/4 plywood with a 3/4 mdf mounting ring. I was able to set the mounting ring at an angle to aim the driver up and in but still use the window all the way. I just filled the space with glass and bondo. It was alot of work but get great midbass with a decent mid image.
I built a pod at the triangle sail to mount the tweets. There are various pros and cons to mounting the tweeter high or low. You will get better image by putting it down near the tweeter, but you will get a higher soundstage by putting it up near the sail panel.
I ran the wires alongside the other wires and kinda cheeted them in. Good luck with the install. Check out Matt 93SE's website for cool pics and hints for an over the deep edge system.
Alan
Many people here have put 6 1/2 comps in the front. I had the bose system and did not have to cut any metal to fit the drivers in. i used 1/4 plywood with a 3/4 mdf mounting ring. I was able to set the mounting ring at an angle to aim the driver up and in but still use the window all the way. I just filled the space with glass and bondo. It was alot of work but get great midbass with a decent mid image.
I built a pod at the triangle sail to mount the tweets. There are various pros and cons to mounting the tweeter high or low. You will get better image by putting it down near the tweeter, but you will get a higher soundstage by putting it up near the sail panel.
I ran the wires alongside the other wires and kinda cheeted them in. Good luck with the install. Check out Matt 93SE's website for cool pics and hints for an over the deep edge system.
Alan
I respect your ansewr, but the tweeters and midranges gotta go into the kickpanels (custommade preferably), only then you'll get imaging, But I like your idea with MDF ring, that's what I 've been working on today!
#17
Re: Re: DONE!!!!
Originally posted by Shugarhi
i got 5 1/4" eclipse components... however the guy at tweeters told me he used to have a 3rd gen max and he told me he fit the 6 1/2" components in there
i got 5 1/4" eclipse components... however the guy at tweeters told me he used to have a 3rd gen max and he told me he fit the 6 1/2" components in there
Good luck!
#18
Re: Re: 3rd gen comps
Originally posted by Mikesburn
I respect your ansewr, but the tweeters and midranges gotta go into the kickpanels (custommade preferably), only then you'll get imaging, But I like your idea with MDF ring, that's what I 've been working on today!
I respect your ansewr, but the tweeters and midranges gotta go into the kickpanels (custommade preferably), only then you'll get imaging, But I like your idea with MDF ring, that's what I 've been working on today!
#19
Re: Re: Re: 3rd gen comps
Originally posted by amax935
if you got two ways, and you put the midbasses in the kicks you are never gonna get the madbass that you get from the door.
if you got two ways, and you put the midbasses in the kicks you are never gonna get the madbass that you get from the door.
#20
Re: Re: Re: 3rd gen comps
Originally posted by amax935
if you got two ways, and you put the midbasses in the kicks you are never gonna get the madbass that you get from the door.
if you got two ways, and you put the midbasses in the kicks you are never gonna get the madbass that you get from the door.
#21
Ok, I just canceled my order for the 5 1/4" components and went for the 6 1/2" due to the recommendations here. Amax I'm curious as to how you angled your MDF ring up. Did you cut it at an angle or use some other method.
Also, this will be my first install using any kind of custom-made mounting ring, does it matter what size MDF I use as long as the woofer doesn't hit the door panel? I'd rather use one big ring made of MDF rather than a plywood/MDF combo.
Here's a nice Maxima soundsystem with the mounting ring pics, looking good! The guy even used weather stripping it looks like to seal the woofer to the MDF, you guys recommend this?
Also, this will be my first install using any kind of custom-made mounting ring, does it matter what size MDF I use as long as the woofer doesn't hit the door panel? I'd rather use one big ring made of MDF rather than a plywood/MDF combo.
Here's a nice Maxima soundsystem with the mounting ring pics, looking good! The guy even used weather stripping it looks like to seal the woofer to the MDF, you guys recommend this?
#22
Originally posted by THX
Ok, I just canceled my order for the 5 1/4" components and went for the 6 1/2" due to the recommendations here. Amax I'm curious as to how you angled your MDF ring up. Did you cut it at an angle or use some other method.
Also, this will be my first install using any kind of custom-made mounting ring, does it matter what size MDF I use as long as the woofer doesn't hit the door panel? I'd rather use one big ring made of MDF rather than a plywood/MDF combo.
Here's a nice Maxima soundsystem with the mounting ring pics, looking good! The guy even used weather stripping it looks like to seal the woofer to the MDF, you guys recommend this?
Ok, I just canceled my order for the 5 1/4" components and went for the 6 1/2" due to the recommendations here. Amax I'm curious as to how you angled your MDF ring up. Did you cut it at an angle or use some other method.
Also, this will be my first install using any kind of custom-made mounting ring, does it matter what size MDF I use as long as the woofer doesn't hit the door panel? I'd rather use one big ring made of MDF rather than a plywood/MDF combo.
Here's a nice Maxima soundsystem with the mounting ring pics, looking good! The guy even used weather stripping it looks like to seal the woofer to the MDF, you guys recommend this?
Try cutting rings with dremel, it's easy. I have my rings in my hands right now. I've just cut them yesterday!
Make sure you put thick and strong cube of foam between your door and the interior panel, so it'll be tight! Just my experience!
#23
Finished it and have some pics up. Pretty painless now that I'm done and especially choosing surface-mount for the tweets. Hardest part was the damn baffles!
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/donald...car/index.html
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/donald...car/index.html
#24
Originally posted by THX
Finished it and have some pics up. Pretty painless now that I'm done and especially choosing surface-mount for the tweets. Hardest part was the damn baffles!
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/donald...car/index.html
Finished it and have some pics up. Pretty painless now that I'm done and especially choosing surface-mount for the tweets. Hardest part was the damn baffles!
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/donald...car/index.html
looks good, but I would put your infinity crossovers under the seats, not in the doors.
Mike A.
#25
Mike, why under the seat? That creates a heck of a distance between the crossover and the speakers and seems like too much work for what its worth. I've found in most cars there is an area in the door panel that a crossover can fit.... unless you have a huge crossover like Diamond's or a musicomp from Quart.
#26
Originally posted by LikwidVT
Mike, why under the seat? That creates a heck of a distance between the crossover and the speakers and seems like too much work for what its worth. I've found in most cars there is an area in the door panel that a crossover can fit.... unless you have a huge crossover like Diamond's or a musicomp from Quart.
Mike, why under the seat? That creates a heck of a distance between the crossover and the speakers and seems like too much work for what its worth. I've found in most cars there is an area in the door panel that a crossover can fit.... unless you have a huge crossover like Diamond's or a musicomp from Quart.
About the time spent - took me around 2 hours - quite a lot!! That's truth!
#29
Who me? Sounds better than the 4x6's but the tweeters are a bit on the harsh side. Some songs which sounded smooth can just scream in your ears on some parts. I'm using the -3dB wiring option on the xover but it's still there. I guess I have to let them break in.
#30
Originally posted by THX
Who me? Sounds better than the 4x6's but the tweeters are a bit on the harsh side. Some songs which sounded smooth can just scream in your ears on some parts. I'm using the -3dB wiring option on the xover but it's still there. I guess I have to let them break in.
Who me? Sounds better than the 4x6's but the tweeters are a bit on the harsh side. Some songs which sounded smooth can just scream in your ears on some parts. I'm using the -3dB wiring option on the xover but it's still there. I guess I have to let them break in.
Hope you like it!
#31
Originally posted by THX
Who me? Sounds better than the 4x6's but the tweeters are a bit on the harsh side. Some songs which sounded smooth can just scream in your ears on some parts. I'm using the -3dB wiring option on the xover but it's still there. I guess I have to let them break in.
Who me? Sounds better than the 4x6's but the tweeters are a bit on the harsh side. Some songs which sounded smooth can just scream in your ears on some parts. I'm using the -3dB wiring option on the xover but it's still there. I guess I have to let them break in.
What do you have the treble on your deck set too? A friend of mine just put in his Kappas last week and they were a little too harsh, we discovered his treble was a +2. Moving it back flat made them sound really good.
#32
I read through this entire thread, and I have a couple of comments:
1- They guy that cancelled the order on the 5-1/4 for the 6.5 just wasted some $$. I have the midline Fosgate 6.5. Best Buy sells only the "P" system. In my opinion the tweeter in the "p" is smoother and not as harsh, though it lacks the resolution. The Mid in the "X" is far superior in the vocals, and lower end. I have mine running full range through a Punch 200x2 (older series 1995 built) w/o subs. Soon, I'll be runnig them at ~80Hz and above, they seem to loose control at higher volume. Now as for the wasted $$, the difference in bass in the 5.25 and 6.5 is negligible, and you have my take on runnig it full range anyway.
2- Another guy said something about aiming the mids. I'd like more info on that one. Reasoning, etc.
3- Those that had questions about wiring through the door, take the time to do the job right. Do not use your factory wiring. It's fragile and cannot take much power.
4- My X-over for my Fanatic X is in my trunk. Reasoning: IF I decide to bi-amp my system, the wiring is already there, and besides, who wants to hide such a pretty crossover unit. Several folks in the 3rd gen world have put their x-overs in thier doors. Be sure to insulate from weather, that's all I can say about that.
And in the words of Forrest Gump, "That's all I have to say about that."
1- They guy that cancelled the order on the 5-1/4 for the 6.5 just wasted some $$. I have the midline Fosgate 6.5. Best Buy sells only the "P" system. In my opinion the tweeter in the "p" is smoother and not as harsh, though it lacks the resolution. The Mid in the "X" is far superior in the vocals, and lower end. I have mine running full range through a Punch 200x2 (older series 1995 built) w/o subs. Soon, I'll be runnig them at ~80Hz and above, they seem to loose control at higher volume. Now as for the wasted $$, the difference in bass in the 5.25 and 6.5 is negligible, and you have my take on runnig it full range anyway.
2- Another guy said something about aiming the mids. I'd like more info on that one. Reasoning, etc.
3- Those that had questions about wiring through the door, take the time to do the job right. Do not use your factory wiring. It's fragile and cannot take much power.
4- My X-over for my Fanatic X is in my trunk. Reasoning: IF I decide to bi-amp my system, the wiring is already there, and besides, who wants to hide such a pretty crossover unit. Several folks in the 3rd gen world have put their x-overs in thier doors. Be sure to insulate from weather, that's all I can say about that.
And in the words of Forrest Gump, "That's all I have to say about that."
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