92SE w/ Bose Speakers/Amps and aftermarket Blaupunkt Miami Beach CD148 head unit. I dont think it has any apapters. There is some sort of plug that goes between the HU and the nissan plugs. I think it is just because the nissan plugs don't fit the HU. (I recently purchased this car so I don't know too much about the setup).

I finally figured out why I'm not getting any sound out of the back right speaker, its because the amp was unplugged. And do you know why the amp was unplugged? Because the original owner knew before they sold it to me that if you plug it in the only noise you get from all the speakers is a super loud BZZZZZZZZ! from the moment you turn the radio on. When that amp is not plugged in, the other 3 speakers work fine. Does that sound mean there is a blown amp or a blown speaker? If the fuse was being blown I wouldn't hear anything at all right? So since the fuse is not blowing (I think) that means its not a short right?

Any ideas on where the problem lies and how to fix it?

Thanks

 

Are the other amps pluged in?

 

Yeah, the other amps work fine until the right rear amp gets plugged in.

 

Your in luck becuase the rear amps are easier to get to than the front.

Remove the suspect amp. This involves 4 screws to get the cover off and 2 screws to get the amp itself out of the enclosure. Depending on your model year you either remove the entire cable assembly or unplug the cable from the amp itself.

Now move the amp to the other side and see if the buzzing moves with the amp. It probably will. This whole process should take less than 30 minutes.

If the amp is the culprit and you can use a soldering iron, replace all the capacitors on the board. Some of the capacitors will be covered in a soft epoxy. I was able to peel this off with a set of needle nose pliars. You can look at each of the caps to get the values for each one. The values I used were 1000 micro Farad, 47 micro Farad, 10 micro Farad, 4.7 micro Farad and 1 micro Farad.

I actualy screwed up and used orderd .47 mF caps instead of 4.7 so I ended up using the 10 mF caps. That amp is not quite as loud as the one on the other side, so I would recomend using the correct caps.

This is also the fix for the squeal and or pop that some Bose amps get.

If you are not handy with a soldering iron you can send the amp off to a repair shop for $90 - $110. My total cost was $18 for enough parts to repair 4 amps.


mike

 

Thanks Mike,

Thats great news. I was just wondering where did you order your Capacitors from? An online store or someplace local? Also, how many Watts is your soldering iron? I think the one I used the last time I was soldering was too hot (40W I think). Oh yeah, do you remember how long it took you to actually replace all the capacitors? And did you use some sort of desolderer to suck up the solder from the old capacitors?

(I'm not so experienced with soldering but definately willing to try. Just gotta go out and by some supplies [new iron, solder, capacitors,...])

Thanks a lot for the info.
-Ezra

 

As far as the capacitors are concerned. I see the two big brown ones, they are each 820 uF (C19, C25). I assume these are the ones you used 1000 uF for. Then there are 2 medium sized green ones (C7,C8)- I cant see what they are right now cuz of the epoxy. Next to those are 4 small green ones in a line (C183,C172,C203,C???). They are 10 uF, 10uF, 1 uF, and i think 10 uF. Then besides these normal looking capicitors, there are 9 white box shaped capacitors with values like .33J, .27J, .22J, .47J. Are these capacitors to be replaced as well? (I assume these are the capacitor impedance values but doesn't impedance depend on the frequency of the signal?). Then there are 7 yellow plastic covered capacitors that also have weird J values (122JZ, 823J 1HA (N), 683J 1HY (N), 223J 50X (N), etc.) I don't really have a clue what these components are. Do I only replace the green ones and the 2 big brown ones? (AKA the normal ones with Farad values) or do I have to mess with all these weird ones? I think the weird ones are capacitors as well because they are marked with C### on the board.

I know this is pretty technical however I could definately use some guidance here. Does anyone know if there is a technical writeup with an explanation of which capacitors should be replaced?

Thanks so much.

 

I tried searching earlier but I finaly found a post with some related info:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....threadid=50398

Heres the relavent part:
Posted by AC439
I guess this answers my question about which capacitors unless you had a different experience Mike?

Thanks for the help.
-Ezra

 

Ok, I actually found some very detailed information here http://www.zr1.net/Bose2.pdf thanks to google. Lots of diagrams and very descriptive. Highly recommended to anyone else who has Bose Amp issues.

I'm just trying to figure out where I will order my capacitors from and which soldering station to buy. Sounds like most people consider radio shack to be crap.

-Ezra

 

Sorry it took so long for me to get back to you. It sounds like you have all the info you need. A 40 watt soldering iron should be fine. Just make sure you have a decent tip on it. I used a cheap solder sucker. I would have used solder wick if i had some at home.

I did use 1000mF cap in place of the 840mf. I orderd all my caps from digikey. Try to get the capacitance and voltage as close to the current values as possible. The capacitance is more important than the voltage as long as the replacement caps voltage is higher than the current cap. Only replace the electrolitic caps. These are the ones that look like little cans. The catalog pages on digikeys site lists specs on the dimensions of the caps. Make sure you get caps that will fit under the cover of the amp. Most of the small ones that I ordered were larger than the caps I was replacing but I was able to get them all installed on the board.

If you have any more questions, feel free to email me.

mike

 

Ezra, at the beginning of this thread you said you have an after market HU in your Max with a Bose system?

I just wanted to ask you how did you connect your aftermarke to the Bose speakers. I just bought an Aiwa Cd reciever and two harnesses (one to connect the Nissan output plugs and one for the antenna connection). The antenna harness works fine I'm sure.

My problem is that my new deck turns on and it seems to be working, but no sound to my speakers...

Any help from you or anyone would be excellent!!!

PLEASE...... thanks

 

You need a converter. It will cost you about $50

 

I actually didn't do the install on my car as I bought it used with the HU already installed however I looked the whole thing over and there is no converter between my headunit and my amps/speakers. All this is a pretty basic wire adapter that takes the output wires from the HU and bridges them with the inputs of the amps. I don't know to much about car audio ling obut it sounds like people are calling it a wiring harness. Word of caution: The fact that I do not have an adapter may be the reason that my Right front speaker pops loudly when the radio first turns on. After I fix my amp (hopefully) I will let the forum know if it was the capacitors or something else. If its the capacitors it doesn't have anything to do with the fact that I dont have an adapter....
Other than the pop and the broken adapter ( ) my HU/speakers are working fine without the adapter though.

-Ezra

 

Where can i find this "converter"? I looked on Crutchfield and they showed me some box looking thing that has wires coming out of it... I'm not sure how it will make the speakers work, thats why I don't want to buy it yet. It looks like it justs connects the speaker wires from the Maxima output plug (factory speaker wires) to the new deck. Would you know how this thing works, it would be a lot of help for me...

Thanks