I am trying to install a Viper 800 ESP in a 2002 Max SE 6 Speed. I have run into a few problems, and need help.

1) I cannot get the door lock/unlock to work. I have the alarm set to do a double pulse, but still it doesn't work. I am currently tapping the lock/unlock motor wires connected to the SECU. Is there a correct wire in the cabin that I can tap to lock/unlock the car, or do I have to wire it to the back of the power lock switch in the driver's door. The reason I am asking is because Nissan didn't make a way for us to use the factory wiring harness to run additional wires into the door, so if I have to use the door switch, I'll have to drill a hole, and I REALLY don't want to do that.

2) How did you get the factory alarm to disarm? The DEI sheet said to use the Green/Yellow wire (#56) at the ECU, but that didn't work. The factory alarm still goes off when I pop the trunk.

Please help. Autotoys.com says that they have the correct procedure to do it, and I agree with them that the DEI sheet is WRONG!!!! I repeat, it is WRONG!!!! If it was right, I wouldn't be asking these questions. However, in order to gain access to their forum, you have to be a customer. If someone is an autotoys.com customer and can help me by logging into the forum and telling me what I need, please email/PM/IM me ASAP. The alarm is already installed, and I am having to use 2 remotes right now. I am planning on making this a HOW-2, but I need it to work properly before I write it all up.

Thanks in advance.

 

I think your using the wrong wires for the door locks. I think your suppose to tap in to power lock unlock wires (pin 23 and pin 35 at SECU) according to the ECM provided by Chinaonitrous1. You should never directly connect to the motors unless you use a relay.

Try testing the power lock and unlock wires, using a digital meter to see how the pulse actions are occuring. You should not have to run wires.

2nd, For the disarm defeat wire, it is a single pulse to disarm, but i am not sure.

Right now i am contemplating on whether i should install my compustarr 2000as alarm in, because i don't wanna pay for hte install and plus i dont trust anybody with my car yet.

But right now, i need to ask you, how did you wire up the pin switch for the door trigger, when there are 3 wires for the door switch (pin 29, 28 and 40 for front left/right and rear doors. Did you use diodes??

And do you have a remote starter?? are you using a DEI 555U transponder??

ED

 

im gonna do my full alarm next week...Sidewinder 1500esp remote start and the works...smart windows too hopefully...bypass module...smart windows on the sun roof....trunk pop...extra channel for the neon.. I'll be sure to do full write ups with pics...if someone will host the pics and info

 

I can probably host it for you, at my ROGERS@HOME site which holds 10megs...

Please keep me informed, becuase i would love ot install my compustar because its sitting in my box.

Just out of curiousity, the dome lights, does it affect the way the car operates?? I mean when you get in, they stay on until the key is turned and then it shuts off. Also i like the way the domelights work with the car, it gradually fades in when opening the door, i don't want to lose that feature.

Are you using the DEI 555u?? Tell me how you do everything, keep a journal, pics, everything, because i will follow you step by step on the install..

Thanks CHINAONNITROUS1, you da man!!

ED

 

The info you are posting (pins 23 and 35) can't be for a 2002 Max. Pin 23 on a 2002 connects to the headlamp switch (Blue with Yellow Stripe), and is for detecting if the headlamp switch is in the Auto position or not.

Ping 35 is undocumented.

All I'm saying is that the SECU wiring diagram that was posted may be wrong. I have the ESM directly from Nissan. I have only found 1 error in it so far, and have submitted that error to them for correction. (It was a Green with Yellow Stripe wire (pin 56) and the SECU chart says it's GY (gray) - they left out a slash (/))

I am using the wire that DEI said would do it, but it's not working :-( I will check the pulse, but I believe it's set to single pulse.

In response for the door pins, they are not pins 29, 28, and 40. They are pins 1, 2, and 3. And yes, I used 3 diodes. I tapped the factory circuit with a wire, then inserted the diode into the wire with the stripe towards the SECU (away from aftermarket alarm). Then I secured the diodes by laying a wire tie right next to the diode, and the points where I soldered the diode to the line. Then I put all of that in heat-shrink tubing. I then took all 3 wires, and used 3m taps to connect them to the (-) door trigger wire, and set it for instant (instead of progressive) trigger.

Remoter starter, I don't have, but the DEI 555U IS what you need to bypass the NVIS. You'll need a spare key to do this with, so either use your valet key, or get another blank, cut it, program it, and use it in the DEI 555U.

If you have a 2002 Maxima, then read... but if yours isn't, this information isn't valid.

The DEI sheet is wrong on certain things. I know this because the starter's constant power wire isn't green. As a matter of fact, there isn't even a green wire on the starter's harnesses. This made the install a little more difficult, as I researched every wire vs. the ESM before using it.

NOTE: These instructions are for a 2002 Maxima. Any other model year, I cannot verify, and this information may be incorrect. Also, I am not responsible for any damage done to your car. Test all wires first before making a connection.

 

Ok, I have new information. A local installer here in town confirmed that you MUST run a wire into the door. They said that you can drill a hole near the factory grommet, if you have a 90 degree drill bit. Then you can run the wire into the rubber grommet on the driver's door, and wire it up from there. You need at least 2 wires to lock and unlock the doors. This will also disarm the factory alarm. However, if you are choosing to roll up and down the driver's window using a remote module, run an extra wire. I found a electronics surplus store here that sells (4) 18 guage wires in a single sheething. The local installer was kind enough to give me a flexible tube (to use as weather proofing) as well as the grommet and grommet sealer. The DEI sheet is in fact wrong, and I will post the correct wiring diagrams/layouts when I have completed my car (full write-up coming soon). If you need help in the meantime, just know that the DEI sheet's info about the ignition is wrong. Here are the corrected wire colors:

Wire, Color, Location, Polarity
+12V, Blue, Ignition Switch Harness, +
Ignition, Black/Yellow, Ignition Switch Harness, +
Accessory, Red, Ignition Switch Harness, +
Starter 1, Black/Red, Ignition Switch Harness, +
Starter 2, Black/White, Ignition Switch Harness, +
Brake Switch, Red/Green, Above Brake Pedal, +

 

Hey, this does not make any sense, why do you need to run a wire into the door for??? first of all, both the drivers and passengers doors have power door lock switches, meaning that those wires must be interconnected somewhere.

And if you follow the door lock swtichs it should lead in to the kick panel on the drivers side, but this is just my thought on the issue.

I have never heard of any car requiring a direct conneciton such as drilling the door unless you require a door lock acutator.

ED

 

You are correct, they do meet somewhere. That somewhere is in the driver's door (and the passenger's door as well). They connect to a CPU, which connects 1 wire per door back to the SECU. That wire varies in voltage from +12v to +9v and pulses at different rates to lock/unlock/key lock/key unlock. The reasons you have to tap the driver's door is because:

1) There is no factory disarm wire at the SECU. Despite what the DEI sheet says, there isn't. The DEI sheet says to use wire 56 at the SECU, which connects to the 2nd MOTOR unlock wire (the one for the passenger and rear doors). If you look up just 2 items on the DEI sheet, you'll see that the unlock/lock wires have to be run in the driver's door as well. See #2 for more explaination.

2) This allows you to keep the progressive unlocking. The wires that you tap in the driver's door are actually the keyhole wires, before they meet the CPU. This emulates a key being turned in the door (which disarms the factory alarm) and unlocks the driver's door. If you hook up your 2nd unlock wire (from the aftermarket alarm) to the main unlock wire (from the aftermarket alarm) - (NOTE: you can do this at the alarm's brain, and avoid running 3 wires into the door), then you can have the 2nd unlock wire send out another pulse which will emulate the key turning twice in the door, which would unlock all the doors.

3) Aftermarket alarms don't have the capability (native capablity) to generate the same signal pulses that the CPU in the door generates (random timings (2-9 per second) and random voltages (+9v to +12v) based upon function). This means that you have to tap the signals going into the CPU, and that signal is only available in the driver's door. It would be available in the passenger's door, but there is no keyhole there, so it's kinda useless.

 

INteresting, thus there is a separate control module within the door which manipulates the signal prior to meeting inside the cabin of the car in to the SECU. Man what drugs is nissan smoking to make it this difficult.

Yes my compustar 2000as has progressive locking feature which i never used in my old car, but now i guess it will come in handy because the wires are already ther!!

Hey studman, just out of curioustiy, are you able to use the keyhole wires to tap in to the roll down roll up switch for the power windows??

The car already has roll down and rollup for the front two windows (99 maximas like my mom was only roll down by remote)..

This would e sweet to incorporate as it allows for better factory integration.

Next question, are you using the factory LED by the clock on your car? Is it possible to repalce this with a hyper blue LED and use that to your aftermarket alarm?? or willl it be necessary to have the facotry LED in place.

Man STUDMAN, talking to you makesme very scared in doing this install!! What the hell kind of door lock signal uses 9 to 12 volt variance and pulsing at the same time!!!! That is totally retarded.

First the complicated BOSE audio, and now this.

ED

 

Money. It's cheaper to run 1 wire into the car than 2. It's also more $$$ in Nissan's pocket if your door gets smacked, as the PC will probably break upon impact.

Yes. The factory remotes already have progressive unlocking. But now your alarm will have it too... I am still waiting to connect the door lock/unlock feature. My current plan is to do this on thursday.

You don't use the keyhole wires themselves, but you do use the window switch wires in the driver's door. You'll need an additional 2 wires to control the driver's door window. All the other window up/down wires are available in the cabin. It's only the driver's that isn't. So, yes, it is possible. I bought a 4 wire 18 guage cable to run into the driver's door, so I can add the window capability on later (when I get the $140 to buy the parts (2 Window Modules @ $70/each) I need to make it work).

I have seen posts here on the .org where other people have removed their security bulb and replaced it, but I didn't do it myself. The LED itself is removable, but note that it also has a function besides security. It is controlled by the SECU, but also indicates problems with the alarm and door pins. Somewhere around here I have the actual events that trigger it. But for the most part, you can change/disable it. I mounted my aftermarket alarm right next to the dimmer switch in my car, because I don't have (nor want) TCS. So there was a blank panel there, and I used it for the aftermarket LED.

Don't be, just take your time, read your install manual over and over again, and ASK QUESTIONS!!!! If in doubt, wait until my install is done, and I'll give a complete writeup with wire colors, etc.

Nissan

Agreed.

 

I have installed 3 alarms in the past with total confidence but this maxima scares me..

I thnk i am going to wait a bit to see how it goes for you because i feel very erry about drillin my brand new doors.

ED

 

Ok. Alarm installation is done. Works great. There is only 1 issue with using it, and even my local DEI Authorized dealer said that it couldn't be avoided. (See #4)

Pictures of the installation will be uploaded soon, but for now, here are answers to some FAQs:

1) Door locks - Progressive door unlocking will not work. The unlock procedure requires 2 unlock pulses, at which point it will unlock all doors. I tried having it send 1 unlock pulse, but the doors didn't unlock at all.

2) Door lock wiring - You MUST drill a hole and run a wire into the driver's door. There is no way around this, as any other method will NOT deactivate the factory alarm. Fear not, it's not NEARLY as bad as it sounds. I have included instructions on how to do this on my web-site. You do not need any special tools, just a 3/8" drill bit and a small flat bladed screwdriver.

3) Power window modules - This requires running about 16 wires into the driver's door. 8 of them are around 18-22 guage, and the other 8 are 14-16 guage. Because of the size, you have 2 options. The first option is to make the grommet that the door lock uses bigger (1/2"-3/4") and run all the wires through it. The second option is to use another 3/8" grommet and run it into the door just like the door locks were done. This is the easier of the 2.

4) Trunk release - You need a high current relay to do so, and have it provide a negative output. The only problem with the trunk release is that you must disarm the system first. This takes about 2 seconds to disarm the factory alarm (by unlocking the doors), then the trunk release works properly. If you don't disarm the alarm first, then the trunk will still pop, and the factory alarm will go off. Even if your alarm has the "disarm when trunk release is activated", it won't be smart enough to disarm, wait 2 secs, then pop trunk. So the factory alarm sees that the trunk was opened while it was armed.

5) Siren - This is a tough one. Nissan didn't give us much room to install it in the engine bay. However, DEI has a small siren that is included with their upper-line products that will fit nicely. Pictures coming soon to my web-site.

6) Brain - Chances are good that you'll install it under the dash. If I were you, I'd try to relocate it. I tried, but ended up moving it closer to the SECU than I wanted, because of all the wiring issues.

7) Starter - DEI's info is wrong about the starter colors for a 2002. Once you have the correct colors, it's just like installing any other alarm. However, be careful, as the wire for the starter doesn't have much clearance from the plastic steering wheel cover. I'd advise that you tap the wire a little further down the harness (by the keyhole on the steering wheel). Unplug the starter harness and follow it down, you'll see what I mean.

8) Dome Supervision - You can hook it up, but I chose not too. I can provide the wire to power if you want to do this.

9) Parking Lights - See DEI's sheet, the information is correct about this part. I like it alot better than hooking it up to my hazard lights (which is what the factory alarm uses).

10) Memory Seats - It can be done, but requires a relay. I have not yet put this in, but plan to do so when my window modules arrive (as I'll have to take the door apart anyway. This assumes that you already have the memory seats installed in your car. The relay is required to energize the motor controller on the driver's side, as it is off unless the ignition is in on/start position.

11) Shock sensor - Install on the steering column. Zip ties work well for holding it there, but get it tight. Use your hands to get it tight, then use a pair of needle-nose pliers to get it even tighter. Be sure to adjust it.

12) LED Mounting - Your choice, although I instantly see 2 places. The first is next to the dimmer switch. If you have TCS, you can't put it there. The 2nd is on the center console. If you have heated seats, you can't put it there. Either of those 2 places have little plastic inserts that you can easily put a LED in. It's also nice because if you ever sell the car, you can remove the system without leaving any permanent holes. Just go down to Nissan, pay less than $5 and install a new blank insert.

13) Programming button/valet button/etc - This is a switch that most people hide. You should hide it too, unless you use some form of carjacking feature on your car. Places NOT to hide it are: behind the hood release, in the glove box, underneath the dash, etc. These are very common places to hide it. Try other places such as: the center console armrest, the power socket in the center console (in the rear seat, etc. Someplace that is still obvious, but not as common.

Hope this helps.

 

MY GOD..

After hearing your write up, i am now thinking about selling my compustar unit..

I think i rather have factory with a shock sensor installed...

I will miss having a remote starter, but i have no choice now!!


I can't live with that type of problems no matter how minor it may seem..

ED

 

just wondering.. why, if the door locks are neg. triggered, would it matter what voltage they are?

 

The door locks are kinda funny. The keyhole in the driver's door has 3 wires. 2 are +5v, and the other is ground. When you ground one of the +5v, that indicates that there is a key in the door, and the signal travels to a CPU that is mounted in the door. This CPU translates the voltage into a a pulsated voltage. This voltage pulses between +9v and +12v. The CPU voltage never gets below +9v, so grounding the signal there won't work. There is only 1 wire leaving the CPU that has this signal. So according to multiple sources, you have to tap the wires before the CPU. When you tap the keyhole wires (just before the CPU), everything functions properly. I tried tapping the single wire for the CPU in the cabin, and all I got was blown fuses, and non-working door locks.