Some of my favorites:

Wash: Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo (very soapy, smells great), washmitt, cotton rags for the very bottom of the car

Dry: California water blade (WONDERFUL), absorber

Mists and Quick Detailers: Meguiar's Quik Detailer, Meguiar's Final Inspection (also use Final Insp. as a final coat after waxing is done), cotton and microfiber towels, California duster

Tough Spots: (will eventually try for engine cleaning) Meguiar's Extra

Windows: Exterior - gotta tell you I have the most luck w/ plain water, Interior - Glass Plus or microfiber towel

Plastic (lights, plastic in dash, etc.): Meguiar's Clear Plastic Detailer

Tires: Meguiar's Instant Wheel Cleaner, Meguiar's High Endurance Gloss Protectant

Vinyl (rubber seals, nose mask, tires - sometimes): 303 Aerospace Protectant

Vinyl (interior): Meguiar's Vinyl Protectant

Leather: I used to use Eagle One conditioner - very good, I've recently used Meguiar's Leather Cleaner & Cond. - pretty thick, but great, I currently use (and prefer) Lexol Cleaner & Conditioner, I have the best luck w/ conditioners when I apply by hand (except for Lexol because it is too runny)

Cleaner: Meguiar's Scratch X, Meguiar's Crystal System Cleaner

Polish: Meguiar's Crystal System Polish

Wax: One Grand Blitz Wax (best I've ever used), Zymol (smells good/ easy to apply & remove), Meguiar's Gold Class


Best Inventions Ever:
I am a huge fan of the water blade and microfiber towels. I also have a pledge duster (static towel) in my car at all times for quick dust removal.

Things I would like to try (COMMENTS APPRECIATED):
*Klasse All-In-One and Glaze
*3M Imperial Hand Glaze
*P21S Wax and Cleaner
*Koala Towel
***I need to find very small detailing brushes!!!!

 

"Final rinse is with a nozzleless hose which sheets the water off the car and prevents water spots."

That can't be true?!?!?!?! Does it really work? I have a black Max - the worst for water spots.

luvmymax

 

I do the exact same thing. Have you had any problems doing this - scratches, swirls? I try to use the duster as lightly as I can. When all the dust is gone, I use Quik Detailer. I work in an area that is really going through massive construciton. I also have a black max. Every stinking day I come out - and there it is - my car is covered again! I get sooo aggravated, but I hate to leave all that dust on there.

luvmymax

 

Do you really like Klasse products? I have watned to try them, but they are referred to as "acrylics." I was unsure if I should try to put this on or not. Sometimes I get so confused with all of these terms - polymers, silicones, natural, carnuba, sealant, etc. - its hard to keep them all straight.

Also, besides the 2-bucket method, I use one bucket with my soapy water. I use a mitt and cotton rags (for the very bottom so I don't get my mitt full of grease and tar). When I've soaped an area - I use the hose to completely rinse out my mitt or rag. Then I ring it out before putting it back into my bucket. I think this actually might work better than 2 buckets because once you put a dirty and gritty rag into your rinse water bucket, the dirt just lies there. Next time around, you might pick some of it right back up before you head to your soap bucket again. At least a complete rinse will get rid of the dirt.

Just don't rinse the rag OVER the soap bucket.

luvmymax

 

Don't blame you for getting confused. I decided to try Klasse since I was primarily looking for durability and several Max owners recommended it. I was impressed with the All-in-One... It's easy to apply and remove. No white dust or residue. It removed the swirls and haze left by what looked like a orbital buffer in the careless hands of a dealer employee. It can be applied pretty much on every surface in your car exterior.
The Sealant Glaze was harder to remove but as easy as the All-in-One to apply. Maybe I should have waited for it to be completely dry, (like leave it overnight, as recommended) but I didn't. I just couldn't wait.
Still, results were great.

You can find some info here:

http://www.properautocare.com/klasapguid.html

 

here is an easy fix to cleaning your floormats: go to walmart/target and get a set of clear floormats,front/rear, and put them over your carpet ones. they don't look bad and they keep you carpets clean!!!

 

Some of my favorites:

Wash: Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo, 2 wash mitts, tire brush

Dry: California water blade, Chamois to get the excess water

Windows: Alcohol-20/20 mixture, Stoners, Chicago Tribune, and a Microfiber towel

Plastic Plexus (soon to be acquired)

Tires: Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity

Vinyl: Vinylex

Leather: Lexol

Cleaner: Klasse All In One

Wax: One Grand Blitz Wax (Soon to be acquired)

Other items: Chrome/Aluminum Polish, Eimann fabrik Tar Remover, Turtle Wax Bug Remover sponge (Used to clean wheels), 3M Swirl Mark Remover, 3M Perfect-It Rubbing Compound, Shop-Vac.

Interior: Eimann Fabrik Carpet and Upholstery Shampoo, Eimann Fabrik Spot Remover, Diluted Eimann Fabrik Hi-Intensity


Future purchases:

Porter Cable 7424 Orbital Polisher
Pinnacle Poly Clay
Steam Cleaner for carpet, headliner, and upholstery

 

here was my solution to keeping my floor mats looking good...I talked the dealer into giving me an extra set, since my car was a demo I asked for a spanking new set. Dont forget to Scotch Guard those mats ASAP> It has saved my mats already. Anytime i am rolling out and want the car to look its best, just swap out the mats. But come winter time it probably would be best to put a clear mat down.

Anyone have any experience with using Armor all Leather wipes? I used them not only on the seats but on the whole interior and looks great. I know i need to get some real cleaner and conditioner for the future if i want to have those seats hold up over time.

 

No one on here has used the products I have. Thats a suprise, I guess. I have fallen in love with the looks I attain using the Pinnacle products. I hate waxing my car, but using thier Souveran wax on my black car is so easy to apply and the results never fail to amaze me. Its like repainting my car every time I wax it. Thier dash protectant is better than even Meguiars, and ive used Meguiars in the past. Also, the Eihman Fabrik tire spray literally bods to the tire and keeps it shiny for WEEKS. It even stands up to rain and the water just beads up on the tires. You guys talk about the Turtle Wax stuff....thats nothing compared to this stuff (and it smells good too, lol). Anyway, try it, if you want to of course, but i promise once youve tried it youll love it as much as i do.

You can find these products at prpoerautocare.com

 

every week...no matter the weather....Z7 car wash or Meguiars Gld Class depnding on how much Z7 i have left($)....EF Hi for the wheels then 303 for dressing or meguiars endueance Hi Glossif im feeling frisky....neverdull for the chrome wheels and then Z2 so i dont have do anything for them for a few mths except wash....then finish up with Z5/Z2(Z5 with a terry applicator and Z2 with a the large viking foam...love that handle)..i use the 2 bucket method with viking chenille mitts(after my sheepsking got old) 1 for the top and i for the lower parts....dry with waterbandit and an absorber for the trim/car jams etc....CWB on the windows.....then follow up with the little thats left with an MF(neatitems)...inside....303 everywhere(love the matte finish)with anMF..leather seats gets soap/water with an MF for cleaning and pinnacle conditioner afterwards(love the smell)using a foam applicators(also pinnacle)...(303)fabric gaurded all the carpeting and matts(i have weathertech rubber matts over the factory carpet ones anyway)...ISA with an Mf to all the inside windows followed up with a flannel towel to polish it)...outside windows get ISA to clean the EF clear vision to finish... the lights and plastic(inside & out) get Plexus..all zaino removed with charisma towels....and i cant remeber what else...i gotta get a life...

 

So...what would anyone here recommend for touching-up the occasional tiny paint chip. I would assume you would want to do this sometime after washing and before polishing/waxing. Would you recommend using the bottle of stuff that you can get at the dealer or do some of you resort to getting a small bottle of custom mix from the body shop?
I have a Super Black 2k1 and I already have a couple of pin-***** chips on the nose.

 

....

i just became a member here so im not usre what you can find in the archives by looking but...you should get the touch up paint from the dealer...but you dont want ot use the brush they give you with it...to sloppy....go a tiny artists brush or use the end of a match(not the part u strike...or a toothpick )....you have to make sure the chip area is really clean....be sure you dont have any sealant(wax) on there....try to make the chip even in that get any loose pieces out of there....the rule is generally that your better off having to coat it 2-3 times rather than putting too much on the first try...so go easy...dont froget....you just want to get it covered for now to prevent any damage to the clear..etc......later youll be sanding it down a little to make the paint/blob match....the follow up care is about 2-3 more paragraphs....just do a search here and you should find something otherwise get back to me or someone else u trust on the board...good luck

 

Everything has been pretty much covered here but I have a tip for the engine compartment. Wash everything you can get at with car wash soap and water - a garden hose is fine. Rinse it off and spray Armor-All over the entire engine bay when it's still wet - (BE CAREFUL not to get too much overspray on the windsheild or paint)Start it and let it warm up for a few while your washing the rest of the car -(RINSE your bucket after you wash the engine and get fresh soap / water).
When your done washing / drying the car, pop the hood and wipe down everything you can get at. It will look like brand new under the hood when your done! I only use the Armor-All every couple months,but I rinse the engine and dry it down every time I wash the car - it is super easy to keep clean this way. About the overspayed Armor-All....If you get some on the paint / windsheild it WILL wash off when you wash the rest of the car.
I used to use Armor-ALL on tires as well - Meguiers "Endurance" works great!
And, I'm a Zaino man myself, clay bar, #1,#5,#2.-Stuff works GREAT!

 

www.thewaxtest.com

 

You have to use a degreaser on those marks. Any good degreaser at an auto parts store or hardware store should work. Be VERY careful not to get it on any other part than what you intend to clean. It will stick like mad to the carpet and leather or upholstry.

 

Another option is a good bug and tar remover. Some of those scuffs are of the same composition as road tar and they can be removed easily.

 

Hello all...

Just joined, first post. Am the proud owner of a '02 SE with the six-speed. Blue, with light tan cloth. This one is actually my second Maxima SE, the first being an '89 auto. Inbetween, I had a '96 Miata M edition that I'd supercharged.

Yes, it was fast. But I was offered a deal on a new Maxima SE that I couldn't refuse (the old "it's who you know" thing). So now, I've got a new baby, and I couldn't be happier.

And to get back to topic (sort of)...Zaino Bros. is pretty much the only stuff I put on my Miata, and it's what I'll be using on my SE.

A longtime buddy of mine who's the DAPA (Dallas Area Pontiac Assn.) webmaster turned me on to Zaino. Considering his cars...I gave it a shot. The clay bar, #1, #3, #4, the works.

Yes, it is expensive.

Yes, it is (to me, at least) worth it.

 

I can concur with that. I know quite a few people who use Zaino and it is an excellent product. You just have to follow the system to the letter.

 

I get 100% results with...a pencil eraser. If there's anything you can't erase, is permanent.

 

People,

First off, if you want to have a clean Max, don't get a SUPA BLACK exterior like mine. I swear I have almost driven myself nuts keeping it 1)dirt-free and 2)water-spot free. It's damn near impossible.

...but when I DO have it clean, it has the most beautiful shine.

HERE'S A TIP THAT WORKS: I live in the Northeast, where the SALT adheres to my car. I used a brushless, coin-op carwash this past weekend, then drove over 200 miles on a salty stretch of highway. MINIMAL ROAD SALT AND DUST ON MY CAR. You know why?

DE-IONIZED WATER!

Before you laugh, the final two cycles of this machine was the spot free rinse and the de-ionized water. I dried off my car, and drove it around. The salt from the road doesn't adhere to the car unless it's wet, so when it's dry, the stuff won't be attracted to the metal surfaces. I'm a smart man, so I assume it has something to do with the conductivity of the surface when it's dry, but all I know that it was either deionized water or satanic forces...the three other cars that made the same trip with me looked like they just ran the Baja 1000. I was as clean as the second I left the car wash.

I will still clean my Max religiously, but in the ***-cold winter months you can be sure I won't feel bad about using the coin-op car wash!!!

Also...I used Meguiars Scratch-X on my Max when I bought it in September (already had very fine swirl marks from the year it sat on the dealer's lot) and the stuff really works. One layer of Scratch-X, one layer of Meguiars Gold Class = awesome finish. Of course, my had was cramped for a week after all that rubbing and buffing. Heh heh...I meant on the car, of course.

 

no, you're not supposed to just spray water inside the engine. just take a wet cloth and wipe it down. it should look semi clean when you're done, but if its really dirty inside, you can get it steam cleaned...and it'll look almost like new.

 

Steam cleaning it looks really nice when it is all done. I love it.

SuDZ

 

I've been using a garden hose and a bucket of soap and water for YEARS to clean my engine compartment. I don't recommend spraying water INSIDE the ENGINE - Just put oil in there
As far as a low pressure hose goes - it's completely safe as long as your engine is not hot, if the block is hot and you throw cold water on it you run the risk of cracking. So go ahead and try it - even on your Civic.

 

Ok, anyone can use a simple degreaser to clean those stuborn shoe scuff marks on your door's plastic. However, if you're really into somethat you can use outside your car as well as inside your car, try kerosene (from your gas station). It works like magic (really fast). You don't have to kill yourself or your plastic to get it off. The marks should rub off very easily. No, the kerosene WILL NOT hurt your cars plastic whatsoever. I don't recommend cleaning too much stuff inside your car with kerosene because of the temporary smell it leaves. Just use on stubborn stains that don't come off with normal cleaners and protectants (like armoral). Outside your car you can literally wipe keroseen anywhere (yes anywhere). It WILL NOT hurt the paint (most waxes have kerosene in them as a cleaning agent - it's safe). Use it to remove bird droppings, bugs, tar and anything else that you have trouble getting off your beautiful car's paint. In addition, use as a final cleaner and protectant for your rims (unless you have just waxed your rims or something). It will make them shine and....(the #1 benefit) it acts as a rust inhibitor. YES INDEED! How did I find out this wonderful car cleaning tip? The guy who sold me my car formerly was an editor for a automotive car magazine (internationally know). He was the "car care" editor. He knows his stuff.

 

What exactly are Terrycloth towels?? are they just another way of saying 100 cotten towels??

 

I usually like to spray the car wet, and then wipe the whole car over with a cloth. Then, I take the same cloth and dry it out by squeezing all the water out. Then, go over the car again and dry the cloth once again. Then ,take another dry cloth with no water on it at all. Take the first piece of cloth and wipe a little part of the car at a time, then dry it with the other cloth. This way, you can have a spot less car with no water drops. Then, once you are done, apply some turtle wax for the "dealership" type shine.

To clean the wheels, do the same, or go to a car wash to use a high pressure washer.

 

Soft water system in the house

 

YOUR server keeps kicking me off . . . sorry . . .

To continue . . .

-Soft water system in the home
-New, expensive terry cloth towels washed at least 20 times and lots of softener added to the rinse cycle
-Zaino for everything except
-GelCoat streak free spray glass cleaner
-200 m.p.h Toro

My last car had about 15 coats of Zaino, and I was always stopped by individuals asking what I did to it. Works best on black.

 

Okay guys/gals, here's one for you cleaning experts.

What do you do to clean AND PROTECT your plastic headlight fronts so that they remain clean and unscratched? Unfortunately the headlights of the 2k2 are covered in a plastic casing which has the potential to get scratched with tiny road debris as the years progress. Any ideas on protecting?

[I am in preventative mode. Wish Nissan would use something other than plastic here! I DID read the post re. CLEANING Headlamps with clay etc., but I am looking more for a PROTECTING. Wax won't do 'cuz it'll haze things up. ?]

 

( 1 ) fill 3/4 a bucket with water, add 2-4 capfuls of car wash liquid " I use STP Car Wash ".
DO NOT use dish washing liquid, because it strips all the wax off your car..wash your car with a clean spong.

( 2 ) Dont let the water dry out, cause it's gonna leave marks and dots on your car, Dry the car after rinsing it, with a clean chamoise or a %100 cotton towel.

( 3 ) open the hood, the trunk, and all the doors, remove the water drops from the edges, leave the doors open, so you can lose the the ciggarrets smell, and all farting N' ya know...

( 4 ) spray your wheels with a STP wheel cleaner, and spray the Tires with a good tire cleaner, if you have no money to buy a tire cleaner get a " shoe paint ", and use it, or put some engine oil on a towel and paint the tires " LOOKS GOOD "!!!

( 5 ) spray the dash board with a good dash board cleaner, leave for 3-6 minutes, and then remove the extra **** with a towel.

( 6 ) take out the mats and clean them with a Vaccum cleaner, clean the car's floor with the vaccum cleaner also..

( 7 ) clean the edges in your car's body that you cant reach with a towel, with a Microbiologically controlled cotton ( thats what you use for cleaning the dirt in your nasty ears ).

( 8 ) spray some air refreshner inside the car.

( 9 ) Fill the car with gas.

( 10 ) get your Girl Friend and take a ride in the town.

ISN'T THIS THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN YOUR CAR????

 

I would recommend using Plexus to polish and clean the plastic. As far as protection is concerned, I would look into getting something like StonGard to keep your headlights from getting scratched and nicked.

 

I'm brand new here and looking for advice. I've had my Super Black 02 Max SE for a week now and she is in need of a wash. This is my first black car (did have a forest green one) so I'm really worried about keeping her looking good. Here's my game plan:

Wash: Meguirs Gold Class or Turtle Wax Car Wash(worked good on the green car). I have bought an Absorber from Wallmart for Drying. Are these any good?? I also have some Meguirs Quick Detailer to use in between washes for stains or presents from the birds on the lightpole I park under at work!

Interior: For now I've got some of the Armor All Leather wipes and cleaning wipes. I've never been too keen on dash protectants, seems to me the actually make the dash age faster. I know I'll have to get some real leather conditioner eventually (probably won't apply for a few months) and I'll probably get Meguirs.
WAX: Here's where I really need some advice. Does anyone here use Nu Finish or Finish 2001? I think they are polishes, not waxes. But both claim to protect for a year or more. What about Meguirs Cleaner Wax or Meguirs Gold Class Wax? What I really want is to avoid (or correct) minor scratches and have a glossy shine.

I apologize for this being a long post. But I want to keep this beautiful machine looking great as long as possible. I really do love this car. Thanks for any help!!

 

When you guys wax your cars, how do avoid getting the wax onto the lettering, in tiny crevices or other parts like the window sills? I waxed my old car before I got my 2K2 SE and spent months trying to get old wax off the lettering!

Thanks

 

I've done some research and I think I've got my strategy down. I've got two possibilities.

After washing and drying:
1. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze followed with Blitz wax or P21S wax

2. Klasse All in One Polish and Sealer followed by Klasse Glaze (I think this is what GimmeTorq posted he used on his Black Max)

What I really need is something that is durable. Due to a hectic work schedule, I can't put enourmous amounts of time in. However, I can already see some fine scratches in the Super Black finish(probably from washing at the dealer) so I'd like to get rid of them. Last question, since Klasse All in one does include a polish, should I use 3M Imp. Hand Glaze with it? I've heard that the synthetics can actually accentuate swirls so that's why I'm concerned. So, what's best guys? 1 or 2 or a combo?
Thanks for your help!

 

Since GimmeTorq and I both use Klasse and are both from the same area (Chicago), we enjoy the durability and the gloss that the Klasse provides. This stuff has held up through some of the worst winter weather that Chicago has thrown at it and when it is washed, it looks like a brand new car.

With that in mind, let me give you the plan of attack I used when I first applied Klasse.

a) Washed the car with Dawn. I had Meguiar's #26 on there previously and wanted to get that off.

b) Clayed using a decent clay bar. That got rid of the bonded contaminants in the paint. If you use the Meguiar's Kit, make sure you spray enough Quick detailer on it so that you don't get the infamous residue. But if you want to use a good clay bar, you might want to look at Clay Magic (can be purchased at www.autodetail.com).

c) Applied Klasse All-In-One Polish twice.

d) Applied Klasse Sealant Glaze twice.

This spring, my plan of attack is slightly different. I am going to wash the car with alcohol to remove the Klasse. Everything else remains the same except that I will be applying 3M Swirl Mark Remover and the Klasse twins using a Porter-Cable 7336 Orbital Polisher. Then I intend to top the twins with Pinnacle Souveran.

 

Thanks for the feedback. You've got me leaning toward the Klasse products since it sounds like they give you a lot of protection with minimal time investment. I'm still a little concerned about using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze with this though. I really want to get rid of the slight swirls in my finish, but I don't want to be to agressive either. How did the Klasse All in one perform as a polish(removing the swirls)? Would there be a downside to applying 3M Hand Glaze before applying Klasse Polish followed by Sealant?
Thanks.

I'm finding that I'm a lot more concerned with this car than I ever was with my '97 Monte Carlo.

 

Welcome to the obsession known as detailing, my friend. Over time, you are going to start looking into more and more products to keep your Maxima sparkling. Experimentation is sometimes the name of the game so that you can get your techniques down.

The irony between the two of us is that we both were Chevy owners prior to being Maxima Owners (In my case, 1988 Caprice).

But back to your question. What you might want to consider is purchasing some 3M Swirl Mark Remover (They have different formulations for light colored cars and dark colored cars) if the swirls warrant this. But in some cases, the Klasse All-In-One can get some light swirling out. I would definitely advise against putting Imperial Hand Glaze on your car before the Klasse. The Klasse needs to be able to bond with the paint and the IHG will not allow that process. Since IHG is a wax, you might want to use it on top of the Klasse to add depth. But if you are looking for either durability or higher gloss, you might want to consider One Grand Blitz (Durability) or Pinnacle Paste Glaz or Souveran. Personally, I am now a Souveran fanatic. The level of gloss on Souveran is virtually unparalleled. Souveran on top of Klasse will have you drooling over your finish.

 

I just looked into ordering some Klasse to use this weekend. Shipping is going to kill me so I guess this time around I'll use something different. I really need to get some wax on there this weekend due to pollen season here and job demands over the next couple months. So here's my game plan:
1.) If I can't find any 3M Imperial Hand Glaze in my local autozone, I'll use some Turtle Wax Clear Coat Polish and Restorer I once used on my old Monte Carlo. It didn't work bad on that, but I was trying to use it to remove some larger scratches. The scratches on my Maxima's hood are barely noticeable so this should fill those in.
2.) If I can find it, I'll protect with Meguiars Poly Sealant or High Tech Yellow Wax. Really would like a synthetic since they last longer. My car is outside 24/7 so durability is more important than shine. If none of the above can be found, I know I can get some Meguiar's Gold Class Liquid Wax. I've heard good things about it. Is it Carnuba, Polymer, both? Any info will be appreciated!!

Just a side question, I'm real new to really worrying about my cars finish. What about Turtle Wax products? I don't see anyone here talking about them, but I know bunches of guys who use them. Are they kinda "lower grade" products?

Anyway, I'll order some Klasse this fall to have the car sealed up for winter.

 

PrinzII, you read my mind... I was about to PM you with this same question. Klasse AIO did a pretty good job getting rid of light swirl marks in my Max, but there still some left (DEALER PREP WORK SUCKS!). I think I will be trying some claybar and 3M™ Perfect-It™ Swirlmark Remover treatment this summer before applying Klasse AIO and Glaze.

Peace

 

If Klasse is a tad out of reach, a cheaper alternative would be Meguiar's products. If you go that route, you might need to apply these in the following order:

#9 Swirl Mark Remover (They have a new formulation)
#20 Sealant Glaze
#26 Hi-Tech Wax

Where did you order the Klasse from?