I actually haven't ordered the Klasse products yet. I was looking at properautocare.com. But I did find some 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and 3M Liquid Show Car Wax. I'll use them this time around and switch to Klasse to get ready for the winter. I actually do have one concern though, I've only had the car 2 weeks. Is it too early to glaze and wax the paint? I think the dealer did a wax job since the water beads on the hood real well. I just don't want to wax it too early an screw up the finish. Man I am **** about this car.

Does anyone know anything about Blackfire products? I've read a couple of things and they look pretty interesting. Thanks for any advice.

 

Actually, the earlier, the better. The key thing you are looking for is protecting your finish and keeping it looking like new for years to come.

As far as Blackfire is concerned, I have not read too much on it but from the looks of things, it is similar to Zaino as it has a system that must be followed.

 

Well,
started the day at 11 with a washing of the new black max. Ran into problems when the synthetic chamois from Target had soap in it!!! What the ???? Switched to an absorber and solved that problem. After letting the car air dry for a little while I started on the hood with the 3M IHG. Good stuff!! Covered up swirls nicely and made the paint look real good. Then applied a coat of 3M Liquid Show Car Wax. Didn't work bad, but this stuff was a bit of a pain to get all of the "haziness" out. Started running into time pressure about 6 PM and will have to finish the rear panels and rear bumper tommorrow.

How long does it take some of yall to Wash, Dry, Glaze, Wax?? Maybe I'm just slow but I think 7 hours should get the whole car done. If this is norm I'm going to have to find other products to use. (Actually if the 3M wax durability sucks then I'll find others quickly). Everything I've read is pointing to Blackfire so far.
May the Force be with you!

 

Took me around 4-5hrs. That included washing, drying, applying one coat of Klasse AIO, and two coats of Klasse Sealant Glaze. Didn't mind though. It was fun

 

I say..."LISTEN TO 2kKevxSE or wutever, i would do just about the same thing, but i would use dishwasher soap to first strip the WAX b4 i claybar the car, and then use carwash soap after the claybar b/c the claybar leaves a white residue on ur car... ders no point in trying to remove all contaminants on ur car when you have an old layer of wax on it right??

after the 2nd wash do everything wut kev seys... BUT DID YOU EVER THINK OF THIS~!!!

************************************************** ***************** USE A LEAFBLOWER TO DRY UR CAR~!!!
************************************************** ***************


FREAKING WORKS GREATS~!~!! U KNOW DOES LIL DROPS OF WATER THAT APPER OUT UB da LIL CREVICES AND MIRORS ON UR CAR AFTER YOU DRY IT, THE FUQING LEAFBLOWER JUST BLOWS ALL DAT **** AWAY~!!!! WORKS GREAT... best thing you can do to dry a car....~!!!!

OH and ZAINO might not be as well known as miguiars buh works as good....buh... i still trust meguiars better....mah fwend uses zaino on his 2k2 firebird ws6 and it duz miricles....same 4 my car w/ the meguiars...

 

Have been using a leaf blower for over 10 years now . . . that's what I said when I replied to this post on page 9 regarding the "200 m.p.h. Toro" . . .

It's greatest invention ever made to dry a car with. Works best on those areas where the water settles like the bottom of the mirrors, taillights, sidemarkers, etc. Works great on the wheels and tires . . . no need to bend over to dry them.

I usually do the entire car, and if there is anything left, I use a chamois to get it . . .

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT TO EVERY READER HERE . . .

 

Quick question,
I used 3M Show Car Liquid Wax a couple weeks ago on my black max. Pretty good results, real nice shine and reflectivity.
Is this stuff a synthetic or natural wax? I think it's synthetic but not sure. I'll probably use it a couple more times and then switch to Klasse or Blackfire later this year. Just waiting for durability results on the Blackfire before deciding.

 

I use to use this ALOT in the spring/summer/fall months. Its somewhat time consuming and you should make sure the blower is clean with no dust or small bits or leaves in it or it will be sand blasted into your car. If you use it right, it dries your car nicely getting into the cracks and grooves. Also, the California water blade is great when your in a hurry.

Question:

If I polish the car and then use a cleaner/wax, will it strip the polish off? Cleaner wax is suppost to strip the previous wax and apply the new wax.

 

i live in michigan. theres a lot of snow, rocks, and debris in the roads in the winter. to avoid chipping i bought the nissan bra and have had it on for the whole of winter. omg, i just took it off and i can literally SEE where my bra used to be. theres sap and other crap thats adhered itself to the paint, im assuming from tiny branches and leaves getting caught inside the bra.

can someone give me some advice on how to deal with this??? id take it to a shop for a body detail but im a simple and destitute college student. in other words, p00r. (my parents bought me the car!)

help!

 

What might have to happen here is to get a good tar remover to get rid of the sap. If the sap has been on there a while, you might have to blot the tar remover on it and let it sit to loosen the sap. Then you are going to have to wash and clay the entire car.

With me being 2 states west of you, I know how brutal the winters can be. You might want to invest in a quality sealant (e.g. Zaino or Klasse).

 

Use a dab of "Goo Gone" on a soft cloth, the tar will wipe right off.

 

k, i tried the turtle wax bug adnd sap remover. no dice. i left the stuff on for a while (let it soak in), but it did not wipe away. even hard scrubbing action didnt do the trick. btw, the sap has been on there for a while! for months! the whole of winter actually! its all hardened and brown. i hope its not petrified!

i tried to get one piece off with my fingernail and i wound up scratching the paint a little! blahhhh.

any advice? and oh, the little pieces of sap are tiny. about half the size of a fingernail or so. but its hard and stuck on the paint real good.

help!

 

If the tar remover doesn't work, try a clay bar.

 

I boiled water and put it on. then used a credit card and most of it came off. I heard rubbing alchol works too, just dab the spots with a q tip

 

has anyone tried driwash and guard?

 

If you're looking for the best cotton towels for your Max, go to the Fieldcrest Cannon outlet and buy the "ROYAL VELVET" towels & washclothes. The softest, best cotton in the world. I use nothing else to wash & wax. Plus, outlet prices are great.

www.fieldcrestcannonoutlet.com

Make it shine!

 

I have also heard that Charismas are good for this purpose as well. Some folks have serged the edges to keep the ends from scratching the paint.

 

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showth...2968#post92968

 

PrinzII,

I am getting ready for a massive detail on the Max and I noticed you have clayed and then SGed your rims, I have the original 17" SE rims, is it ok to do that to them? and what's the advantage? I mean they wipe clean so easily as it is. Also, I'm not so sure I like Maguiers tire gel, it seems to attract brake dust to quickly, what tire gel do you recommend? Thx for the info.

 

I just want to pass on my experience with EagleOne tire tint. It holds up pretty good, depending on the amount of rain and dirt you run into. I used the Silver tint, they also make a blue and red tint. It is nice and subtle, works well with my Gray luster max. Just clean your wheels real good and use an applicator sponge to wipe on. The more you use, the better you see the color of the tint. When i finally get to wash my car again i will apply and post a pic, has a nice silver metallic shine to the tire.

 

(2002 GLE) Can anyone tell me what to use to clean the inside back rear window, the black rubber dots on the top. Everything I use leaves a film.

 

Both steps actually benefit the rim in that it extends the rim's luster and longevity. SG (Klasse Sealant Glaze) adds a layer of protection to the rim so that brake dust and the elements don't jack it up. In fact, the glaze actually makes the rim easier to clean. Claying it pulls a lot of the embedded contaminats (e.g. brake dust) from the rim. The thing about our SE rims is that they are clearcoated just like the paint on our car. They get assaulted by the elements and other contaminants (e.g. brake dust) that can eventually deteriorate them over time.

As far as tire gels are concerned, If you looked at the thread from the beginning, you will notice I used Meguiar's Endurance Gel as well. It looks good going on but I noticed that it had a tendency to brown. The reason for that is that most tire protectants are silicone based and some silicones tend to brown more than others.
I prefer to use Lexol Vinlyex to treat my tires because it's a water based product that gives me more of a satin finish. I apply it using an Eagle One tire swipe.

 

Currently, I am using Stoner's Invisible Glass and a Microfiber Towel.
The results are splendid. No streaking whatsoever. But the trick with using Stoner's is that you do not apply abundantly like Windex. You use a thin (and I do mean thin) coat of Stoners and wipe it with the fluffier side of the Microfiber Towel. After the initial wipe, then wipe using the other side to polish.

I also have Eagle One 20/20 mixed with rubbing alcohol in my arsenal as well.

You can get Stoner's at AutoZone or Pep Boys. To get Microfiber Towels, I would recommend the following sites:

www.neatitems.com
www.yosteve.com (That's where I got mine)
www.properautocare.com
www.tacscar.com

 

Thank you. I will try that.

 

Hey, what's up guyz, i actually have a coupla questions in regards to cleaning my 2k2 maxima......here they go:

1) I've noticed recently - my lcd display of my radio gets a lot of dust particles onto it, is there any type of wipe or somehting to put over it so they don't get stuck as easily???

2) While my car is used everyday, i've noticed people's feet marks on my door at the bottom as they step in/out, and I was wondering is there any type of wipe/spray to clean that up?????

3) Also for my leather seats, I've noticed a lot of dirt in the creases of the seats..is there anything that can pick the loose dirt up??? as I dont' want to vacuum on my seats........

Thankz for the help in advance.....

Later

 

1) I've noticed recently - my lcd display of my radio gets a lot of dust particles onto it, is there any type of wipe or somehting to put over it so they don't get stuck as easily???
(One thing that might work for dusting is a microfiber towel. Those are effective in picking up dust and not scratching whatever they touch. The only thing with some is that you might have to worry about linting. If you want some online vendors for those, check two threads above this one. I use a vent brush for dusting the face of my radio. To keep the dusting to a minimum, you might want to consider Plexus which has some anti-static properties.)

2) While my car is used everyday, i've noticed people's feet marks on my door at the bottom as they step in/out, and I was wondering is there any type of wipe/spray to clean that up?????
(I have used diluted Eimann Fabrik Hi Intensity to clean the interior.
It's also effective in getting the scuff marks off)

3) Also for my leather seats, I've noticed a lot of dirt in the creases of the seats..is there anything that can pick the loose dirt up??? as I dont' want to vacuum on my seats........
(Try a vent brush. Some of them have very soft bristles and can be used to clean tight areas such as the creases on your leather seats. Just brush the crud to the floor and vacuum it up.)

 

Hey, thankz for the answerz, but can I get the 'Eimann Fabrik Hi Intensity' spray from places like pepboys and kar parts??????

Thankz in advance...

Later

 

No. You would have to order it from www.properautcare.com

 

Hey what's up guyz, i just purchased the 3m swirl remover, as my car seems to have small 'swirl' looking scratches, im not sure if its' scratches or what, but i bleieve it happened after i waxed my car, and i was wondering if 3m swirl remover would take these marks away? Also, are these scratches or what? has this happened to anyone else?

Thankz in advance...

Later guyz....

 

The scratches you are referring to are swirl marks. These scratches are in the clearcoat. 3M Swirl Mark Remover will get them out for you. However, you need to make sure you do not apply it the same way you applied your wax. You apply it (as well as any wax) in a linear motion. If it's used the correct way, it will get rid of the swirls with no problem. If the swirls are too severe, then you might have to consider using Finesse-It II then the swirl mark remover.

 

 

Glad you like them. To clean them, you just wash them with Dawn away from everything else.

 

I have used vaseline for 10 years on all my leather goods.my motorcycle leathers,seats,gloves,saddlebags,boots.it does a great job keeping the leather soft, supple,and waterproof.I use it on plastic and other trim on my 2000 max.apply it before parking the car for the night.by morning the leather will have absorbed the vaseline,and will have a nice texture without being slippery or sticky.a large jar will last quite a while.buying expensive leather conditioner or armourall is wasteful,expensive,and I have found it doesnt really protect anything lol

 

 

i have a question about the 3m swirlmark remover. is it harmful to leave it on your car for an extended period of time? lets say, an hour? or even overnight? not that i want to do this but, its good to know if one is supposed to be extra careful with this stuff.

when you guys apply this stuff. im assuming you wipe it off immediately before moving on to the next section of the car?

 

A short time ago, I wrote a review for three different clay bars I have used. I used the Meguiar's Quik Detail Clay Kit, Mothers Clay Kit, and now the Clay Magic Kit. All three can be bought OTC at Pep Boys or AutoZone.

Now for the review:

Clay Magic

Pros: Very soft and pliable, very effective in removing contaminants, Natural Clay, Price
Cons: Will leave residue on un-lubed areas if you aren't careful (residue can be removed with a MT and the lube)

I used the Clay Magic kit on the Maxima last weekend and found that the product is very easy to use. I found it very easy to form into the requisite patty and break off pieces from the bar. The bar was a bear to get open because it was somewhat sticky (but that's a good thing in this case). After claying, the finish felt very smooth and it made the application of AIO a breeze.


Mothers

Pros: Very effective in contaminant removal, largest bar in the three
Cons: Difficult to shape and break off, Price is highest (Mine ran me around $17 at Pep Boys), I did not get more than 3 good uses out of it before I had to toss it.

The first thing I noticed about this bar is that it was very hard to shape. No matter what amount of brute strength I used, this bar took a lot of force to break apart and/or form into a useable shape. It had gotten to the point where I wanted to use a saw or serrated knife to cut the bar into pieces. The supplied QD is a very good lubricant (I still have some left). After claying my '94 Maxima, a '92 Accord, Part of a '99 Navigator, and an '00 Concorde, I had to toss the bar.


Meguiar's

Pros: Very pliable, inexpensive, QD is a good lube
Cons: Can leave a lot of residue, bar is smaller than Clay Magic

This item is inexpensive but the adage of "You get what you pay for applies here." I like the fact that the bar is easy to open but the bar is smaller than the Clay Magic and the Mothers. As far as ease of use, the bar would leave moderate residue on the thinly lubed areas. The finish was smooth but not as smooth as the Mothers or Clay Magic. I liked the pliability of the bar but the extra work to make sure that the residue was gone made me give that kit to a friend of mine. I did clay more cars with it than with the Mother's.

My personal preference is the Clay Magic because it gives me the best balance between pliability, ease of use, and effectiveness.

 

What I do is apply the Swirl Mark Remover one section at a time on the car. I do not use circular strokes to apply it but I stay linear.
Then I wipe it off immediately.

(Writing this thread reminds me that I need to get my hands on a Porter Cable 7336 Orbital Polisher)

 

I bought a 2002 Maxima in January and I'm wondering when I should wax it. I have been told to wait at least 6 months. Is this true? What type of wax is recommended for the Maxima?

Thanks!

 

The only time you should really wait to wax or apply any type of sealant is when you get your car out of the body shop. The reason for that wait is cure time for the paint and the clear.

As far as your new Max is concerned, you could have waxed it the day you brought it home because the paint cure time is a lot shorter from the factory.

As far as brands of wax to use, there are so many on the market. Everyone here will tell you different ones based on their own experiences. In my case, I have used Meguiar's #26 and Pinnacle Souveran. Out of the two, the Souveran has the best gloss and is easy to apply and remove but does not last as long. If you are looking for a wax that is durable, then I would recommend One Grand Blitz. If you are looking for a wax that combines the best of Souveran with Blitz, get P21s.

 

http://www.autopia.org/forums/showth...881#post104881