I have to admit, after using expensive waxs and tried all the zymbols, blitz, zainos, gold class, The best wax in the world (which isnt even a wax) has to be a german wax called Classe. I would back that up 100% against any poly waxes out there. I put a coat of it on 2 months agao and just washed my car yesterday and it feels like it has just been waxed. I have washed my car at least 6 times since the first coat. I wish I could buy some stock in it.

 

<<<< already a Klasse-holic.

 

i kno there's chemical in the soap that can erode the paint/finishing over long periods of time. what's the worst that can happen?

 

As if this topic wasn't beaten to death, i cam across this product during my online endeavors:

http://www.5starshine.com/

I know. It sounds to good to be true. Has anybody else ever heard of it or used?

 

I just took a look at the link, and you're right, it sounds too good to be true. Chosen by the Navy to protect radars???? I don't know about that.

Also, I didn't see a price on there. But, if anybody has used it or knows anyone that had good results with it, I'd definitely buy it to try.

Anyone?

Thanks.

 

OK, this is going to sound stupid. Do you have to use a buffer to apply the Klasse cleaning product. I am looking for a good product to remove swirl marks. I thought I could avoid those by washing the car myself and low and behold, SWIRL MARKS. I read somewhere that the Klasse products do not require the use of a buffer. Any suggestions on what to use? Thanks in advance for the help.

 

What I would advise you to do is head to your local parts store and pick up some of those foam wax applicators. Put a dime sized portion on the pad and apply in a linear fashion. All-In-One does not require drying/hazing, therefore, you will need to remove it as soon as you apply it. For removal, I use microfiber towels that I purchased from www.yosteve.com. The sealant glaze is a tad different. You let that haze for a short bit and then remove it with a microfiber towel.

Then you let the Klasse cure at least 24 hrs and apply another coat of the sealant glaze.

 

Hey, went into my car today and saw a coupla things that kinda distracted me...so here they are..

1) Is there anyway to get all that lint off the BOSE screen, and the temperature thing??? In addition, what can i do for the whole interior - in regards to all the lint? ( I park the car outside if that makes any difference at all )


2)While wiping down the interior, I use the Armor all wipes but when I look inside after a day or two, i get these white dots everywhere? I also use the HI-INTENSITY General Purpose Cleaner..but that also doens't seem to be working for me??

Lastly..

As for the fake wood, I use Armor all wipes - but that leaves streakes.....


Can someone please help me out....the car looks like a mess even after spending so much time cleaning it....I dont' know what to do ..



Thank you all in advance....

 

Yea, i have heard diapers work really well, but i cant figure out where to get them. Do you know where i can pick some up

 

When I 1st got my 2k2 it had a 3/4 to 1 inch scratch on the right rear bumper, right in the curve of it. A porter must have bumped it. It was also about 1/16" thick and deep. Anyway I got a bottle of touch up paint and some masking tape (the blue painters tape). After using a razor blade to clean the edges and alcohol to get any wax off I taped off the scratch and using the brush in the cap laid as many thin coats as possible, enough to cause it to rise over the tape. 10-15 coats 10min to 1/2hr between coats. Starting Saturday morning any time I thought about it I went to the garage and put a quick coat on. After not using the car all weekend I took the tape off on Monday morning and man it looked like crap but I knew it would. The next weekend I waxed the car. I taped around the hump of paint leaving a gap of about 1/4" around the hump. Using a very small amount of rubbing compound on my buffers edge I lightly went over the area working the paint flush. After waxing you can't even tell it was there.

Now with something smaller like a chip a toothpick is perfect to apply to paint. Use a hammer to flatten the very tip slightly and using as many coats as possible fill the chip (several coats is key), no need to tape now on something this small. Then give it at least several days to cure, you can also wait as long as you like. If you don't have your own buffer I would get it detailed and not do it by hand as you'll most likely make it worse. Tape around the chip leaving the slight gap and buff it smooth. Cleaner wax will work on the buffer too it will just take a little longer. DON'T use too much pressure and keep moving using light passes. Remove the tape and finish cleaning and waxing the car and your good as new.

If this is too much for you a detail shop should be able to point you in the direction of a touch up guy. They tape it off and use an airbrush making several passes to fill the chip or scratch. But instead of over filling it on the last coat they remove the tape apply the paint and cover the spot with cellophane or stretch wrap, this makes it smooth and some paint will be pulled over the edge of the chip or scratch. They heat it up to cure and your ready for detailing.

I hope this helps keep your car looking like new!

 

I just got a scratch...very good write-up!!! THANKS!

 

1) Is there anyway to get all that lint off the BOSE screen, and the temperature thing??? In addition, what can i do for the whole interior - in regards to all the lint? ( I park the car outside if that makes any difference at all )

(Yep. You might want to consider using a different type of towel on that so you don't scratch up your displays. A nice microfiber towel will definitely do the trick)

2)While wiping down the interior, I use the Armor all wipes but when I look inside after a day or two, i get these white dots everywhere? I also use the HI-INTENSITY General Purpose Cleaner..but that also doens't seem to be working for me??
(I have a question. Are you using the HI full strength? Do you have a pic of these dots?)

Lastly..

As for the fake wood, I use Armor all wipes - but that leaves streakes.....
(Most people use a damp cloth to clean the fake wood (it's plastic anyway). For polishing, I would recommend Plexus)


Signed....another Gray Lustre Max Owner

 

I use the armor all wipes first. Then I use a polish/wax applicator pad to go over the armor all. It really smooths it out with no lint. On the bose stereo/ climate controls, I use endust electronics spary. It works great. You can buy small bottles that will fit in the center console at Office Max.

 

During cold months or after a rain when you dont have time to wash.. Use Meguiars Quick Detailer and 2 100% cotton towels - one to wipe wet and another to dry. Even better yet, if you have a garage, after driving in the rain use this procedure to quickly clean your car. This prevents acid rain water spotting/etching in the paint. I also do the wheels this way often to keep down brake dust.

Use a plastic polish with a soft cotton polishing cloth on the guage cluster plexiglass / radio, etc. Be careful not to scratch these and dont get protectants like armor all on them.

When drying your car dont forget the door jambs, trunk, hood, and gas filler door. If you clean them every time it makes it easier.

 

Wow. Somene else that knows how to treat a car right. I do almost everything you do right down to rinsing large water drops off using hose without a nozzle.

To add to your list:

Never us a chamois: It holds dirt and can scratch paint. Always use a clean 100% cotton towel to dry.
Use two towels: One to dry off most of water, the other to dry off film/tiny spots left by first towel.

Use auto carpet cleaner that has Scotchguard in it. Saves a step.

Never use Armorall! It does acts somewhat like a solvent on certain vinyl and plastics and will cause cracking later on. Never use it on leather if you do like to use it on other stuff.

Open all doors, trunk, and hood to clean and dry seams with the damp towel you just used to off dry rest of car. Then use a different towel to dry off wheels. Never use same cleaning mits or drying towels on wheels as you use on paint.

Use a diffent wash mit if lower edges of car is very dirty so you don't get dirt imbedded and scratch rest of car.

Soak dirty car before washing. Use high pressure inside wheelwells.
Use those new lintless and veryabsorbent towels to clean interior.

AUTO CAR WASH:
Automated Car wash machines are not too good for a car, But you should use one twice a year. Look around at type of cars lined up around car wash. Try to use a car wash located in the best neigborhoods with all fancy cars around. The machines are much cleaner and not likely to damage your car.
Only go to the ones that spray underside of car well. This keeps rust away, makes cleaner to work on car, and helps you spot oil leaks.
Get the hot wax option, because it goes in all the nooks and crannies where hand wax cannot get too.
Air dry is best, but if there are guys hand drying your car, make sure they are using clean cotton cloths and change them often ( those red mechanic cloths scratch paint). You can always dry your car yourself. Tip well, and go to the car wash on same day as you got good service before. Those wash and dry guys remember who tips and who does not. They spend a lot of time detailing good tippers cars.

 

The only thing I've seen on clean tires is do NOT use silicon based products. Is this the same as petroleum based products? I've read the labels on a lot of these "no wipe" tire products and none of them indicate if they are silicon based. I did see one that stated "no petroleum". Can I assume this is safe to use?

 

All protectants have some type of silicone in them. However, protectants such as Lexol's Vinylex and 303 protectant are water based which means they are less likely to attract dirt and brown the tires as other protectants such as Meguiar's Endurance are prone to do.

 

I am a Meguiars bigot!
1. Wash car using Gold Class Car Wash and Conditioner. Rinse car with spray nozzle off so water sheets off. Use CA Water Blade to remove remaining water. Use special deep pile towels to remove very little remaining water.
2. It is at this point I would use clay bar if required. Never had to use it so it sits on the shelf!
3. Meguiars has a highest quality polish called Medallion. I use the Medallion Car polish to clean paint and to renew it. It is applied using a foam POLISHING PAD and a Porter Cable Variable Speed Dual Action Orbital Buffer (PC).
4. Dried product is removed using an Ultimate Bonnet on PC to remove polish.
5. Medallion Paint Protection is applied using FINISHING PAD
finishing pad and PC.
6. Dried product is removed using an Ultimate Bonnet on PC to remove polish. I use a different Bonnet to remove Medallion Polish and Medallion Paint Protection as each product has different characteristics.
7. I finish off by hand using the Ultimate Wipe.
8. Vinyl and rubber are treated using PROFESSIONAL VINYL & RUBBER #40
Cleaner and Conditioner.
9. I use THE GOLD CLASS ENDURANCE TIRE PROTECTANT GEL. Tires look great for about 6 weeks after use. Awesome product
10. I rain X the windows about every 6 weeks, just in process of trying out WW Fluid that has Rain X in it.

It sounds like a lot of work but I can do it in 2 hours by using Porter cable and velcro backed pads. I can change pads in about 15 seconds.
I may be biased but IMO the results are awesome!

 

The Porter Cable Variable Speed Dual Action Orbital Buffer is a god send. I can polish and wax my I30 in 2 hours. Lowes has them at a good price. Best source for pads is Meguiars, their pads are velcro backed and can be changed in 15 seconds. You'll feel guilty getting done so quickly and the results are awesome!

 

Try Mequiars Microfiber Dust Mitt, It seems to swallow the dust and it is washable. Meguiars has a Plastic Cleaner and a Plastic Polish that will fix your plastic problem.

 

For the outside, the mats and the engine, I just use my 2400 psi pressure washer. Follow the instructions and use low pressure with a good car wash in the feeder. Let the soap solution stay on the car 3 minutes and use high pressure at a 45 degree angle. This way the dirt is deflected off the vehicle and nothing harsh or abrasive ever touches the finish. Depending on the quality of your rinse water you may have to wipe the vehicle down to eliminate water spotting.

 

I just discovered another use for my air compressor/air tools...

I attach the air gun attachment and use it to dry my car!! Combined with my Porter Cable, I can do a full detail in about 2 hours

I am a power tool junkie.

 

There's a good deal on an orbital buffer from sears that runs until April 9th 03'.

I picked one up a few days ago and managed to wash my car w/ dawn, then washed again with Zymol car wash, then used zymol cleaner/wax and buffed with buffer, applied Meguiars #7 Glaze then hand buffed, then waxed with Meguiars Gold Class and buffed once again with the orbital buffer. I thought that removing the glaze by hand would yield better results, and it did. I started at 10am and finished by 2pm, all on a misty Saturday in the northeast.

I recommend the California duster from Costco for dusting the interior and exterior. It only takes 10 seconds to dust the whole interior. It runs 12 bucks for both the exterior, interior brush and carry case, you cant go wrong.

I will move over to "Best of Show" car wax when my bottle of Meguiars is finished. And on one note, the buffer is very easy to use. You don't apply any pressure at all when buffing, and you use it in a checkerboard pattern, creating horizontal and vertical sweeps along the hood, roof, and trunk. Along the sides you do what ever is easiest.

My dad traded in his minivan for a 330ci (demo w/ 2K miles). Luckily he didn't trade the max for it. The 330's finish had swirl marks from the dealer. It's very noticeable on a sunny day, and I will report back to the forum after I used meguiars #7 glaze on his car. That's if he lets me. I didn't have any swirl marks on the hood, roof or trunk after my waxing, yet was left with some slight swirl marks on the right side of the car, primarily from forgetting to change the bonnet. IMO You don’t need to shell out big bucks for a porter cable buffer to get good results. Just spare yourself a good 4-5 hours and get the exterior of your show car sparkling clean.

 

Sorry the link isn't working. Here are the specs for the 10" buffer.

Craftsman 10 in. Random Orbital Buffer/Polisher
Buffer/Polisher features a lock on button. Duplicates hand motion for buffing/polishing. It will not leave swirl marks. Has 2400 opm. Soft foam pad adjusts to contours.


Includes 3 terry cloth bonnets, 5 applicator bonnets, 1 polishing bonnet and a storage case.

www.sears.com Enter model number 10626

 

There is a good deal at Sams Club if anyone is a member... you get the california waterblade, and duster for $20.

I'm picking up that Buffer this week...

 

Thats great. I use a squeegy blade that I got from target. It costs 2 bucks (on clearance from the bathroom cleaning section), I can't justify paying 10 bucks for the blade, considering I only use it for the top surfaces of the car. The max as you know it, is pretty tough to dry on the sides of the car.

5 terry bonnets run about 10 dollars from pep boys. I think they will work fine.

 

I went to sears to find that craftsman buffer but they didn't have any 10 inch ones at all so I bought a 6 inch buffer.
It was 29 bucks but didn't have all the bonnets like the web site(the site was down). So I'm in Wal-Mart to day and I spot a MVPsuperlie 10 inch buffer for 19 bucks. I had to spring for the bonnets but it beats the deal at Sears. I hope this brand stands up to Craftsman. One problem though..I have never buffed a car before Any advice is welcomed.I don't want to hurt this car's finish. You guys have motivated me to pamper this car soI'm gonna do my best...lol. Also, are thier any online site that have a surplus on bonnets?

 

Engine
http://www.nsxhelp.com/amnsxlit/Engi...ngineTrick.htm

Guide to Polishing and waxing
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=599794

Clay bars
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=658332

 

We all know that using a clay bar on your paint and/or your wheels can remove contaminants in those areas. However, did anyone ever try claying their glass or their mirrors? Believe it or not, the glass is under as much assault from the elements as is the rest of the car. Try claying the glass and then following up with a good cleaner or even a glass polish and take a gander at the results.

 

Good idea! I'll try it!

 

I now definatly agree with using a clay bar. The difference is night and day on a 4 year old car. I used the ClayMagic, and it worked very well.

 

I dont know if anyone mentioned this already (I dont want to read all 17 pages). I just bought the new Swifer dusters. WONDERFUL for the interior. It fits everywhere and picks up all the dust.

 

What speed setting do people use on their porter cable for use with a glaze? I'm thinking 3 or 4.

 

I use 5.5 for everything as recommended by Meguiars.

 

I use 3 or 4 for glazes and waxes. I apply with 4 and work up to 6 with swirl remover or polish.

 

esp if kev makes PrinzII and I mods

 

Can i use the buffer to apply swirl remover or do i need to do this step by hand?

 

Spread a thin bead of swirl remover around the pad. (cutting pad)

Spread the SMR over a small area on the car with the machine OFF.

Turn the machine on usually start with 3 or 4.

Work the product in with constant moderate pressure in overlapping motions.

Your paint may get hazy, don't panic.

Crank up the speed to 5, less pressure, give it a few good passes until you notice the product is getting dry and powdery.

Crank up the speed again and go over it lightly for a nice shine.

 

Thanks... i have tons of swirl marks and the car has only 3000 miles on it... i did car reconditioning for a summer a long time ago, but icouldn't remember if i used a rotary buffer for that part of the job.

 

I'd be careful with a rotary. An orbital on the other hand is pretty safe.