EDU: Detailing guide and how to wash and wax your car in an hour or less
#41
Hey Scott, Im just gonna jump in line with everybody else asking questions...
What is the best way to remove paint transfer marks? I bought my car a few months ago and the previous owner was obviously not the best in parking lots with this semi truck turning radius... I have marks on rear/front bumper and driver door... what would you recommend??
What is the best way to remove paint transfer marks? I bought my car a few months ago and the previous owner was obviously not the best in parking lots with this semi truck turning radius... I have marks on rear/front bumper and driver door... what would you recommend??
#42
I just purchased the Optimum no rinse and the optimum spay wax. The ONR worked great. Car got real clean, only took about 20-25 mins tops. The wax left residue on the hood, but think maybe because it was a little hot out, will try again tonight. Overall the max looks nice!!
#43
That's Mr. Detail to you
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Location: Arlington, TX
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i have a question too. i brought my car to get the inside detailed and he used product that i need to know of. i usually use armor all on my dash, witch i hate with a passion cause of the dirty residu and stickyness it leaves behind, and leather treatment that makes them all shiny and slippery. this guy didnt use these product and i wanted to know what to use to clean my inside. my dash and seats looks like it came out of the dealer. i hate the product i use and the question is pretty much, what should i use? thanks!!
#44
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Hey Scott, I need some advice for glass cleaning. It seems like no matter what I do I end up with streaks. During the day everything looks perfect, but then at night when the streetlights/other's headlights light up the windows, the glass looks like he11.
I've used regular Windex and most recently Stoner's. Tried applying with newspaper (old timer advice of newspaper with water/vinegar), cotton cloth, and microfiber cloth.
Any suggestions?
I've used regular Windex and most recently Stoner's. Tried applying with newspaper (old timer advice of newspaper with water/vinegar), cotton cloth, and microfiber cloth.
Any suggestions?
#46
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
Hey Scott, Im just gonna jump in line with everybody else asking questions...
What is the best way to remove paint transfer marks? I bought my car a few months ago and the previous owner was obviously not the best in parking lots with this semi truck turning radius... I have marks on rear/front bumper and driver door... what would you recommend??
What is the best way to remove paint transfer marks? I bought my car a few months ago and the previous owner was obviously not the best in parking lots with this semi truck turning radius... I have marks on rear/front bumper and driver door... what would you recommend??
#47
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
I just purchased the Optimum no rinse and the optimum spay wax. The ONR worked great. Car got real clean, only took about 20-25 mins tops. The wax left residue on the hood, but think maybe because it was a little hot out, will try again tonight. Overall the max looks nice!!
#48
Alright, Ill buy the scratchx I didnt realize a product like that would work for paint transers.. .thanx
I have another question(2part)if you dont mind:
part1: I have some tree sap/bug guts that are baked on the hood. I just removed the rock deflector and found them underneath... how do I get these off?
part2: I tried using goo-gone automotive cleaning spray gel... it didnt remove the sap/bugs but to make things worse it dried on my headlights and now they look like they got splooged all over and it will not come off. I tried a few cleaning products and a hell of a lot of elbow grease and my headlights look terrible.
what would you recommend for the baked on stuff? and what do you think I should try to remove the googone from my headlights?
I have another question(2part)if you dont mind:
part1: I have some tree sap/bug guts that are baked on the hood. I just removed the rock deflector and found them underneath... how do I get these off?
part2: I tried using goo-gone automotive cleaning spray gel... it didnt remove the sap/bugs but to make things worse it dried on my headlights and now they look like they got splooged all over and it will not come off. I tried a few cleaning products and a hell of a lot of elbow grease and my headlights look terrible.
what would you recommend for the baked on stuff? and what do you think I should try to remove the googone from my headlights?
#49
Hay marjen
If your problem is tar, try a product called "Goo Gone". Soak the corner of a rag and hold it on the spot for one full min. After soaking, put more Goo Gone on your rag and clean off the tar. Follow up by washing, polishing and waxing the area. By the way, it should say on your bottle of tar and bug remover something like "safe for all surfaces" or "Safe on clear coat" or other statements to indicate the same thing. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
If your problem is tar, try a product called "Goo Gone". Soak the corner of a rag and hold it on the spot for one full min. After soaking, put more Goo Gone on your rag and clean off the tar. Follow up by washing, polishing and waxing the area. By the way, it should say on your bottle of tar and bug remover something like "safe for all surfaces" or "Safe on clear coat" or other statements to indicate the same thing. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
Last edited by goodmike; 09-13-2009 at 10:17 AM.
#51
I just bought a used Maxima in June. However, the interior is filthy. Its gold leather interior really needs a good cleaning. What do you suggest I use?
I was thinking of using a steam cleaner on the door panels and dash (yeah thats how dirty). But I am scred if it wil cause the vinyl to rise up off the board.
Any tips?
Also, My leather seats are hard as rock. No rips just Hard! I tried Lexol but its still not soft. I heard about Mink oil, anybody have any experience?
I was thinking of using a steam cleaner on the door panels and dash (yeah thats how dirty). But I am scred if it wil cause the vinyl to rise up off the board.
Any tips?
Also, My leather seats are hard as rock. No rips just Hard! I tried Lexol but its still not soft. I heard about Mink oil, anybody have any experience?
#52
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
I just bought a used Maxima in June. However, the interior is filthy. Its gold leather interior really needs a good cleaning. What do you suggest I use?
I was thinking of using a steam cleaner on the door panels and dash (yeah thats how dirty). But I am scred if it wil cause the vinyl to rise up off the board.
Any tips?
Also, My leather seats are hard as rock. No rips just Hard! I tried Lexol but its still not soft. I heard about Mink oil, anybody have any experience?
I was thinking of using a steam cleaner on the door panels and dash (yeah thats how dirty). But I am scred if it wil cause the vinyl to rise up off the board.
Any tips?
Also, My leather seats are hard as rock. No rips just Hard! I tried Lexol but its still not soft. I heard about Mink oil, anybody have any experience?
#55
i've been using the car wash .. whcih i dont usually like but its been cold .. so today is finally warm.. well, mid 40's compared to mid 20s ..
i just bought some armor all wash/wax car shampoo ,, and a macquires detail spray..
i was going to buy the clay to do in between the wash and detail spray.. but wasnt sure if that would give me any added benefits?
in other words if i just do the wash and clay , is there any need to do the spray? or if i do the wash and spray , is hter any need for the clay?
i just bought some armor all wash/wax car shampoo ,, and a macquires detail spray..
i was going to buy the clay to do in between the wash and detail spray.. but wasnt sure if that would give me any added benefits?
in other words if i just do the wash and clay , is there any need to do the spray? or if i do the wash and spray , is hter any need for the clay?
Last edited by ranmax; 01-14-2010 at 08:29 AM.
#58
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
i've been using the car wash .. whcih i dont usually like but its been cold .. so today is finally warm.. well, mid 40's compared to mid 20s ..
i just bought some armor all wash/wax car shampoo ,, and a macquires detail spray..
i was going to buy the clay to do in between the wash and detail spray.. but wasnt sure if that would give me any added benefits?
in other words if i just do the wash and clay , is there any need to do the spray? or if i do the wash and spray , is hter any need for the clay?
i just bought some armor all wash/wax car shampoo ,, and a macquires detail spray..
i was going to buy the clay to do in between the wash and detail spray.. but wasnt sure if that would give me any added benefits?
in other words if i just do the wash and clay , is there any need to do the spray? or if i do the wash and spray , is hter any need for the clay?
#59
That's Mr. Detail to you
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iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
With Nissan/Infiniti, you usually have to keep up on the headlights after you restore them. I go over mine with a mild polish about every 60 days or so to keep them clear. The plastic over the headlights is just very susceptible to oxidation.
#60
Hey Scott, forgive me if Im not supposed to be answering questions directed at you... but I would recommend brasso for easy clearing of headlights. It worked great for me and a bunch of other people also swear by it. However, if you are going to use it make sure you dont get it on your paint... it is metal polish and is corrosive to the point it could probably wipe away your paint or smudge it up if you're not careful
#62
That's Mr. Detail to you
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Arlington, TX
Posts: 4,014
Hey Scott, forgive me if Im not supposed to be answering questions directed at you... but I would recommend brasso for easy clearing of headlights. It worked great for me and a bunch of other people also swear by it. However, if you are going to use it make sure you dont get it on your paint... it is metal polish and is corrosive to the point it could probably wipe away your paint or smudge it up if you're not careful
#71
ONR 3-in-1
A multi-purpose product that serves as a rinseless wash, a quick detailer, and a clay lubricant..
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html
http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html
#72
Wow, thanks for sharing that! This guide was a lifesaver for me. I actually just sold my used car to cash 4 cars, and before I did, I followed all the steps for washing and waxing in this guide. Guess what? I got a really good amount for my car! Huge thanks to this incredible guide! Did any of the steps in particular seem most helpful? Maybe the one-bucket wash method or a specific product they recommended? I'm always curious about what works best for other people. Anyway, I'm just so happy this guide came in handy and helped me get a good deal on my car. It just goes to show that putting a little extra effort into car care can really pay off!
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