Hey Scott, Im just gonna jump in line with everybody else asking questions...

What is the best way to remove paint transfer marks? I bought my car a few months ago and the previous owner was obviously not the best in parking lots with this semi truck turning radius... I have marks on rear/front bumper and driver door... what would you recommend??

 

I just purchased the Optimum no rinse and the optimum spay wax. The ONR worked great. Car got real clean, only took about 20-25 mins tops. The wax left residue on the hood, but think maybe because it was a little hot out, will try again tonight. Overall the max looks nice!!

 

He probably used something like Optimum Protectant Plus which leaves a satin shine instead of an oily shine. Meguiars Interior Quick Detailer leaves absolutely no shine but makes the interior surfaces look factory new.

 

Microfiber works better than newspaper. You just have to keep going over the glass until you get it clean, use the sun to check and go back over any streaks you see. I've been doing this full time for 15 years now and windows can still be a real PITA, especially if they aren't regularly cleaned.

 

#205 rocks! I used it both with my G110 (Meguiars DA buffer) and Dewalt 849 rotary.

 

I'd start with something like Meguiars ScratchX and a microfiber towel. Make sure you put some effort into it, you just wipe it on like a wax and it won't work. If the transfers are pretty thick, you may need something like Meguiars Ultimate Compound.

 

Make sure you shake it well too, even though it doesn't look like it seperates, sometimes the UV protection settles a bit. Heat can have an impact on how products work too, but working a smaller area (break the hood up into 4 sections) helps.

 

Alright, Ill buy the scratchx I didnt realize a product like that would work for paint transers.. .thanx

I have another question(2part)if you dont mind:

part1: I have some tree sap/bug guts that are baked on the hood. I just removed the rock deflector and found them underneath... how do I get these off?

part2: I tried using goo-gone automotive cleaning spray gel... it didnt remove the sap/bugs but to make things worse it dried on my headlights and now they look like they got splooged all over and it will not come off. I tried a few cleaning products and a hell of a lot of elbow grease and my headlights look terrible.

what would you recommend for the baked on stuff? and what do you think I should try to remove the googone from my headlights?

 

Hay marjen
If your problem is tar, try a product called "Goo Gone". Soak the corner of a rag and hold it on the spot for one full min. After soaking, put more Goo Gone on your rag and clean off the tar. Follow up by washing, polishing and waxing the area. By the way, it should say on your bottle of tar and bug remover something like "safe for all surfaces" or "Safe on clear coat" or other statements to indicate the same thing. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.

 

thanks!!

 

I just bought a used Maxima in June. However, the interior is filthy. Its gold leather interior really needs a good cleaning. What do you suggest I use?

I was thinking of using a steam cleaner on the door panels and dash (yeah thats how dirty). But I am scred if it wil cause the vinyl to rise up off the board.

Any tips?

Also, My leather seats are hard as rock. No rips just Hard! I tried Lexol but its still not soft. I heard about Mink oil, anybody have any experience?

 

I still use the Woolite HE/water solution at a 20:1 dilution (the HE version is more concentrated) to clean the leather. A steam cleaner should be fine for the vinyl surfaces. Leather Master's Leather Vital is meant for older leather, does a pretty good job softening it up-but it isn't a cure-all for a complete lack of care.

 

What about the roof liner? Can i use woolite on that too?

What about folex?

How should I go about cleaning it?

 

Yes but the best way is to spray down the towel and not the headliner, then wipe down the headliner.

 

i've been using the car wash .. whcih i dont usually like but its been cold .. so today is finally warm.. well, mid 40's compared to mid 20s ..

i just bought some armor all wash/wax car shampoo ,, and a macquires detail spray..

i was going to buy the clay to do in between the wash and detail spray.. but wasnt sure if that would give me any added benefits?

in other words if i just do the wash and clay , is there any need to do the spray? or if i do the wash and spray , is hter any need for the clay?

 

thanks for the guide

 

Scott, what about really hazed headlights?

Is there a permanent fix?

I hear some people say cleaning only lasts for a few months at most.

What should I use and how should I do it?

 

If you clay, you should rewax the car. You need to use the detail spray or you can make you own using 1.5 ounces of Optimum No Rinse per 32 ounces of water.

 

With Nissan/Infiniti, you usually have to keep up on the headlights after you restore them. I go over mine with a mild polish about every 60 days or so to keep them clear. The plastic over the headlights is just very susceptible to oxidation.

 

Hey Scott, forgive me if Im not supposed to be answering questions directed at you... but I would recommend brasso for easy clearing of headlights. It worked great for me and a bunch of other people also swear by it. However, if you are going to use it make sure you dont get it on your paint... it is metal polish and is corrosive to the point it could probably wipe away your paint or smudge it up if you're not careful

 

Thanks for the link. Great info.

B

 

Actually, metal polishes are effective headlight cleaners and are perfectly safe to use.

 

Is brasso used to clean Glass, Plastic or both headlight types?

 

Great guide, some nice tips I hadn't even considered!

 

i think that someone should video tape themselves washing their car in full

 

writing in text is cool

but seeing it is a whole new deal

 

is there like...a watered down version of this guide? to get not as good results, but requiring not as much supplies/money lol

 

Scott great thread I always did my tires last knowing it was a pain in the *** lol.. i was just to lazy to try the other method first i will now tho..

 

That's why I have my youtube links in the first post...

 

Just using the Optimum No Rinse and either Optimum Car Wax or Opti-Seal is about as easy as it gets.

 

A multi-purpose product that serves as a rinseless wash, a quick detailer, and a clay lubricant..

http://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse.html

 

Wow, thanks for sharing that! This guide was a lifesaver for me. I actually just sold my used car to cash 4 cars, and before I did, I followed all the steps for washing and waxing in this guide. Guess what? I got a really good amount for my car! Huge thanks to this incredible guide! Did any of the steps in particular seem most helpful? Maybe the one-bucket wash method or a specific product they recommended? I'm always curious about what works best for other people. Anyway, I'm just so happy this guide came in handy and helped me get a good deal on my car. It just goes to show that putting a little extra effort into car care can really pay off!