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polishing underhood metals (intake mani's)

Old Feb 27, 2009 | 06:17 PM
  #1  
Kountz430's Avatar
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polishing underhood metals (intake mani's)

Hey fellas i looking to polish my intake manifold on my 90 & 94 what chemicals and tools do need to get the job done i was thinking about blue magic. then i thought about jewlers rogue, < (ruge) i remember seeing guys at the truckstop using that stuff to buff tanks, bezels and wheels pretty much any chrome and aluminum they'd use it on.(i used to be a trucker)But i cant find it anywhere. i need something to cut through the oxidation and something to bring up the shine. i wanna have the chrome look without the chrome price and not have to remove the i.t.m from the car dont yell at me the engine is nowclean
Old Feb 27, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #2  
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steel wool!
Old Feb 27, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by Stormzusmc
steel wool!
That plus aluminum polish. And a lot of time and patience.
Old Feb 28, 2009 | 08:06 AM
  #4  
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any pnuematic tools to speed up the process or will doin it by hand yield better results plus im planning on chroming some smaller piece's im trying to get my 90 ready for maxus luckly i have a parts car that i can pluck parts and still let the wife drive the 90 or the j30 while i d.d. the 94
Old Feb 28, 2009 | 09:31 AM
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Hey Kountz430, after trying zillion way over many years, I found the cross buff to be the best to start with if the parts is not to rusty, they will de-burr any parts wether it's casting, fuel rail or valve cover. if the parts is really rusty, sandblasting the parts will save you hours of works. For the cross buff you will need either a high speed drill or an air tool.

I prefer the air tool since they are lighter to carry and will draw less fatigue when working long hours, but the high speed drill has more torque for casting part, like spindle, wheel hub etc. Make sure to wear eye protection, as small particule will fly away and can easily injured your eyes, trust me been there done that, dont take short cut and your work will be awesome and you'll be safe.

Start with a rougher cross buff like the blue one and then smooth it out with the red one.

There is many place that sell those like here: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...e&kw=STD265008

or here: http://www.americanbuff.com/productdetail.asp?id=1006

Then if you really want to make a pro job you need to buy a polishing kit, found here: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html

If you dont want to spend much money on a buffer, buy a 3/4 or 1 HP bench grinder ( I got one at Canadian Tire for 69$CDN wich is about 40$ US ) I'm sure you guys have similar place to buy cheap in the US ) a good suggestion is to also order 2 shaft extender from Caswell: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/shaft.htm

Those will extend the bench grinder shaft to a wider stance and it will make it easier to polish bigger parts like a valve cover.


At last when you polish with compound get ready to get dirty so wearing the proper clothing is the way to go, if you follow some of my advice you'll achieve awesome result, but it's not a job for the faint at heart, so be ready to work long hours and you will get incredible result.

Good luck and feel free to contact me for any questions, I'd be more than happy to share my passion with you.

Best regards from Canada.


AA
Old Feb 28, 2009 | 02:54 PM
  #6  
Kountz430's Avatar
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bald aggression est 78
 
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Originally Posted by doublea
Hey Kountz430, after trying zillion way over many years, I found the cross buff to be the best to start with if the parts is not to rusty, they will de-burr any parts wether it's casting, fuel rail or valve cover. if the parts is really rusty, sandblasting the parts will save you hours of works. For the cross buff you will need either a high speed drill or an air tool.

I prefer the air tool since they are lighter to carry and will draw less fatigue when working long hours, but the high speed drill has more torque for casting part, like spindle, wheel hub etc. Make sure to wear eye protection, as small particule will fly away and can easily injured your eyes, trust me been there done that, dont take short cut and your work will be awesome and you'll be safe.

Start with a rougher cross buff like the blue one and then smooth it out with the red one.

There is many place that sell those like here: http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...e&kw=STD265008

or here: http://www.americanbuff.com/productdetail.asp?id=1006

Then if you really want to make a pro job you need to buy a polishing kit, found here: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/index.html

If you dont want to spend much money on a buffer, buy a 3/4 or 1 HP bench grinder ( I got one at Canadian Tire for 69$CDN wich is about 40$ US ) I'm sure you guys have similar place to buy cheap in the US ) a good suggestion is to also order 2 shaft extender from Caswell: http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/shaft.htm

Those will extend the bench grinder shaft to a wider stance and it will make it easier to polish bigger parts like a valve cover.


At last when you polish with compound get ready to get dirty so wearing the proper clothing is the way to go, if you follow some of my advice you'll achieve awesome result, but it's not a job for the faint at heart, so be ready to work long hours and you will get incredible result.

Good luck and feel free to contact me for any questions, I'd be more than happy to share my passion with you.

Best regards from Canada.


AA
can that be stickied for those of us that like to polish things pleeeeeze do use the polish with cross buffer or c/b then polish

Last edited by Kountz430; Feb 28, 2009 at 03:39 PM.
Old Mar 1, 2009 | 05:54 AM
  #7  
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You would have to use a rough cross buff ( like the blue ) to remove all the oxydation, rust, dirts, then you smooth it out with the red cross buff and the final step is to polish with the compound. You can do a 2 or 3 step polishing with the compound, I like to use the black emery compound to start with, it save a lot of polishing time, after that step it all depend what metal you are polishing but if you follow Caswell chart you cant go wrong.
Old Mar 1, 2009 | 05:56 AM
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BTW, every time you use a different compound you need to change the buffer wheel, otherwise you will contaminate your buffer wheel.
Old Mar 4, 2009 | 06:45 PM
  #9  
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I still drive a truck there Kountz430 and the other day I took some never dull to the wheels( they have never been touched) and rubbed with little pressure and the rubbed it with mothere metal polish, WOW so easy I'll take pics and show you.
Old Mar 8, 2009 | 09:18 PM
  #10  
Kountz430's Avatar
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bald aggression est 78
 
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Originally Posted by maxed98
I still drive a truck there Kountz430 and the other day I took some never dull to the wheels( they have never been touched) and rubbed with little pressure and the rubbed it with mothere metal polish, WOW so easy I'll take pics and show you.
oh yeah just rub it in lol i aint been out in bout 5yrs trying to get back out. but freight is slow i've been hearing that alot lately you know its bad when schneider tells you that they have no openings but yeah post them pics lets see that rig
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