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Remove headlight oxidation

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Old May 17, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #1  
Kevlo911's Avatar
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Remove headlight oxidation

I tired the Turtle wax kit and it sucked ***.

So I went back to the good ole sanding method but it doesn't last long so I found this:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...lant-idea.html

Anyone try it? I know the Turtlewax kit came with a sealant, it got washed off by the rain in 2 days

Any other UV sealants you guys have tried?
Old May 19, 2010 | 08:59 PM
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apparently any sealant should do the trick. i have klasse and tried that as some suggested on autogeek.
once you sand you remove any protectant, although factory protectant only lasts about 5 years anyway.

i got meguires plastiX which worked pretty good and is supposed to protect them. but i think i need to lightly sand to get the rest off.

oh that thread says Plexus protects as well? i love that stuff on my interior plastic. i'll have to apply it more often.
Old May 19, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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Is there a way to prevent oxidation in the first place?
Old May 20, 2010 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by NismoMax80
apparently any sealant should do the trick. i have klasse and tried that as some suggested on autogeek.
once you sand you remove any protectant, although factory protectant only lasts about 5 years anyway.

i got meguires plastiX which worked pretty good and is supposed to protect them. but i think i need to lightly sand to get the rest off.

oh that thread says Plexus protects as well? i love that stuff on my interior plastic. i'll have to apply it more often.
Yeah on our G I did the Klasse treatment and they look brand new. But the Mazda, one headlight is nasty looking. I sanded it but I am gonna sand it more with some 1000 and 2000, then I guess I will try some PlastiX since I already have some.
Old May 20, 2010 | 09:28 AM
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Brasso, rubbing compound, aluminum polish and wax. Do this once every 2 months and my lenses look brand new.
Old May 23, 2010 | 11:57 AM
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Orange polishing pad with Menzerna's Intensive polish if they're dreadful and then a sealant of some kind or a white pad with Autoglyms Super Resin Polish. I prefer the SRP just cause it's quick and easy and it's an AIO with protection properties. I do it every year because it seems that these plastic headlights just won't stay clear. It's a quick buff so no big deal though.
Old May 25, 2010 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by ABlackSER
Is there a way to prevent oxidation in the first place?
apply a sealant monthly.

i need a flippin list of monthly sht to do.
Old May 25, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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my bro just got a 01 G20 and his headlights were nasty yellow.. i sanded with 1500 then moved to 2500. sanded in circular motions washed dryed then took a cutting wool pad with 3m rubbing compound then a polish pad using 3m finishing material. came out looking brand new!!

any car polish will work the key is to use electric polisher. the 3m finishing material last a long time. i use it when i sand out orange peel and leaves a good protecting layer.
Old May 26, 2010 | 04:41 AM
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nice looking wheel you got there.
Old Jun 19, 2010 | 10:20 AM
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walmart sell a headlight restoration kit for $20.00 it works great,
I got 2 sets of headlights out of it, and it comes with an acrilic coating
to prevent future oxidation.

if its not too bad, some cotton buds and white vinegar.
Old Jun 21, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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Just wanted to add my experience here. I tried the Mother's Powerball 4 lights restoration kit. Kragen's had them on sale for $18 and included a 2nd bottle of the plasticx polish. Overall I would not recommend this kit but let me explain way.

My headlights were in okay shape, but both had the hazing/frosting along the edge of the top of the light and one light also had some tar like substance that would not come off with any tar removal cleaners. It seems to me that the hazing is due to particulate matter rubbing the edge of the light. Sanding is the right way to go.

Unfortunately I started with the better condition light. I should have spent a lot more time on the sanding - I spent about 15 minutes total. The instructions say that each of the 4 passes needs to be longer so you would need probably 30 minutes or more depending on the initial damage. The kit comes with tiny (2"x2") pads and they are just too hard to use for long periods of time. I can still see some minor scratching on the one light that I will need to go back over. On the other light I restricted the sanding to only the affected areas. This is not as easy as it sounds but in this case the small pads made that job easier to do. The second light turned out better.

The other aspect that didn't work so well was the use of the powerball attachment for your drill. On a flat surface its easy to control but on curved edges it was very hard to control and tended to spin away. Also because of the curved head you had to use very small amounts of the polish or it would splatter with any kind of speed of the drill.

I just bought the 3M kit for $20 ($3 rebate). The drill attachment is flat so the control should be better although harder in rounded corners. It also comes with sanding disks for the drill so the issue of more sanding time should be much easier. I'm going to wait a week or two before trying it to see if I can fix up the one headlight that needs the attention.

Hope this helps.
Old Jun 21, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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What's the cost of replacing the lenses altogether?
Old Jun 23, 2010 | 03:55 PM
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an easy $100 for some cheap Ebay stuff. Both of these methonds VVVVVVVVVVVVV have never failed me

for plasic: some sort of orbital (buffer, powerball, etc), rubbing compound, polishing compound, plastx, wax

glass: start off with some 2000grit wet sand paper, then some sort of orbital (buffer, powerball, etc), rubbing compound, polishing compound, plastx, wax
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 08:05 AM
  #14  
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Honda Civic Using Meguair Ultimate Compound $10 from Walmart and drill with $5 buffer attachment

From This





To This:





Using This:
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 01:06 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by sontakke
Honda Civic Using Meguair Ultimate Compound $10 from Walmart and drill with $5 buffer attachment
dont forget to follow up with a sealant or at least wax as often as your paint, or they will re-oxidize.
Old Jun 24, 2010 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by NismoMax80
dont forget to follow up with a sealant or at least wax as often as your paint, or they will re-oxidize.
+1. Fine job btw. Looks great.
Old Jun 25, 2010 | 07:57 AM
  #17  
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It is NOT my car. I had bought some ebay headlight cleaner. My headlights are quite respectable and that ebay cleaner did not bring the "bling" out on mine. So I thought I would find some beat up lights in my office parking lot and found the coworker's car!

The first headlight I did was with the ebay cleaner which I did by hand. For the other headlight I decided to try Ultimate Compound and cordless drill. Both came out good but the UC/drill was easier and lot cheaper. I paid $7 for tiny vial of ebay cleaner whereas the big UC bottle is under $10 from local Walmart and will last you a long time even after polishing entire car or two.

In general I am sold on UC. It is almost as good as M105 and locally available.

- Vikas
Old Jun 27, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #18  
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gotta try the meguair's ultimate: impressive pix!
Old Jul 4, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #19  
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I've used the 3m headlight restoration kit, and it worked great...easy to use, took about an hour to finish both sides...$20 @ walmart
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