Im going to put in as much of the info as I have, this dyno is done in kw's and looks much different than the ones you guys are posting. Maybe someone could help in the conversions to figure out what I am looking at. I asked for a 4th gear dyno but they do 3rd gear pulls. So let 3rd gear it was.
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1997 Nissan Maxima SE (5 speed manual) 160,000 miles
Mod List:
K&N Filter/Frankencar midpipe
Cattman Headers
Cattman Catback
Technosquare Ecu
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Exedy Racing Clutch ( Stage 1 )
Service Engine Light Codes at time of run:
01-04 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
04-01 - Intake Air Temp Sensor
(* note - for 8-12 months I have had the front o2 sensor code but have no idea why it isnt showing up anymore. And the same with the rear o2 sensor, its not even plugged up but im not getting a code, and the egr code but its not showing up anymore either and I havent had any of them replaced. So no idea why they are not showing up anymore.)
Conditions
Date: 09/24/05
City: Palmerston North
Test Gear: 3rd
Ramp Rate: 10
Lead Time: 10
Air Temp: 18 C/64.4 F
Rel. Humidity: 60%
Air Pressure: 1008mb
Baro. Pressure: 30.00
Elevation: ?
Correction Factor: 0.979 (SAE)
Dyno Chart:

Dyno Video - Made 2 pulls with the same outcome 136.2kw
Right Click Save As - Link Below
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/dynotest.wmv
Thoughts: Well honestly im not sure what im looking at just yet. I hope to get some help here with conversions and thoughts. Not sure what torque numbers I have? The guy said the car is running rich but again I dont know what im looking at on the dyno chart. So im hoping some of you guys can take a look, do some conversions and tell me how the car did. Looks like im around 182 fwhp.
--
1997 Nissan Maxima SE (5 speed manual) 160,000 miles
Mod List:
K&N Filter/Frankencar midpipe
Cattman Headers
Cattman Catback
Technosquare Ecu
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Exedy Racing Clutch ( Stage 1 )
Service Engine Light Codes at time of run:
01-04 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
04-01 - Intake Air Temp Sensor
(* note - for 8-12 months I have had the front o2 sensor code but have no idea why it isnt showing up anymore. And the same with the rear o2 sensor, its not even plugged up but im not getting a code, and the egr code but its not showing up anymore either and I havent had any of them replaced. So no idea why they are not showing up anymore.)
Conditions
Date: 09/24/05
City: Palmerston North
Test Gear: 3rd
Ramp Rate: 10
Lead Time: 10
Air Temp: 18 C/64.4 F
Rel. Humidity: 60%
Air Pressure: 1008mb
Baro. Pressure: 30.00
Elevation: ?
Correction Factor: 0.979 (SAE)
Dyno Chart:

Dyno Video - Made 2 pulls with the same outcome 136.2kw
Right Click Save As - Link Below
http://www.ceasarschariot.net/dynotest.wmv
Thoughts: Well honestly im not sure what im looking at just yet. I hope to get some help here with conversions and thoughts. Not sure what torque numbers I have? The guy said the car is running rich but again I dont know what im looking at on the dyno chart. So im hoping some of you guys can take a look, do some conversions and tell me how the car did. Looks like im around 182 fwhp.
Well I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I calculated HP to be about 185fwhp, but I can't figure out the torque. It just doesn't make sense because ~550 Nm is equal to 407 lb-ft of torque. So unless your car is a 7 liter turbo diesel, I kind of doubt you're car is making 407 lb-ft to the wheels in 3rd. I thought it might have something to do with the gear ratios and some sort of additional calculating, but that doesn't work either. The curves look correct though. The torque curve looks very healthy and steady.
The 3rd gear ratio is roughly 3.82X1.27 = 4.85
81mph = ~130 kmh = 5200rpms = your HP peak = normal for a VQ without the VI.
All in all, I think your VQ is running pretty strong. I wouldn't put much faith into A/F sniffer. Those systems are rather inconsistent and sometimes can read a solid one point too low. Ideally, you want to be in the upper 12s/lower 13s as you approach redline.
If you're getting decent MPGs, I wouldn't worry about it much.
The 3rd gear ratio is roughly 3.82X1.27 = 4.85
81mph = ~130 kmh = 5200rpms = your HP peak = normal for a VQ without the VI.
All in all, I think your VQ is running pretty strong. I wouldn't put much faith into A/F sniffer. Those systems are rather inconsistent and sometimes can read a solid one point too low. Ideally, you want to be in the upper 12s/lower 13s as you approach redline.
If you're getting decent MPGs, I wouldn't worry about it much.
well all i really have to go on is the exhaust smells like gas, lol ! and the car does burn up the fuel quick. i just dont know about a/f and if mine was showing it was running real rich. again didnt want to drop all the money for new 02 sensors and air intake temp sensor for a minimal change. Also didnt know if this is why people buy the safc-II to make change to the a/f ?
also did the dyno using BP Ultimate 98 octane, and dave when racing in 3 gear in the chariot shift to 4th at 81 mph right !! lol !
thanks for taking the time to explain some of this, i really wish i could have used what most others use back home and done the dyno in 4th. and as for as the nm to torque conversion im having no luck either trying to make any sense out of it.
also did the dyno using BP Ultimate 98 octane, and dave when racing in 3 gear in the chariot shift to 4th at 81 mph right !! lol !
thanks for taking the time to explain some of this, i really wish i could have used what most others use back home and done the dyno in 4th. and as for as the nm to torque conversion im having no luck either trying to make any sense out of it.
I'd definitely get IAT checked out. I don't have the FSM anymore, but there is a way to test it in hot water and a voltmeter. Without a properly fuctioning IAT, the car will run rich. That's a given. If the IAT is the cause of the rich A/F, then there's probably another 10whp in the car.
Don't get too caught up worrying about dynoing in 3rd gear. On a Dynojet, there is very little measureable difference between 3rd and 4th.
FYI 98 octane fuel in New Zealand is the same as 92 octane in the US. The US uses both the Motor Octane Test (MON) and the Research Octane Test (RON) to determine octane. Quoted octane in the US is an average of both tests. That's why you see "87 octane MON/RON". Most other countries tend to use just the RON test therefore the octanes are higher. Overall, the RON number will be about 6-7 points higher than the MON/RON octane number even though both fuel offer the same octane.
Don't get too caught up worrying about dynoing in 3rd gear. On a Dynojet, there is very little measureable difference between 3rd and 4th.
FYI 98 octane fuel in New Zealand is the same as 92 octane in the US. The US uses both the Motor Octane Test (MON) and the Research Octane Test (RON) to determine octane. Quoted octane in the US is an average of both tests. That's why you see "87 octane MON/RON". Most other countries tend to use just the RON test therefore the octanes are higher. Overall, the RON number will be about 6-7 points higher than the MON/RON octane number even though both fuel offer the same octane.
dave thanks again, as for as IAT, there is not one even on the car, just an empty plug, it was stolen along with a bunch of other things awhile back. will work on replacing that.
Dave B can you check my formula.
Original formula to calculate Horsepower -
(Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower
Rearranged: T = HP x 5252 / Engine Speed
I worked out this:
T = 185 x 5252 / 5000rpm (using a guess at what I think car would run at)
T = 194.324
Does this look right to you ?
Ceasars wife
Original formula to calculate Horsepower -
(Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower
Rearranged: T = HP x 5252 / Engine Speed
I worked out this:
T = 185 x 5252 / 5000rpm (using a guess at what I think car would run at)
T = 194.324
Does this look right to you ?
Ceasars wife
Quote:
Original formula to calculate Horsepower -
(Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower
Rearranged: T = HP x 5252 / Engine Speed
I worked out this:
T = 185 x 5252 / 5000rpm (using a guess at what I think car would run at)
T = 194.324
Does this look right to you ?
Ceasars wife
Damn, that's it!!!!! For your mods, those numbers are on the upper end of the scale. They're not extremely high, but they're solid and your car's 1/4 mile shows that it makes use of all that power. You should be happy. Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
Dave B can you check my formula. Original formula to calculate Horsepower -
(Torque x Engine speed) / 5,252 = Horsepower
Rearranged: T = HP x 5252 / Engine Speed
I worked out this:
T = 185 x 5252 / 5000rpm (using a guess at what I think car would run at)
T = 194.324
Does this look right to you ?
Ceasars wife
Fix that IAT and maybe your numbers could boost up another 5-10whp/wtq or so. The IAT sensor with harness is only about $40.
Quote:
He has cattman headers, they already have a y pipe.Originally Posted by konak85
what, no Y-pipe? Get a Y, maybe you'll be around 195-200whp. Nice run.
What is the final conversion? 185whp and ~194wtq. Nice Numbers for being without a VI. You should try to use the MEVI with the NZ ECU and see how that works. Hurricanes suck.....
spig remember the maxima ecu has a different plug in, and i would have no idea on how to rewire, to bad its not plug and play ! we need to have a maxima meet here so i can inspect all the different cars/versions and stuff.
hey when converting kilowatts to horsepower, do you use horsepower international which is 182 fwhp or horsepower metric which would be 185 fwhp ? not sure which to use in final calculations before submitting my dyno results.
see: www.onlineconversion.com i have been using international ?
see: www.onlineconversion.com i have been using international ?
Ceasar I believe international is used for the numbers... the official numbers for the Maxima are 142 kW (190hp) so that works out to 1 kW = 1.341 hp, which if you run your numbers through that formula gives you 182 fwhp. (Sorry I'm sure you'd like the higher number...) 

Quote:
According to my 1996 FSM the IAT sensor is not directly used to control the engine system. It's used for diagnostics only.Originally Posted by Dave B
I'd definitely get IAT checked out. I don't have the FSM anymore, but there is a way to test it in hot water and a voltmeter. Without a properly fuctioning IAT, the car will run rich. That's a given. If the IAT is the cause of the rich A/F, then there's probably another 10whp in the car.

