I just got my car dynoed this past Saturday. I don't have the run files but the Humidity was 100% given that it was raining and about 82 degrees.



I have Stillen Pop Charger, Warpspeed Y-pipe, 00VI, and VAFC-II.

 

Seems kinda low considering your mods.

 

I know. It was done on a dyno-jet at T&R racing in Queens. The car feels strong, but I know I need to make more corrections with the A/F.

I have no codes either.

 

Talk about going lean in that 5k range.

 

The technician was telling me at what RPM to make leaner. I think my A/F readings are not real accurate. I'm going to get a Wideband 02 for accuracy and a catback. I have a feeling that my EGR and EGT is keeping my A/F ratio very rich. I think I was making corrections up -8 on the VAFC-II. Is that normal?

 

You should be much higher than that with your mods. I'm no tuning expert, though, or a dyno expert...so I'll leave that to others.

 

The dyno is low, and the CF is SAE... so that in theory rules out the high humidity.

The runfiles would be nice to see the A/F curve on a higher resolution.

Also, how's the KS, is the car running as good as it should? I realize you said it felt strong, but that could be because you're used to it 'feeling' that way and may not be missing the power you have lost over time (NOT mileage but dead sensors etc)

Tell the operator not be a and take it to fuel cut next time.

 

I don't have any codes for a knock sensor. My Mileage has been great so the power loss has never been evident. The technician just stopped as soon as it hit red line he didn't even let it bounce off.

 

The tach is off, because you still had ~300 RPM left.

 

VI switch over should be around 4800-4900. You need to play with the VAFC more. Do you have the stock cat? where was the wideband?

 

Yea I have the Stock Cat. They used a tailpipe sniffer for A/F ratio monitoring. My High Cam switch over is at 4800 RPM.

 

The stock cat throws off AF readings. So you might wanna do something about that.

 

I thought it would. Right now I'm holding off on the power mods until next year. Need to work on the suspension and big brake kit. Than back to power mods.

 

... What other 'power' mods did you have in mind?

 

Headers, catback (which is not big HP) and 3.5 cams. That's for the near future.

 

well the torque dosnt look that bad, could be higher. i got 167whp and 170wtq without the 00vi. with tuning with ur vafc and 00vi. you should defently be higher than that.

 

I had 201tq

 

Didn't you have SMT-6?...

 

Somethings wrong with your car. I dynoed at 170hp with a ypipe and high flow cat. Not sure what it could be but its something.

 

 

For real Kevlo, it's like me dynoing and posting i got a stock 5th gen max

cound they have used a wrong Correction Factor?

 

CF = SAE.. what we all use.

 

Hey I'm not crazy about the dyno. I will just continue to do my thing and look into tuning and additional mods. Maybe next time I'll try a better dyno shop. I understand that alot of factors come into play so its no big deal.

 

That's all you had when you dynoed. Your auto or manual?

 

Yup thats it. Yes I'm an auto. There was an auto 5th gen there when I dynoed and got 175hp with one or 2 more mods than me.

 

Well then the auto's VIAS was clearly f*cked. He dynoed an extra 5HP with the two mods, because he's pretty much got the same engine as you without that intake opening up. It doesn't have anything to do with your car responding well to the mods.

 

How can you accurately read AF with a stock cat on a dyno?

 

I thought you had to weld a bung hole in to your piping before the cat and screw sensor in there when dynoing

 

The dyno place used an exhaust sniffer to get reading of the A/F. Since I have a stock cat, it somewhat restricted my exhaust flow as well as providing not so accurate A/F ratio readings.

 

lssexhasust sells a bunged test pipe for ~30 USD.