I think that you might be approaching this the wrong way. Your timing problem cannot be corrected electronically, it's a hardware issue (i.e. timing teeth / jumped /installed incorrectly etc.)

Correct me if I'm wrong nismology.

 

you are right, but i really want to hook up the consult II jsut to make sure 100% via a nissan scan toll that the timing is what is the problem. once i hae it on paper from a nissan tech, im going to go back to the place where the cams were done with proof and get it all straigtened out.

 

^ I like your thinking. Leave no room for doubt as to what the root cause is.

 

I agree it definitely seems to be mechanical not electronic. This is why you use zip ties when you do cams. That way you never skip any teeth and mess your timing up.

 

That wouldn't help in this case. The chain needs to be removed from the gears and as a result the motor must be retimed.

 

Why? If the dowl pins are lined up with the sprockets you don't loose your timing? I don't know thats how I did it on my sr20 motor. jwt even recommends it.

Never did cams on a 3.0, so maybe things are different, but the basic principals should be the same...a dohc is a dohc the V just has 2 more cam's

Please explain

thanks

 

The main intake sprockets must be removed completely for 3 reasons:

1. It allows for access to the secondary intake sprocket/secondary chain which also need to be removed.

2. It allows for sufficient clearance for the rear timing cover to be removed.

3. Even if the first two reasons weren't true, a chain does not allow for sufficient axial movement to be able to clear the cams. This is especially true when you consider the fact that the water pump is chain-driven. It's pretty hard to bend.......


Hope this helps you understand why the chains and gears must be removed completely.

 

Ok I get it now. Its alot harder then my sr20 motor. Now I see why people don't put cams in

thanks

 

People don't put cams in because people are cheap.

 

Update .. the guy who did my cams has closed down the shop. I went there today and it was closed the shop next door said he is gone. **** !

 

Well, that's obviously not cool. Got a receipt / any tracking information?

 

Or poor, or lazy

 

that really suxs. So what are you going to do? Did you confirm that the timing is off?

 

dayumm thats messed up, i plan on installing cams too but they seem a lil too hard for me to do myself

 

Yes i confirmed the timing is WAYY off.. but via the snap on computer.. i jsut wanted to do it with the nissan consult II for the guy at the shop, but since hes now gone... DAMN !

Im in the process of buying a new timing chain plus the tensioner, and having a certifred nissan master tech put on a new timing chain etc, this will correct the problem he said he will also take a look at the cams, hes a little expensie but worth it, job is costing close to $700 part and labor. After that the EU will be installed and the car will be dyno tunned on a dynojet at RIPP Mods in staten island. This is going to be a 2 month process.

 

Great plan.

Curious as to why you would want a new chain put in?

 

Ive been told by a alot of people that it would be a good idea to install a new chain and tensioner while the mechanic is in there, since over time they do stretch , if im goign to spend that much might as well spend a couple more and get new stuff in there, for peace of mind.

 

Good logic, since you probably wont be in there for quite a while. I'm not sure how much of an affect it would have on cam timing in the looooooong run, but like I say, good logic in any case.

 

any updates, Q?

 

Yes sir..

Finally got the TiminG done... new everyTHING.. lol.

Checked with Consult II timing is on point at 15.

Car does pull alot harder... but my AF is all wacky...Via tthe AEM Ugeo .

I was tunning it my self driving up and down the freeway.... for some reaon the car pulls the hardest when the afr is at like 12.5ish.... the leaner i go like 13.5 it doesnt pull as hard ...

So whats the most HP making AF spec on these cars ?

BTW the car pull hard all the way to redline and feels like it wants to go alot further and pull harder but then that 6.6k limiter kicks in ARRRrr

 

For me it was 13.0 to 1 N/A. Every car will be a little different. Congrats on getting it fixed, time to fix the rev-limiter now.

 

nice to see everything worked out, sucks that it cost you so much but I am sure this thread will help alot of org members who are probably having the same problem but just afraid to admit it

 

well thats good homie, now i feel better about getting cams. I was gonna have my tech install them while my motor is out

 

For me anywhere from 12.8,12.9 to 13.1 AFR or so gives best power. And I know what you mean about the rev-limiter. After what I saw on the dyno this morning, I sure wish I could go up to 8000 rpm instead of staying around 75/7600 or so (self imposed). If only the bottom end (ie oil pump) would take it.. (But it's not worth the time/money on the DEK at this point to do the work to allow it to go to 8k reliably)

 

...Debatable.

 

hehe yes well let me clarify... "not worth it when you have a serious 3.5 project already moving full steam ahead and waiting in the wings"

 

glad u got the car fixed.....we gotta link up man

 

thanks.... just saving up a lil to get the eu and tune.. the tune shop said it shoudl make most power at 13.5 .. i said thats jsut to high... i wanna tune at 12.8 at WOT...

Also i have this problem when in a hight gear at low RPMS if i give it 1.2 throttle the car leans out ALOT and starts to bog down... the afr jumps to 17+ if i WOT itll go normal if i let off a little itll go normal again..wtf lol....

Damn i need a tunee

 

^ add fuel to your NEO on norroe throttle at lowest RPM

 

Who said he had a NEO?

 

The EU and VQ35 ECU's don't like to play nice, from what I've seen. Save up for a UTEC or maybe look into the Cobb Accessport's compatibility with maxima ECU's.

 

If you go the UTEC route check my350z for a good deal. Theres always someone parting out their Z's.

 

i have the neo in my car but its untunned.

I have the Emanage ultimate sitting in my room , just waiting for it to go in, the guy im goign to said hes done it on a 03 maxima b4 and it worked beautiful... hes also a authorized dealer and installed for greddy EU... lets see how this works out .

 

Tell me before u go there...I'll get the hookup.

Like I said...I'm happy ...he's the man

 

Gladly waiting on dyno#'s after tune.....

Yeah.... Im considering having him install one too. The safcII was enough wiring 4 me.lol. Can I get the hookup

 

PM me...

 

About time somebody else did some cams in a 3.5 Ive been having a similar problem. I blew a motor due to oil consumption. while replacing it, had the cams installed. JDM not jwt (don't have that kind of money) Currently running Cams, hotshot headers, and jwt flywheel which were put in at the same time. got the car back and it ran like crap. came to find out(not sure of the proper name) solenoids that control the rpm switch on the timing cover went bad. replaced them and the car ran better. but was never satisfied with the results. checked my timing with a cipher and it said my base timing was at 10-12 deg. it would not advance my timing either. checked it with my girls car(02 max) her timing was at the normal 15 deg. puzzled me a little. my buddy also had the same cams, installed them and he was having the same hesitation problems i was. we swapped out the solenoids and his problem didn't go away. took the motor apart and come to find out his timing tensioner was bad. it would loosen to the point the timing would jump a tooth. but the car would haul *** until the tooth jumped. then the check engine light would come on and the car would run like crap. im still trying to find out where the rest of my timing is also lol. i think im about to try replacing the crank pos sensor. i need to fix my problem also. i currently have no afc on my car anymore but my last track visit i ran back to back 13.5's. So i know if i can get my timing up to 15-17deg i would be satisfied. I hope u figure it out..

 

wow, didn't see the second page. so what did the guy say the problem was?

 

Seems as if the problem wasn't ever narrowed down. It pulls hard now after new timing equipment (mechanical). Post # 60.

Currently, there are 7 people on here that I know with a 3.5L and cams. Only 3 that I know of with an A33B w/ cams.

 

4.5 gens don't count. half of them can't get there swaps to run let alone cams. im actually having the same timing problem and wanted to know if the timing equipment did it or did the tech do something. thats about 400 bucks for just the equipment so i want to be sure that fixed it.