Dyno - cammed DEK!! ruh roh
Dyno - cammed DEK!! ruh roh
*Warning* - long post... oh, and some 3.5 swappers may flip out after reading this... 
J/K
So I got on the dyno this morning to finish up my tuning on the cammed DEK, seeing as I'm heading to the track tomorrow for one last hurrah with the 3L to hopefully beat my PB with it before putting the 3.5 in. So obviously I wanted it running and tuned up in top notch shape for tomorrow.
Anyways, I started off with just a straight baseline pull to see where it was at, and it put down about 246 whp. But viewing the loggers I could see it needed some tuning, so after 10-12 pulls and a bunch of playing with fuel and ignition timing I had it running up around 263 whp. Once I optimized it at that level then it was time to open the cutout and make some noise! I did so and after a little more tweaking I just about hit 270 whp at 7500 rpm, actually it came out as 269.87.
So it goes without saying I'm happy with that. Interestingly enough, the modeling I'd done before building the engine predicted around 275 whp at 7700 rpm, and I was skeptical at the time that it was accurate (never fully trust software lol), but hey the program was just about bang on. It does require meticulously measuring and inputing data to get that close though.
So below I've posted 2 graphs, the first one is the best run from today, and the second is just a fun comparison with my 220whp run from 2005 (with stock DE cams and 00VI). The cams have obviously shifted the power band as one would expect, although I have changed more than just cams between the 2005 dyno to now.
You'll notice the dip in the first graph at 6500 rpms, that spans approximately 200 rpms - that unfortunately is unavoidable and is due to the EU adding fuel to get past the stock limiter. There is a momentary rich spike that drops out the power for a split second, but keep in mind that 200 rpms goes by VERY quickly, especially in the lower gears and is almost unnoticeable in the car. It looks big and ugly on the DJ graph, but in reality affects the performance of the car barely at all. I can positively say that the car pulls pretty smoothly through that area, even in 3rd and 4th gear, despite how it looks.
A couple more thoughts: calculating out the crank horsepower gives me somewhere in the 315 range, meaning this engine is doing easily 100 hp per litre. Woot! Also, you can see that it really would have liked to rev to 8000-8200 rpm, if the oil pump/bottom end would have allowed... peak would have been around 7700 or so I believe, probably 273, 274 whp, or something like that. But I am not taking it higher than 7500/7600 now, don't want to blow another pump.
Oh, guess I should post the engine mod list applicable to today's dyno as well:
VQ30DE-K Swap
VQ35 Oil pump w/ low pressure cut off switch
VQ35 JDM cams (similar specs to JWT S1)
VQ35HR valve springs and retainers, double shimmed
Mild head "work" (NOT ported though)
Unorthodox flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Greddy EManage Ultimate
Pathfinder TB
Stock DEK crank pulley
Custom intake w/ MAF delete
Cattman headers/y-pipe/catback (plus cutout)
Low temp T-stat
Walbro fuel pump
Returnless fuel rail w/ adjustable FPR
First graph: Best run
Second graph: Comparison 2008 to 2005
J/KSo I got on the dyno this morning to finish up my tuning on the cammed DEK, seeing as I'm heading to the track tomorrow for one last hurrah with the 3L to hopefully beat my PB with it before putting the 3.5 in. So obviously I wanted it running and tuned up in top notch shape for tomorrow.
Anyways, I started off with just a straight baseline pull to see where it was at, and it put down about 246 whp. But viewing the loggers I could see it needed some tuning, so after 10-12 pulls and a bunch of playing with fuel and ignition timing I had it running up around 263 whp. Once I optimized it at that level then it was time to open the cutout and make some noise! I did so and after a little more tweaking I just about hit 270 whp at 7500 rpm, actually it came out as 269.87.
So it goes without saying I'm happy with that. Interestingly enough, the modeling I'd done before building the engine predicted around 275 whp at 7700 rpm, and I was skeptical at the time that it was accurate (never fully trust software lol), but hey the program was just about bang on. It does require meticulously measuring and inputing data to get that close though.
So below I've posted 2 graphs, the first one is the best run from today, and the second is just a fun comparison with my 220whp run from 2005 (with stock DE cams and 00VI). The cams have obviously shifted the power band as one would expect, although I have changed more than just cams between the 2005 dyno to now.
You'll notice the dip in the first graph at 6500 rpms, that spans approximately 200 rpms - that unfortunately is unavoidable and is due to the EU adding fuel to get past the stock limiter. There is a momentary rich spike that drops out the power for a split second, but keep in mind that 200 rpms goes by VERY quickly, especially in the lower gears and is almost unnoticeable in the car. It looks big and ugly on the DJ graph, but in reality affects the performance of the car barely at all. I can positively say that the car pulls pretty smoothly through that area, even in 3rd and 4th gear, despite how it looks.
A couple more thoughts: calculating out the crank horsepower gives me somewhere in the 315 range, meaning this engine is doing easily 100 hp per litre. Woot! Also, you can see that it really would have liked to rev to 8000-8200 rpm, if the oil pump/bottom end would have allowed... peak would have been around 7700 or so I believe, probably 273, 274 whp, or something like that. But I am not taking it higher than 7500/7600 now, don't want to blow another pump.
Oh, guess I should post the engine mod list applicable to today's dyno as well:
VQ30DE-K Swap
VQ35 Oil pump w/ low pressure cut off switch
VQ35 JDM cams (similar specs to JWT S1)
VQ35HR valve springs and retainers, double shimmed
Mild head "work" (NOT ported though)
Unorthodox flywheel
Exedy Stage 1 clutch
Greddy EManage Ultimate
Pathfinder TB
Stock DEK crank pulley
Custom intake w/ MAF delete
Cattman headers/y-pipe/catback (plus cutout)
Low temp T-stat
Walbro fuel pump
Returnless fuel rail w/ adjustable FPR
First graph: Best run
Second graph: Comparison 2008 to 2005
Last edited by DandyMax; Jul 5, 2008 at 11:13 AM.
It's already sold...
Play with the fuel injectors? Not sure what you mean.. they're just stock DEK injectors...
Nice numbers!!! and I don't say that often.
It's near what I want to make in power on a 3.0. Gives me some more motivation for my own build. With the right combination these 3.0s don't have a problem with making power up top, just a problem staying together.
It's near what I want to make in power on a 3.0. Gives me some more motivation for my own build. With the right combination these 3.0s don't have a problem with making power up top, just a problem staying together.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; May 9, 2008 at 10:44 PM.
Yes, significantly. And as a bonus, simpler plumbing with the engine swap etc...
In fact, I want to hear it at mid 7s... where are your sound clips dammit
To me that's not gutted at all... lots of material left inside there still if one wanted to truly gut it.
Tried that, all I got was a couple of blisters for my trouble.
I also heard sweet talking them one at a time before a run can help
HEHE, My car is being built exactly like dandy's except I'll be adding a few other things here and there. Could I be the first VQ to break the 300whp mark Its not gonna happen I know.........
Its not gonna happen I know.........
Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; May 11, 2008 at 01:04 AM.
Good luck getting another 30whp over dandy with "a few other things" 
if you pull 100whp/liter off I will be very impressed to say the least, especially on an auto 
(I assume you're going to swap to a manual before you do build the motor...)
if you pull 100whp/liter off I will be very impressed to say the least, especially on an auto (I assume you're going to swap to a manual before you do build the motor...)
The 100 hp/L mark is based on estimated crank numbers, tranny shouldn't matter if you use the appropriate loss percentage when back-calculating the crank # from the whp number.
not to flame the thread or anything cause DANDYMAX is the Motherfu....man but where is the "power valve" in the OOVI. Obviously dandy ur not going to tell us all ur secrets but i'm trying to hit 200whp in my dek swapped auto. I hit 180whp now...i have a vafc...what do you recommend to best get me to my goal and beyond?
not to flame the thread or anything cause DANDYMAX is the Motherfu....man but where is the "power valve" in the OOVI. Obviously dandy ur not going to tell us all ur secrets but i'm trying to hit 200whp in my dek swapped auto. I hit 180whp now...i have a vafc...what do you recommend to best get me to my goal and beyond?
ahah yea man...i wish i could do that...but idk like i've paid for everything that i've done to my car and my parents said the car is devalued which it is because of the dek swap but because i don't plan on selling anytime soon i don't understand what there hesitation is on me swapping to a manual. But they did say i could do the 3.5 which makes no sense and seeing the power that dandy made out of the 3.0 makes me just wanna keep this to see how much more i can extract.
ahah yea man...i wish i could do that...but idk like i've paid for everything that i've done to my car and my parents said the car is devalued which it is because of the dek swap but because i don't plan on selling anytime soon i don't understand what there hesitation is on me swapping to a manual. But they did say i could do the 3.5 which makes no sense and seeing the power that dandy made out of the 3.0 makes me just wanna keep this to see how much more i can extract.
5 speed swap+EU=220 whp