I was expecting some better numbers. The AFR was between 11.8 to 12.2 across the range although I had it street tuned to 12.9-13.1 doing second gear pulls. The one thing I noticed when I got home was that it wasnt dynoed to the 7200rpm rev cut. Mods are in sig.

 

Um, yeah... you should be putting out significantly better numbers than that. You didn't do any tuning on the dyno?

You're using the 3.0 manifolds, right?

 

Yes, 3.0 exhaust manifolds.
There was no time to do any tuning today. They just had enough time to do a couple of pulls and see where things were at. Hopefully over the course of the next few weeks I can figure out what's going on.

 

shee in an auto... man u ever ran the car???

 

yeah I would think you'd put down more

just take it to the track and run it that will tell you if the dyno #'s are bs or not

 

I'm actually thinking about taking it somewhere else to have it dynoed again. Even though its an auto, I still think I should have seen some better numbers. I dont think the AFR being in the 11.8 and low 12s would make that big of an impact.

I think the track closest to me is closed for the season. Or so I was told by one of the operators so that will have to wait till next season.

 

so you had it street tuned before the dyno? and ur afrs were around 13? but on the dyno they read 11.8 and 12s?

is that a normal thing and is it better to tune on the street or on the dyno? just curious...

 

It was street tuned in 2nd gear and the AFR was close to 13 flat. When I dynoed it today, 3rd gear, the AFR was down in the 11s and low 12s. We used my wideband so that there would be some sort of consistency. I data logged the runs with the EU and everything else seemed fine.

 

just wondering, what are your a/f now that your back home is it back to 13flat or in the 11s and 12s still

 

the widebands were not calibrated. Either yours or the dyno's. I would recalibrate your WB and do a run just to make sure it wasnt yours. If that's the case then use another dyno.

Another things, when you tune in one gear (2nd in your case) you most tune in a way that for 3rd gear (your real dyno gear) its going to LEAN by about .3-.4 because of the added airflow with the longer gears. In your case, on the dyno, this did the exact opposite, pointing the finger towards the dyno's WB.

Either case, on a dyno, WB readout has no effect on how the power to the ground is calculated. I would go to another dyno just to verify this against this dyno. If the new dyno is within close approximation to this one, then there's something going on with your engine. Also, was the TC locked for these pulls?

 

We never used the dyno's WB. My WB was used. Also the car was dynoed in D with OD off. I was under the assumption that the TC doesnt lock up with OD off.

 

I havent had a chance to check the AFR. I have to wait until this weekend when there's no traffic.

 

I rechecked the AFR today doing some 2nd gear pulls, and they're where I had them. 13 flat. The curve is nice and straight from 3500rpm right to 7200 with the exception of the spot where the stock fuel cut is where it momentarily dips into low 12s.

I have a dyno appointment at a different location booked for next week but in the mean time I would like to get some suggestions as to where I should look in the event that the second dyno confirms the low numbers. Where would you guys look for problems in the motor?

The setup:
02 vq35de
Nismo knock off cams
converted TB
SSIM with port matched LIM
4th gen IACV
oil catch can between pcv and UIM
breather on front valve cover

I installed the NWP spacers myself and now I'm second guessing if I put too much RTV on the spacers and maybe they're blocking the air path. Could something like that cause such significant losses?

 

What type of dyno did you use? This could be why the #'s are low.

 

the TC does lock up with OD off. always dyno like that with OD off. i have verified this myself with my manual lock up switch, dynoed with TC unlocked, put down like 240whp, dynoed with TC in stock setting with OD off, dynoed 312whp. so yea it does lock up.

 

oh snap all this time i thought it was a VQ30 with VQ35 cams... oops my bad, yeah something's off

 

Ok guys, when I was looking at the EU data log stuff, I noticed that I did a 50-100mph pull in 7.88 seconds in 2nd gear on the street. I compared this to several other 2nd gear pulls that I had saved and that number is consistent. Does that seem decently quick or is that average?

Also, I noticed that in the higher rpm, ignition timing is between 36-39 degrees. I was told it should be in the mid to low 30s.

 

general consensus is that any ign timing advance after 35* is a waste and will not yield any more power. Some have said that the threshold is even lower than that.

 

I suppose you have not yet read my 2nd vs 3rd theory ... have you?

 

I havent. Can you point me in the right direction please.



Nevermind. Found it.

 

Read my thread(s) & ask me if you have any ?'s (technical or not, ANYTHING) ...k?

I look forward to hearing from you....

-Nmex.

 

Give me a call Will when you get a chance, we can discuss... there is some misinformation in this thread.

Did you do a map trace to see which cells your dyno run tracked through on the I/J map? Are they the same as where it tracks through the 2nd gear pull (shouldn't be much different but I'm not sure how you changed the map doing your last tuning runs). Running high 11 AFR will lose some power but you should still have more than what you got with those mods. The ignition timing, where are you reading the 36-39 degrees... at what rpm? Also, is that an averaged number on the EU or a peak number you're seeing? 36 degrees up past 7000 rpm is no concern, but did you play with timing on the dyno at all to see where the optimal setting is? The numbers in that initial map were based on a different car (although still a 4th gen), so you may need to tweak a degree or two.

Are you sure you aren't having a KS problem again to cause a power loss? Also, check compression or better yet do a leakdown test.