Finally ran on dyno - have questions!
Yes I dynoed down here in MD with I/H/E block plate and stock cat and dynoed 238whp 231tq and I had that dip in the same place also so I was thinking it was my cat but now that I changed it and dynoed again and thought it would be better but that same stupid dip was there
Drove the car again tonight and got on it....didn't really notice the dip but I guess it's not something easy to feel (at least not on my car anyway). I definitely feel cleaning the MAF did some nice stuff, car runs smoother and all, but I doubt that my dyno readings would be any different given the circumstances. The real test would be to get dyno time and try using different setups (CAI, SRI, SRI or CAI with the helmholtz installed) and see if that flat spot goes away. I remember everyone saying how the VIAS block plate gives you a "smoother powerband"...well...what happened? 
ALso, i should calrify alittle further.
I believe the longer the SRI, the more pronounced it is (i.e. berk, etc). It was less pronounced when I had my MAF strapped onto the TB for my last dyno. (Ub3r SRI).
Using the stock Helmholtz (giant plastic box where PCV vent goes to) it actually delivers very smooth power.
So, with my new intake set-up, I actually found a way (don’t ask me how) to incorporate the resonator again. Using JWT POP/ custom 3” MAF. I think I was just lucky.
Also the noise level is insane with an Aluminum SRI, but with the resonator, it's not that bad, and I didn't lose any airflow up top. The difference is negligible as far as power goes. Now, add cams and a 7500 rev limit, and things might change, but for most of us, I think we're ok.
I believe the longer the SRI, the more pronounced it is (i.e. berk, etc). It was less pronounced when I had my MAF strapped onto the TB for my last dyno. (Ub3r SRI).
Using the stock Helmholtz (giant plastic box where PCV vent goes to) it actually delivers very smooth power.
So, with my new intake set-up, I actually found a way (don’t ask me how) to incorporate the resonator again. Using JWT POP/ custom 3” MAF. I think I was just lucky.
Also the noise level is insane with an Aluminum SRI, but with the resonator, it's not that bad, and I didn't lose any airflow up top. The difference is negligible as far as power goes. Now, add cams and a 7500 rev limit, and things might change, but for most of us, I think we're ok.
ALso, i should calrify alittle further.
I believe the longer the SRI, the more pronounced it is (i.e. berk, etc). It was less pronounced when I had my MAF strapped onto the TB for my last dyno. (Ub3r SRI).
Using the stock Helmholtz (giant plastic box where PCV vent goes to) it actually delivers very smooth power.
So, with my new intake set-up, I actually found a way (don’t ask me how) to incorporate the resonator again. Using JWT POP/ custom 3” MAF. I think I was just lucky.
Also the noise level is insane with an Aluminum SRI, but with the resonator, it's not that bad, and I didn't lose any airflow up top. The difference is negligible as far as power goes. Now, add cams and a 7500 rev limit, and things might change, but for most of us, I think we're ok.
I believe the longer the SRI, the more pronounced it is (i.e. berk, etc). It was less pronounced when I had my MAF strapped onto the TB for my last dyno. (Ub3r SRI).
Using the stock Helmholtz (giant plastic box where PCV vent goes to) it actually delivers very smooth power.
So, with my new intake set-up, I actually found a way (don’t ask me how) to incorporate the resonator again. Using JWT POP/ custom 3” MAF. I think I was just lucky.
Also the noise level is insane with an Aluminum SRI, but with the resonator, it's not that bad, and I didn't lose any airflow up top. The difference is negligible as far as power goes. Now, add cams and a 7500 rev limit, and things might change, but for most of us, I think we're ok.
Yea, ill be working on a new intake in a few weeks as I'm really not liking my dyno graph... I felt that dip today at the track (only in 3rd somehow also) ill just try and make something... (with no resource) care to explain the 3" MAF nmex?
Last edited by Grand_hustle17; Jul 2, 2010 at 09:30 PM.
ALso, i should calrify alittle further.
I believe the longer the SRI, the more pronounced it is (i.e. berk, etc). It was less pronounced when I had my MAF strapped onto the TB for my last dyno. (Ub3r SRI).
Using the stock Helmholtz (giant plastic box where PCV vent goes to) it actually delivers very smooth power.
So, with my new intake set-up, I actually found a way (don’t ask me how) to incorporate the resonator again. Using JWT POP/ custom 3” MAF. I think I was just lucky.
Also the noise level is insane with an Aluminum SRI, but with the resonator, it's not that bad, and I didn't lose any airflow up top. The difference is negligible as far as power goes. Now, add cams and a 7500 rev limit, and things might change, but for most of us, I think we're ok.
I believe the longer the SRI, the more pronounced it is (i.e. berk, etc). It was less pronounced when I had my MAF strapped onto the TB for my last dyno. (Ub3r SRI).
Using the stock Helmholtz (giant plastic box where PCV vent goes to) it actually delivers very smooth power.
So, with my new intake set-up, I actually found a way (don’t ask me how) to incorporate the resonator again. Using JWT POP/ custom 3” MAF. I think I was just lucky.
Also the noise level is insane with an Aluminum SRI, but with the resonator, it's not that bad, and I didn't lose any airflow up top. The difference is negligible as far as power goes. Now, add cams and a 7500 rev limit, and things might change, but for most of us, I think we're ok.
I'm about to pull the trigger on an LR BUT I'm not sure if I have to get a new stack + filter or if my JWT will work. Is it a direct bolt on affair (ie; LR bolts directly to the JWT velocity stack) or will I have to get a MAF adapter and some couplers and get on some harry potter magician wizardry type business?
Back on topic...
So you plan on using the regular A33 JWT POP intake with a 3" MAF housing, the POP does have a 3" outlet, correct?
I'm about to pull the trigger on an LR BUT I'm not sure if I have to get a new stack + filter or if my JWT will work. Is it a direct bolt on affair (ie; LR bolts directly to the JWT velocity stack) or will I have to get a MAF adapter and some couplers and get on some harry potter magician wizardry type business?
Back on topic...
I'm about to pull the trigger on an LR BUT I'm not sure if I have to get a new stack + filter or if my JWT will work. Is it a direct bolt on affair (ie; LR bolts directly to the JWT velocity stack) or will I have to get a MAF adapter and some couplers and get on some harry potter magician wizardry type business?
Back on topic...
Sounds like some PFM to me too!
....anyway, it's interesting that as the AFR starts to spike is when the dip at about 5k starts...
Lol nevermind that spike, I thought it was because of the AFR going up like that why the loss of power as I didn't have any tuning device for this dyno pull, I then added a VAFC for maxus to play with the AFR a little and there is nomore 18.1 AFR but the dip still exists... I thought that had to do with the stock cat as I was told it can give off readings like that... wish I made 600+TQ lol
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