Dyno Discussion and Slips Discussion and a moderated "Dyno Slips" sub-forum to allow for posting of dyno slips.

257/245 ish

Old Jul 6, 2011 | 06:37 AM
  #41  
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It surprised me too. When I went from LRMAF to 3", I didn't need to change anything. It might be because I was still using 3" tubing aside from the MAF.

But, last time I bolted the MAF right to the TB and a filter right on the MAF. Now it's obviously longer but the MAF is in the same place. Last time was before the 3" exhaust too.

It could be a number of things, but yeah weird. I was @ about -12-14%, and I had to be at +14-16% for a rough street tune. So that's a total of +30%.

Aside from the new intake, new dyno plans are for adding the elbow to plenum spacer after modifying it and if I decide to get ambitious, do some further SSIM'ing.




Last edited by NmexMAX; Jul 6, 2011 at 04:10 PM.
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #42  
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Any new numbers and post pics of that SSIM we all know you bought : )
Old Aug 15, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by McSteve
Any new numbers and post pics of that SSIM we all know you bought : )
+1

I wanna see that awesome manifold put to use!
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #44  
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It's shown up, but been busy lately. I would say in the next few weeks or so be expecting a dyno.
Old Aug 16, 2011 | 06:55 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
It's shown up, but been busy lately. I would say in the next few weeks or so be expecting a dyno.
Interested to see what it makes on your car.

I'll be making an intake manifold very similar to this design in a couple months.
I love working with and welding aluminum, so why not make a new plenum. lol
Old Aug 17, 2011 | 06:33 AM
  #46  
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Makes sense. I think it's about time yo bought some cheap semi-equal length headers too.

Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #47  
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Old Aug 18, 2011 | 12:55 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Makes sense. I think it's about time yo bought some cheap semi-equal length headers too.

I'm gonna get some of the altima ebay ones. Can't beat the price ($100) even if they are ****ty quality. lol
I want to make my own stepped headers, but the material would be expensive. I can fab and weld pretty well, but material costs can be pretty crazy sometimes.
I can get some scrap aluminum, so making the manifold will be cheap.

So, decent headers, a new manifold, and a safc are in the works. Hope to make around 260-270whp.

Gotta fix the diff in the trans first though. Perfect time to throw in the sentra LSD.

Goal is mid 12s on the motor.
Old Aug 18, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by krazy6
I'm gonna get some of the altima ebay ones. Can't beat the price ($100) even if they are ****ty quality. lol
I want to make my own stepped headers, but the material would be expensive. I can fab and weld pretty well, but material costs can be pretty crazy sometimes.
I can get some scrap aluminum, so making the manifold will be cheap.

So, decent headers, a new manifold, and a safc are in the works. Hope to make around 260-270whp.

Gotta fix the diff in the trans first though. Perfect time to throw in the sentra LSD.

Goal is mid 12s on the motor.
Dude, you're going be the 6th gen King. Mid 12's should happen easily with all that.

Originally Posted by nismology
ohai!!
Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:06 PM
  #50  
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my current setup





^
Frankenstein DEK vacuum solution for no need of nipples in the pipe.

That AEM filter is great for 5th gen since it has a whole to plug the IAT sensor in
Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:19 PM
  #51  
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I had a similar set-up. Didn't like it for some weird reason. It netted 242, but this was pre-3" exhaust and pre- spacers.
Old Aug 18, 2011 | 02:47 PM
  #52  
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This thread reminded me I need to make a 3.5 inch intake for our 3.5 and need to find a MAF.
Old Aug 18, 2011 | 03:00 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by ajcool2
This thread reminded me I need to make a 3.5 inch intake for our 3.5 and need to find a MAF.
Good things my brotha.

I was looking forward to dynoing the 3.5" on the SSIM, but since sparks already proved, 3.5" > 3.0", I'm just going to dyno the SSSIM + 3.5".


If those results are high with good under area gains, I'll consider cams. If they're not so impressive, I'll leave it as is and buy a 370z.
Old Aug 18, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Dude, you're going be the 6th gen King. Mid 12's should happen easily with all that.
That's what I'm shooting for.

I just want to be consistently in the 12s so I can be competitive in the all motor sport class at Import Face Off.

I would love to beat the honda guys in my maxima.
Old Aug 25, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Good things my brotha.

I was looking forward to dynoing the 3.5" on the SSIM, but since sparks already proved, 3.5" > 3.0", I'm just going to dyno the SSSIM + 3.5".


If those results are high with good under area gains, I'll consider cams. If they're not so impressive, I'll leave it as is and buy a 370z.
Well I think you'd see bigger benefit from cams with the custom SSIM and 3.5" intake vs a stock IM car. But 370z with a couple of key boltons > maxima with that IM and cams. lol
Old Aug 25, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I wonder where you got that idea!?

It's definitely the way to go, though. I gained power on the dyno going from a super short ram to about the same length as yours.
Old Aug 25, 2011 | 01:52 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
I wonder where you got that idea!?

It's definitely the way to go, though. I gained power on the dyno going from a super short ram to about the same length as yours.
It's an awesome idea. I needed to add a lot of fuel as you saw previously in this thread.
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 05:14 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
But 370z with a couple of key boltons > maxima with that IM and cams. lol
But maxima with bore and sleeves to make 3.8L, 11.0:1 CR and cams, headers, SSIM, 3.5" tubing and LRMAF > AND CHEAPER than new 370z.


Hey NMEX...I see you got a breather filter on the front valve cover...did you put a breather on the rear cover as well and plug the IM connection?? Will this cause damage to the engine or any check engine light to come on? Did you get a chance to dyno the new 3.5" tubing with the LRMAF yet?
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 06:45 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004

Hey NMEX...I see you got a breather filter on the front valve cover...did you put a breather on the rear cover as well and plug the IM connection?? Will this cause damage to the engine or any check engine light to come on? Did you get a chance to dyno the new 3.5" tubing with the LRMAF yet?
No, didn't do a breather on the rear VC, just a ghetto catch can. Jime has one on each IIRC, and his is fine.

Haven't dyno'd with the 3,5: intake or SSSIM. When things slow down, that's the plan ... (SSSIM + 3.5", not going to do in betweens).
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
Hey NMEX...I see you got a breather filter on the front valve cover...did you put a breather on the rear cover as well and plug the IM connection?? Will this cause damage to the engine or any check engine light to come on? Did you get a chance to dyno the new 3.5" tubing with the LRMAF yet?
If you leave the rear VC connected to the IM when putting a filter on the front VC, then the front is a vacuum leak when the PCV valve is open. You either need to disconnect one or both. I had random lean idle problems for almost a year before I figured this out...

I have a catch can on each and they both vent to atmosphere. You need to drill out the PCV valve and front VC vent for best effect.

Easiest solution of course is just to put a catch can on the rear one (where the PCV is) and leave it all hooked up.

Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Haven't dyno'd with the 3,5: intake or SSSIM. When things slow down, that's the plan ... (SSSIM + 3.5", not going to do in betweens).
Did you install it yet?
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
If you leave the rear VC connected to the IM when putting a filter on the front VC, then the front is a vacuum leak when the PCV valve is open. You either need to disconnect one or both. I had random lean idle problems for almost a year before I figured this out...

I have a catch can on each and they both vent to atmosphere. You need to drill out the PCV valve and front VC vent for best effect.

Easiest solution of course is just to put a catch can on the rear one (where the PCV is) and leave it all hooked up.

So disconnect front VC and put breather filter on........then disconnect rear VC and put breather filter on and plug the IM connection with some sort of a vaccum cap??
Old Oct 10, 2011 | 05:43 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by ranmas2004
So disconnect front VC and put breather filter on........then disconnect rear VC and put breather filter on and plug the IM connection with some sort of a vaccum cap??
There are tons of options for vacuum caps from autozone rubber to silicone ones you can order online.

If you go this route, you really need to drill out the PCV valve at the very least.
Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:32 AM
  #63  
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While we are talking about the vacuum situation,

read through this guys and let me know what you think!

http://www.sr20-forum.com/naturally-...d-edition.html
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