jnm2kse

Or will this harm the engine in any way?

I don't have time to do my own changes and the synth oil changes are killing me in the pocket.

palmerwmd

You should be able to.
Some might recommend a flush before a change, but I am uncertain if this is really neccessary, w/ modern oil formulations.

I would still do a flush anyway, cuz I am paranoid.

But about the $$.. this is what I do:

Find a cheapo oil changer, bring in my own syn oil + premium filter.
With $15 (i dont ask them for anything off for bringing my own cuz their deal is so cheap anyway) for teh cost of the change plus my oil/filter cost..

In the end I have a reasonable cost for my full syn oil change.


Fred...

2k2kev

I agree w/ palmer... synth costs 2x more, but it lasts 2x longer so it's a wash... find someone cheap who'll use the oil you bring.

But if not, everything written on this board says there shouldn't be a problem switching back.

theMax

mobil 1 and regular oil are fully compatible. (ever hear of synthetic blends?)

No problem switching back and no need to flush and fill.

If you are a little short of mobil 1 you can top it off with regular oil, but then you can't extend the drain interval.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

And how do you flush the oil out? I remember back in the day when my dad used to do it on his 66 impala they used to put kerosene and run it for like a min and then remove it, but dont think that can be done in these highly advanced cars now-a-days.

Dixit

Larrio

iTrader: (10)

i heard that some people use the amsoil engine flush, which comes in a bottle and you just follow the instructions and "presto!"... you can change from dino to synthetic or vice versa.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

The engine flush is for switching high mileage/neglected cars to synthetic. If you want to go back to conevntional, just drain and fill with the oil of your choice. There shouldn't be any compatibility issues.

palmerwmd

It's always dangerous to flush himilage and/or dirty engines.
If a lot of sludge comes free, not all of it will drain out and it might plug the oil pick-up screen.

Which will result in oil starvation and or even the pickup screen being pulled into the engine, with predicatble results.
Both of these have things actually happened.

I would only as a rule use a flush like CD-2 or equivalent if I was confident that the engine was not too badly dirty.

My current car has 90,000 miles on the engine I got it w/ 84,000 miles on engine.

Engine was reasonably clean when I got it.
But I like my engines to be "as new" clean.
So:
I have been running syn oils and right before oil change added syn ATF, idled for 40 miutes, to gently clean it out some more.
With this procedure I will feel comfortable doing a flush in a couple of oil changes.

I know it sounds paradox but,
I will only flush an engine that's pretty clean to begin with.


When flushing for conducting a change to syn oil (again its probably not neccessary) but there is a rationale for doing a flush in order to switch to regular:

Many synthetic oils cling to engine parts better than non-syn.
So not all will drain.
In the resulting mix the syn oil components may do some clinging and results in reduced oil movement because of that.

Commerial syn Blends would be formulated from the beginning to keep this from happening.

Again the above is probably a bit paranoid, but that's the rationale that's always been given for doing a flush in these circumstances.
I am not neccessarily recommending it though, probably not nessessary.
Also as stated above, dont do a flush if you suspect your engine to be very dirty.

Fred...

RussMaxManiac

Synthetic extend drain intervals to 5-7k. It will save you money.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

That's why using a new oil filter prior to running the flush through, to catch all the crap.

Interesting, you're against using a dedicated engine flush, but you'll run ATF through instead. Since ATF has some pretty serious detergent properties, why do you think this method is any safer??

jnm2kse

Thanks guys!

That's the info I needed...I'm waaaaaaaaaay overdue for a change and I'm not gonna fork out yhe $$ for a synth change. Just gonna fill her up on some good ole dino 5w30...maybe 1030.

Thanks!

I've gone back to the rg paper air filter from Nissan also. K&N was getting to be a hassle when you have no time...and you know my time is low when I can't even do something simple as that

palmerwmd

A dedicated engine flush is a lot more aggressive.

I have often learned of problems using those on sludged up engines from several techs/shops (one in Atlanta, 3 In minnesota)

Often the only solution was to uninstall and resinstall the oil pan again and again w/ running in between until no more sludge was coming.

But I have never heard anyone running into trouble with the ATF method.
As a result I am perfectly comfortable w/ using the ATF method, I also had someone whose judgment I respect, recommend synthetic ATF over non synthetic for this application.

Fred..

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Nothing wrong with being cheap, just don't be overcheap.


Use Castrol GTX dino and the Nissan OEM or STP S6941 oil filter.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Huh, I haven't heard of any problems with using an engine flush personally. I guess I would be more wary if it was going in a Toyota

exunaja

you all saying that using oil flush when switching between different brand of synthetic oil is useless?

How 'bout manual tranny flush? any idea I just drain and refill my trany fluid over the weekend with amsoil 75w-90 gear oil without flushing. the original fluid seems to be really good for 40k.


any comment

Erwin

exunaja

bump

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Erwin,

There's no need to flush a manual transmission. The gear oil will not see anywhere near the same temperatures that engine oil will and will also not be subject to contaminantion like the engine oil. Just drain and fill for the transmission is as good as it gets.

exunaja

thanks Mark,
so only the auto tranny need to be flush.
I notice my transmission is much better now than before..
ahh the power of synt.. can't wait for my next oil change.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Yep, only the auto's need to be flushed. The fluid gets trapped in the torque converter so you can't drain it all out. No such problem in a 5 speed.

jnm2kse

So if all the red is gone from my tranny fluid am I bumming? I guess I should have it changed and flushed? Dealer is gonna bend me over i bet for this one

palmerwmd

The red dye will decompose before your additives will, so you may still be ok for now.
But it's in there as a safety when its gone---> flush it.

Fred...

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

I'd be more concerned if it smelled burned. To have the dealer or other shop flush it with conventional ATF you're looking anywhere between $80-120 unless you find a good deal somewhere.

jnm2kse

Midas in Nashua quoted me 119.00 to do a "Power flush" (was getting my State Inspection sticker)

I'll give it a smell (sounds funny to say that) what would it smell like? Burt cookies?, smelly feet?, my cat's fish breath?

Will I need a flush?

Nissan coupon for AT service for 59.99 I downloaded doesn't look like it includes a flush, just a drain and refill and throttle link adjustment and the famous 14 point check...whatever the heck that is

palmerwmd

I would get the flush as a rule of thumb, it's been more than 2 yrs or 20,000 miles.
The best way to get a flush is as a combined flush THEN pan drop and filter replacment.
This is absolutely neccessary, especially for those that haven't flushed in a while, to get rid of all the gunk the flush will kick loose.
On my car (Q45) service stations, even dealers, either say the filter is a "lifetime filter" and doesn't need to be removed or deny its existence altogether.

But a member of my other board, cut open those "lifetime filters" and they were often dirty or even clogged.

Besides overheating the second most common cause of tranny failure is ATF startvation due to clogged filters (often can be heard as a tranny "whine" when it starts)

Luckily a pan drop/filter exchange is cheaper than a flush so one can always add it on.

Some PPL do only the pan drop and filter exchange, but that won't renew your fluid the way it needs to (replaces only 35% of ATF or so).

yes thats more frequent than the factory recommendations but those are made to make you last thru the warranty.

My cars get a tranny flush every 15,000 miles or 18 months, whichever comes first.

Plus a tranny cooler and only use premium ATF usually MOBIL1.

Thats the way to make an auto tranny last, especially when driven hard as many of us here do.

Cars previous owner, had just replaced the tranny w/ a factory reman (previous tranny maintenace probably poor and he lived in South Texas w/ NO tranny cooler ..)
And he gave it a flush+pandrop/filterexchange at 8000 miles, to get the break-in gunk out of it.
I have given it another flush+pan drop at 18,000 miles, and another pan drop plus filter exchange at 22,000 miles.
and it will get another full flush plus pan drop/filter exchange at 35,000 or there abouts.


Fred...

PS: The Maxima's tranny is made by the same firm as mine, JATCO.