I have purchased a home 1.5 miles from work.

My problem: When I drive my car to work now, it will not reach proper operating temp. It will be in a garage when its not being driven. What, if anything, can be done to help make sure I dont tear up my car?

Its a 2K1, 5spd. I use amsoil 5W-30, Mobil 1 filter 110, got RedLine in the tranny (soon to be ditched for Amsoil after I move in) and have the coolant changed every 18 months or so? I use stock paper air filters from Nissan, and only use 93 Oct.

Should I move anything up? Use anything different? Is there anything that can be done?

I usually ride my bike, but there are going to be times I cant, especially in the winter. I want to make sure she lasts a good long time.

Thanks!

 

Remote starter for the winter so it can warm up for a few minutes and take the long way home every now and then!

 

In the summertime it won't be that bad since it's hot outside and the oil won't be too thick when it settles.. But for the winter definitely look into getting a remote start. You could start you car while your getting dressed and by the time your done your car is warmed up. That doesn't mean you can rev the car high and fly to work. I would still drive the car under 3K RPM for the first 5 min or so.

 

the solution is to leave your house 10 mins early to heat up the car

 

this is the most beneficial part of a remote start besides showing off

 

I conccur

 

The only issue with the remote starters is that escessive idling isn't very good for the engine. It leads to increased sparkplug deposits and some more fuel dilution which of course takes it's toll on the oil, leading to a more acidic mixture in the crankcase.

The long way to work is the best bet.

 

What about a "winter" kit. Is there an engine block heater, or oil pan heater that can be purchased to help this?

I am not a big fan of leaving my car running w/o me being around, so a remote start is not an option for me. I always leave my car in gear and dont like the idea of it being out of gear.

I had planned on an "extended" drive once or twice a week, but will that be enough? Should it be more than that?

 

Please show me prof of this...

My family has been using remote starts for years. All of our cars are driven well into the 150,000 mile range before we sell them. We've never had an internal engine problem on any car we've ever owned. Mom wasn't very good about oil changes either, and her last Cougar had 180,000 miles on it when it was sold to my friend who lives up in Vermont. It's approaching the 200,000 mile mark now, doesn't use any oil, starts up perfectly and runs like a champ. Believe me, it idles even more now through the ice cold Vermont winters then it did down here in NJ. It also has, much to our amazement the original exhaust system on it. So please show me the prof that warming up your car in the morning is bad for it?

Never letting your engine oil get hot enough to burn off moisture will cause much more harm to your engine then a simple 5 minute idle in the morning.

 

Are there remote starters for a 5spd? If yes, that would mean that the car is left out of gear, which wouldn't make me feel all safe. I don't trust my parking brake

 

I drive short trips of ~1.3-miles each way to work 5-days a week NOW, since I can't ride my alternative mode of transportation(long story).

Anyways, I typically take a road trip 1x per month, so my results may be different than yours. I just got my Redline() analysis back and it looks VERY good. I don't think the short trip driving will hurt a quality oil such as Mobil, Redline, or Amsoil, but the initial startup wear-n-tear will be increased as I see from the increase wear metals. Also, you see colder weather than I do, so I'd stick with your synthetic 5W-30 or maybe try and go to a 0W with a few analysis to show you wear.

BTW, your tone towards the MT-90 seems negative, any reason why you're switching to Amsoil? Did you get a negative analysis back? I couldn't be happier with the MT-90, since my tranny hasn't shifted this nicely since new and ESPECIALLY since I've had my STS.

 

Well, no. Once I move into my garage, I want to drain the tranny and put in Amsoil. Just for giggles. I put in the Redline, and while it did get better, I just did not get the "butt" results I thought I would get. I just cant get a "panic" downshift. If I try a quick DS from 5->4 I get "locked" out. I have to putz around with it to get it in gear. Redline DID help my cold weather issues 100% thought.

I am really draining the redline very early (<10K miles) because I am more worried about syncro problems. In my drain at 18K it was a golden metallic color. If at 28K I still see this type of problem. I am going to have it "serviced" at my Nissan dealer next time and then call the shot. I intend to get the amsoil spec'd. Where...dunno yet. Are we all still using Blackstone?

BTW, no 2 wheel wheelablity eh?

 

Yeah Blackstone. Make sure you sample the Redline too, since I've got 8K or so to go before I get mine. I'm curious how yours turns out. Who cares about the Amsoil? I'd run 10K on the Redline and then put in the Amsoil and run another 10K and see which holds up better. However, if your tranny is really going down hill that would probably be a bad comparison. BTW, I got my OEM tranny fluid sample at 15K and it didn't sound good, so 18K with metal flakes is worse.

No, got jealous over my electric scooter. I can't afford a R1100S right now.

 

Walk or ride a bike.

 

Simple:


Change your oil every 3 to 4 months regardless of mileage.

 

Tom,

Proof isn't that difficult, as it's common sense.

Keep in mind Mark said excessive idling. From your own comments, it's clear you aren't excessively idling your car. Mark's comments don't apply to your conditions, rather the possible conditions Colonel would subject his Maxima to. He's simply stating a warning.


It is true that excessive idling tends to shear an oil quicker due to the viscosity drop because of excessive fuel dilution. That isn't arguable.

 

Colonel,

My other recommendation is to switch to Amsoil Series 2000 0W/30. Clearly, your driving conditions are going to need the best oil out there.

 

Yeah right, that's called exercise. If I wanted to exercise, I'd go to a gym and lift weights.

[rant]
Everyone say that, however E-scooters are the ULTIMATE mode of transportation for short trips and laws should include them.
[/rant]

 

Plus when its below zero with even further below 0 with windchill. I am NOT riding a bike.

Dont have an M endorsement or that E-thing is not legal on a public road at all?

 

Yeah I was thinking about that move anyway. Just have to finish off my current case of 5W first. BUT...might leave that with the Wifes Focus, as she will still get good driving in. 18 miles one way.

Man my next oil order is going to be huge. I have to get 0W for the Max. Not sure about moving the Focus to 0W, so need 5W for it. And need a separate case for my bike oil. Sheesh. Im gonna be poor!

 

How about just swapping cars every other day? Or she doesn't drive your car?

Go with Redline from myoilshop and you can order per qt.

Nope. They say it's classified as a motorcycle, yet it only goes 13mph(withOUT mods ), so I'd never get it to pass. Even if I did, it would be suicide in the traffic lanes. It needs to be classified with the same rights/responsibilites of a bicycle. F'ing 20yr. old laws were written when these things didn't even exist, but the popo think it's black/white, either in/out. BS...azzholes is all.

 

Uhhhhh, no. Its a 5spd. She has never drivin a manual. And she is not learning on my Max.

The way I go through oil, I HAVE to buy it by the case. But that was the past. Not sure about now.

It must be the way its build. A buddy of mine way back when had all kinds of mopeds. But when he went to a certain style (cant remember) it was like you. Classified as a motorcycle and unless you have the M endorsement on your license...nada. Hehe, just get a M endorsement and be done with it.

 

Redline is not the optimal choice for these driving conditions. I haven't seen lab proof of its ability to take a beating over a long term the way Amsoil has.

 

Same here!

Same price if you order per qt or per case.

Anything "motorized" is either a motorcycle or auto and must be registered and pass certain requirements. Just imagine this....I'm going a top speed of 13mph as traffic is going 50+mph. Hmmmmn....I DON'T THINK SO. I'd be a fuking gnat on someones windshield within a week.

 

Have you seen lab proof that shows it can't? I'm guessing no, so we won't know unless someone tries it.

Amsoil definitely has a stronger additive package for EXTREME long drain intervals, however Redline will easily handle <7500 mile intervals. If he wants to go longer than 7500 miles between intervals then Amsoil is the ONLY synthetic I'd consider.

 

Yes, I've seen several Redline analyses with lots of miles/severe driving conditions. None have impressed me in the least. I wouldn't state that opinion unless I was convinced.

Redline is a good oil for those who "race". It isn't optimal for those who wish to go extended drain intervals or have very harsh driving conditions (short trips in this case). It's simply a matter of composition, not that Redline is "inferior". It's just for those more oriented to racing style of driving. You won't find anyone touting Redline's extended drain or severe service performance. It's isn't marketed or made for those types of people.

 

Yeah, but its more "convinent" for me to have it sitting around. She racks up miles in a hurry and then its "dear...I need an oil change". I am on a 6-8 week pace with her focus.

So get a real "bike" and be done with it. Thats my real beater right now. Easy to repair and maintain. So it gets my miles. Plus, it gets to op temp quicker, more fun to ride AND you cant beat me in 0-60 or 0-100!

 

Explain.

Mardigras samples are fine and there aren't much more extreme kind of conditions. Otherwise, all I see are some HIGH mileage 4-cylinder HONDA engine samples, which would be HARD to relate to a VQ wear metals.

Off Redlineoil.com,
"Because of the robust polyester base stock and high-performance anticorrosive additive package in Red Line oils, they are ideal for use in street-driven vehicles at extended drain intervals. Red Line recommends oil changes for engines that are in good condition and do not see frequent starts without warm-ups or short-trips at between 10,000 and 18,000 miles for gasoline engines, 10,000 and 12,000 miles for diesel engines, or every 12 months, whichever is shorter."

AND

"DRAIN INTERVALS
Red Line stands alone in the ability to provide extended drain intervals and lower friction and wear. Red Line Synthetic oils have been shown to last 25,000 miles in field tests; however we recommend shorter drain intervals in order to provide a margin of safety with the oil. We recommend draining the oil between 12,000 and 18,000 miles depending on the type of service and the degree of blow-by gases contaminating the oil. High-speed freeway driving is easy on the oil due to its excellent thermal stability. If the engine is worn and if considerable stop-and-go driving is involved, 10,000-12,000 mile drains are suggested. A good rule of thumb to follow is to change the oil at least once a year regardless the mileage. Manufacturers warranty requirements should be followed while under warranty. Filters can be changed every 5,000 to 7,500 miles in order to assure filter durability is not a problem. Red Line makes a 15W40 Diesel Engine Oil for diesel engines. The diesel engine oils contain significantly greater detergency and total base number (TBN) which helps keep the engine clean. This additional detergency is not recommended for gasoline engines since it could increase the tendency for spark plug fouling. Even though the Red Line Motor Oils meet the specifications for diesel engines, the Diesel Engine Oil should be used where extended drains (10,000 miles +) are required."

 

Wait a min Wanger. Why are you discounting Bill's analysis on the 4 cylinder engines when Redline doesn't mention engine specific applications?? ie.. go long on V6s but don't do this on 4 cylinder cars?

 

I only stock one change ahead, since I don't have room for storing too much in my apt/garage. My point was the cost of ordering on a per change basis is the same as buying a case, because shipping costs are based on the weight and the 10% discount pretty much makes that free anyways. Since it takes 4.25qts. per change, I find it's convienient to order 9qts. per needed vs. a case at a time, which is only good for 2-changes anyways because of the partial qt..

I don't have $13,500 right now NOR a garage big enough to fit the Max PLUS a bike. Hopefully, by next summer I will.

[edit]
Oh BTW, I'll SMOKE YOU on my Escoot from 0-60 OR 0-100. Millimeters...that is.
[/edit]

 

I'm not discounting anything. I'm just HOPING he'll explain, since a lot of his knowledge is all in his head and he's not embellishing.

Anyways, those engines LEVEL of "wear metals" are going to be completely different PLUS they are 100K+ engines, so I don't think that's going to be an apples vs. apples comparison. Also, most 4-bangers must be SQUEEZED a little harder than V6's, so take that for what you will.

Again, I'm not saying BS on anything, I just want him to explain so my feable mind can understand his logic. I'm more than willing to buy that, but I just don't think we have enough data to make that judgement, yet!

 

The Bob is the oil guy site has other examples. I'm not construing my conclusions from my limited Redline examples in my spreadsheet.


Relating isn't rocket science. You can extrapolate trends from what you know versus what you don't. In fact, there are several Amsoil long interval examples from Hondas that make comparisions plausible, since Hondas 4 and 6 cylinder engines seem to exact similar stresses on engine oil.

MardiGras is a perfect example of someone who should use Redline based on his mods. But he doesn't have the notion of going 10k on an interval.


I've seen and laughed at that recommendation many times. But, I think Amsoil's recommendations are "head in the clouds" thinking as well.

I wouldn't take what Redline says as gospel.


Oh, and take that 40-weight crap out of your VQ.

 

Honda's V6 engines seem to be just as hard on oil as their 4 cylinder models, the common thread being both are VTEC equipped.

 

Where's that? I don't trust anyones' data, other than ours anyways. Hehe.

Extrapolating that far is a wee stretch for me. I'll wait and decide once more data is collected. I know you tend to make judgements SOONER and then if the data points a different way, you change your opinion. I'm kind of a "stick to your guns" kind of fool that must be slapped with HARD FACTS to change my mind. Flaw...I know.

Yes, however if Redline can handle 6-8K of his abuse? I'm going to assume my few rev-limit excursions and short trips while cold are going to be covered.

Oh...I don't. I would choose Amsoil for anything over 7500-mile intervals and that number is probably too low, but that's coming from a guy who still thinks his engine will blow up if he goes over 4K miles. Considering my Sentra change of 4100-miles was the longest I've EVER gone in any vehicle I've owned, I'd say getting myself over the 3K mark was a HUGE improvement.

You forget I used to run Kendall 20W-50 dino...how about them apples on a brand new VQ engine.

 

FOR A BIKE...are you on drugs? For those $$$ better drive itself.

I do (in two weeks)

LOL I wish I could find that video of the dufus on a N2O powered scooter beating a T/Am. It was to cool (staged or not)

 

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi


WARNING: You will spend days sifting through stuff.




Ice doesn't trust my observations and experience.





Prove me wrong by going that long on Redline. I've begged members to do some long term stints on Redline but no one has.




3k oil changes =

 

Yep. Wouldn't even consider anything else.

Did you get a raise again?

Electric is cool. PEAK hp/tq from the instant I twist my wrist. With a modded motor controller, it'll rip out of my hands.

 

Cool. Homework.



Neeeeva!

3-4 months though!

 

Why? BTW, who makes it and what does "it" have over any other bike?

Raise...at Honeywell...you GOT to be kidding me. Townmeeting anybody?

Sweeeeeeet...Instant power!

 

BMW nuff said?


If not,

Engine:
Opposed twin, Bosch Motronic controlled fuel injection/electronic ignition, 98bhp@7500rpms/70lb-ft@5750rpms.

Suspension:
Front: Telelever w/central spring/strut.
Rear: Paralever swing arm and shaft drive.

Brakes:
Optional ABS.
Front: 4-piston calipers with dual 12.6" rotors.
Rear: 2-piston calipers with single 11.2" rotor.

Most of all the looks. I've always loved how the opposed-twin sticks out to the sides and the dual exhaust curves into twin canisters directly under the rear tip of the seat/fender. The exhaust note is second only to the Italian bikes. There is A LOT more than this, but the reliability and service costs down the road are bar none. FYI, all the local police departments are switching over to BMW's due to the reliability and reduced maintenance costs.

They definitely aren't fast nor cheap to buy, but they have the PERFECT balance of everything IMO. Basically, it's a $80K M5, but with two less wheels and a lot less cargo/passenger area.