considering the mileage I think you should go with 5w-40 or 10w-40. Its a little thicker since your engine's tolerances aren't what they were when new.

 

Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w30.

ONLY use thicker oils IF YOU HAVE A LEAK. If you don't have a leak, no reason to switch. You want the oil to start flowing right away ASAP. Most of engine wear and damage happens at startup.

 

guess you learn something everyday. I guess thats an old mechanics practice.

 

well engines are so reliable these days that leaking is not a common problem anymore

 

thanks playa and col ronson for your answers. I am also under the impression that by having a good quality oil and a good oil filter such as Pure One that I can increase or better improve my MPG, is this true?

Thanks in advance

 

hmmmmm, dont know about that one.

 

Synthetic (because it is more slippery) will give you slightly better gas mileage, but you will probably be hard pressed to measure the size of the improvement.

 

i over fill my 97 max with 4.7 qt. is it bad for the engine?

 

Just fill it w/ however much the manual tells you, or slightly less.

 

that mobile 1 extended is good stuff so are royal purple that one i use
and so is castrol synthetic there all good just dont forget if your using
synthetic oil make sure you use a synthetic oil filter if your planing on
extending your oil change interval because the el cheapo ones that are made

of paper might not hold up as a better built syn oil filter

 

yeah synthetic lubricates better, so your engine parts have less resistance between them. however, the mileage improvement is probably 20 extra miles per 1000. Its hard to notice. of course i've been using M1 for the entire ownership of the car so who knows.

 

A good quality synthetic oil will not only provide better lubrication between moving parts, but the uniform size of the molecules also results in less friction within the fluid itself, thereby resulting in better fuel economy. Users of a high quality synthetic lubricants often experience fuel economy gains between 2 and 5 percent...generally not a huge deal/deciding factor for most motorists, but commercial drivers and fleet operators stand to save a lot of money by switching to synthetic drivetrain fluids.

 

Not a good idea. You should fill the engine so that the oil is just at the mark on the dipstick. Overfilling can easily cause the oil to foam, reducing its effectiveness. I like to put in 4 quarts and then run the engine for a day. I then put in enough additional oil (usually in two applications) to bring the oil sump up to the dipstick mark.

 

I just bought my first synthetic oil..., Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Mobil 1 Extended Performance filter. I figure, you have used it? I am still trying to find a lot of reviews on the M1 EP, but just have not found it around here. Can anybody give me a link? I will do my first synthetic oil change sometime this month when my 08 Max hits 30k.

How many miles can one conveniently go on the M1 EP?

I would like to try Amsoil too sometime. I hear that is the best synthetic oil out there. Any link to this too?

Who has tried what Amsoil and what were the results? I would appreciate this info.

 

hi guys,
i have a 96 maxima with 113000 miles with the vq30de
i was just wondering which oil and oil filter will be best for my car to get the most out of it and not ruin the engine?

 

is anybody in here?

 

I'd go with Castrol GTX High Mileage and a Wix filter.

 

a wix oil filter absolutly yes! considering WIX makes
the same K&N oil filter and NAPA golds as well

as far as a using a good oil goes i love ROYAL PURPLE
not just because i can get a deal on it but because of its
long history behind it its been around since the 50"s
with that kind of reputation nowonder a lot of engine rebuilders
love it i use it in my own 96 and my engine loves it!

by that i mean i dont hear any drag on my engine quick starts
all the time slight power increase of 3-5 horsepower and
slightly better fuel econo twoo

so its awsome stuff...!!!

 

So what do we think about this? http://www.microgreenfilter.com/

 

^ Hmmm..interesting.
Try it out and report back.

 

Just changed my oil with GTX 5w30 and the Mobil 1 M110 filter.
Makes a man FEEL good...
Thanks for the tip!

 

While Bill's orignial posting might still serve as a good baseline, the information is over 6 years old and should not be assumed as being valid today. Formulations change, new API requirements have been instituted, and some of the products identified in the original posting have been replaced/superceded with higher performing products...

 

ABSOLUTLY TRUE!
good post from playa_FL

if you got high a mileage engine only use a little thicker oil "especially" important if your due later
some time down the road for an emissions test reason its more
critical to use a little thicker oil on a emission test is blow
by the rings especially if the engine is consuming oil

i never use the factory oem rating oil on my car my car has
250.000kms if i stick with the factory oem 5w30 it will do worse
on a emission test then using a 5w40 synthetic oil thats fact!
reason being the 5w30 is thinner and has more blow by more blow
means more

emisions out the tailpipe the only reason car manufactures use
thin oils in new engines is to help lower fuel consumption and emissions
thats it!!..

in my car its only the best
-5w40 ROYAL PURPLE

-BG MOA oil additive

-NAPA GOLD OIL FILTER

 

Where do our oil choices stand now as far as what is better than what? I am currious to know why Castrol EDGE is not mentioned at all. Claims 8x the protection of the leading Mobile 1. I also have read Mobile 1 is more petrolium based than Castrol making it break down faster and lose it's lubricating properties faster. So the closer you get to your 3k mile change the worse your car runs. I have tested the theory to be true with Mobil 1 which is why I am going to test out Castrol. So far Mobile 1 and Royal Purple are pretty similar and the best I have used. Quaker, Shell, Penzoil, Nissan oil are all crap compared to Mobil 1 and RP. I will let you know how the Castrol Edge holds up. I change my oil frequently and use the toughguard filter. I will see if there is a change. Once I find my oil I will start looking for a better filter. Will report back.

 

I'll be staying away from castrol gtx for now. Reading that its as thin as water when warmed up is not something I want in the POS oil burning engine I have...

 

Why bother with synthetic motor oil if you change it frequently -- like every 3 K miles? (Nissan's shortert oil change interval is 3.5K miles). You can save money and get ample protection using dino motor oil with these short OCIs.

I run Mobil 1 for 10 K miles and then send a sample to the lab for testing. The result is always the same -- there is still ample protection in the used oil after 10K miles. But I don't want to change only the filter and not the oil, so I go to what I consider the filter limit of 10 K miles. I have to admit that many of those miles are on interstate highways. Although HI has interstates too, it is difficult there to drive 400 miles in a day, like I do driving to Chicago. But you should at least consider going to the Nissan higher OCI of 7 K miles.

The only way to determine what life remains in your old oil is to get a lab test. But running synthetic for only 3 K miles is definitely throwing away a resource that has substantial life still remaining. Get a lab test to confirm this point.

 

I used to go 7k w/ Mobil 1 when I had my max.

 

like I had mentioned above the rings on this engine are sh*t and well mine are bad enough to burn through 1-1&1/2 quarts around my 3k mile range so might as well replace the oil and filter then. Also there is quite a bit of gas smell from the oil when I change it each time which is a good indication that it has to be changed out anyway. I know you are supposed to have a bit of gas smell but this is allmost like taking the pump nozzle and jamming it up your nostril. I don't even have a clue as to where I can take my oil to get analyzed here in Hawaii.

 

You don't "take your oil anywhere." You mail it to the lab.

Go to their new web site:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

You will find all of the info you need there.

 

Oil: Castrol
Filter: Pure One made by Purolator, it's top of the line.

 

i dont buy it one bit i think if your gonna do that
your taking a huge risk and possibly damage your engine!
for good heres why? any oil will after oh 1200-1500
miles start to break-down when i say break-down i mean
the additive package in the oil begins burning off.
and secondly fuell contamination

that gets in the oil and if you dont believe me pull your dipstick
out after 1.500 miles and smell the oil on the end of that
dipstick. and thirdly is everyday stress example from
stopn go or high speed driving so when you factore in

all this that 2 micron filter will never compensate for that
anyday !!? i dont care how good it is you still need to
replenish your oil with new .

 

Are fram filters still bad? I just recently bought the xtended guard, wondering if i should return.

 

you will be fine as long as you change your oil in the 3k mile recommended time frame for the filter.

 

Wut does 5w/30 mean? wut does 5w stand for n wut does the 30 mean? I only ask because Im trying to understand y in this thread the use of 5w/30 is the best when in the manual it say 5w/20. Just for informational usage.

 

and the manual says 5w30 for best all season protection.

 

the manual says 5w30 or 10w30. and I am not going to explain what they mean again sorry. Google is your friend.

 

I have a 98 with 100k miles and I'm gonna change the oil this weekend.
I went into kragen today and they gave me 10w-40.
and my engine leaks 5-10 drops everywhere I park. so is this the best oil for my engine?

 

in your warm climate 10w40 is fine i wouldent use any thicker
oil why not repaire the leak or find out where its leaking from?

 

well because it's gonna cost about $500 and there's no guarantee that it will be fixed.
you'll find a lot of maximas here with the same problem.
and i don't mind it anymore since the driveway is already messed up from the previous 96 maxima with the same problem.

 

Using a 10w-40 versus a 10w-30 or 5w-30 will really not make much difference when it comes to your leak. Typical causes of leaks are 1) long-term neglect, 2) use of inexpensive oil that allowed the engine to run hot and damage/harden the seals, 3) use of inexpensive oil that is not formulated properly to allow the seals to swell and maintain their integrity.

Understand the cost to repair, but as jbrags offered, it would be nice to know where the leak is coming from so you determine the best course of action.