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What oil and oil filter should I use? Can I switch to synthetic? What viscosity?

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What oil and oil filter should I use? Can I switch to synthetic? What viscosity?

Old 12-19-2004, 06:16 AM
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Since I'm a distributor. And in Pa. You can get a 5 Gallon Jug from me for $80 + S&H That is about $5 a quart.
Last time I checked, AmsOil was about $8
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Old 12-19-2004, 08:46 AM
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just to make sure i have this right the Mobil M1-105 will fit an 02 Max?
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:50 PM
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Some guy on this forum is selling Amsoil motor oil for a little less than $5 a quart and a little more than $5 a quart on the internet plus shipping. correct me if I am wrong, It appears that all synthetic oil is about $5 range.


Originally Posted by lubricity
Since I'm a distributor. And in Pa. You can get a 5 Gallon Jug from me for $80 + S&H That is about $5 a quart.
Last time I checked, AmsOil was about $8
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Old 12-20-2004, 03:49 PM
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Lubricity, I don't find your post very informative at all. The oil analysis spreadsheet on this forum and the large one located on bobistheoilguys forum are the largest on the internet. You claimed that RP is "TWICE" as good as say Amsoil, but every analisys shows a different story. There is no oil out there that is twice as good as M1 or Amsoil. Amsoil is generally considered the best oil available. Numerous oil analysis results confirm this. Amsoil 0w-30 and 5-w30, while showing the lowest metal wear, does seem to have a problem with thickening over extended drain intervals. Thickening doesn't hurt anything except gas mileage. M1 shows higher metal wear, but retains it's viscosity over extended drain intervals. I feel your adding to the myth column instead of posting legitimate information. Bill, talkinghorse and iwannabmw on maxima.org are extremely knowledgeable, honest and usually back up there remarks with documented research. Please provide us research showing your claim that RP is twice as good as Amsoil. While your at it, provide us with research showing any oil available that's better than Amsoil, Mobil 1 and Redline. This research must be conducted by an independant reputable source and not the company or companies your pushing oil for.

I get Amsoil on this forum for around $5 a quart shipped to my house overnight delivery. I can get Mobil 1 for $3.98 a quart at Target.
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Old 12-22-2004, 05:34 AM
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just to be sure the M1-105 will fit on an 02 max?
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by compnurd2K2MAX
just to be sure the M1-105 will fit on an 02 max?
Yes it will. It's what I use.
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Old 12-22-2004, 05:16 PM
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http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html
Check out this comprehensive oil study 1 year and 14K miles on Amsoil.
I bought my Amsoil from Talkinghorse back in the spring and he was great to do business with, got 12 quarts for $52.20+ shipping and 2 oil filters. I only went 8500 miles on my first Amsoil interval, the main reason was the thickening talked about in the above link and with winter coming wanted some good fresh Amsoil.
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Old 12-23-2004, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Virus
Yes it will. It's what I use.

ok just wanted to make sure because that filter is like 3 times the size of the m1-108
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Old 12-31-2004, 06:31 AM
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quick question i have a 01 maxima and I just got the car, it has 90k on it already. I dont know the history of the car, and wanted to do a full fluid change drain the works. What would you guy suggest? go with mobil 1 syn or not to put syn cuz I'm not sure if the engine was getting syn from the last owner I dont want to mess up the engine in some way, as well what filter is good for 5th gen.????
thanks
happy new year to all.....
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Old 12-31-2004, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JoE'sMaX01
quick question i have a 01 maxima and I just got the car, it has 90k on it already. I dont know the history of the car, and wanted to do a full fluid change drain the works. What would you guy suggest? go with mobil 1 syn or not to put syn cuz I'm not sure if the engine was getting syn from the last owner I dont want to mess up the engine in some way, as well what filter is good for 5th gen.????
thanks
happy new year to all.....

I had the same question a few months back after purchasing my AE. I went ahead and bought a bottle of Auto-Rx treatment and ran that through the crankcase to completely clean out and condition the entire system. I decided I wanted to do this just to alleviate any problems I might have had with deposits and such before I switched over to Mobil 1. Things seem to be running just great, thus I would suggest you consider this.
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Old 12-31-2004, 08:26 AM
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Thanks, I fig to flush out the system before just to make sure. I appericate the quick response

Have a happy and healthy!!!!
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Old 12-31-2004, 05:55 PM
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That's a tough question. The oil won't hurt anything. If the car wasn't properly maintained, Synthetic oil will clean out the engine pretty good and if there is a leak present, it'll find it. Again, it's not the oils fault. The leak was already there, but sludged up with dino oil. Chances of this are pretty low however. You would really have to neglect the car.
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:59 PM
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This is a great thread. We need more like this. I thought oil was oil but after reading this, Im going to switch to synthetic. I just am not sure which brand with all of this hoo haa about RP and amsoil and mobil 1.
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Old 01-05-2005, 03:30 AM
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You can't go wrong with any of them.
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Old 01-06-2005, 11:30 AM
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Does the Napa Gold filter come under the "Recommended" or "To Avoid" filters ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:32 PM
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all napa oil filters are made by WIX...A excellent oil filter..i would recommend a wix filter over oem..Purlatoer filters are also good.but Wix are top of the line
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Old 03-03-2005, 07:10 AM
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I have 46,000 miles on my 3.5L, Live in chitown so temps are pretty cold. Im a little weary of switching to synthetic, but my car isnt burning any oil.

Is 5w30 mobil 1 Appropriate, I havent read anything about the new 15,000 mile synthetic, but it doesnt make sense to me without changing the filter...
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Old 03-18-2005, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by flthere
Does the Napa Gold filter come under the "Recommended" or "To Avoid" filters ?

Thanks.

We don't have enough analysis data for a conclusion. I use Napa Golds in other non-Maxima applications without issue. There is a significant quality difference between Napa Silver and Napa Gold lines, so I would recommend the Gold version.
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Old 03-19-2005, 11:55 AM
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i'm using the NAPA 51356, no start up noises etc.

what i was considering is the 'oversize' Napa 51334. height 4.069", o.d. 3.242.
anybody else using this & any rubbing or other issues?
ps. tried googling for x-ref to the MI-105 for size, couldn't find anything
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:03 AM
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Hello all, I jus picked up an 03 Maxima with 12k miles. I plan on using amsoil and wix filter. Can anyone confirm the filter # of wix 51356.

*Edit* And what would good prices be on each of these?

Thank You
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Old 03-29-2005, 06:15 PM
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Synthetic is a good bet on any lower mileage car.I have heard that it does contribute to leaks on higher mileage cars though.
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:34 PM
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the the question is, what denotes high mileage, and when does one go from syn to conventional when car has aged?
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:12 PM
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I've been using K&N oil filters for a while and the work great. You can get them at autozone for $11.99 or online for $8 to $9
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Old 03-31-2005, 09:18 PM
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Also, I just switched from Mobile 1 full synthetic (which I have used for a while) to MaxLife full synthetic when I changed my oil last week. My car is just about to turn 75k and I thought I would give it a go because of the leakage issue (although I haven't had any problems yet). I'll post the results in a couple of months.
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Old 04-04-2005, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by FishyMan
i am curious exactly when and how i can ck my oil level. i've heard diff't things.

i am using 100% syn and some people told me that you ck at the MORNING after a whole night's rest.

or should i ck after i run it to operating temp then ck it that way?

i am just curious for the exact reading, cuz i did an oil change a while back w/ about 4 quarts and just curious if i need to top off or see what the correct way is of reading the dip stick.

i heard diff't things since i am using syntehtic.

thanks..
I too am wondering about this. Can anyone clarify the correct oil change procedure? I would think that both ways are accurate as long as you read from the correct end of the dipstick, ie. hot or cold. Can anyone elaborate? Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2005, 01:53 AM
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I've been using Mobil 1 full synthetic for about a year and a half now and have no complaints so far. I made the switch from dino to full synthetic oil fairly soon after I discovered them. I got my car w/ around 74,000 miles on it and made the switch some time around 85,000. I THINK I made the switch fairly abruptly cuz I went from dino, to full synthetic after 1 oil change w/ synthetic mix. Now M1 full synthetic is all I use. I was warned about possible oil leaks cuz of the mileage on my engine but haven't found any yet. I know it won't help me much now, but did I do any harm by making the switch so fast? I just went w/ the Tires Plus guy's recommendation to switch to synthetic mix b4 goin' full synthetic and it seemed like it made sense. This info will help me greatly w/ my next Max. lol
Anyway, I recently switched from a Tires Plus filter to a M1 M-110 filter. Is this the best filter to be using or is the 105 or 108 better? I'm sorry but I didn't clearly understand which one(s) you guys said were better out of the 105, 108 and 110. Can someone comment on this?
I've also experienced a strange occurance since then that I haven't been able to trace til now, that may or may not have anything to do w/ the filter change. Sometimes while turning (usually left) and accelerating I hear a clicking or rattling noise that can only be described as something very similar to but NOT the same as a CV boot click. Does anyone think this could have something to do w/ the filter change? I've heard this phenomenon described on here b4 but I don't think I've ever read of a fix for it. Can someone forward me to it if it exists? Thanks much.

p.s. The only other thing I can think of that may be causing this is my torn right inner tie rod boot and I've just had it replaced and re-oiled and I still hear the noise but more faintly now. It also seems like none of the mechanics I try to show it to are able to hear it because it comes and goes intermittently. Go figure right!?!

Sorry for the long post.
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Old 04-04-2005, 01:54 AM
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Is the Wix brand worth the switch from a M1 M-110 or any other M1 oil filter? How much are they? I got the M1 for like $9.99 at Auto Zone.
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Old 04-04-2005, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lubricity
...Best filter: WIX. Not by my say so. But from several studies done by organizations.
It's funny that he said this cuz just today I saw a commercial about how Wix is the only brand of oil filter used in NASCAR. hmmm... Coincidence?
Now I realize that this commercial presents no proof as it relates to our specific engine(s), driving habits, oil change intervals, oils used, etc., etc. but as far as scientific variables go, wouldn't one think that NASCAR provides a good combination of the extremes for each? Just a thought. Comments and suggestions welcomed as usual.
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
I've used Fram Tough Guard filter few times. I just like the grip. Makes changing oil job bit easier.
Fram was rated the worst filter by a review that I read. It has a cheap bypass valve and carboard end caps. I personally like the Nissan OEM, what is it 9E000 or something like that. Mobil 1 is probably marginally better, but who wants to spend $10 for an oil filter when you can get an OEM under $5?
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Old 04-10-2005, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxesRule
It's funny that he said this cuz just today I saw a commercial about how Wix is the only brand of oil filter used in NASCAR. hmmm... Coincidence?
Now I realize that this commercial presents no proof as it relates to our specific engine(s), driving habits, oil change intervals, oils used, etc., etc. but as far as scientific variables go, wouldn't one think that NASCAR provides a good combination of the extremes for each? Just a thought. Comments and suggestions welcomed as usual.
Wix is made by Dana Corp. It is a good filter. It has metal end caps, and uses a coil, not a leaf spring, at the top of the cartridge. Dana makes NAPA filters and other ones for OEM.

But again, why fool around when OEM is one of the best to begin with, and has a good price?
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:16 AM
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I don't know if this was posted or not but this site has a nice review of various oil filters. Even though he's comparing filters for a mazda, I think the information on the site is useful.

Here's the link:

Link to Oil Filter Comparison
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:09 AM
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why 10k chane interval

why 10k change intervl for amsoil synthetic (0w-30 2000 series). The manufacturer touts 35k. i was going to do 25k with filter change at 12.5.

g
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Old 04-18-2005, 03:05 PM
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Hey guys and gals.
I was wondering if anyone can tell me if switching back to regular oil from synthetic might cause an issue?
Thanks
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:20 PM
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i dont think there'd be an issue.. just keep w/ the changes...
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Old 05-08-2005, 06:10 AM
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i live in NYC... we know how the weather is....

ive been using 10w 30 mobile 1 syntheic .... = ( i know beofre poeple call me stupid... i should start using 5w 30...? and waht should i do before this.....? switching to the 5w 30?

or is the 10w30 okay..my car has 100884 miles on it... (i memorize it when i leave the car.. weird habbit..) also ive got 5 quarts of 10w 30synth mobile sitting here in my house.. cuase i get 6 qts for 25$ at costco... so after 5 changes i get 1 change free whohoo....

but yea 5w30?
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:12 PM
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yes, 5w30 is for NYers. you can for the mix 10w with 5w warm seasons or use up the 10w on the warmer seasons.
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Old 05-19-2005, 11:29 AM
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Should i switch to synthetic now?

i bought my car at 55k miles on it (I35), should i switch to mobile one synthetic oil now?
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Old 05-21-2005, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by zooey
Synthetic is a good bet on any lower mileage car.I have heard that it does contribute to leaks on higher mileage cars though.

I have switched my last 2 cars to synthetic at about 40k when I bought them. There is NO change in leaks with synthetic. It's mostly old wives tails back fromt he 70's with early synthetics and crappy old seal technology. I have found the Amsoil filter to be the best to use with the oil, as well as thier air filter. Just make sure you buy 2 oil fitlers since you should change the oil filter about 1/2 way through the cycle if you are going to go 15 to 25k miles.

The only reason not to switch to synthetic is that it costs $4-7 a quart, but that reason pales when you consider the cost and time lost due to changing every 3000 miles..... not to mention the milage and hp difference. (my 98 max SE gained 1-2 mpg ave. with Amsoil in the trans.)


Almost forgot, Amsoil makes an engine flush for the first change from dino oil to synthetic, I strongly rec. you use it.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by MaxesRule
I've been using Mobil 1 full synthetic for about a year and a half now and have no complaints so far. I made the switch from dino to full synthetic oil fairly soon after I discovered them. I got my car w/ around 74,000 miles on it and made the switch some time around 85,000. I THINK I made the switch fairly abruptly cuz I went from dino, to full synthetic after 1 oil change w/ synthetic mix. Now M1 full synthetic is all I use. I was warned about possible oil leaks cuz of the mileage on my engine but haven't found any yet. I know it won't help me much now, but did I do any harm by making the switch so fast? I just went w/ the Tires Plus guy's recommendation to switch to synthetic mix b4 goin' full synthetic and it seemed like it made sense. This info will help me greatly w/ my next Max. lol
Anyway, I recently switched from a Tires Plus filter to a M1 M-110 filter. Is this the best filter to be using or is the 105 or 108 better? I'm sorry but I didn't clearly understand which one(s) you guys said were better out of the 105, 108 and 110. Can someone comment on this?
I've also experienced a strange occurance since then that I haven't been able to trace til now, that may or may not have anything to do w/ the filter change. Sometimes while turning (usually left) and accelerating I hear a clicking or rattling noise that can only be described as something very similar to but NOT the same as a CV boot click. Does anyone think this could have something to do w/ the filter change? I've heard this phenomenon described on here b4 but I don't think I've ever read of a fix for it. Can someone forward me to it if it exists? Thanks much.

p.s. The only other thing I can think of that may be causing this is my torn right inner tie rod boot and I've just had it replaced and re-oiled and I still hear the noise but more faintly now. It also seems like none of the mechanics I try to show it to are able to hear it because it comes and goes intermittently. Go figure right!?!

Sorry for the long post.

This "rubbing" complaint has only been attributed to the larger VQ35 engine with some "oversized" filters, but not the Napa one you are using. Having owned a '99 Max and used the now discontinued STP S6941 long and oversized oil filter, I had no such issues.


Make sure your splash shields in that area are all secured properly. It's possible a really wide (225/235) front tire when turning at a sharp radius could rub a splash shield and hit a longer than usual oil filter, but that is really reaching to me.
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Old 05-23-2005, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by ggodina
why 10k change intervl for amsoil synthetic (0w-30 2000 series). The manufacturer touts 35k. i was going to do 25k with filter change at 12.5.

g

Go take a look at the spreadsheet for my dad's 99TL after 22k and that should shy you away from going such intervals between changes.....
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