What oil and oil filter should I use? Can I switch to synthetic? What viscosity?
08-18-2011, 01:30 PM
#641
How important is it that I use a Nissan brand filter only in a 4th gen? Because I keep hearing it can cause all sorts of problems if you don't with your timing chain. But no real valid commentary towards it. I used to use stricly OEM filter from the dealer, then for the last 4 oil changes I let the mechanic throw in whatever oil filter he uses. Now, my timing chain is screwed and bye bye 95SE because it doesn't warrant a swap. Coincidence?
08-18-2011, 03:55 PM
#642
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Treat your maxima like you do to your wife or GF with my respect to all the previous
....At around 10k miles switch to synthetic Amsoil 0w30 (buy from talkinghorse here in the forums or online from amsoil.com)if you live in cold weather or 5w30 if not...that's all..And use Mobil 1 filters .. Change your oil by yourself or go to your mech buddy shop (backyard mechanics) and he would chanrge you 10-20$ for the most..Don't go to the stealerghip...
Hope this helps..
....At around 10k miles switch to synthetic Amsoil 0w30 (buy from talkinghorse here in the forums or online from amsoil.com)if you live in cold weather or 5w30 if not...that's all..And use Mobil 1 filters .. Change your oil by yourself or go to your mech buddy shop (backyard mechanics) and he would chanrge you 10-20$ for the most..Don't go to the stealerghip...Hope this helps..
http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...ubricants.html
or www.lubedealer.com/lonestarlubes
09-27-2011, 02:30 PM
#645
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
I've been using purolator one oil filters for some time now. I've always thought them to be good and readily available. i know over time companies change, but can someone verify?
Thanks
11-02-2011, 05:19 PM
#646
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 4
Please, could you guys help me with oil issue?
My '95 maxima VQ30, is making noises (toc toc toc) on cold starts.... Looks like rod noise... after 10 seconds, the noise go away....
I'm using 10w30 as the manual recommends... But I think this was not a good choice to the engine due our temperature in Brazil...
Where I live, some times, temperature reaches 50F.... and some times 70F.... (in the morning)....
Please, what type of oil should I use?
Is it a good a idea, change to 20w50?
Thanks,
Bruno
My '95 maxima VQ30, is making noises (toc toc toc) on cold starts.... Looks like rod noise... after 10 seconds, the noise go away....
I'm using 10w30 as the manual recommends... But I think this was not a good choice to the engine due our temperature in Brazil...
Where I live, some times, temperature reaches 50F.... and some times 70F.... (in the morning)....
Please, what type of oil should I use?
Is it a good a idea, change to 20w50?
Thanks,
Bruno
11-02-2011, 07:26 PM
#647
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 33
Please, could you guys help me with oil issue?
My '95 maxima VQ30, is making noises (toc toc toc) on cold starts.... Looks like rod noise... after 10 seconds, the noise go away....
I'm using 10w30 as the manual recommends... But I think this was not a good choice to the engine due our temperature in Brazil...
Where I live, some times, temperature reaches 50F.... and some times 70F.... (in the morning)....
Please, what type of oil should I use?
Is it a good a idea, change to 20w50?
Thanks,
Bruno
My '95 maxima VQ30, is making noises (toc toc toc) on cold starts.... Looks like rod noise... after 10 seconds, the noise go away....
I'm using 10w30 as the manual recommends... But I think this was not a good choice to the engine due our temperature in Brazil...
Where I live, some times, temperature reaches 50F.... and some times 70F.... (in the morning)....
Please, what type of oil should I use?
Is it a good a idea, change to 20w50?
Thanks,
Bruno
11-03-2011, 12:21 AM
#648
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,994
I don't think that Nissan recommends an oil heavier than 10W30 for these V6 engines.
If you engine is terribly worn and burns a lot of oil, you could go to a heavier oil, but I would stick with 10W30.
If you engine is terribly worn and burns a lot of oil, you could go to a heavier oil, but I would stick with 10W30.
02-01-2012, 02:00 PM
#650
forgot to add, the car has 150,000 miles on it.. if regular oil was used, is it ok to switch to synthetic now, or should i keep using regular?
02-01-2012, 03:19 PM
#651
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Location: Houston, TX, USA
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I've heard differing opinions on this subject, but most mechanics say as long as it's changed on a regular (3000 mile) schedule, regular oils should be fine. If you are concerned about changing oils, I have done this before. Do a complete oil change with whatever oil you plan to use. Drive the car a week or two, but no more than 500 miles, and do another complete oil change. I have done this over the years with different makes and models and have never had any bad results. If you change your own oil, this is not a real expensive thing to try. You're getting whatever remnants of the old oil out in pretty short order.
02-01-2012, 03:25 PM
#652
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I've heard differing opinions on this subject, but most mechanics say as long as it's changed on a regular (3000 mile) schedule, regular oils should be fine. If you are concerned about changing oils, I have done this before. Do a complete oil change with whatever oil you plan to use. Drive the car a week or two, but no more than 500 miles, and do another complete oil change. I have done this over the years with different makes and models and have never had any bad results. If you change your own oil, this is not a real expensive thing to try. You're getting whatever remnants of the old oil out in pretty short order.
Change your oil at the stated intervals and you should be fine. Save the extra penny on fixing seals.!
02-01-2012, 03:26 PM
#653
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Posts: 888
I would just stick w/ regular and a wix filter. Keep the recommended viscosity, and dont' go crazy w/ a 10w-40. or WD40
lolz
02-01-2012, 11:18 PM
#654
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Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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I've heard differing opinions on this subject, but most mechanics say as long as it's changed on a regular (3000 mile) schedule, regular oils should be fine. If you are concerned about changing oils, I have done this before. Do a complete oil change with whatever oil you plan to use. Drive the car a week or two, but no more than 500 miles, and do another complete oil change. I have done this over the years with different makes and models and have never had any bad results. If you change your own oil, this is not a real expensive thing to try. You're getting whatever remnants of the old oil out in pretty short order.
When you drain your oil sump and change your filter you still have something less than a quart of oil in the bottom of the sump. That will not be a problem with any quality motor oil you choose to put in your engine after the drain.
If you Max has 150 K miles on her, I would be reluctant to chang to synthetic.
Synthetic has the ability to find the smallest cracks and get through them - thus you are likely to start bruning more oil than you would with regular dino oil.
Finally, always remember to thoroughy shake each bottle of motor oil before you install it. This more thoroughly mixes the additives, which tend to settle to the bottom over time.
Last edited by SilverMax_04; 02-01-2012 at 11:21 PM.
02-02-2012, 07:06 AM
#655
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This is certainly extreme and not needed. You will be safe mixing any good quality motor oil with any other good quality motor oil.
When you drain your oil sump and change your filter you still have something less than a quart of oil in the bottom of the sump. That will not be a problem with any quality motor oil you choose to put in your engine after the drain.
If you Max has 150 K miles on her, I would be reluctant to change to synthetic.
Synthetic has the ability to find the smallest cracks and get through them - thus you are likely to start burning more oil than you would with regular dino oil.
Finally, always remember to thoroughly shake each bottle of motor oil before you install it. This more thoroughly mixes the additives, which tend to settle to the bottom over time.
When you drain your oil sump and change your filter you still have something less than a quart of oil in the bottom of the sump. That will not be a problem with any quality motor oil you choose to put in your engine after the drain.
If you Max has 150 K miles on her, I would be reluctant to change to synthetic.
Synthetic has the ability to find the smallest cracks and get through them - thus you are likely to start burning more oil than you would with regular dino oil.
Finally, always remember to thoroughly shake each bottle of motor oil before you install it. This more thoroughly mixes the additives, which tend to settle to the bottom over time.
02-02-2012, 11:14 PM
#656
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Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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It is excessive because it is dumb. It is gross overkill. Even changing motor oil ever 3 K miles is a little too much, but this other is extreme.
The reason you no longer need to change motor oil every 3 K miles is that the Federal Government mandated that all oil companies substantially reduce the sulfur content of gasoline - this happened about 5 years ago.
But the motor oil change industry has not gotten the word out that with substantially reduced sulfur in gasoline, the motor oil in your car does not become acidic as quickly as when gasoline contained higher levels of sulfur. It was the need to eliminate the acid that formed in car motor oil in these earlier years that required the oil change at about 3 K miles. (I did change the original motor oil that came in my Max when she was new at about 3 K miles. But after than, not that soon after that initial change.)
With sulfur almost removed from the scene, probably the biggest culprit that now degrades motor oil in an engine is dirt. So if you drive the dirt roads frequently, you may want to continue to change oil more frequently. My Nissan Owners Manual said that I could go up to 7.5 K miles before changing oil. Once I was out of warranty, I then went to 10K miles (but I use Synthetic). There is enough for us to spend our limited money on without wasting it on an unnecessary oil change.
The reason you no longer need to change motor oil every 3 K miles is that the Federal Government mandated that all oil companies substantially reduce the sulfur content of gasoline - this happened about 5 years ago.
But the motor oil change industry has not gotten the word out that with substantially reduced sulfur in gasoline, the motor oil in your car does not become acidic as quickly as when gasoline contained higher levels of sulfur. It was the need to eliminate the acid that formed in car motor oil in these earlier years that required the oil change at about 3 K miles. (I did change the original motor oil that came in my Max when she was new at about 3 K miles. But after than, not that soon after that initial change.)
With sulfur almost removed from the scene, probably the biggest culprit that now degrades motor oil in an engine is dirt. So if you drive the dirt roads frequently, you may want to continue to change oil more frequently. My Nissan Owners Manual said that I could go up to 7.5 K miles before changing oil. Once I was out of warranty, I then went to 10K miles (but I use Synthetic). There is enough for us to spend our limited money on without wasting it on an unnecessary oil change.
Last edited by SilverMax_04; 02-04-2012 at 12:00 AM.
02-03-2012, 01:31 PM
#657
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Location: Jacksonville, FL
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I love oil threads. Bob the oil guy will tell you more than you could ever hope to know about oil and such. I've always and will continue to use Shell Rotella T synthetic in my motorcycle (yes with a purolator honda civic oil filter too---oh no!) and my cars. Why? Bc it's just as effective as the big name oils (Mobil 1, Repsol for the bikes etc) and costs 1/2 to 1/3 less.
I also go 10k miles between oil changes; anything else absent mitigating circumstances is a waste. I change the m/c oil yearly since it only gets 6k a year if that.
I also go 10k miles between oil changes; anything else absent mitigating circumstances is a waste. I change the m/c oil yearly since it only gets 6k a year if that.
02-04-2012, 12:00 AM
#658
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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Since when is Shell not a major brand of motor oil? It most certainly is.
I agree with you on the 10 K mile OCI (oil change interval). The lab keeps telling me that I can go even further on my synthetic motor oil, but I believe that even the best oil filters are only good for about 10K miles.
I agree with you on the 10 K mile OCI (oil change interval). The lab keeps telling me that I can go even further on my synthetic motor oil, but I believe that even the best oil filters are only good for about 10K miles.
02-05-2012, 12:12 PM
#659
I purchased my 5th gen with 166,xxx+ miles on it, the owner showed me a full oil service history since day 1 of the car. He used nothing else but Mobile 1 oil and mobile 1 filter changed every 10,000... after I saw that I pulled my cash from my pocked and bought the car... Currently I have 185,xxx+ and I am still continuing the same oil and filter intervals... No oil consumption what so ever... and sometimes I do drive the car hard... Mobile 1 all the way... Last week Autozone had a deal on a Mobile 1 oil and Filter for $35.
Last edited by L_U_D_I_AMaxima; 02-05-2012 at 12:15 PM.
03-25-2012, 01:14 PM
#660
Has anyone tried the new Purolator Synthetic oil filter? I've been using Mobil 1 Extended performance with the PureONE oil filters. Since the Purolator Synthetic filter are designed specifically for synthetic oil, I am thinking about switching to them but cannot find them in any stores, online or at B&M.
03-25-2012, 05:30 PM
#661
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Has anyone tried the new Purolator Synthetic oil filter? I've been using Mobil 1 Extended performance with the PureONE oil filters. Since the Purolator Synthetic filter are designed specifically for synthetic oil, I am thinking about switching to them but cannot find them in any stores, online or at B&M.
The new Purolator filters are being marketed for synthetic oil because they're designed for longer service intervals...they're more efficient, they have greater capacity, and the synthetic filtering medium won't break down like a paper element will. You can use these filters with petroleum oil, but the cost might be kind of high when changed at traditional intervals...Purolator offers the standard filter and the Pure One to address that market.
Last edited by talkinghorse; 03-25-2012 at 06:13 PM.
03-26-2012, 08:42 AM
#662
No, but it appears they're adopting some of the technology that AMSOIL uses in their Ea oil filters...and they've been on the market for several years. http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2192.pdf I sell a lot of these filters to our members and people are very pleased with the performance and value.
The new Purolator filters are being marketed for synthetic oil because they're designed for longer service intervals...they're more efficient, they have greater capacity, and the synthetic filtering medium won't break down like a paper element will. You can use these filters with petroleum oil, but the cost might be kind of high when changed at traditional intervals...Purolator offers the standard filter and the Pure One to address that market.
The new Purolator filters are being marketed for synthetic oil because they're designed for longer service intervals...they're more efficient, they have greater capacity, and the synthetic filtering medium won't break down like a paper element will. You can use these filters with petroleum oil, but the cost might be kind of high when changed at traditional intervals...Purolator offers the standard filter and the Pure One to address that market.
05-08-2012, 05:41 PM
#663
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Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 42
Has anyone tried the new Purolator Synthetic oil filter? I've been using Mobil 1 Extended performance with the PureONE oil filters. Since the Purolator Synthetic filter are designed specifically for synthetic oil, I am thinking about switching to them but cannot find them in any stores, online or at B&M.
The oil in the engine was same kind and after 5000 miles, it was giving a brief clatter @ startup. It is momentary when the rpm hits 2k while cranking. Surprisingly, this disappeared after the oil change. When i start the car now, the rpm does not cross 1300 and idles at 1100-1200 mark. So satisfied.
Lets see if the filter holds up to another 5000 miles. I am hopeful that it will from all the reviews i read about 14610.
05-09-2012, 04:39 AM
#664
I saw the Purolator Synthetic oil filter for $9.xx at the local Advanced auto parts. However bought the pureone PL14610 for $5 and married it with Mobil 1 Extended performance Full Synthetic 5W30 oil. (my car is 03 SE 6spd with 145k miles on it)
The oil in the engine was same kind and after 5000 miles, it was giving a brief clatter @ startup. It is momentary when the rpm hits 2k while cranking. Surprisingly, this disappeared after the oil change. When i start the car now, the rpm does not cross 1300 and idles at 1100-1200 mark. So satisfied.
Lets see if the filter holds up to another 5000 miles. I am hopeful that it will from all the reviews i read about 14610.
The oil in the engine was same kind and after 5000 miles, it was giving a brief clatter @ startup. It is momentary when the rpm hits 2k while cranking. Surprisingly, this disappeared after the oil change. When i start the car now, the rpm does not cross 1300 and idles at 1100-1200 mark. So satisfied.
Lets see if the filter holds up to another 5000 miles. I am hopeful that it will from all the reviews i read about 14610.
05-09-2012, 07:20 AM
#665
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 42
I am planning to do the next oil change after 5k miles. So no point using a filter that is good for 10k. why kill a mosquito with a cannon? right?!!!
05-09-2012, 09:20 AM
#666
05-09-2012, 12:44 PM
#667
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Lansing MI
Posts: 42
Hello Shobuddy,
no special reason to use ep oil. Its just that my friend (the previous owner of this car) used EP and I did not want to change it. But suggestions are welcome.
I will consider a change for my next oil change if I get some good advice.
Thanks.
no special reason to use ep oil. Its just that my friend (the previous owner of this car) used EP and I did not want to change it. But suggestions are welcome.
I will consider a change for my next oil change if I get some good advice.
Thanks.
05-09-2012, 12:58 PM
#668
I use EP too but I change it at 15K miles.
05-13-2012, 06:29 AM
#669
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: richmond
Posts: 11
In reading the treads here a lot of people are using the 9e Nissan filter. When I worked at a Nissan dealership we only would put a Nissan 65 filter on any 3.5 engine no matter the car.The 9e filter were used in the trucks with a 3.1'3.3'4.0'5.6 engine. The 3.5 engines were made to run the 65 filter. I had done my changes at the shop were we used a synthetic blend oil. The type one i don't know. This time i put the Pennzoil conv. oil and engine does not like it. I am switching to the Pennzoil plat. oil instead. My main concern is my vg 3.0 has 222,620 miles on the engine.
Last edited by trdsolara; 05-13-2012 at 06:35 AM.
07-31-2012, 08:54 PM
#670
Should I switch to regular oil?
I have a 2003 Maxima SE with about 166,000 miles. I have some lifter knocking noise and was told to change my oil to 10W-30 or 40. I am currently using Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-20. I trust my friend telling me to change to the 10W-40, just would like some insight on what other people think. Also should I stay with the full synthetic or change to regular oil? I obviously want whats best for my car.
08-01-2012, 12:26 AM
#671
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado
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I have 125 K miles on my 04 and don't have the lifter noise you talk about. I am using 10W30 synthetic.
09-18-2012, 12:21 PM
#672
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 2
Just bought a 2000 GXE with 175k and am looking for oil/filter suggestions. The engine sounds and feels great, but I don't know what oil has been used in it previously or if it burns oil.
Have the Max community's opinions of the top 2-3 oils/filters changed since the OP's rankings from 2003? For my other 2 high mileage vehicles, I have used Valvoline MaxLife + PureOne filter with 6 month (5-7k) OCI, but it looks like Valvoline is not preferred here.
Have the Max community's opinions of the top 2-3 oils/filters changed since the OP's rankings from 2003? For my other 2 high mileage vehicles, I have used Valvoline MaxLife + PureOne filter with 6 month (5-7k) OCI, but it looks like Valvoline is not preferred here.
11-27-2012, 07:13 AM
#673
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I have a 2003 Maxima SE with about 166,000 miles. I have some lifter knocking noise and was told to change my oil to 10W-30 or 40. I am currently using Pennzoil Full Synthetic 5W-20. I trust my friend telling me to change to the 10W-40, just would like some insight on what other people think. Also should I stay with the full synthetic or change to regular oil? I obviously want whats best for my car.
Why are you using 20? Get that out of your engine as soon as possible......20 weight is way too low for these engines. You are probably not getting the protection you need.Stick with whats in the manual...... 5W-30.
10-07-2013, 12:17 PM
#674
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 4
I also just purchased an 08 maxima and planning my first oil change in the car, I plan on going with Mobil 1 synthetic (10-30)oil and filter and NGK iridium plugs.
Any one else use this combo? And how many quarts of oil is recommended for the 3.5 engine?
Thanks guys.
Any one else use this combo? And how many quarts of oil is recommended for the 3.5 engine?
Thanks guys.
10-14-2014, 12:10 AM
#676
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 87
Only one caveat: The 5w designation represents a very very wide range of viscosities at low temperatures, and Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5w-40 is WAY on the high end of that range. That means the oil will take longer to reach critical components on a cold start. In turn, since 80 to 90 percent of engine wear occurs in the first few moments after each cold start, you might actually get significantly more engine wear with this oil.
10-14-2014, 02:07 AM
#677
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Posts: 87
Amsoil's my first choice but just too pricey.
Last edited by progrocker; 10-15-2014 at 10:40 PM.
10-14-2014, 02:12 AM
#678
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10-15-2014, 07:59 PM
#679
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 294
Sure it's a bit pricey up front, but when you can go 15k-25k on an oil change....why not. Saves you time and money on the regular changes you'd be making with other oils. Besides, Amsoil SS is just the best. Look at the numbers.