What do you guys think about the Mobil 1 15W50 for a turbo application?
check this link out

 

Overkill, really. But if you aren't daily driving or are heavily modified it might be worth a look. I would just stick with 10W/30 and do analyses to trend wear rates accurately. I then might switch to a 15W/50 if analyses consistently showed elevated wear.

 

STP S6941 is to be avoided? Whoops... looks like I need to buy a supply of OEM oil filters. I've used them (purchased from Autozone) consistently since I bought the car last June.

 

That really depends on when the old stock is depleted......since they've switched production, I don't want to recommend it until one is torn apart.



My local AutoZones still have a few.....I can tell if they are old or new by looking at the top of the cap. If it says "Product of USA", it's most likely a newer design. If it's blank or only has letters/numbers, it is still old stock.

 

So you mean the newer design is bad (produced in Mexico), yet they put "Product of USA" on it for some dumb reason? (i.e. "Product of USA" should be avoided, but the blank/numbered ones are the old ones not made in Mexico, and are recommended?)

 

Hi guyz!
Thanks for sharing info like this. Educates people like me ( don't know a lot but want to learn).
Here is my question: I have a 92 Maxima SE (that burns oil!) with 145K.Can I use Mobil1 Synthetic or it ot is is too late(waste of $$)?If not what kind of regular oil do you recommend.
What kind of filter is good for my situation?
If I can switch, do I need (or do you recommend) an engine flush?
Thank you your answer.

 

Question, on bobistheoilguy site their UOA's with the VQ35DE engine. Seem to be getting better results with Mobil 1 10w30 versus the 5w30 and the German Castrol 0w30 is also getting great results. The members seem to be recommending these two oils for our engines. What do you know about the Mobil 10w30 and the German Castrol in the VQ35DE ??

Thanks

 

I know plenty about the oils, but there are few results for VQ35s to begin with, let alone with Mobil 10W/30 and especially the German-synthetic Castrol.


I'm sure the German-synthetic Castrol will work well, but I don't have submitted results to base that off of. Mobil 10W/30 is a good choice as well.

 

bill, in your initial post, you said that mobil1 super syn can go for many miles, but change out the oil filter midway. is it possible to do this? it's under my impression that when you remove the oil filter, the oil will drain from there as well. excuse my newbishness, but i'm curious because i'm about to do my first oil change.

also, do you have any comments on products such as the fram sure drain?

 

You're going to lose the oil that is in the filter, so you'll have to top off with some more.

That amount will vary, depending upon the filter you use. I don't know off hand how much the M-105 will need, I just switched to synthetic, and haven't done my 1/2 interval filter change. When I do, I'll drop the filter into a pan, get out as much oil as possible, measure it, and top off appropriately.

 

It's ok to switch to synthetic oil at high mileage, isn't it? My car has 134k on it, I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic at 130k and I'm about to do another oil change. Just making sure I'm not hurting anything.

 

Mobil 1 synthetic and M1 filter here

 

What filter I use.....


Oil....

 

I have an o4 max SL that I have put Amsoil 30 weight in. I also use the 13 brand of the filter since this is what amsoil recommends. I put this in my car at 3500 miles or so and the car is running great at 5K.

Wanted to know why recommend the 20 model of amsoil for the filter versus their recommendation of 13.

Thanks,

David

 

bill99gxe

Is it really possible to use the Amsoil TSO Series 2000 0W/30 Synthetic and just change the filter at 12,500-mile or six-month intervals as Amisol recomends?

For me that would be 1 oil change and 2 filter changes a year that just sounds to good to be true!

Thanks for all of your research its been a big help.

Vincel.

 

best oil filter for 3rd GEN VG??????
I bought a nippon one, and it looks exactly like the oem one from nissan ( the light blue one)

 

I call BS... do you or does anyone else have hard data to back up this claim? The 65F00 is also a Nissan filter and is used in the B14 variant of the SR20DE engine. The SR20 is very prone to oil starvation issues and I have not heard one problem as a result of the filter and it's construction. I personally find it hard to believe that the 65F00 is poorly constructed as you claim. I have one of each filter (the 9E000 and the 65F00) and will be hopefully cutting them apart soon to clear this up for you guys. I have the 65F00 installed in a 2002 right now and have put it through a BIT of testing and there haven't been any problems to speak of. If there are, you will all be the first to know. I see you mention several times throughout this thread that someone should not jump to conclusions and particularly not to base a finding on 'feel' or what someone said but rather backed up tried and true data. I see nothing of the sort disproving the Nissan 65F00. If there is something, I'd love to see it

 

I've been using the 65F00 since the beginning and now have 35,000 miles. Oil analysis at 29,000 showed excellent results with 5000 miles oil changes (synthetic 5W-30 used after 10,000 miles). I'll be doing another oil anlaysis in a few weeks.

 

I used a Nippon Oil filter for my last oil change, and it looks/weighs EXACTLY like the Nissan filter from the dealer. I would like to cut both of them open and compare the difference, since the nissan filter is twice the price of the the nippon. How do I cut open the filter????? Anybody wanna do it... i can mail both to you...

 

I'm always getting the oil change done at Jiffy Lube and I guess they put Pennzoil oil and filter. Are they okk ?!?

Thanks

 

i didnt read the mobil m105 not fitting on my vq30 and bought one and went to installl it in and was like ...wtf??? the filter was jsut a few mm too big, took a dremel and its fits like a charm, a lil mod is needed but only like 5 min extra of work

 

What, exactly, did you take a Dremel TO?

 

engine about 1-2 mm made it fit doubt it will cause any prob if it does i ll tell u later

 

You are being oblique goodhead.

 

its hard to explain without pictures... but once you try to install the filter it very obvious as the filter edge rubs again this piece of the engine that sticks out and prevents the filter from goign in all the way , i didnt notice the rubbing at first so i keep trying to twist it in like a dumbass then when i niticed it and noticed its only a a lil bit that was making it not fit i said minds as well seeing as i already bought the filter and all. just cover the opeing to the oil filter on the engine if you decide to do it so the metal shavign wont get in there

and jsut for you

where i circled in red, ontop of that part is where you haveto shave to make the filter fit, again its very clear when you have the filter and trying to install


sorry dotn have a better pic, took it off that canadian diy maxima site , great
site btw, and i had to look that word up lol damn fancy words

 

It should also be made known that if your car has the slightest leak, Mobil 1 will find it and make it seem worse than it really is. Switching to another synthetic won't leak so much, especially Castrol (Even with sub par results and shady marketing)Just don't go over 3k on it. I'm using (Valvoline) Max Life Synthetic for the first time in my Mustang, going to try it on my Maxima next change.

 

Mobil 1 is my favorite so far, it's just a shame it leaks like it does on my higher mileage cars.

 

I just ordered a treatment of Auto RX and will complete that process once I get it. It was recommended that since I just purchased my Max with 47k miles on it, and I had no idea as to how well the engine was taken care of prior to me having it, that running the auto rx through would be a good idea.....and then switch to synthetic after that.

 

Thanks for the picture goodhead. I went to Auto Zone and compared the Mobile 1 MT-105 and MT-110 filters, and with the aid of the picture, I now understand. The MT-105 is larger in diameter, and will not fit because of that piece of steel protruding out there.

What kind of bit did you use on the Dremel? Was it one of those "abrasive" bits?

 

I just bought an 97 maxima gle w/ 140k. History says it's been using vavoline... What should I do?

 

Use any damn oil you want, but I'd recommend synthetic. Anything but Valvoline.

 

my mechanic puts 76 oil in mine and a filter (dont know what its called its a white and blue box), motor seems to like it

 

After reading this thread I think I am going with either Castrol GTX or Mobil 1 oil and a Mobil 1 filter.

I have a 05' Maxima with the 3.5 and will be changing the oil for the first time at 1200 miles after the break in.

I have 2 questions.

Is the 05 parts the same as the 04?

Does anyone have the part# for the filter for my car?

Thanks!

 

Wheeeeeeeee!!

Found this auction on ebay and jumped on it!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=7937596271

That's what I am talking about!

 

Depending on your area, Autozone sells those for 7.99 a piece.

 

Well boys and girls, as Popeye once said, " I can't stands anymore!"
I have a lubricant company and do over 100 oil analsys a month. And there is some good info and some bull here.
FIRST OIL:
I sell many brands so I'm not going to be partial to one. And I won't benifit anyway.
Oil is made up of two parts. The base oil and the additive package. If you start with a good base oil, it will make a good oil. ALL major manufactures used to use crap base oil. Now they are "SUPPOSED" to use a better base oil to pass the new spec. There are oils being questioned right now. Because they passed the new spec. But when some oil was pulled from the shelf, it could not pass the spec (4 times). So are the oil companies playing games? YES It revolves around price. The average person walks into K-Mart. A wall of oil is there. He buys the cheapest. So you being the exec. of Maxima Oil Co. will not put $.20 cents more per quart in your oil, why, because it won't sell. Remember, ALL the majors do not want to be in the lubricate oil business. Including Mobil, exxon, Vavoline, etc. There is no money in it.
Most manufactures have "ONE" good oil in their line-up. But they all have lots of crap oil. If the seal on the back says it passes the "C" spec as well as the "S" spec required by car manufactures. It is a better oil.
Now as for specific oils. I strongly disagree with the list posted in the beginning of this thread. Castrol GTX, give me a break! Castrol Syntec has it all over GTX. Ams Oil, ok, but WAY over priced for the qulality. Mobil 1, ok, but it thins out quickly. Vavoline synthetic an ok oil. There are only two SUPERIOR mineral oils out there. Texas Rifinery and Lubrication Engineeres. Both can not be bought at retail centers. As for price, cost is very close to the synthetics on the market. But both perform as well or sometimes BETTER than the synthetics. Exception is high and low temps. Both not a concern unless you live north of the border.
As for the NEW high miles oils. Just a ploy to get IDIOTS to buy their products.
Synthetics: If you want max HP, there is only one choice-Royal Purple. It is HALF the cost of AmsOil and TWICE as good. If you run any of the following synthetis: RP, AmsOil, Mobil1, Vavoline, Penz, Redline, etc. You will be ok. It is a matter of availability and which Church you go to.
Swithing to synthetics. No problem. The only concern is if you switch a motor with more than 20,000 miles over. Especially if you or the previous owner was using cheap oil. It may consume some oil in the beginning. NOT A PROBLEM. It is cleaning the ring lands out. The better oils will have a higher "Solventcy" or the ability to clean the garbage build up in the motor. Until this process is done, depending how you drive, it will consume some. So just check you oil frequently.
As for filters. The only filter to NOT use is FRAM. No exception here. They colapse internally. You can only see it once the filter is off. And that is buy looking in the center of the filter. We blew 3 motors in this area. (They payed to fix them) It is spelled out in a couple farm equipment owners manuals that it VOIDS the warrentee if a Fram is used. So if they print it in there manuals, it is SUPSTANTIAL.
Best filter: WIX. Not by my say so. But from several studies done by organizations.
The question of changing a filter and not the oil. It is a well known practice. I put on 45,000 miles a year. I run my oil 20,000 miles. Changing a filter at 5, 10, 15,000 miles. I have Tractor and Trailers going 80,000 miles between changes. Can this be done with the average oils, NO. No matter what oil you use. It needs to stay clean. If you put and oil in and it stays "clean looking" for a long time. It isn't working. It shold become blackish soon. That is a signal the additive package is working. By scrubbing the engine internals and carring the dirt to the filter.
With this said, I hope it clears up some myths. If you guys and gals would like anymore info, just ask. I usually run my motors about 180,000 miles, except for the only **** motor nissan built the dohc Gen 3. That suck the front washer off the adjuster and grinds up the tining chain. No oil can help that.
Have a nice holiday
Rich

 

bill99gxe,

You've got me confused. In the first post of this thread ya say to avoid the Bosch 3323 filter but in the 4th post you state it's better than the OEM, and OEM seems to be a forum favorite. Let's assume all filters being discussed were made last week.

 

You can't beat the OEM Filter (9E000) unless you choose to use the bigger Mobil 1 105. Those are the only two filters worth going near my engine!

 

i am curious exactly when and how i can ck my oil level. i've heard diff't things.

i am using 100% syn and some people told me that you ck at the MORNING after a whole night's rest.

or should i ck after i run it to operating temp then ck it that way?

i am just curious for the exact reading, cuz i did an oil change a while back w/ about 4 quarts and just curious if i need to top off or see what the correct way is of reading the dip stick.

i heard diff't things since i am using syntehtic.

thanks..

 

i'm curious where you buy RP at half the cost of Amsoil? both on the net are about the same price. at retail stores, i assume it's at $5 range motor oil because it's syn.