NY 95 VQ30DE

I just bought a 95 max with 114k on it. I have no idea whats in it, and I dont have a manual...so i'm not sure what kind of oil to use. Ill be driving it from Kentucky at the end of the summer to Upstate NY, so it will be experiencing both a warm summer and a cold winter. Any help on what would be best to use is appreciated.

S00NR1

iTrader: (3)

Since you aren't sure what has been in the vehicle, I would definitely recommend an Auto-Rx treatment. Following that I would use Castrol GTX 5w-30 or 10w-30.

A33Black

I live in Miami have a 2000 Maxima SE and am used to using 10W-40 conventional oil year round.
The USA FSM states this viscosity is okay if temps are above 0 degrees F year round (which it is).

Upon reading the European FSM for same (VQ30), it states that 20W-50 is permissable if all temps are above 14 degrees F.

In fact, the graph in the Euro FSM shows 5W-30 allowed only if temps stay below 59 Degrees F.

So I was thinking about switching to 20W-50 here in Miami since it's so warm, although the USA FSM states that 10W-40 is the highest vis to use.

Anyone know why the European FSM allows 20W-50 for hot areas?

Yohann

There is no real reason to increase the viscosity above what the car was designed for. You are best off with the range Nissan specified and switching to a high-grade synthetic. Amzoil also makes a flush that you add to the existing oil to help clean out residue and deposits left by the mineral oil. You add it, run the engine for 10-15 min then drain and replace with synthetic. I think Amzoil recommends that you replace the filter with a cheap filter first, then throw it away with the original old one when you install the new oil and filter. I think I mentioned in an earlier thread that my fans had failed some time ago and despite the Texas heat I didn't know until it effected the air conditioning. Even with no fans I could not get the engine to read even slightly above normal range. I tried excessive idling and lugging the engine at low speed, even flooring it with the brake on did nothing to the temperture. My oil is the standard Amzoil 10-30. YOu simply can't go wrong with synthetic, especially in hot states like Texas. The reverse is true as well for cold states, if you have ever tried to start a car at 20-40 below zero, even with a good battery......you know what I mean. Having synthetic could mean the difference between driving and walking to get jumper cables.

A33Black

I would defintely use what Nissan specs. Problem is, Nissan says different things for year round warm climate conditions depending on location:
USA: 10W-40
Europe: 20W-50

I will be using conventional oil since I do all highway and 3K intervals.

Bottom line, I found it interesting that Nissan has different viscosity recommendations for USA and Europe.

Can I use 20W-50 for Miami heat, per European FSM?

Cosmo459sx

iTrader: (3)

No mention of Quaker State?

DukeN

Silly noob question, the oil filters listed - are they good for both synthetic and regular? And do they only work with certain blends? Thanks.

* Mobil 1 M1-105 (fits VQ35DE only)
* Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 ONLY (for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
* Mobil 1 M1-110 (fits both VQ engines, but bypass valve isn't as good as M1-105 filter)
* Amsoil SDF-20 (fits both VQ engines)

steven88

iTrader: (28)

yeah i'm pretty sure u can use it with synthetic and non synthetic....an oil filter is an oil filter...besides...this is the order of popularity....not which one is the BEST

junzhang

In summer, use major brand dino (Castrol GTX let's say) with OEM filter. If you live in south see 100F every day in summer, use Mobil-1 5W-30or GC 0W-30(need to change coolant every year make sure engine block temperature is lower than 350F. In winter if you live up north, use Mobile-1 with OEM filter. If you live in Cal or Tenn, forget about Synthetic oil, use dino all year around uncless you race your vehicle WOT with 4000 up RPM. Change oil every 5000 miles (easy to remember to remove H2O, S, HC). Always check coolent and thermal sensor to make sure engine temperture is normal. For older engine, be cautious to use Mobile-1 cause your gasket is aging only if you decide to change it and use Mobile-one.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

I got 76k miles, engine works perfectly, live in NYC and from time to time rmp do go over 5k and even higher.

Which oil would you guys recommend me considering that reliability is my first concern, performance second, and cost is the last one.

What’s better higher or lower viscosity?

Why is the actual switch to synthetic oil harmful?

staticlag

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=23

Generally, viscosity is not an indicator of 'protection.' The only thing that can tell you the level of protection you are getting from a particular oil/viscosity are Used Oil Analyses (UOA)s. They allow you to track trace particles and elements in your engine over time.

As for full synthetic oils. Only two are the best, Royal Purple and Amisoil. I recommend Wix filters or Purolator 'PureOne' for oil filters.

If you are running a full synthetic like RP or Amisoil, 5w20 oil is sufficient for anywhere in the United States.

Note, that not all synthetics are created equal, the same level of shearing protection provided by the best synthetics is not standard across the board.

References? http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

steven88

iTrader: (28)

R u sure 5w-20 is fine for VQ motors?

n3985

iTrader: (36)

Another n00b question, I am about to do my first oil change myself (!) and was wondering if I can just switch to synthetic. I read the stickies and peeps said to do Auto-rx before switching. I have only 14,xxx miles on the car with the oil changed every 3,000 by dealer. I plan to use the suggested OEM 15208-9E000 filter with the OEM washer and Mobil 1 5W/30. So can I just change the oil and filter and forget about it? Also, do I need a oil filter tool? My friend told me I can just remove it with my hand.

steven88

iTrader: (28)

n3985- Yes you can drain dino and pour the synthetic without worries...No need to do any fancy **** to it....as for the 9e000 filter, good choice....i believe the vq35s come stock with 65f00 or something like that...which is a POS filter....they have a picture comparison for both the filters and u can obviously tell the 9e000 is much better build quality...

and about the oil filter wrench....no you do not need one...at least it shouldn't need one...but the dealership might have tighten it very tight which might make hand loosening very difficult....best advice I can give you...turn the steering wheel ALL THE WAY to the right...then jack up the car high enough so your whole body can fit lay under the car...then with a pair of latex gloves (they give extra grip) twist off that filter AS HARD as you can....that should do the trick if the filter is on tight

n3985

iTrader: (36)

Thanks for the help steven!

Few more things that I wanted to ask:

1. I plan to change the synthetic oil every 7,000 miles and change the filter eveyr 3,500 miles. Is this too low? too high? just right?

2. NAPA online said that the VQ35 needs 4.25 quarts of oil, is this what you guys put in? Or is 4 quarts enough?

3. What is the cheapest place to buy Mobil 1 oil online? I saw a place for $4.95/quart but wanted $9 S&H.

Thanks again!

steven88

iTrader: (28)

1. This is a good oil change interval...what kind of driving do you do? If it's mostly freeway, then 7k is nothing if u ask me...but if u want to be on the safe side, try 4-5k then send a sample to blackstone labs for an analysis....they will let u confirm if u can go 7-10k...

2. That is true...my owners manual states 4.25 as well...my current oil comes in Liters so 4L=4.25qts....but what I have noticed is, 4L doesnt necessarily get me to the top of the dipstick...I usually add another .25 just to get it to the top...i dunno I think nissan is wrong with the 4.25 factory fill

3. I believe your best bet is Walmart or Costco....they sell alot of mobil1 at the same prices u listed above except the outrageous shipping&handling....

glad to be of help...ask any more questions if u need

n3985

iTrader: (36)

I do 90% city driving aka driving 5min to and from school around twice a day. So for the oil amount, I should get 5 quartz then? Fill 4 then add another 1/4? Thanks yet again

steven88

iTrader: (28)

ouuch....90% city huh...that sounds exactly like me...well if i were you, i wouldn't necessarily jump on the 7k OCIs yet...I would do a regular 4k OCI then send a sample to blackstone labs...then have them confirm that u can go higher...

city driving breaks down the oils very quickly...especially with your short 5 minute trips from school and back....i'd stay on the safe side and have blackstone labs check out my oils before i go up to some crazy OCI...

for reference, I do 4k OCIs even with my synthetic....90% of city mileage definitely takes a toll on synthetics, alot quicker than highway miles

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

You learn alot from these stickys but can never get a simple answer. My car is a 98 GLE and I have no oil consumptions problems at all. I drive mostly in the city and have somewhat of a lead foot. I've been going to jiffy lube every 3000 miles for oil changes and I'm not exactly sure what brand they use at the moment. I will have look at the reciept. So here are a couple of yes or no answer questions.

1. Should I switch to synthetic now that I'm at 111000 miles?
2. If I do will my car start to consume oil?
3. When and if I do switch should I use a synthic blend first then move to full synthetic?
4. Will I feel any difference if I do switch?
5. Will my engine last longer?

steven88

iTrader: (28)

1. Yes 110k is fine
2. No it should not consume oil...if your car doesn't consume oil from dino, then it won't on synthetic
3. Synthetic Blends are a waste of money...just go with the full synthetic
4. Maybe a smoother engine idle...other than that, not really...the difference in feeling is pretty minimal
5. Yes it will

ajcool2

iTrader: (43)

Thank you very much. I've been looking for answers to these questions for months and always get different answers or end up confused. So I think I'll finally do the switch soon. Thanks again.

Ryan D

That's been noted with the Miata, too.. they recommend 5w20 or 10w30 for the US, and 15w40 or 20w50 everywhere else in the world. Even though all of the cars are built in the exact same place, in Japan. The best guess I've seen advanced about it is that the US has the CAFE basically influencing the manufacturers to put a 'lighter' recommendation in the US owner's manuals, not really any practical decision on Nissan/Mazda's part.

progrocker

Hi all....Just bought my '99 Max SE Limited and I'm lovin it.

Today I replaced whatever dino the dealership put in with 5 quarts of Mobil 1 SS. This thread says the oil capacity is 4.25 quarts.

Is 5 quarts too much oil that can be damaging in any way?

steven88

iTrader: (28)

I wouldn't worry too much...I ran 5qts before and it had no problems...this was when I was a noob and just dumped it in there

if your that paranoid....try removing the oil filter....it will rid some oil and probably bring it back down to 4.25qts...

6genmax

Does this apply to the '05 engine as well? I switched to Mobil1 5w30 at my first oil change (about 2,900).

Does anyone know anything about the Purolator PureOne filter?I like the Mobil1 filters, but when my local store doesn't have the size I have used the PureOne. I had read on another website (I can't find it now but if I do I will try to post a link) that took apart the filters, that the PureOne was the same filter as the Mobil1, it just had different stickers. It's about three bucks cheaper, but I would rather buy the Mobil1 filter if this isn't the case.

Thanks for all of the useful info! I learning a lot on these forums.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I noticed Amsoil has a new filter line (the EaO series) and they have a cross reference chart here-- http://www.amsoil.com/products/ea_filters/eao_xref.aspx

The SDF-20 is now either EAO-20 or EAO-21. Anyone know which one we should use?

steven88

iTrader: (28)

try PMing talkinghorse...he will know the answer

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

Since 2.5 years passed after this was posted, are there any better oil filters on the market right now?

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

I'm on the road right now, but I do have the specs/dimensions at home...I will send you the info within the next day or so...pls remind me if i forget. If I recall, the EaO 20 is a direct replacement for the SDF-20. However, the EaO13 is the recommended filter for the max and the new filter is roughly an inch longer than the previous SDF-13...this would put it about the same size as the OEM filter.

greg hazlett

iTrader: (2)

What Puralator oil filter do the 04's use and has anyone tested them? I know that they make the ford motorcraft brand for Ford and they have always been ranked high. Just wondering which one is better-pur or the OEM 9e000?

talkinghorse

iTrader: (121)

Got the info for you...

The EaO-20 and the 21 are very close in size to one another, but the primary difference is in the by-pass valve. The by-pass valve on the EaO-20 is calibrated to the same specs as the recommended EAO-13, so if you elected to substitute a filter for the 13, then the 20 would be most appropriate. Opening pressure on the EaO-20 and the EaO-13 is 8-11 psid whereas the EaO-21 is calibrated at 13-19 psid.

Filter dimensions are as follows:

EaO-13: H: 3.402"
OD: 2.685"
ByPass Valve: 8-11 psid

EaO-20: H: 3.194"
OD: 3.252"
Bypass Valve: 8-11 psid

EaO-21: H: 3.141"
OD: 3.660
ByPass Valve 13-19 psid

Hope this helps...

maximan57

Would the VQ30 prefer the M1 5w40 T&SUV? I'm using the M1 SS 5w30 right now and hearing some lifter? noise.

I wan't to stay with M1, I like the additives package.

I've heard the M1 runs slightly thinner than many others with the same weight rating, does that make the M1 5w40 actually closer to most other synthetic 5w30's or is it too heavy for the VQ30 especially in Connecticut winters.

Thanks

maximan57

If you HAVE to go to Iffy lube, check their work immediately afterward.

Pennzoil synth oil is ok, but I think their oil filters are made by Fram.

maximan57

As far as "Oils to stay away from" are you including (German Castrol 0/30)?

haasem

I have a 99 SE with 215,000 miles on it. I have been running synthetic since the car had 30k miles.

I run Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30. SDF 13. Change filter every 6 months, oil every year.

Nissan DRIVEN!

CCS2k1Max

iTrader: (2)

No. 10char

zgrm100

okay guys quick question. I have a 2K1 with ~67,000 miles on it and have been running Synthetic since about 45,000.

Thing is I have always use da FRAM filter but now I want to start changing my own oil. I just RAN mobil1 Supersyn oil for 5,000 with the fram did I @#@ up my car? In addition if I go with the mobil filter which one should I get that will fit? Also will I be able to go about 4,000 miles change the filter and go 4,000 more with a mobil filter? Thanks in advance.

FishyMan

isn't the amsoil sdf-13 for the 97 ?

elix

Nevermind...

newbie found the sticky

915Max

iTrader: (6)

I have a quick question for anyone who can help me out regarding royal purple: I always change my oil like every two months, I honestly dont think I come close to hitting 3000 miles. I've heard that Royal Purple was a good motor oil but reading this, I dont know if I should try it out-- I already bought it but I'm not sure if I should put it in. What do you all think?? Do you guys think it may harm it if I try it for those two months??