What oil and oil filter should I use? Can I switch to synthetic? What viscosity?
03-04-2006, 08:39 PM
#161
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,272
changing dino oil not even close to 3k miles is over kill and that is a waste of $$. keep in mind that syn oil is better than dino oil. syn oil in general, you can change it every 6 months or 6k miles (6/6). even though RP oil is not rated as top syn oil you still can use for every 6/6. there will be endless debate on amsoil and m1 oil. there are some tests that m1 oil is rated as 2nd best. so what, if you plan to change oil at every 6/6 interval. m1 lasts over than 6k miles and you can easily buy m1 oil at most auto store and super mart like walmart at discounted price. to answer your qustion, RP for 6/6 is fine and don't sweat it, remember use it with good oil filter.
03-08-2006, 12:36 PM
#162
I bought the Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 filters from courtesy parts last year. They don't seem to be carrying these anymore. They sell another one any opinions on the one they replaced it with. I have a 1997. New part number is: 15208-00001
04-04-2006, 03:03 PM
#164
Originally Posted by Cosmo459sx
No mention of Quaker State?
04-06-2006, 08:26 AM
#165
dang that is some good info but i have a 4th gen and i been using castrol full synthetic and a fram tough guard filter and ive never had a prob. ive been running these since 110K and im at 195K so is this going to give me probs latr on.
04-25-2006, 09:45 AM
#167
2002 maxima se
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: BUENA PARK, CA (orange county)
Posts: 1,082
I have a 01 max se and it has got 97,000 miles now, I had it on 65,000 since then I've been having the oil change from firestone they use thier own high mileage 10w30 semi synthetic with thier own company filter, I have had no problem with engine proformance or anything. But now I am planning to swich with "Mobile 1 fully syn 10w30" so in order to do that do I have to have my engine flushed or I can just buy the mobile 1 oil and filter and drain all the cheap firestone oil? how should i come up with mobile 1 any idea or advise would be appreciated. AND ALSO WHAT TYPE OF TRANY OIL SHOULD I USE TO GET BETTER PERFORMANCE??? AS I GOT 97000 MILES ON 01 MAX SE. PLEASE HELP!!!
04-26-2006, 02:01 PM
#169
2002 maxima se
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: BUENA PARK, CA (orange county)
Posts: 1,082
Originally Posted by OC guy
I have a 01 max se and it has got 97,000 miles now, I had it on 65,000 since then I've been having the oil change from firestone they use thier own high mileage 10w30 semi synthetic with thier own company filter, I have had no problem with engine proformance or anything. But now I am planning to swich with "Mobile 1 fully syn 10w30" so in order to do that do I have to have my engine flushed or I can just buy the mobile 1 oil and filter and drain all the cheap firestone oil? how should i come up with mobile 1 any idea or advise would be appreciated. AND ALSO WHAT TYPE OF TRANY OIL SHOULD I USE TO GET BETTER PERFORMANCE??? AS I GOT 97000 MILES ON 01 MAX SE. PLEASE HELP!!!
04-26-2006, 04:22 PM
#170
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,272
it's fine to change your dino oil to syn oil at your high milage. go ahead make that switch and don't sweat it. any syn oil brand can mix with any dino or syn oil. for tranny, go buy mobile syn because you can buy it anywhere. as long as you stick to your oil change interval any brand should be fine. you are asking these questions because you have been reading some folks having leaks after changing from dino to syn. those leaks were there to begin with and waiting to happen. to answer your question, go ahead and do it. lots of folks have done it. good luck.
05-19-2006, 10:05 PM
#174
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Estonia
Posts: 73
Engine OILS
Originally Posted by bill99gxe
Recommended oils for all Maxima engines, ranked in order of preference based upon my own observations:
Oils to stay away from IF going over 3,000 mile intervals:
Recommended Oil Filters for VQ engines, ranked in order of preference based upon my own observations:
Oil Filters to avoid:
- Dino and "Blend" oils:
Castrol GTX 5W/30
Chevron Supreme 5W/30
Mobil 1 Drive Clean 5W/30
Mobil 1 Drive Clean Plus 5W/30
Pennzoil PureBase 5W/30
ULX-110 5W/30
Drain Interval: Up to 5k - Synthetic oil:
Amsoil TSO Series 2000 0W/30 Synthetic
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W/30
Amsoil ASF 5W/30 Synthetic
Redline 5W/30
Drain interval: Up to 10k with oil filter change halfway through chosen interval (i.e. 8k drain interval -> 4k oil filter change)
NOTE: For hot climates (i.e. south), 10W/30 can be substituted and in colder climates (i.e. north), 0W/30 can be substituted.
Oils to stay away from IF going over 3,000 mile intervals:
- Any Valvoline Oil (consistent sub-par analysis results, all tend to shear down real quickly; additive packages are inferior to other brands)
- Castrol Syntec Blend Castrol Syntec Full Synthetic Oil [NOT GTX] (consistent so-so to sup-part analyses results and shady marketing practices)
- Royal Purple Oil (thins in viscosity relatively quickly and too expensive considering there are other synthetic oils that do not thin as fast that are less expensive)
NOTE: These oils will protect fine up to 3,000 miles, they just don't represent a good value based upon their additive package and/or their oil analysis reports for Maxima-specific engines. It does not mean they "suck".
Recommended Oil Filters for VQ engines, ranked in order of preference based upon my own observations:
- Mobil 1 M1-105 (fits VQ35DE only)
- Nissan OEM 15208-9E000 ONLY (for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
- Mobil 1 M1-110 (fits both VQ engines, but bypass valve isn't as good as M1-105 filter)
- Amsoil SDF-20 (fits both VQ engines)
Oil Filters to avoid:
- Nissan OEM 15208-65F00 (specified for VQ35DE by Nissan dealer; refuse to purchase this filter as it has cardboard endcaps like low quality Fram filters; insist on the dealer using the 15208-9E000 oil filter as it has a better overall construction quality)
- STP S6941 (Production change in mid-2003 to Mexico has created inferior quality; Some fitment issues on VQ35DE engines, so only VQ30DE engines should use this one)
- Bosch 3323 (Production change in mid-2003 to Mexico has created inferior quality; for all VQ30DE and VQ35DE engines)
- Any SuperTech filter (Due to production change in mid-2003 to Mexico that has resulted in inferior quality)
- Any filter made by Fram (consistently poor construction quality)
- Amsoil SDF-13 (pricier than SDF-20 and smaller)
- Mobil 1 M1-108 (pricier than M1-110 and smaller)
hy
I am using Mobil1 5W40, is it good or not?
Nissan says it should be SG or SH, that is mineral oil,
does it protect engine better?
05-19-2006, 10:13 PM
#175
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Estonia
Posts: 73
hy
Originally Posted by talkinghorse
Got the info for you...
The EaO-20 and the 21 are very close in size to one another, but the primary difference is in the by-pass valve. The by-pass valve on the EaO-20 is calibrated to the same specs as the recommended EAO-13, so if you elected to substitute a filter for the 13, then the 20 would be most appropriate. Opening pressure on the EaO-20 and the EaO-13 is 8-11 psid whereas the EaO-21 is calibrated at 13-19 psid.
Filter dimensions are as follows:
EaO-13: H: 3.402"
OD: 2.685"
ByPass Valve: 8-11 psid
EaO-20: H: 3.194"
OD: 3.252"
Bypass Valve: 8-11 psid
EaO-21: H: 3.141"
OD: 3.660
ByPass Valve 13-19 psid
Hope this helps...
The EaO-20 and the 21 are very close in size to one another, but the primary difference is in the by-pass valve. The by-pass valve on the EaO-20 is calibrated to the same specs as the recommended EAO-13, so if you elected to substitute a filter for the 13, then the 20 would be most appropriate. Opening pressure on the EaO-20 and the EaO-13 is 8-11 psid whereas the EaO-21 is calibrated at 13-19 psid.
Filter dimensions are as follows:
EaO-13: H: 3.402"
OD: 2.685"
ByPass Valve: 8-11 psid
EaO-20: H: 3.194"
OD: 3.252"
Bypass Valve: 8-11 psid
EaO-21: H: 3.141"
OD: 3.660
ByPass Valve 13-19 psid
Hope this helps...
what you think of K&N oil filter HP1010?
thanks
05-25-2006, 12:11 PM
#177
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3
Help regarding changing engine oil for my 2001 nissan maxima
Hello! I just want to ask regarding the estimated amount of oil that I have to use in my nissan maxima 2001 w/ 98k miles on it. This will be my first time to change the engine oil by myself. I know that I can use the oil dipstick but I just want to know how many quarts of oil I have to buy...Kind of innocent...sorry! Thanks in advance! JP of Chicago.
05-31-2006, 04:54 PM
#178
hey i have a quick question, i will be switching to synthetic in my 02 maxima, what i have planned is mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 and a nissan 9E000 filter. What i am wondering is if i can just put the synthetic in or do i have to run that auto-rx stuff? The engine has 57,000 miles, no leaks or anything. Also would 6200 miles be an okay oil change interval? thanks.
06-15-2006, 10:47 PM
#179
Originally Posted by 96blkonblkse
hey i have a quick question, i will be switching to synthetic in my 02 maxima, what i have planned is mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 and a nissan 9E000 filter. What i am wondering is if i can just put the synthetic in or do i have to run that auto-rx stuff? The engine has 57,000 miles, no leaks or anything. Also would 6200 miles be an okay oil change interval? thanks.
06-24-2006, 01:59 PM
#180
ok guys, the dude at Murray's Auto Parts told me since my car has "high" miles, told me to use 10W-40. I live in Chicago, IL. Should I take his advice? This will be the second time I'm going to be doing the oil change myself, screw the mechanics....The first time I got 10W-30 Castrol GTX. What do you guys have to say that can help me out?
Thanks
Thanks
07-18-2006, 10:28 PM
#182
Believe it or not, Iv been using castrol GTX sythentic 20w/50, just for the added protection. I have a 98' GLE, My car has 113k miles on it should I use something a little finer? Any suggestions would help. Also what is this AMSoil stuff? is it like the Lucas? better, If I decide to switch what would be a good weight?
Sorry if this is a repost, which Im sure it is....
Sorry if this is a repost, which Im sure it is....
07-27-2006, 07:55 AM
#183
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
Oil
Originally Posted by lubricity
Well boys and girls, as Popeye once said, " I can't stands anymore!"
I have a lubricant company and do over 100 oil analsys a month. And there is some good info and some bull here.
FIRST OIL:
I sell many brands so I'm not going to be partial to one. And I won't benifit anyway.
Oil is made up of two parts. The base oil and the additive package. If you start with a good base oil, it will make a good oil. ALL major manufactures used to use crap base oil. Now they are "SUPPOSED" to use a better base oil to pass the new spec. There are oils being questioned right now. Because they passed the new spec. But when some oil was pulled from the shelf, it could not pass the spec (4 times). So are the oil companies playing games? YES It revolves around price. The average person walks into K-Mart. A wall of oil is there. He buys the cheapest. So you being the exec. of Maxima Oil Co. will not put $.20 cents more per quart in your oil, why, because it won't sell. Remember, ALL the majors do not want to be in the lubricate oil business. Including Mobil, exxon, Vavoline, etc. There is no money in it.
Most manufactures have "ONE" good oil in their line-up. But they all have lots of crap oil. If the seal on the back says it passes the "C" spec as well as the "S" spec required by car manufactures. It is a better oil.
Now as for specific oils. I strongly disagree with the list posted in the beginning of this thread. Castrol GTX, give me a break! Castrol Syntec has it all over GTX. Ams Oil, ok, but WAY over priced for the qulality. Mobil 1, ok, but it thins out quickly. Vavoline synthetic an ok oil. There are only two SUPERIOR mineral oils out there. Texas Rifinery and Lubrication Engineeres. Both can not be bought at retail centers. As for price, cost is very close to the synthetics on the market. But both perform as well or sometimes BETTER than the synthetics. Exception is high and low temps. Both not a concern unless you live north of the border.
As for the NEW high miles oils. Just a ploy to get IDIOTS to buy their products.
Synthetics: If you want max HP, there is only one choice-Royal Purple. It is HALF the cost of AmsOil and TWICE as good. If you run any of the following synthetis: RP, AmsOil, Mobil1, Vavoline, Penz, Redline, etc. You will be ok. It is a matter of availability and which Church you go to.
Swithing to synthetics. No problem. The only concern is if you switch a motor with more than 20,000 miles over. Especially if you or the previous owner was using cheap oil. It may consume some oil in the beginning. NOT A PROBLEM. It is cleaning the ring lands out. The better oils will have a higher "Solventcy" or the ability to clean the garbage build up in the motor. Until this process is done, depending how you drive, it will consume some. So just check you oil frequently.
As for filters. The only filter to NOT use is FRAM. No exception here. They colapse internally. You can only see it once the filter is off. And that is buy looking in the center of the filter. We blew 3 motors in this area. (They payed to fix them) It is spelled out in a couple farm equipment owners manuals that it VOIDS the warrentee if a Fram is used. So if they print it in there manuals, it is SUPSTANTIAL.
Best filter: WIX. Not by my say so. But from several studies done by organizations.
The question of changing a filter and not the oil. It is a well known practice. I put on 45,000 miles a year. I run my oil 20,000 miles. Changing a filter at 5, 10, 15,000 miles. I have Tractor and Trailers going 80,000 miles between changes. Can this be done with the average oils, NO. No matter what oil you use. It needs to stay clean. If you put and oil in and it stays "clean looking" for a long time. It isn't working. It shold become blackish soon. That is a signal the additive package is working. By scrubbing the engine internals and carring the dirt to the filter.
With this said, I hope it clears up some myths. If you guys and gals would like anymore info, just ask. I usually run my motors about 180,000 miles, except for the only **** motor nissan built the dohc Gen 3. That suck the front washer off the adjuster and grinds up the tining chain. No oil can help that.
Have a nice holiday
Rich
I have a lubricant company and do over 100 oil analsys a month. And there is some good info and some bull here.
FIRST OIL:
I sell many brands so I'm not going to be partial to one. And I won't benifit anyway.
Oil is made up of two parts. The base oil and the additive package. If you start with a good base oil, it will make a good oil. ALL major manufactures used to use crap base oil. Now they are "SUPPOSED" to use a better base oil to pass the new spec. There are oils being questioned right now. Because they passed the new spec. But when some oil was pulled from the shelf, it could not pass the spec (4 times). So are the oil companies playing games? YES It revolves around price. The average person walks into K-Mart. A wall of oil is there. He buys the cheapest. So you being the exec. of Maxima Oil Co. will not put $.20 cents more per quart in your oil, why, because it won't sell. Remember, ALL the majors do not want to be in the lubricate oil business. Including Mobil, exxon, Vavoline, etc. There is no money in it.
Most manufactures have "ONE" good oil in their line-up. But they all have lots of crap oil. If the seal on the back says it passes the "C" spec as well as the "S" spec required by car manufactures. It is a better oil.
Now as for specific oils. I strongly disagree with the list posted in the beginning of this thread. Castrol GTX, give me a break! Castrol Syntec has it all over GTX. Ams Oil, ok, but WAY over priced for the qulality. Mobil 1, ok, but it thins out quickly. Vavoline synthetic an ok oil. There are only two SUPERIOR mineral oils out there. Texas Rifinery and Lubrication Engineeres. Both can not be bought at retail centers. As for price, cost is very close to the synthetics on the market. But both perform as well or sometimes BETTER than the synthetics. Exception is high and low temps. Both not a concern unless you live north of the border.
As for the NEW high miles oils. Just a ploy to get IDIOTS to buy their products.
Synthetics: If you want max HP, there is only one choice-Royal Purple. It is HALF the cost of AmsOil and TWICE as good. If you run any of the following synthetis: RP, AmsOil, Mobil1, Vavoline, Penz, Redline, etc. You will be ok. It is a matter of availability and which Church you go to.
Swithing to synthetics. No problem. The only concern is if you switch a motor with more than 20,000 miles over. Especially if you or the previous owner was using cheap oil. It may consume some oil in the beginning. NOT A PROBLEM. It is cleaning the ring lands out. The better oils will have a higher "Solventcy" or the ability to clean the garbage build up in the motor. Until this process is done, depending how you drive, it will consume some. So just check you oil frequently.
As for filters. The only filter to NOT use is FRAM. No exception here. They colapse internally. You can only see it once the filter is off. And that is buy looking in the center of the filter. We blew 3 motors in this area. (They payed to fix them) It is spelled out in a couple farm equipment owners manuals that it VOIDS the warrentee if a Fram is used. So if they print it in there manuals, it is SUPSTANTIAL.
Best filter: WIX. Not by my say so. But from several studies done by organizations.
The question of changing a filter and not the oil. It is a well known practice. I put on 45,000 miles a year. I run my oil 20,000 miles. Changing a filter at 5, 10, 15,000 miles. I have Tractor and Trailers going 80,000 miles between changes. Can this be done with the average oils, NO. No matter what oil you use. It needs to stay clean. If you put and oil in and it stays "clean looking" for a long time. It isn't working. It shold become blackish soon. That is a signal the additive package is working. By scrubbing the engine internals and carring the dirt to the filter.
With this said, I hope it clears up some myths. If you guys and gals would like anymore info, just ask. I usually run my motors about 180,000 miles, except for the only **** motor nissan built the dohc Gen 3. That suck the front washer off the adjuster and grinds up the tining chain. No oil can help that.
Have a nice holiday
Rich
Read your post the other day. Very informative. I have a 2004 Maxima w/11,000 miles. Just switched to synthetic oil Mobil-1 Truck SUV 10W-40. Read somewhere, can’t remember where, to stay away from oils that are marked “energy efficient” or “energy conserving”. There are some additives there that are supposed to be bad for the engine.
Just wanted to know if you’re familiar with Shell Rotella Synthetic oil 5W-40 and what would your recommendation be as far as using it in the Maxima? Rotella is rated “C” for commercial use (gas and diesel engines) so it is used a lot by truck drivers. Another one is Mobil Delvac-1, 5W-40.
You seem to be very knowledgeable in this field so please respond with your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Mike
08-02-2006, 07:50 AM
#184
Old Fuddy Duddy
Join Date: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Originally Posted by kinzer1
Hello,
Read your post the other day. Very informative. I have a 2004 Maxima w/11,000 miles. Just switched to synthetic oil Mobil-1 Truck SUV 10W-40. Read somewhere, can’t remember where, to stay away from oils that are marked “energy efficient” or “energy conserving”. There are some additives there that are supposed to be bad for the engine.
Just wanted to know if you’re familiar with Shell Rotella Synthetic oil 5W-40 and what would your recommendation be as far as using it in the Maxima? Rotella is rated “C” for commercial use (gas and diesel engines) so it is used a lot by truck drivers. Another one is Mobil Delvac-1, 5W-40.
You seem to be very knowledgeable in this field so please respond with your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Mike
Read your post the other day. Very informative. I have a 2004 Maxima w/11,000 miles. Just switched to synthetic oil Mobil-1 Truck SUV 10W-40. Read somewhere, can’t remember where, to stay away from oils that are marked “energy efficient” or “energy conserving”. There are some additives there that are supposed to be bad for the engine.
Just wanted to know if you’re familiar with Shell Rotella Synthetic oil 5W-40 and what would your recommendation be as far as using it in the Maxima? Rotella is rated “C” for commercial use (gas and diesel engines) so it is used a lot by truck drivers. Another one is Mobil Delvac-1, 5W-40.
You seem to be very knowledgeable in this field so please respond with your thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Mike
I would spend more time reading Mike and finding information backed up by tests and analysis versus just "analysis" that is never shown. Oil and oil filters is a highly debated topic with many opinions.
I have a 91 Toyota MR2 and moved from the "unknown" oil type/brand of the previous two owners and moved to synthetic. The engine does not consume oil. I have all the receipts of the oil changes and they were not syn changes, although no brand was specified. But I am guessing that at 13 bucks a change, it was not a syn oil.
08-12-2006, 08:50 PM
#185
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 25
I've had my '03 I35 for a couple weeks now. It has 59K miles on it (highway use) and I just got through changing the oil/filter and doing a trans drain/fill with Mobil 1 fluids. Looks like the previous owner took the car to the dealer for service, the oil filter was an OEM Nissan filter. I took a peek through the oil fill hole to see how clean the top of the ctlinder head was. Looks very clean in there, no sludge or even a slight film at all. Definitly looks like the car had regular maintanence. Anyway, she's running on Mobil 1 full synthetic now and Mobil 1 synthetic ATF as well. 
That's all I ever used in my Buick GN and I never had any problems.
That's all I ever used in my Buick GN and I never had any problems.
08-22-2006, 06:45 PM
#187
You need a minimum 1500 miles to go on the oil before the OC plus a new filter. A-Rx needs 1500-2K miles to do its thing. The rinse phase HAS to be dino, so M1 is a no no. After that you can use whatever you want.
Check out their website.
Check out their website.
10-14-2006, 02:02 PM
#189
I noticed Mobil 1 now sells a pricier version of their SuperSyn synthetic oil. The "regular" is $23 per jug at Wal-Mart, and the "Endurance" is almost $29. Any reason to buy the more expensive one?
I also have a question about oil filters. I am using a 350Z size filter (about 2.5 inches long instead of the normal 3.5 inch Maxima filter) due to traction bars that I have installed, which cause clearance issues with the regular filter. Does anyone have a recommended filter to use in this application? I will probably just go with Nissan OEM unless someone knows of a Purolator or other good filter that is the right size.
I also have a question about oil filters. I am using a 350Z size filter (about 2.5 inches long instead of the normal 3.5 inch Maxima filter) due to traction bars that I have installed, which cause clearance issues with the regular filter. Does anyone have a recommended filter to use in this application? I will probably just go with Nissan OEM unless someone knows of a Purolator or other good filter that is the right size.
10-14-2006, 02:39 PM
#190
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 130
I just bought a Purolator Pure One filter and I dont see it discussed much here...
Did I make a bad choice? Also, I bought Castrol GTX 5w-30... is GTX a conventional or blended oil? Did I make a good choice on the oil? Last time I used 10w-30 from Shell Brand conventional oil and I dont know if that was a good choice.
Did I make a bad choice? Also, I bought Castrol GTX 5w-30... is GTX a conventional or blended oil? Did I make a good choice on the oil? Last time I used 10w-30 from Shell Brand conventional oil and I dont know if that was a good choice.
10-14-2006, 07:01 PM
#191
Purolators are great because they are good filters for REALLY cheap. They're not the best, but they are arguably the best bang-for-the-buck.
GTX is dino oil (a.k.a. not synthetic). But it's definitely one of the best dino oils you can get.
GTX is dino oil (a.k.a. not synthetic). But it's definitely one of the best dino oils you can get.
10-15-2006, 05:18 PM
#192
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 114
I second that GTX is one of the best conventional oils you can get.
I like using Mobil 1 in my Maxima and Castrol synthetic in my leaky Mustang with Pure One filters.
Oh btw, Mobil 1 Extended Life is a ripoff. All you're buying is a label that guarantees 15k mile intervals. It's more than likely that it's the same stuff.
I like using Mobil 1 in my Maxima and Castrol synthetic in my leaky Mustang with Pure One filters.
Oh btw, Mobil 1 Extended Life is a ripoff. All you're buying is a label that guarantees 15k mile intervals. It's more than likely that it's the same stuff.
10-21-2006, 04:55 AM
#193
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 4
i'm a newbie in car tech., needs some advice,i got an 01 se , i bought it w/ 110k ,don't have any service records, i'm goin' to change the oil myself after reading you guys' expert opinion i'm choosing between castrol gtx 10w30 high mileage or mobil 7500 , which one is better? how do i know what are the fluids i need to change or maintenance tune up to be done? thank you so much
10-21-2006, 07:05 AM
#194
The maintenance schedule is in your owner's manual.
As for what oil to pick... Mobil Clean 7500 (which I presume is what you're talking about) is a synthetic blend, which means it has synthetic and non-synthetic parts. GTX is straight non-synthetic. I would pick the Mobil.
And never forget this important maintenance tip: Do not go to a Jiffy Lube. Ever.
As for what oil to pick... Mobil Clean 7500 (which I presume is what you're talking about) is a synthetic blend, which means it has synthetic and non-synthetic parts. GTX is straight non-synthetic. I would pick the Mobil.
And never forget this important maintenance tip: Do not go to a Jiffy Lube. Ever.
11-09-2006, 05:14 AM
#196
so, my friend just said that the 15208-65F00 filteris no longer using a cardboard endcap. The techs at his dealership are bored sometimes and cut filters open and he said lately there haven't been ony filters with cardboard endcaps. He's been wrong in the past but...
12-14-2006, 08:10 AM
#200
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 13
Has anyone found any independent documentation/testing to support the use of slick 50 or duralube treatments for the engine. supposedly you could treat your engine every 50k and this would put the protection back that came oem when it was brand new.