This pretty much says it all.
1) You didn't even read or even understand the article. (Even thought it was done in clear every day terms
2) You would rather believe some CEO that most likely doesn't know anything about engines or oil.

 

i know somone with our same engine who last i knew had 190k on it and always used dinos and im sure there are people who have more than that both on syn and convent. but he never had a real problem and it was still running strong. he was happy with it and im betting his oil costs were much less than yours. but i could be wrong

 

1) How do you know it wouldn't have been in even better condition with Synthetic?
2) I never said dino wouldn't be fine (if you use the RIGHT dino oil)
3) Again so many assumptions. How do you know what I use, how much I pay for it and how much it costs me per mile of use? So yes, you could be VERY wrong. At least you are correct in that

 

it might have been in better cond. with synthetics but it was in good or great cond. as it is and personally i dont think my car will make it past 250k the engine might but the car itself wont.

 

and what is the correct dino in your humble opinion?

and if you dont mind me asking what kinda oil do you use and what are ur intervals?

 

What I use is mentioned in the article

I actually change pretty often at 3-4k. But I used to use Amsoil and extended the change intervals

But my choice of oils is NOT related to this conversation. Nor does it change the points made or the facts given. When I turbo, I WILL switch to a quality Synthetic. Superior film strength, lack of sludge and overall superior protection will be mandatory.

 

yes a turbo is a totlly different subject and i agree on synthetics for that

 

castrol gtx & Hastings filter

 

agreed

 

That is fine guys. But it wasn't part of Harris's original question.

 

Wow i actually read that whole article.. the only real answer that I can give for people saying you shouldnt change to synthetic after 100k (which is pretty much unsubstantiated) is the fact that synthetics have different detergents in them than regular oil... the oil is the same viscosity but it will clean out all the sludge around your valves and rings... the same crud that may be "sealing" that valve when it closes is now gone.

 

doesnt GTX have a good additive package? i believe that is one of the reasons many of us love it so...

 

I'm running Mobil 1 Synthetic and my intervals are 10,000 miles. I currently have 154,000 on the engine.

 

my GLE runs just fine...all I do is spit in the engine every month or so to top it off. lol

Why are you guys arguing so much about oil? We drive Maximas remember? The VQ engine is indestructable. The freakin thing will run on a few sticks of butter. I may dump in a few cups of cream cheese. It will work like that dura lube engine treatment stuff and seal up all the spots with wear and tare.

 

One more thing...
Most people will go out and buy another car when a simple thing like oil has such a huge impact like you guys make it out to be.

 

It's a dying opinion, that cars shouldn't be switched late. There was merit to it in the past, but from what I understand the new seals/gaskets in all cars made after a certain time allow even cars with high mileage to take synthetic without issue. FWIW I've been on it for 10k miles, since buying my 97 with its 77k, and there is zero leaking so far in 6 months.

 

Again false. Remind me not to buy any used cars from you

 

I have 246,xxx on my 95 SE. Owned it since 70,000. I have changed back and forth several times (usually using synthetic during the winter). I have never had a problem. I have one very simple measure of my engine's condition...I consitently get 425 plus miles to a full tank. Not scientific and clearly not the best test, but my car has treated me very well.

 

Hey!...is that a rod knock from your block?

 

i use syntec

 

you almost made it 4 years w/out anyone posting in this thread lol

since i just read the whole thing I may as well comment. I believe he was talking about when oil is "dirty" say 4, 5, maybe 6000 or maybe even 10000 miles, depending on the additive package, oils oxidize at different rates, and they get contaminated from combustion blowby. Moisture, among other things such as unburned fuel can end up in oil as well, thats why if youve ever seen an oil analysis report there is a spot for these things on the spec sheet. condensation(from moisture, and the additive package thats gradually breaking down) causes acids and sludge, as far as i've heard.