I love the stuff, 5w-30 every 3K.

 

The previous post by chernmax also applies to you:

"If your using Mobil 1 your intervals are wasting money and you have ZERO justification as to why you are fixed on your moron ways...

Oh, and please don't tell me "you daddy told you so...."

This is particularly true given the federal government's mandated change to Ultra Low Sulfur Gasoline by the US oil industry this spring. Check out my explanations for the reason this change in gasoline reduces the need for frequent oil changes in the first post on this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=456754

What a waste of money and resources changing Mobil 1 every 3 K miles !

 

My local Wal-Mart has a sale on 5 quarts of Mobil 1 for $20.87 plus tax. This is not the long-drain interval Mobil 1. This works out to $4.174 per quart. This is the first time I've paid over $4 per quart for Mobil 1, but this is still a good price in today's market.

 

Does anyone use this???
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 fully synthetic motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. It provides guaranteed performance and protection for 15,000 miles or one year. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products contain 50 percent more SuperSyn, 37 percent more cleaning agents, and 36 percent more anti-wear additives than Mobil 1.

 

I know this is the response from the first page but somebody had to make this correction. The Mobil 1 oil filter for VQ35 Maxima is m1-108 not 105.

 

Considering it's only ~$30 to change Napa Gold + Mobil1 (and ~$12 for Napa Gold + GTX), I just stick with 3000-4000miles or 3months, sometimes more, just depends.

 

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

Great Analysis of Mobil 1, and Amsoil. Scroll down the home page and you will see the links to the above test results pages.

 

Thanks for this site. It does have great information. And I agree with a major conclusion this site makes:

"Based on the results we've got here, we'd recommend 8,000 miles between oil changes on an engine that uses no oil at all, perhaps 10,000 miles on an engine that uses some oil, and 15,000 miles or beyond with a filter change every 5,000 miles. This, of course, isn't any kind of guarantee, and you must evaluate for yourself what your engine requires. One thing we're pretty sure about though: 3,000-mile intervals is a huge waste of resources." {I have changed the color of this most important point.}

The move to longer Oil Change Intervals is even more appropriate now that the government has mandated even more ultra low sulfur levels in all grades of US gasoline.

I currently run my Mobil 1 for 7,500 miles -- the maximum mileage that Nissan allows in their owners manual. When my 6-year and 60 K mile warranty on the drive train expires, I plan to move to a higher OCI of 10K miles. This site says that with an intermediate filter change, you can run Mobil 1 to 18 K miles. I will only push it to 10 K -- and for now stick to 7.5K to maintain my warranty.

 

^^^^ hahaha I actually read this yesterday and wanted to post, but didn't do it. That is some great info, and good points.

 

I change it regardless of how I drive between 3500-4000.

 

City/Highway always @3K sometimes less. Maybe I'm old fashioned changing at 3,ooo gives me piece of mind.

 

The M1-108 is the standard "thimble" size filter. The M1-110 and 105 are both alternates that fit VQ engines too. The 110 is less "radical" in that it's the same diameter as the 108, just "taller." In fact, it's the same size as the Nissan 9E000 tall filter. The 105 is slightly taller than the 108 but has much larger diameter, though its base plate is the same as its smaller siblings. I have not used a 105 myself yet (though I have one on my shelf). I hear that it fits only the VQ35, space apparently being to tight in the case of the VQ30.

 

All I can say is that I respectfully recommend you check out the used oil analysis section over at Bobistheoilguy.com (BITOG). It's one easy click away ===> http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...?ubb=forum;f=3 Study!

My personal favorite UOA is the Porsche Cayenne that ran almost 20,000 miles on its factory fill Mobil-1 0w-40 (excessive even by my standards)! But that oil was just barely starting to get tired. Wear metals were fine. There are a fair number of VQ results too (mine posted under the screen name "ekpolk").

It is, of course, your car, your time, and your money. At BITOG, you will see that the 3/3 plan gains you virtually nothing over 5/6 (or longer), and that the peace of mind of which you speak is an illusion given life by those who want to sell you oil and lots of it.

 

Way to go, Tork !

But it's hard to change: "I've always done it at 3 K miles," or "My dad said to change oil at 3 K miles."

The advent of extra-low sulfur gasoline (in March) makes it even dumber to change oil so frequently. I go for 7,500 miles because Nissan allows it and still keeps my power train warranty in effect.

 

'Evening Silver -- I'm having an insomniac attack, so I'm back -- at almost 1:00a.m. . .

I'm following the exact same plan in my G, since I still have PT wty to protect too. As I type this, my latest oil sample is in the belly of a FedEx jet on its way to Blackstone. Results expected tomorrow (yes, I'll share ). It's GC with 5k miles. I sent it off just to monitor.

I found yet another bit of evidence to help kill the 3/3 myth. This is a UOA from the owner of a 2003 Saab Turbo who ran his last fill of M1 0w-40 for over 17,000 miles. This M1 0w-40 sure is durable stuff! His wear numbers and fluid condition are remarkably unremarkable. He could have gone longer! Check it out: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=003423 Cheers.

 

Besides motor oil, Mobil 1 makes an awesome synthetic ATF. The difference is quite amazing.

 

Everyone is basically saying as long as you change the filter within this 3-6k mile range, you can continue to run your Mobil 1 synthetic oil for almost 2x as long?

I drive a stick everyday in traffic light city. I used Mobil 1 filter and Mobil 1 full syntec. After 3k miles the oil was black. Are you guys telling me that I can just change the filter at 3k miles and the black oil will either turn lighter or not harm the engine? Let me know because I don't want to ruin the engine or my Full warranty. Everybody is preaching money waste at 3k mi intervals to change both.

Holla at the kid!!

 

You want to be certain you keep the Nissan power train warranty in effect for the full 60 K miles. Nissan recommends that you not exceed 7.5 K miles between oil changes. That is what I am now doing using Mobil 1 and the Nissan filter. It certainly would not hurt to change the filter in the middle of that mileage at 3,750 miles. As has been recommended elsewhere in the Fluids & Lubes area, the best check of when to change your oil is to get a lab analysis. Given your driving conditions, that would be wise for you to do. The color of the motor oil is not important, but the oil's chemical properties and the dirt and water in the oil are. I suspect that the lab test will say that your Mobil 1 is still good after 7.5 K miles.

 

I switched from valvoline synthetic blend to Mobile 1 Synthetic after 60,000 miles on my 2004 Maxima. After I first switched I noticed that my engine seemed to be a little hotter and my performance and MPG seemed to drop dramatically. I then took some advice from someone on the org and change my oil after only driving 1000 miles. After the change my performance still seems to be down and my MPG are still down. With the conventional oil on the hwy it was not hard for me to get 27 to 28 MPG. Now it is ard for me to get 23-24 mpg. My engine seem to run smoother, but the performance is definitely down. Has anyone else noticed this, and if not can anyone explain what is happening. Does the engine need to adjust to the oil being so thin. I don't know why the performance is and MPG are down. I have had no previous problems with performance or gas mileage and the only other thing that I changed was cleaning my K&N air filter. Cant explain!!

 

I change mine every 3k with 5w30

 

Full synthetic every 5K miles Drive 30K -40K miles a year, mostly highway so I could go to 7,500 but all things considered oil is freakin cheap insurance

 

What you are doing is ****-retentive and a complete waste of money. You could easily get 5K out of a decent dino oil if you drive as much as you state.

 

Bobo is correct. Your 5 K mile OCI is not insurance, but a waste of your money and resources. The more highway mileage you drive, the easier this driving is on your motor oil -- both dino and Synthetic.

You could easily and safely go to 7.5 K mile OCI (using Synthetic) with no problem. If you don't believe it, try it once and then send an oil sample in for a complete test. You will kick yourself for dumping all of that Synthetic motor oil before it was fully used.

 

+1 I just got my oil analysis back from blackstone, went 6200 miles on Castrol GC, they said to go another 1000 miles next time. Oil was not even close to the end of its life.

 

I drive my maxima 4 miles each way to work everyday, how often should I change my mobil 1?

 

Hard to say really. Do you do any longer driving at all? 4 miles is not enough to get the oil up to proper operating temperature. When your oil is hot it allows the oil and fuel in it to evaporate off. Personally, I would go 5k miles, then send a sample off to Blackstone to have them analyze it. That is the only surefire way of knowing whether or not your oil changes are coming at the correct time.

 

I mean yes I have the trips that are 8-10 miles a few times a week but I don't have highway trips more than once a month if that.

 

hey, i just bought a 98 maxima gle, it currently has penzoil and a fram filter on it(118k miles)im chaning to nissan filter everybody here says use 9e000, but the manual says to use 31U000, whats the difference?

 

sorry to bring up such an oold post, lol

 

5k miles, even though I get mobil 1 syn that claims to be good for 15k mile intervals.

 

I usually change my oil between 3-5K miles. I do a visual check at 3K miles. If I think I can wait awhile then I'll do a weekly check thereafter until I feel I need to change it.

Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30, six-pack from Costco 28.99.

 

Oh oh... This may be bad news for a lot of people if it proves to be accurate.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...1&fpart=1&vc=1

 

You should not use 15W50 weight oil in your VQ -- except possbily at the race track. Stick to 10W30 or even 10W40 or 0W40 (if you must).

 

Obviously you didn't read the entire thread. He also tested M1 EP 5w30 SM and accordingly had large amounts of mineral oil, pressumably, Group III basestocks.

p.s. I use GC.

 

Here's something relevant to the discussion I came across:

"In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has nearly the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. The much more expensive traditional synthetics are now available in their pure forms only in more expensive and harder to obtain oils. To the best of my knowledge, Delvac-1, AMSOil, Redline, and Motul 5100 are the only oils made from pure traditional synthetics."

This is excerpted from http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

 

Maybe Mark needs to update his page. Even Amsoil is migrating toward Group III base oils. I am so glad I switched to GC.

What has most BITOG members p!ssed off most is the sneaky way XOM is doing the change, allegedly as it may be, after taking Castrol to court. At least Amsoil has not hidden the fact that some of their synthetics contain hydroprocessed oils.

 

I was not warned in CCS's original post to read the entire thread. I'm still working off of older M1 stocks. Guess I will have to reconsider when it comes time to re-stock with synthetic motor oil (whatever that now means) -- a number of years away.

 

Interestingly, not all Mobil 1 weights are the same............for instance; 0W-40 and 15W-50 have the stringent ACEA A3 rating, while the other weights do not. And, the 0W-40 and 15W-50 are approved for use in Porsche and Mercedes, while the other weights are not.............and Porsche suggests not changing the approved oils for 20K miles...................

 

As you know, AMSOIL uses Group III basestocks only in their XL oils, and there's a good reason for that. The XL oils were originally marketed for the Quick-Lube market...the XL oils are more reasonably/competitively priced and recommended for changing 7500 miles or twice per year. AMSOIL XL oils are very high quality; the convenience appeals to customers; drain recommendations are consistent with OEM recommendations/warranty considerations; and QL operators still get repeat business and the chance to sell add-on products and services.

AMSOIL's other lines of oils are still formulated with more costly PAO basestocks. And you're right: unlike other lubricant manufacturers, AMSOIL is not afraid and has the business ethics to disclose data to the consumer to help them make an informed buying decision.

 

Also, the Mobil 1 0W-40 is the only Mobil oil approved by BMW for their Long Life spec and VW for their specs. A lot of BMW drivers are using 5W-30, but in reality, only the 0W-40 oil should be used.

As you mentioned, the more stringent ACEA A3 certification makes it onto only those two viscosities.