using mobil1 5w-30 in my 98 also in my 2000 pathfinder going 3000 miles worked great when ihad my 87 192000 miles loved that car

 

NYC driving.. used to do it ever 2500 with the max. Sludge was horrible.

Now that I have a new Alty.. every 4k, Mobil1 SuperSyn oil with M1 filters.

 

2500 miles w/ synthetic? what a waste of money

 

3000 miles with synthetic...

The reason is beacuse of the blower...the Newer the Oil, the better I feel about drving the car. And for the amount of milage I put on the car, its worth it

-matt

 

I'm trying to go 5k on my first round of Mobile 1. I've been using Castrol Syntec and didn't have any issues (oil burning etc...) with an OEM Filter. Switched to Mobil 1 and Mobil 1 filter. I'm a little concerned because I seem to be burning a good bit of oil (noticable amount). Before I might be down a 1/2 quart total for 3500 miles but I've added well over a quart and only 2700 miles so far on Mobil 1. I may make a trip to the dealer and see if somethings wrong.

 

A quart burned in about 2,500 miles is too much. You should check the oil burn rate more accurately, but it is definitely too much. You did not say how many miles you have on your Max? Also, what weight of Mobil 1 are you using? If it is 5W30, you might try using 10W30 (winter might be a problem).

I had an 86 Celica that I bought used and it burned oil. It burned more synthetic than dino oil (for the same distance traveled), so I just stayed with dino oil for that car.

 

47k on a 2k2. Like I said no noticable burn off with Castrol but now using Mobil 1 a considerable change. I can't lie and say that the dipstick is a PITA. It's not a very "foolproof" design. I'm running 5W30 and I drive pretty hard (80+ on Freeway / Hard Accel in the city) so maybe that has something to do with it.

 

Your mileage is not that high that you should be burning that much Mobil 1.

I use Mobil 1 (10W30) in my 3.5 VQ with 38 K miles and it burns some oil. I change at the maximum Nissan interval of 7.5 K miles and I add about a half a quart at about 3.5 K miles (and don't add any when I'm near an oil change). The VQ has burned some oil from the beginning, but since about 10 K miles the burn rate has stabilized.

I would suggest you try to measure exactly how much oil you add and how many miles you go before you need to add. If the more measured burn rate is what you think it is, I would consider going back to Castrol dino oil.

 

just stepping in for clarification....lets say your oil level is on the LOW end of the stick...it only takes 1qt to raise it back to HIGH correcT? and this also applies to 1/2 or 1/4th or 3/4th marks?

 

My dip-stick only has two marks on it. I assume that the difference is 1 quart because when it is half way down from the top, it takes about a half-quart to bring it up to the top again. I don't like to get more than a half-quart down before I bring her up. I try to check the dip-stick about once a month (unless I'm on a road trip).

 

once again our dip stick sucks!
just did another oil change. added a bit to the filter, then the 1 gallon-1cup(4.25). check it and it's low. So I add a cup. now atleast 4.5 quarts are in. check today only at half way point on hash marks. i am not putting 5 quarts in.

but yes 1 quart should cover entire hash marks.

 

I had essentially the same thing happen when I last changed oil in mid August. The engine took more volume of motor oil than the book says to get the level to the top mark on the dip-stick. I suspect that the book is wrong.

 

My dad has always based his oil changes on the color and feel (and smell?) of the oil off the dipstick. He would average less than 2 oil changes per year on conventional oil (roughly 8k-10k between changes). Every car he owned (all different makes; new or used) has run trouble free well past 130k mi. Most would still purr at 200k. Usually transmissions went bad before any signs of oil-related problem.

The only exception might have been our minivan. We don't know how many miles it actually had because the odometer broke at 240k. We still drove it for a couple years after that. But when it needed a second tranny rebuild, my dad noticed the engine smoking a bit, so he decided to give it up. He never changed the oil more than twice a year, yet we would take that minivan hauling, towing, and on fully-loaded cross-country trips (over the Rockies and desert and everything). In HS, I would go stoplight racing in it with my friends because it was the only car we had with a V6 and you could load it up with a bunch of friends. My point being: Despite your driving conditions, your oil can last a long time without damaging your engine if you know what you are doing.

Me? I don't have enough experience or confidence to say I know what I'm doing. Plus I do almost exclusively stop and go city driving, so I stick to the factory recs.

 

I change my oil anywhere between 4.5-5K miles using Mobil 1 syn (5W30). Anything less, you should go back to conventional refined oils so you stop wasting money...

 

what filter do u use btw?

 

I've been doing changes at 3-4K w/ nissan filter and 5w30 syn. I've been using M1 in my 03 since I got it at 18k miles. I now have 40k on it and just noticed during this change interval (currently 3200 miles since last change)that my oil is much darker than usual. Also I had to add about 1/2 a quart to it. This was the first time I had to add any oil durning the change interval. I noticed the color probably about 2000-2500 miles. I've never done an analysis, but a bit concerned about how the oil looks for not having driven the car differently than the rest of the time I've had it. I debated switching back to dino because I change my oil so often but now with how it looks/burn off, I may just stay with Syn. or try a different brand even though I would really like to stay with M1.

I tried the EP M1 syn in my Titan and noticed the engine seemed to run a little quieter than with regular M1 Syn(EP has 37% more friction modifiers). The EP cost's roughly $1.00 more than the regular M1 Syn at about $5.00 a quart(Wal Mart), though. Since I change my oil reguarly at no more than 4k, I'm really tempted to get the dino M1 and save probably $12-$18 at each change. I average 12k a year and with 3 vehicles that is roughly anywhere from $100-$225 a year just for syn over dino. Guess that is the price I pay to HOPEFULLY have less engine wear, slightly better gas mileage, etc?

 

Is Mobil 1 that good..........I am new to Synthetic........Gotta get some for my Stang........I have 159,000km on my 92 Maxima so I guess it's too late to switch to Synthetic..............

 

Your Maxima has less than 100,000 miles on it and it may not be too late for switching to synthetic. However, I would do two AutoRX applications first.

Go to www.auto-rx.com and www.bobistheoilguy.com and read up on AutoRX. It helps to clean the engine internals, combustion chamber and ring packs and helps to revitalize engine seals.

I am presently using it in my 95 Maxima SE, then switching to synthetic for the first time.

 

on the auto-rx, just started mine yesterday.

 

Mobil 1 Filter or I get a Nissan Filter from the Stealership...

 

Further to my comment on AutoRX, forget about using Mobil1. Since you live in Canada, consider using Esso Extra XD3, 0w30, PAO, full synthetic available only at Esso bulk plants. It costs about 1/3 less than picking Mobil 1 up at Wal Mart at the current sale price and according to many members of BITOG is a better oil than Mobil 1 based on UOAs and VOAs. This oil lends itself to longer OCIs and reduced oxidation over time.

 

I'm still doing my changes at 3k with Mobil 1.

 

Yes I think Syn is superior to conventional refined oil and it's never to late to switch. I also grabbed this off the net about the top 10 myths about Synthetic Oil. Sory for the long read Orgers...

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it's 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, oil’s lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.

Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.

Myth#8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.

In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving; these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

 

would you guys perfer a oem filter or m1 filter? in addition what is the differnence between 10w30 and 5w30..? dino and synthetic? what will you guys perfer for a 2k2 maxima with 40k mileages......sorry i am a new driver..thanks a lot

 

You are wasting your money! Extend your OCIs or switch back to dino. Also consider Esso XD3 Extra, 0w30, synthetic oil like I suggested to you before. It is considerably cheaper than Mobil 1, is a better oil and provides more protection at operating temperature. Mobil 1 is a thinner oil at operating temperature and shears down in viscosity after awhile.

 

Read the stickies and FAQs. The Nissan OEM filter is just fine and quite a bit cheaper than the M1. Consider a Purolator PureOne filter alternatively.

At 40K you could switch to synthetic any time. In New York, I would go with 5w30 year round. Research the differences between dino and synthetic yourself. No one is going to spoon feed you on this board so get with the program!

 

Thanks chernmax. A good post with accurate information. Worth the read.

 

does anybody know if the Nissan 9e000 filter is good for 5,000 miles? I know its rated at 3,500 miles according to courtesy's website...but I know nissan likes to play # games

 

Winter DIY OEM filter w/ MobilOne 5W30 or Penzoil Pl Syn (7500 mils)
Summer DIY OEM fiter w/Castrol 5W30 dino (5000 mils)
Ode read 128k so far on 97 SE 5speed

 

Why would you bother switching back and forth between synthetic oil and dino oil depending on the season?

Just run Mobil 1 5w30 year round or come on up to Canada and buy some Esso XD3, 0w30, PAO, full synthetic at the nearest Esso bulk plant. Phone them first to make sure they have it in stock. It's considerably cheaper than Mobil 1 and is rated higher on BITOG based on UOAs and VOAs.

 

Be frank with you, MobileOne Syn in summer is kind of waste if you not racing the vehicle. But in winter subzero temperature it's another story. In summer I take short OCI to remove the by product from the oil more often, do you think MoileOne do more than frequent OCI?

 

Do you do the oil changes yourselfl or pay to get it done?

If you bought the Mobil 1 on sale at Wal Mart by the jug, the incremental cost of doing the synthetic oil change yourself versus the dino would amount to peanuts. However, if you are paying to get it done the difference would be greater.

The alternative is to buy the oil and filter and pay somebody to do the oil change if you can't/don't want to do it yourself.

 

I do the MobileOne myself cause local garage charge too much. I kept the M1 in the engine between Dec to next spring (March) cause I don't drive much when there is snow.

In summer, I get it done at Firestone w/ free fluid top off and tire check at $12.00 (If you have a credt account with them). Because I hate the grease stuff and not worth it do DIY. I drive a lot in summer so $12 change is a bargin. In hot mid summer, I might DIY a M1 to clean my engine a bit and just having fun crawling under the maxima to look the underbody. I normally by the M1 at Sam's club or local K-Mart. recently I got the Penzoil Platium Syn with $15 debt card reward. Nowadys, any name brand oil will do 99% of the job best oil can do. Get any oil on sale and spend one Sunday afternoon DIY.

How is BC rainy wether treat your car. The moisture is the problem in your engine. I believe you can do w/o M1 in Great Vancouver mild tempteratre and wet climate.

 

Mobile1 10-30 change the oil every 10K, the filter (either K&N or Purolator gold) every 5K. Started when the car was at 58K, and now at 115K w/o issue.

I don't drive the car very hard... only every once in a while

 

Mobile is the town in Alabana.
Mobil is the oil company, now a part of Exxon-Mobil

When my power-train warranty expires with mileage, I will be going to your oil change frequency. Right now Nissan allows for oil changes (and still maintain the warranty) every 7,500 miles. I'm convinced that Mobil 1 should be good for 10 K miles, if you keep it clean. Thus, changing the oil filter in the middle at 5 K miles will help keep the oil clean.

 

silvermax - do u know if the 9e000 filter from Nissan is good for 5k miles? On your last post, you said in your last sentence "changing the oil filter at 5k will help keep the oil clean"....does this include the nissan filter or only certain high performance synthetic filters such as Mobil1, Amsoil, K&N

 

I'm currently running the Nissan 15208-9E000 filter for 7,500 miles between oil changes. See no reason to think it could not do a good job for only 5,000 miles.

I base that opinion on the info in the stickies on this site. It appears that some Mobil 1 and other very pricy filters do a better job than this Nissan filter. But I think the 9E000 should be good enough for my Max. When I go to 10 K change intervals, I might consider the more expensive filters and not do a mid-interval filter change.

 

Thanks! anybody else run nissan filters for 5k or over without any filter changes inbetween?

 

I run mine for 4K max... I change oil every 6-7K...

 

Oil analysis...who, how, where, what?