S00NR1

iTrader: (3)

Tell me what won't make a bit of difference?

Personally, I think you just couldn't find anything else better to do on a Saturday night but continue an argument, even when your stance is completely off base.

Armelius

Well here is a guy in another thread:

Dave Holmes Dave Holmes is offline
Maximaniac

Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: North West, LA
Car: '97 Arctic Pearl White SE
Posts: 725


Quote:
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Castrol GTX 10W-30

I've used it since I've been driving and never had any engine issues. All my cars usually see upwards of 200,000 miles before I sell them. Blackstone Labs get a sample every now and then and my ware characteristics are excellent.

I briefly switched to Amsoil, a Blackstone labs report made me switch back. Sorry Amsoil gurus, the ware on an Amsoil extended run was worse then Castrol GTX at a normal change interval. The data is up on the spreadsheet on this forum, see for yourself. I dumped the Amsoil and went right back to Castrol. I'll never use anything else.


Same here, been using Castrol GTX (either 10w30 or now 5w30 in this Maxima) for years. With the exception of 2 intervals of Mobil 1 5w30, it is all I use. And the 2 intervals with Mobil 1 (for 3700 miles and 4800 miles) analyzed by Blackstone Labs made me switch right back because of high wear levels. Castrol GTX changed every 3000 miles shows consistently excellent results in many of the analysis I've seen.

I'm doing a run with the Castrol GTX Start Up 5w30 to see how it fares. And it was on sale for $11.46/6 qts at Advance Auto, so it cost the same as GTX. It will get changed out at 3000 miles and analyzed. I'll decide from there whether to continue running it or go back to GTX. But for me, synthetics do not provide any measurable benefit when I change oil every 3000 miles (which for me also coincides with 3 months). And changing oil that frequently guarantees I always have good oil and gives me the opportunity to get under the car to do any other maintenance/checks.

For those getting a good oil analysis from synthetics, stick with them. And if you get a good analysis from dino, stick with that. But I get the best results from Castrol GTX changed every 3000 miles (and my wallet thanks me, too).

Dave

talkinghorse wrote:
You're going to have to help me out here, as I looked at the spreadsheet and I don't see what you're talking about.

Therefore, the wear you were experiencing with AMSOIL was actually less per mile than it was with the other product...and this is the correct way to measure it. Also, the AMSOIL sample returned a higher TBN than the other product and it's viscosity at 100 deg C was at the higher end of the (30-wgt viscosity) spectrum where the other sample barely qualified as a 30-wgt after only 3400 miles of use.

His lead spiked using the Amsoil, even when figuring it by miles (.001875 for Amsoil compared to .001470 for Castrol). This alone would make me think twice about the oil. As for TBN, both were still relatively high, with both showing plenty of active additive left. Theoretically, this would mean both oils could have been used longer (according to the TBN fanatics), but the wear metals from the Amsoil show it just wasn't protecting the engine the way it should and needed drained. Personally, I don't care if my oil has a high TBN if it also has higher wear levels. And as long as it stays in grade for my change interval, I'm not too concerned with that, either. To me, the important thing is how well it is preventing wear. I fully expect my oil to be about worn out when I change it. That's why I do it...

Dave
Last edited by Dave Holmes : 12-21-2004 at 09:41 PM.

Virus

iTrader: (1)

Everyone, this guy is an idiot that likes to burn money by changing his oil every 3k. I change my wifes Durango 1 time a year with Amsoil 5w-30 motor oil. I had it 3 years before I sold it. I changed the oil 4 times. Total cost of oil changes with the Amsoil was $175 based on $5 a quart x 7 quarts and a Mobil 1 filter that costs $10. She had 50000 when we sold it. Let's say Castrol GTX costs $2 a quart x 7 quarts = $14 and oil change. Let's say you use a fram oil filter for $3 each oil change. You would change your oil 17 times over 50k. $14 + 3= $17x17=$289 over just 3 years. Both Blackstone labs and Oil Analyzers informed me with lab analysis that not only was my oil in fine shape after 1 year, I could have gone longer. So exactly how does changing your oil with dino oil every 3k save money? You are an absolute idiot. You have the the spreadsheet here at the top of this forum for proof, you have literally tons of data available at bobistheoilguy.com forums showing the value of synthetics and extended drain intervals, as well as chemists, master mechanics, and knowledge unequalled in this field of lubrication telling you that your opinion is wrong and you blindly state your right. This despite a mountain of data showing your absolutely wrong. You must be OJ Simpson.

Armelius

You think? You don't think. You just call people idiots. I have experiance. There are a few other on this site that have plenty of miles on their engines and they didn't use synthetics. Just read the back of the container. All they have to do is meet or exceed the set standards to get the rating.

You sold a durango, must not of been any good. I hear there was a recall on those.

I already told you I am spending about seven dollar per oil change. If it makes you feel any better sometimes I buy the 83 cent a quart stuff from Wal-mart and put that in my pathfinder. Why would I need a mountain of data when I have two fine running high mileage machines?

S00NR1

iTrader: (3)

Arguing with this guy is pointless. He has sat at his computer all night tonight waiting for each response to his posts.

Armelius

Hey, if it makes you feel any better the oil companies spend billions of dollars of profit just so they can advertise on Al Unsers car or the television/media to tell you how great their gas and oil products are compared to other oil companies.


Oxxon Oil For A Gullible America

Armelius

I remember just a few years ago that a gallon of gas was cheaper than a gallon of water.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Do you change your tires when they are 1/3 worn also?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Mercedes and Yugos were both rated safe enough to be sold in America correct. I guess they are exact same quality.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Who spends more on advertising? Makers of dino oil or synthetics??

Armelius

Keeping with the topic:

If the oil companies are paying 48 dollars a barrel of sweet crude how come it's cheaper to have it delivered from half way across the world, drilled nearly a mile or more deep, and shipped to some middle man to sell it and even advertising it's greatness over similar products?

If synthetics are so great how come it's more expensive per barrel?

I could make a comparison with whale oil. Oil from whales are so much better than synthetics, you can make more things and use it in extreme conditions. It will even last longer and is cleaner. The best perfumes and cosmetics would still use whale oil over synthetics. Why is that?

Companies and marketers have all kinds of claims on their products that they really don't have to prove. All natural, organic, and perhaps even call their product home made. Synthetics can do the same thing.

Look at diamonds. You can buy a synthetic diamond with all the qualities of a regular diamond but people still want diamonds from deep in the earth, why is that?

So, if sythetic oil is so good why are they still selling nasty crude in the market place? Synthetics been around a long time shouldn't they be inexpensive?

Armelius

I don't know. They could dump all the oil they produced today in the ocean sell what they have on the shelfs for .25 cents a quart and still make a profit compared to synthetic oil.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

And who hopes he will be doing that engine build? The dealer. There is much better profit in an engine installation than a couple of bucks of synthetic. Its called planned obsolescence.

Armelius

Volkswagons were great cars too. Just look at their old vans.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Still dodging. Got a picture under your valve cover yet? Thats proof.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Again. Total BS

You can't decide which opinion to push. I thought this was about spending less money. Now you want to push MPG?

****/Excrement are the products of digestion. Your car digests oil? Thats bad. My car uses oil to remove carbon and combustion material from the engine as well as lubricate the moving parts. Quite different from the human body.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Experiance? What is that? Do you mean experience? What kind of experience? Have you tested your oil? What were the TBN numbers per change? How much of each additive were left?

The answer is you don't know. You drain and refill your oil and think that that tells you something. In reality, it tells nothing. There are kids working at Jiffy lube that do more oil changes in a day than you do in a year and they have no idea which oil they sell holds up better.

Facts would be a UOA on your used oil or pictures under your valve cover. Got either? What are you scared of?

Armelius

Jeff and 2002 this was posted by Jeff on the first page:

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical that conventional non-synthetics.

I didn't say it. You are saying I am going to get over 31 mpg with synthetic oil right?

As far as engine rebuilds go I have no idea how much they cost at a dealer but I have seen plenty of my friends rebuild their american muscle car engines.

No, I haven't taken a picture of my cylinder heads. Maybe in about six months I might do that. Right now I would much rather repaint my hood or replace the windsheild with all it's damage from road crap.

Why do you not believe I am spending about seven dollars per oil change?

Armelius

Yeah, experience. How many miles on your car and how often do you get it annalized? I am saying I already have the miles. Getting the great gas mileage and performance from my engine and I used regular cheap oil at seven dollars an oil change on two nissan V6 engines.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you did. We began this argument about arguing the qualities of synthetic over dino. Then you said "but I pay less" so the argument changed to talking about how you could save money with extended drain interval. Then you said "but will I get 35mpg". You have a strategy of diverting in every thread you post. No one on here has posted a single thing about MPG but you.
Seems simple enough. Take a picture or get a UOA. That is factual. Sticking your finger in your used oil and stating your opinion is worthless. So, where are the pics?

Go to any store, any store, and add up the cost of 5 quarts of dino and a filter. It's no where close to $7. Apple to apple comparison is buying 5 quarts of synthetic and 5 quarts of regular from the same store. Wally sells 5 quarts of dino for around $12 and 5 quarts of synthetic for around $19. Given the same drain interval, you would spend less. However most people using synthetic can make that $19 go twice or three times as long. So, again, your opinion is you spend less but you do not.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Your opinion and BS on $7 oil change. Nothing more.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Does he change his liver with every second blood change?

Armelius

You are full of it. I never said anything about improved gas mileage with synthetic oil I asked Jeff in his post if he was saying I will get 35 mpg based on his number 10 myth post. Go back and read the whole thing over if you don't believe me.

And I said in the topic that synthetic isn't worth it. The other thread that was locked was touting the qualities of synthetic over regular oil. I even said that synthetics are probably better than regular oil but just isn't worth the cost.

I said I pay about 7 bux per oil change. Do you have a wal-mart in your area? I haven't spent 12 dollars on five quarts of oil ever. Hell, 48 bux can get me a whole barrel of oil.

Armelius

There it is in big bold red letters. I stated my gas mileage and I asked whoever cared to respond to include jeff who posted this if I am going to see 35 mpg with synthetic oil? You would think Nissan would use only synthetic in their cars so they can hype up their gas mileage claims, right?

Armelius

More than likely you are going to wear out your engine quicker from starting a cold engine all the time than travelling 55 mph until you get to 300,000 miles. That's with or without synthetics.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

You need to re-read. No one said anything about 35 MPG but you. Where in read does it say 35 MPG?

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Oh, on $7 for 5 quarts of oil and a filter at Wally.

Armelius

Nope I don't buy my filters at Wally I buy them at Discount Auto Parts. Right now they are on sale about 1.25 a piece. How many do you think I should buy before my engine goes? LOL

I am looking at the Haynes manual for the maxima and it says 4 1/4 quarts of oil. If oil is 1.33 a quart that's 5 bux plus 1.25 for a filter. If it's 1.60 a quart that's 6 + 1.25.

So far I haven't paid 2 dollars a quart. And I am basing what I see for mobile 1 synthetic for over five dollars a quart.

You might use five quarts but I don't. Like I said my 1995 maxima with around 240,000 miles probably gets the best gas mileage here on the org. and I use regular oil. There might be some better 1995 maximas here with lower mileage getting about the same or slightly better mpg as I do even if they use synthetics. But you are more likely to damage your engine from a cold start than travelling 60 mph for an extended period.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

I don't know. What's wrong with the engine? Too many oil changes today.

Armelius

What is "exclusive of carrier oil" again?

Here maybe you will enjoy this and your mobile 1 product. Just tell me what does exclusive of carrier oil means after some research.

http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

What was the brand oil and filter again? $7 =

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

So. Your point?

Torkaholic

I said, "Well how are you going to detect that abnormal wear or damage, since you apparently never test your oil anyway???

Do you understand the difference between proven fact and mere speculation? Just because you think it doesn't make it so."

You responded:


Hey, it mattered enough for you to offer it as a reason for using dino on a short-change basis. Once again, you offer a non-reason to support your opinioin, then try to slip away from it when it's shown for what it is -- meaningless.

You're "certain" based upon blind faith in dino oil. I'm certain of my position based upon lab data, mine and that from many others. So, how are your bearings wearing? How about your filtration? Ring wear? PCV function? You have no idea. I do.

Torkaholic

You need to do your own homework. But since you clearly don't. . .
Years ago, almost all syn makers dissolved the additive components in natural oil. There was a laundry list of technical reasons why they did this, but primarily, some of the then-current additives liked dissolving in dino better than syn, but once in, they were fine. Today, only a few off-the-beaten-path syn makers do this. Mobil, for example, went all-syn with M1 10-12 years ago or so.

Once again, "Mobil" makes oil. "Mobile" is a medium sized city on the Gulf Coast in Alabama.

Armelius

I don't know. I spend about 30 bux a week on gas I figure I can spend 7 bux every two months for oil. I already have the mileage, mpg and power, why would I need to spend more money for a product that is misleading?

Armelius

I don't know try Techron oil and DAP's brand filter.

Torkaholic

Progress. At least here, you've achieved half-correctness. Sure, even a long stretch of highway cruising is easier than a bunch of cold starts. Of course, with my 0w-30 syn, I get much better flow on a cold start than you ever could get with a 5w- or 10w- dino, and thus, much less wear on start. Maybe you should try a 0w-30 dino -- oh wait -- dino stocks are so limited that it's almost impossible to make a dino 0w-30.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

Techron is an additive for gasoline made by Chevron. Do you mean Chevron oil?

Still no way it is $7. I have to go to Wally today. We'll see.

Armelius

Progress indeed. And I am glad you get more flow with your oil. Now keep track of how much you spend and tell me if you get rid of your car or keep it until it has 300,000 miles.

2002 Maxima SE

iTrader: (3)

So you've decided to switch back to price. Something we have already proved we pay less by using synthetic. Any facts? Pics of those valve covers? UOA?