Anyone use this stuff yet? I got a coupon for 5 free quarts and have put it in. I hope its good stuff and should it hold up well?

Thanks,
Robert

oh and heres the link
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...lean_5000.aspx

 

I just dropped it in today after much needed change, so far so good, feels smooth but I also changed a dirty fuel filter. I'm will check it at 3K and see how dark the oil is.

 

FYI, the 5K is dino oil. The 10K is a synthetic blend. Only the 15K is pure synthetic.

 

i got the 5 free quarts too. I'm waiting to do a seafoam treatment first before the oil change. I'm interested to hear how it goes.

 

if you race or floor it a lot. DONT BE A CHEAPSKATE AND GET SYNTHETIC!!!! and if you are gonna buy the 15,000 synthetic oil, i think its a waste of money since there are no oil filters that can run up to 15,000 miles, not that i know of anyways

 

You will feel the difference, as I did back when I changed to pure syn.

 

the amsoil filters go 12.5K supposedly. And you can change your oil filter without changing your oil.

 

The m1 EP filters can go 15k and there due to be released any day now,

Also the syn blend goes 7500 not 10k

 

Yeah I'm thinking I might go synthetic after I run out of free oil. Should I be concerned since I have a 145kmi or is it ok to switch so late?

 

Synthetics will "find" leaks so be prepared to see a few spots. I switched at 70K and my oil pressure sender unit became the source of a leak. This is due to the more uniform nature of synthetic oil molecules.

 

Did you end up replacing your oil pressure sender unit? They are a common weak link in 4th Gens. I replaced mine almost 4 months ago at about 57.5K and I have never used synthetic oil.

 

Yeah, I replaced it the last time I did an oil change so the amount of spillage was limited.

 

What is the difference between the one with the silver top and the Extended Performance?

 

The color of the oil does not tell you very much. To properly determine how good the oil is after 3K miles (or any other interval), you need to send a sample to the lab for testing. Dark oil does not necessarily mean bad oil.

 

Read the labels. I don't know Mobil products well enough to recognize them by container description.

 

So, you missed the memo huh???

If you've read the Stickies about intervals you would have seen what most know.

You can (should) change the filter inbetween oil changes. Running Mobil 1 for 10,000 mile intervals? Change your filter at 5000.

 

I did. The one with the silver top is the original synthetic and the EP is synthetic. Whats the difference? (aside from the marketing hype about it being "better").

Then why respond to a question you don't know the answer?

 

Because you quoted me, it's as though you directly asked me a question. I tried to be courteous and answer it with an honest answer. Obviously, you missed that.

 

Sorry, I assumed from your response to Redline, you were "in the know" on the Mobil oils.

 

I got the coupon too. Gonna have to give it a go.

 

The regular M1 is the same GF-4 M1 we've known for some time now, its also very similar to the GF-3 that we have known for just about ever, The GF-4 is thicker than the GF-3 and there are a few other changes.

The EP M1 is all new, it can supposedly go 15k due to its increased amounts of additives (both anti-wear and cleaning) for instance it has 37% more supersyn in it than the reg. M1 (Supersyn is Mobils additive package)

This oil is probally most comparable to amsoil. Im sure its a great oil however i dont trust it for that lond in my engine, however i might go 10 or 12.5k on it eventually.

 

I bought the 15k mile full syn only cause it's for either 15k miles or a whole year. I'll only put on maybe 6-8k miles in that year but I know the oil can last that long. With other oils it maybe a 7.5k mile oil but it only last 6 months so I'll have to change the oil two times instead of just once with the full syn. Also since the ful syn states NO SPECIAL OIL FILTER REQUIRED, why would I need to change the filter half way through, which I won't?

 

I think the best analogy I heard w.r.t to changing your oil but not the filter goes something like this: It's like taking a shower but putting dirty underwear on.

 

I think you mean changing the filter but not the oil.
I understand that except the oil remains cleaner much longer and it protects better right? Then wouldn't filter be getting only a tiny bit dirty compared to dino oil anyway?

 

You are probably doing the right thing with the 15k oil I guess. Safe anyway.

But in reality, these maker's claims only hold on a good working engine. But any oil in a crap running engine and it will contaminate way before it's supposed to be changed. Not to say yours is like that. But the ONLY way to get an ACCURATE view of how you oil is doing is getting it analyzed. Until then, you are basicly just guessing.

 

Given that you will only be going about 8K miles in that year, a single filter should work for you. The point being made is that if you go for the full 15K miles, you should change the filter in the middle (about 7.5K miles) so that the new filter can remove more dirt from the oil than the old one will. There is also a chance that the old filter will go to bypass mode due to the plugging that occurs over those long miles (15K).

 

If you use a good filter (PureOne, M1 etc) then you shouldnt have to change it. However i still would, $5 every 6 months is cheap insurance. If a bypass valve gets stuck open or somthing on regular 3000mile/3month oil its not to big of a deal but for a full year it is cause for concern.

Also during the year make sure you get this car out on the highway for good long drives, to allow it to get all cleaned up by the filter, burn off any water, and burn off any gas.

 

where'd you get the coupon?

 

No longer avaible, they were on mobils site for a month.

 

how exactly do you change your filter with out changing the oil???
cause i mean when you take the filter off, wouldnt most of the oil drain outta the engine??

 

No. Remove filter, replace filter. Add a little more oil.

 

Synthetics don't "find" leaks. They clean better than dino oils, so they clean clogged areas, therefore exposing problems that existed in the first place.

 

Hence, they "find" leaks by cleaning clogged areas. Nowhere in my post did I say they actually create/cause leaks.