I am considering switching to a new synthetic oil that is being marketed in Canada, but is not available in the US yet. It is Esso XD-3 in a 0W30. I heard about it through bobistheoilguy.com and it is getting rave reviews and is considerably cheaper than Mobil 1. Esso is owned by Exxon.

Does anyone have any experience in using 0W30 oils? Is that weight fine to use in a 95Maxima with 59K mostly highway miles on it? I live on the coast of British Columbia where it never gets below 0 degrees Fahrenheit or higher than 90 Fahrenheit.

I am not aware of any oil leaks. I run Castrol GTX5W30 for the most part and the longest I have ever gone between oil changes is 4K.

Thanks

 

Well if those guys like it, it's probably quality oil. They still like the dino castrol GTX? That's what I"m using and my valvetrain is sparkling (@ 3-4k intervals). You really don't need a 0w oil though. You weather is just like ours in Seattle. As long as you don't experience any oil leaks, the 0W would be just fine IMHO. If it's a good quality/cheap 100% Synthetic, go for it.

 

There is a recent poll on BITOG where members are asked to state their ideal oil preference, with cost not being a consideration. The XD-3 is getting a lot of votes and people are in fact switching over from Mobil 1. A lot of people also like Redline and there has become quite a following for German Castrol.

I ordered a case of the 0W30 XD-3 locally through an Esso bulk dealership. It is not available in stores and they have to bring it in from Edmonton. We have 14% sales tax in BC (federal and provincial). So including tax it comes to Cdn$4.88/litre or about US$3.72 per US quart, based on current exchange rates. The 0W30 is 100% PolyAlphaOlefin (PAO), ie. is a full synthetic, not a blend.

In fact fellow .orger, kcryan, turned me on to the product yesterday when we were both on BITOG. He hasn't tried it yet as he would have to get it from Canada.

 

I have only now come across the thread polling the use of 0W30 and would appreciate any feedback from .orgers who posted in that thread. Sorry for any overlap between the two threads.

 

Hey let us know what you think of it, how much it costs, and if you feel like being really nice, do a UOA of it.
As i've said before (But in reference to german castrol) it is not a question of how thin it is on startup, actually i think thinner is better at startup, but it is a question of how thick it is at operating temp. To a certain extent i'm of the belief that thicker is better, a thin 40 weight is probally just a little to thick for me but a thick 30 weight (like GC and XD-3) is my ideal oil.

Good luck with this and please keep us posted, if this oil is that good i think im gonna have to take a drive up north and grab me some.

Also just to mention even though GC (and XD-3) is a 0w-30 i know that there are people in flordia, texas, calafornia, and all the other hot states that wouldnt think twice about running it.

 

See the price in post 3 above. Also look under Imperial Oil on the net, then under Esso, then Lubricants and pull up Esso XD-3. Imperial Oil is a publicly traded company in Canada, is the parent of Esso and is 70% owned by Exxon.

 

Yea GTX is still a great dino...You could always spice it up with a little Lube control and probally go 5k with it (Well they sai you could do 10k but i dont know about that far)

either way still a great dino

 

rmurdoch - sorry about hijacking...I posted these a few weeks ago... but it's sorta relevant here since you currently use the same oil

Here are pics of under my valve cover - I've been using Castrol GTX 5W30 for the last 80k (got the car used with 40k on it).

 

Looks like someone didn't change the oil for 1st 40k. I don't think Dino will help clean the old varnish off. Might want to try the AutoRX or Seafoam on the oil before the next oil change.

I've been using the GTX for 20-40k, I just took off my valve cover. Was sparkling clean. But it was run on some semi-synthetic for the 1st 65k. It's right about 100k now.

 

thats a clean valvetrain... alright.. thats it, I'm doing the seafoam thing. I ran some through the brake booster not to long ago - so I still have about 1/2 a can left to dump into the crank case.

 

Well I'm not stating that Seafoam will magicly make your valvetrain look like that. I think this engine never got dirty. (btw this is not mine but the valvetrain looks just as clean). From what I understand, it's best to gently clean the varnish off. ie.. it took 40k to get it that way, one shouldn't use those 15 engine flushes to try to clean it all out fast. Not that you would use that though.

I did in fact use some Seafoam in the oil about 100-200 miles before the oil change. AutoRX you need to keep using it (as you probably know). I would try the SF and try to note any changes. Might take 2-3-4 applications over that many oil changes to gently clean the varnish off.

 

Clean as a whistle, Jeff.

From the limited knowledge I have, but learning daily for the last couple of weeks on bitog, Seafoam and AutoRX serve different purposes but are compatible. An application of Seafoam through the brake booster hose does a great job of cleaining out the combustion chamber. AutoRX, when added to the oil can clean up the ring packs, but excels at deep cleaning of sludge from the crankcase and valve train mechanicals. AutoRX or Lube Control can then be used on a maintenance basis.

I gleaned this info from an AutoRX vs Seafoam thread I posted yesterday in the Additives, Fuel, Oil, Cleaners forum.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll stick with the seafoam for now. Will drop some in over the weekend and then I'll change the oil in a few days. I don't plan on opening up the valve cover to check for varnishing , so I'll just see what I'm getting out during the oil changes. I may eventually do the front valve cover gaskets and oil seals - that will give me an idea of whether the seaform worked.

 

You should keep the SF in there for longer than that. Maybe 1/2 tank of gas. And you can just take off the oil cap and not the whole valve cover. Remember, this stuff is not instant. Not supposed to be.

 

I'll run the seafoam for 250 miles or so in the crankcase (I'll check the can for their recommendation). Good point on the oil cap So much to learn... so much to learn. I will repeat the seafoam cycle for a few oil changes -> as you stated, it will be a gradual process (if it works at all). If I don't notice anything positive with the seafoam, I'll try AutoRX.

 

As I stated above, njmodi (not sure if you saw the post) you could also consider AutoRX and Lube Control on a maintenance basis once you're done. Touch base with kcryan. He is a big believer in Lube Control products. I'm not sure if he's a part owner, lol!

 

I did see your post and I appreciate you being tolerant of my thread whoring. I will look into those products too... I have read bits and pieces about AutoRX but never heard of Lube Control. Looks like I have some to do tonight.

 

Sign up to BITOG if you aren't already. There is a wealth of information, not only on lubricants, but Tires etc. etc. There are also member discounts. AutoRX just had a 4th of July discount that I missed as a result of procrastinating.

BITOG has some 8,000 members who, on average, I would say are quite knowledgeable. I haven't come to grips yet with all the terminology and technical mumbo jumbo that is thrown around but will try to learn more.

I should get a commission, lol!

 

Nope im not a part owner of LubeControl But id like to be......

As far as seafoam in the crankcase....I wouldnt do it, I would either do a AutoRx treatment(probally 1 or 2 treatments) or a LC flush(there i go again selling there products) Both will get rid of the varnish more slowly than seafoam.

although seafoam isnt the worst thing you can do, i would first try somthing like MMO if you wont try any of my above suggestions.

Remember this isnt sludge its just semi thick varnish..............

 

Why no SF?

 

It's ok to use SF in the crankcase and the transmission. It's a lubricant/cleaner that is made for what we're using it for.

 

Its substantially thinner than a 30 weight oil and therefore i feel as though it doesnt protect vital engine parts like somthing in your crankcase should, Its not reccomended for 250+ miles of driving, i believe it says to use it for 10 minutes of idiling.

Its your engine not mine but i wouldnt do it.

 

That is incorrect. Actually SF doesn't even have an interval time for how long to keep it the crankcase. For your reference:
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm

What you are referring to is engine flushes. Which are a totally different animal and one that have already referred to.

 

Your right, when i said "I believe" i meant to say i think but am not fully sure of. I'm not sure where i got this idea from. Although it does say "WORKS AND PERFORMS INSTANTLY" on the can so i dont see why it needs to go for 250 miles....

Either way i still wouldnt put somthing that thin in my oil.

It may work but there are options that are a little more expensive but in my opinion much better.

Your choice......and sorry for the confusion

 

Now can we please get back to the subject at hand, which is 0W30 synthetic oil and the merits of switching to it from Castrol GTX 5W30.

 

Just curious what intervals are you thinking of running with this XD-3? and have you decided on filters?

 

With respect to filters, I am thinking about hopping down to Bellingham and seeing what I can find there in the way of Purolator. They're too expensive here. That way I could pick up some Seafoam as well as I don't know where to get it locally. If I don't go that route, I'll just go with Nissan OEM or WIX which I can get at NAPA cheaper than OEM.

I may not be the best candidate for synthetic oil since I don't drive the Maxima that much and we have mild winters on the Coast of BC. However, I was hoping to get a 12 month, 5 or 6K OCI out of the Esso XD-3, 0W30 oil. If I buy it by the case and do the oil change myself, I am all in for a cost of about Cdn$32.50 with OEM filter or US$26. I have been doing a lot of 45-mile round trips lately (22 each way) at speeds of about 70MPH for 2/3 of the time and my current Castrol GTX 5W30 is nowhere near dark after 6 months and almost 3K miles.

I am also contemplating buying some of that Lube Control product to extend the OCIs in the event I start driving the Max more. It's hardly ever been used for commuting and gets quality miles on it and basically always has since day 1.

I understand that one of the strong points of the Esso XD-3, 0W30, is that its lends itself to longer OCIs based on what I read on the Imperial Oil website.

 

you should be fine with that OCI, highway miles are happy miles

 

What the heck is MMO?

 

The amount you put in, won't significantly affect the viscoscities. I stand by it until someone actually has more than their opinion.

 

MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil

 

Thanks.

 

MMO=Marvel Mystery Oil

Do a UOA and we'll see...........

 

I assume this is in reference to the viscosity of the oil after seafoam has been added to it?

 

I suspect you will find that Seafoam is fine for using through the brake booster cable, but there are other products more suitable for other applications, such as adding to the gas tank and crankcase. Some .orgers have a myopic view of the world and think that Seafoam is the panacea for all the world's problems, lol!

 

Well the Viscosity would be interesting to see in a UOA but id be more interested to see which wear metals were highest and how high they were......

I have no problem with seafoam in the brake booster (i've even done it myself) but i dont trust very many things in my oil.....

 

I understand now... You'd be interested in seeing a UOA after running with seafoam in the crankcase to see what (if any) wear/tear it might have caused.

I've been reading up on Auto-Rx...
Like you, I'm also wary about using anything in my engine...

 

I don't think you would have a problem with AutoRX based on what I have gleaned on BITOG. I haven't seen any disparaging comments on it yet and they are an active site sponsor.

 

Do analysis after the seafoam? I'm one of the guys that introduced Seafoam to this board. But I DON'T think it's a cure all either. It's the others that do that.

I guess if Seafoam is so dangerous, it would be all over the net about how it thins out oil and damages engines correct?

 

Then again, I doubt the seafoam would reduce the viscosity of a 10w or 5w down to a the 0w that you fellas want to run.