Basic Maintenance, 15,000 miles (15K)
Basic Maintenance, 15,000 miles (15K)
Against my better judgement, I am about to take my car in for the 15,000 mile maintenance next week. I expect this to cost between $150 & $200, and I've read a lot of folks who say it's easy to do yourself.
Well I have rotated the tires already, and I wouldn't want them to do it, perhaps a balance but that's it.
I always change my own oil, so there's no benefit to have them charge me for it. I have bought an air filter, so I can replace that myself. Although I've never done it so if there is a thread saying how to get that cover off I'd appreciate a link!
The only other thing is the in cabin air filter, how do I get at it, and can it be washed?
Other than that, is lubing my hinges and driveshaft really worth the trouble of leaving my car with the dealer for half a day, AND/OR the risk of them forgetting to tighten some bolt, or replace the oil cap and causing damage?
Thanks for any feedback, I'm off to read about how to replace auto tranny fluid.
-SS
Well I have rotated the tires already, and I wouldn't want them to do it, perhaps a balance but that's it.
I always change my own oil, so there's no benefit to have them charge me for it. I have bought an air filter, so I can replace that myself. Although I've never done it so if there is a thread saying how to get that cover off I'd appreciate a link!
The only other thing is the in cabin air filter, how do I get at it, and can it be washed?
Other than that, is lubing my hinges and driveshaft really worth the trouble of leaving my car with the dealer for half a day, AND/OR the risk of them forgetting to tighten some bolt, or replace the oil cap and causing damage?
Thanks for any feedback, I'm off to read about how to replace auto tranny fluid.
-SS
You don't need an air filter at 15,000 miles. Since you have rotated the tires and will be changing the oil, I wouldn't bother taking the car to the dealership at this early stage. You also don't need to replace auto tranny fluid at 15K, perhaps at 30K, but certainly not at 15K.
Keep the receipts for the oil and filter and write the mileage on them when you change the oil.
Do all the visual checks listed in the maintenance schedule provided with your car and you should be good to go for another 15K, apart from tire rotations every 7,500 miles and regular oil changes.
I don't believe there is anything to lubricate, other than the door hinges.
Keep the receipts for the oil and filter and write the mileage on them when you change the oil.
Do all the visual checks listed in the maintenance schedule provided with your car and you should be good to go for another 15K, apart from tire rotations every 7,500 miles and regular oil changes.
I don't believe there is anything to lubricate, other than the door hinges.
Thanks Bobo,
Well I already have the air filter, and whether it's imagined or real, I've recently noticed a little accelerator lag, so I thought it couldn't hurt.
I dont have all the receipts for the oil change, but I do it every 3,000.
I wouldn't know what to look for doing the 'inspections', but there is something listed to be 'lubed' that sounded like it was related to the drivetrain, I'd have to consult the manual (which is out in my car) for the exact wording it says.
What about that in-cabin air filter, how do I get that thing out?
Thanks again
Well I already have the air filter, and whether it's imagined or real, I've recently noticed a little accelerator lag, so I thought it couldn't hurt.
I dont have all the receipts for the oil change, but I do it every 3,000.
I wouldn't know what to look for doing the 'inspections', but there is something listed to be 'lubed' that sounded like it was related to the drivetrain, I'd have to consult the manual (which is out in my car) for the exact wording it says.
What about that in-cabin air filter, how do I get that thing out?
Thanks again
I don't know anything about the in-cabin air filter. Search the 6th Gen Forum.
What kind of driving do you do? City, highway, percentage of each. It strikes me that oil change intervals of 3K are overkill. How many months do you go between oil changes? Every 6 months is adequate.
Perhaps you should also consider switching to synthetic oil at 20K or so - maybe Mobil 1 10W30 in your climate.
What kind of dino oil and filter are you presently using?
What kind of driving do you do? City, highway, percentage of each. It strikes me that oil change intervals of 3K are overkill. How many months do you go between oil changes? Every 6 months is adequate.
Perhaps you should also consider switching to synthetic oil at 20K or so - maybe Mobil 1 10W30 in your climate.
What kind of dino oil and filter are you presently using?
Probably about 50/50 highway city, but in the future that will probably go to 20% highway 80% city.
I dont mind the overkill with the regular (non-synth) oil. I use Penzoil at the recommended weight with a new Fram oil filter every 3K.
My main concern was the inspections, which I feel are marnginally beneficial at best, and like I said, the lubrication of the drivetrain.
Thanks again.
I dont mind the overkill with the regular (non-synth) oil. I use Penzoil at the recommended weight with a new Fram oil filter every 3K.
My main concern was the inspections, which I feel are marnginally beneficial at best, and like I said, the lubrication of the drivetrain.
Thanks again.
Try Castrol GTX 10W30 and avoid the Fram oil filters like the plague. They are junk and this is common knowledge on this website. Stick with Nissan OEM, Wix, Purolator PureOne or NAPA Gold, but NOT Fram.
I don't know what you mean by lubrication of the drivetrain. I suspect it can't be done.
I don't know what you mean by lubrication of the drivetrain. I suspect it can't be done.
Originally Posted by Smoke_Screen
It says in the manual to lubricate the "propeller shaft".
What is that?
And how do I reset the "Check Engine" light if I do this all myself.
What is that?
And how do I reset the "Check Engine" light if I do this all myself.
There is no need to reset the CEL.
Ok, well it didn't seem to exclude Maxima's on the propeller shaft, but I'll defer to your apparent expertise. Now, on the matter of the "CEL", I'd prefer not to drive my car for the rest of it's life with that light on, so if you do not know how, that's ok, but I kind of do "need" to.
Thanks for everything,
SS
Thanks for everything,
SS
Originally Posted by Smoke_Screen
Ok, well it didn't seem to exclude Maxima's on the propeller shaft, but I'll defer to your apparent expertise. Now, on the matter of the "CEL", I'd prefer not to drive my car for the rest of it's life with that light on, so if you do not know how, that's ok, but I kind of do "need" to.
Thanks for everything,
SS
Thanks for everything,
SS
Is the CEL in fact on? This came out of left field as you haven't referred to it before. If its on, go to Auto Zone and get them to check for codes.
Yeah, it's on currently. My assumption was that it's 'cause of the 15,000 mile mark having been passed and they want to scare you into the dealer. However, I will have A.Z. check it out. Thanks for the advice.
-SS
-SS
Originally Posted by Smoke_Screen
Correction, its not the "Check Engine" light, it is the "Service Engine Soon" light.
So is that something I can/should reset myself? And if so, how??
So is that something I can/should reset myself? And if so, how??
Just start a thread specific to the SES light.
If the light is on it means there is a problem, not that routine service is due. If you are under wareentte, bring it to the dealer to find out what is wrong. Do the routine maintance yourself if possible.
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