Autorx on tranny....now it slips
Autorx on tranny....now it slips
I recently did an autorx treatment on my transmission and gave it a flush this past weekend. I put in mobile 1 atf and ever since I have felt my transmission slip at times. It does not do it very often but maybe 1 time a day or so. I had synthetic in there before with no problems so putting new synthetic in should not be a problem. Oh yea it is a 99 max gle with 110k miles on it. Again I had synthetic before and no problems until I did the treatment and flushed the tranny. Is there anything I can do to remedy this?
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need more info.
when you say flush, do you mean a t-tech or pressure flush, or just a full fluid exchange (via the cooler line, for example)?
what is the previous maintenance history?
the autoRx is no longer in there, right?
describe the tranny slip - what driving conditions & gears (starting from a stop, downshifting to pass, etc)? how much throttle are you giving it?
what exactly makes you believe it is slipping (RPMs shoot up but car goes nowhere?)
when you say flush, do you mean a t-tech or pressure flush, or just a full fluid exchange (via the cooler line, for example)?
what is the previous maintenance history?
the autoRx is no longer in there, right?
describe the tranny slip - what driving conditions & gears (starting from a stop, downshifting to pass, etc)? how much throttle are you giving it?
what exactly makes you believe it is slipping (RPMs shoot up but car goes nowhere?)
I did a full fluid exchange with the cooler line so the autorx is no longer in there. I have found the tranny usually slips when passing and it downshifts. For instance today when coming home I revved up to about 5k rpms and came to a stop shortly afterwards (dont ask) and when I came to a stop the rpms were at 1k. As soon as I gave a little gas to move ahead the tranny slammed into gear, it was as if I was sitting there inbetween gears or something. The other day as the car leaving a gas station I could feel a slip when I was around 3k rpms, it felt like my old accord that had a busted tranny (the 2000-2001 models are notorious)
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so how long had the previous fluid been in there?
was the previous fluid the autoRx rinse phase or clean phase? or is the current fill the autoRx rinse? if this is the rinse phase you may have some crud floating around plugging up your valve body, or plugging up the strainer. or the autoRx could've cleaned away the crud that was keeping your clutches working.
you live in phoenix, which means you cook ATF whenever you drive. in that heat you need to do a drain/fill every 10-15k or a cooler flush every 25k (I'd say even with synthetic). if the factory dino had been run for 50k or more then you certainly had some serious build up.
my suspicion is the autoRx caused your problems by cleaning away the crud that your tranny had come to depend on for friction in the clutches. a power flush will do the same thing (but you didn't power flush).
if it were my car I'd drop the pan and check things out. the magnets will be nasty, but that's normal. look for crud or metal debris laying in the pan, and filter your ATF through a coffee filter and look for metal.
Also with the pan off, check out the filter screen - shine a flashlight up in there and see if the wire mesh is plugged. you may want to change it even if it looks ok. CAUTION - changing that thing is tricky. technically you have to drop the valve body to do it -- DON'T attempt that unless you happen to be a trained tranny tech. there is a single bolt where the bolt head is on the top of the VB and you cannot access it from underneath - you can, however, hold the bolt end (not the head) with a vice grip as you carefully turn the nut loose. if you can get that one off, you can easily replace the filter screen.
oh, one more dumb question -- you have checked the ATF level since you did your flush, right? check it hot, engine idling in park?
was the previous fluid the autoRx rinse phase or clean phase? or is the current fill the autoRx rinse? if this is the rinse phase you may have some crud floating around plugging up your valve body, or plugging up the strainer. or the autoRx could've cleaned away the crud that was keeping your clutches working.
you live in phoenix, which means you cook ATF whenever you drive. in that heat you need to do a drain/fill every 10-15k or a cooler flush every 25k (I'd say even with synthetic). if the factory dino had been run for 50k or more then you certainly had some serious build up.
my suspicion is the autoRx caused your problems by cleaning away the crud that your tranny had come to depend on for friction in the clutches. a power flush will do the same thing (but you didn't power flush).
if it were my car I'd drop the pan and check things out. the magnets will be nasty, but that's normal. look for crud or metal debris laying in the pan, and filter your ATF through a coffee filter and look for metal.
Also with the pan off, check out the filter screen - shine a flashlight up in there and see if the wire mesh is plugged. you may want to change it even if it looks ok. CAUTION - changing that thing is tricky. technically you have to drop the valve body to do it -- DON'T attempt that unless you happen to be a trained tranny tech. there is a single bolt where the bolt head is on the top of the VB and you cannot access it from underneath - you can, however, hold the bolt end (not the head) with a vice grip as you carefully turn the nut loose. if you can get that one off, you can easily replace the filter screen.
oh, one more dumb question -- you have checked the ATF level since you did your flush, right? check it hot, engine idling in park?
Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 153
From: south fl.
Hey bro,
Just a dumb question. If it was working prior to rx treatment, why screw with it? If it ain't broke don't fix it. I Personally steer clear of treatments like this. Just use top notch fluids and she'll treat you well. When it breaks then repair it. All these treatments are nothing more than cleaners and seal swellers, and if nothing at all just pure problematic. Just my 2 cents. I feel your pain bro
Just a dumb question. If it was working prior to rx treatment, why screw with it? If it ain't broke don't fix it. I Personally steer clear of treatments like this. Just use top notch fluids and she'll treat you well. When it breaks then repair it. All these treatments are nothing more than cleaners and seal swellers, and if nothing at all just pure problematic. Just my 2 cents. I feel your pain bro
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 132
While I think Auto-RX does an EXCELLENT job at removing deposits, I also think it may do too good of a job.
I used it in my 3.5 Altima and shortly after the rinse phase I got the timing chain rattle around sustained load/2krpm. Coincidence? Maybe, but I think auto-rx should be left for sludged motors, neglected/near death trannys and other poorly maintained systems. It did wonders on my father's LHS. It was not sludged, but really made it quieter upon start up and under most operating conditions.
I'm sorry to hear about your problems. I would put in dino-based dexron III by flushing via the cooler lines. If you still have problems you can either live with it or rebuild.
I used it in my 3.5 Altima and shortly after the rinse phase I got the timing chain rattle around sustained load/2krpm. Coincidence? Maybe, but I think auto-rx should be left for sludged motors, neglected/near death trannys and other poorly maintained systems. It did wonders on my father's LHS. It was not sludged, but really made it quieter upon start up and under most operating conditions.
I'm sorry to hear about your problems. I would put in dino-based dexron III by flushing via the cooler lines. If you still have problems you can either live with it or rebuild.
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