zgrm100

Im going to have to change my oil alrady because i hit 3000 miles. I have a question. Im gonna do it at a local gas station, but can u suggest the best one? Mobil shell? Which oil is better, thanks...

mdeal

iTrader: (2)

I'm not sure about a local gas station, but myself, and many others, like Mobil 1.

Draco

Personally, I wouldn't take my car to have the oil changed at any other place then the dealer. Those quick lube shops don't give a crap about your car.

Either do it yourself like most people on this board, or take it to the dealer...

eortiz15

I wouldn't recommend a local gas station on a brand
new car. You spent enough money on that car to have
something broken by a unexperienced or careless wanna
be mechanic.

zgrm100

so ur saying that i shouldnt go to a mobil station to change my oil? What tyoe oil does nissan dealership use?

TimW

iTrader: (6)

do your own.. its so very simple... and you'll save a mint (and know it done right).. you dont even have to get under the car! I did mine in <10 mins. I took mine to the dealer the first few times... but when I realized how easy it is, I was was embarrassed!

btw, many exxon stations will accept your used oil.. call ahead (or stop by prior to draining just to make sure).

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

I hate all this crap about how Synthetic oils are better for the car than Regular oils. I mean you people are not Racing these cars to 150+mph and actually making that oil go to its limit.

Regular oil will ALWAYS do just fine NO MATTER what. You will never get to a situation that you engine is going to last longer because you put in Synthetic. Damn, maybe it will last a year longer after 25yrs. That is if you want to still have it for that long.

Sheesh......

Dixit

TimW

iTrader: (6)

Your generalization about oil is total BS.

do you send YOUR oil to be wear checked? well, I DO!

I have the black stone labs reports that I've openly shared here showing that FOR MY CAR, syn is better. Syn is VERY good for short trip cars. They even market it toward short commute cars. It works. My car has less wear than average when using syn. and thats with the hardest driving you can do outside of racing, short commutes of less than 10 mins.

But, that's all been posted here. Its only $18, put your money where your mouth is and have yours checked (add to the oil speadsheet). I think you'll find your results average. But they wont touch syn.

I'm not trying to defend the extra money I spend on Mobile1. For me, I have all the proof I need. Regular oil will be perfectly fine for most cars in many driving conditions. I suggest owners, who are interested, read the oil info and decide if their driving habits dictate they use *added* protection of a syn oil. Your mileage will vary.

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

I saw the Thread on that, but it was too complicated to figure out. LOL!!!

But I have a 2001 Suzuki GSX-R600 Bike and most people will tell you not to put Synthetic oil in it because it is not good. I hot rod my bike all the time like pushing it to 150+mph on the highway and what not.

But I agree with you it is good for short trips and less wear, but I dont know if it is worth the extra 400% in cost in the long run.

Considering the average person only keeps a car 3-4yrs. Me it is like 1-2 yrs. So to me I dont really care since Average oil in a car should still make it last far beyond 100k miles.

Dixit

melanthius

Um...... LED's don't have *any* gas inside. WTF is a Xenon LED?

Oh yeah, and do you get a discount or a refund or anything for doing your own oil at Exxon?

BigDogJonx

iTrader: (7)

Chill Main Man, I just meant it as XENON look. If you want I will change the sig for you. Alright partner?

Dixit

almason

Bikes are not cars, so the 'slippery oil is better' rule that you get with synthetic oils does not always apply to bikes. Some bikes use 'wet' clutches and other internal mechanisms that require a certain amount of friction in the oil- friction that you would not get running synthetic oil. This is why motorcycle manufacturers are very specific on the oil needed and often warn against using synthetics.
--- But, if you have a car, synthetic wins over dino oil very time.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

actually, syn is not recommended for the RX7. There are a few cases where syn is too slippery.

Excluding extended drains, which my oil analysis suggests I dont push too far above 4500 (oil is still perfect but the air filter let too many insoluables thru), there is isnt a whole hell of a lot of difference.

What I hope to achieve by using it.
1. I try to warm the car up, but dont always get to wait that long before I need to go. I'm getting some added protection there.
2. Syn is easier to pump at lower temps, added startup protection, albeit a VERY tiny bit
3. I'm in the south, it hits 115 here. I dont have to worry about oil instability.
4. I actually, and this is just for me, get a slight bump in mileage. No more than 1-2 mpg, but its enough to pay for the added cost (at premuim gas prices) of Mobile1.

I pay about $20 for the Mobil1 and OEM filter and do the change myself (dealer wants $50 for mobile1 change - NOT WORTH $50!). So I compare that to the price of a dino dealer change. I save money by using syn. Pennies, but again, just another reason to use it.

So what to I hope to accomplish? A car that doesnt smoke or consume oil in 4-5 years. I switched at 14K. I'm trying to prolong the condition of the engine after giving it ample time to break in.

again, I dont see anyone spending $50 at the dealer for a syn change. thats too much for the return. But if you do it yourself, its only $10 extra for the oil.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Originally posted by BigDogJonx


See my sig.



Most wear occurs at COLD STARTUP. If your car runs all the time, then you have a point. I let my car rest everyday.



Try telling that to Porsche, whose OEM requirements are synthetic.

Another example: Wind chill 20 below, air temp at around zero degrees, car has been sitting a good 12 hours. I ask this question: Which oil will get everywhere inside the motor quicker?

Blanket assessments only illustrate your true ignorance.



Links, info? I'm eager to learn.



Again: links, info? I'm eager to learn.



So what if I do. What do you care?

Dixit,

Wow, you must be some kind of expert on oil to have this vast knowledge. Please teach us village idiots more.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Originally posted by BigDogJonx


Someone as well versed in oil as yourself unable to figure it out? Really?





I didn't know motorcycle and car engines were exactly the same.



400%?

Let's see, I pay about $4.50/quart for Amsoil (not $9 as some ignorant people claim it costs). I go at least three times as long drain interval wise as I would with dino oil (I've resolved to 20k with Amsoil, but would only do 5k with dino, so I'm actually being conservative here). I can because I'm not in the short trip crowd. That immediately kicks my real oil cost down to $1.50/quart. This means that 400% would be 38 cents/quart for dino oil.

The point is, you shouldn't generalize. This doesn't even mention the GALLON or so less oil that I use, which automatically means I care more about the environment.....



I've really never seen someone spew off so many numbers and "facts". It's wonderful to have you as a resource here with so much knowledge.

unferth33

heh.. my best time is like 30 minutes.. that dang fiber type cover is irritating....

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

Mustang1999

Bwhahahahahahahaha....

Nice Sprint, niiice..

TimW

iTrader: (6)

haha...

pjandres

Pls tell me how to change the oil (and filter) without getting under the car. My aparment complex has NO flat surfaces and I'm always worried about jacking up on an incline.

DenMax

That complicates things with the no flat spots. You might try putting a wheel chock/block to prevent rolling. You don't have to jack it up. Just turn the wheels all the way to the right, and take off the fender flashing/guard. You'll see the filter facing you. The drain plug is under the engine facing the firewall about six to ten inches under. You'll feel the big bolt/drain plug bolt. Just unscrew and voila! oil everywhere. Remember to put the oil pan in a place that will catch the oil when it is flowing fast and when it slows down. You might need a filter wrench to get the filter off. Good Luck. I don't think I forgot anything. Guys???

TimW

iTrader: (6)

the plastic cover is two phillips screws and a 10mm bolt up front. 15 secs to remove. some peeps can remove the two screws and move the flap out of way... or dont remove the flap at all (kinda difficult).

melanthius

Can anyone take some pictures of an oil change, or at least what things to look for when changing oil? It's not listed in the installation/how-to's thread!

Thanks

pjandres

Yes, pix please.

TimW

iTrader: (6)

the reason that we dont is that its SOOO simple.

Literally, go out and turn your car to the right, now go look under the fender. all the mysteries of life revealed! well, the oil ones at least.

If you turn to the left and peek back under the right wheel well, you will easily see the plug. its all right there.

If you can, remove the right tire the first time. That makes it all SUPER easy. Sometimes I still remove the tire, just depends on how limber I feel that day.

since this all newbie territory, I have to say this, if you do remove that tire, do not over torque the lugs when putting it back on, thats reason #1 for warped rotors.

zgrm100

So the brand of oil doesnt matter if i dont use synthetic? Like shell mobil, its all the same for my car? What brand do dealers use for regualr 30 dollar change?

almason

Shell or Mobil regular (non-synthetic) oil is just fine, though you will find that most on this board (myself included) swear by syntehtic oil. Per your owners manual, you need to use a 5W-30 viscosity oil API certified as grade SG/SH or SJ. These numbers/letters will be listed on the oil container. Nissan allows for the use of 10W-40 viscosity oil in the same grade if the ambient temperature is always above zero degrees F.

MaxedOut2g

i got my last change at the dealer at about 10300 miles or so, and now im at 13600 miles, [about 3300 miles]....how many more miles can i run my car and be 100% positive that nothing is damaged even the slightest bit? cuz i have a lot of driving to do this weekend and im kind of hesistant to push my car more than 4k rpms....also, how much do filter wrenches cost?
A_T_W

hyunwoo2308

yea..plz post pics..i wanna learn..dont like takin it to jiffy lube cuz i dont like other pple touching da MAX..haha
(really dont know too much bout cars but im learin hella lot from dis org)

Keep on posting my Maxima Brothers!

thanks
DC

eortiz15

I wouldn't recommended. But then again, it's my opinion
and not shared by others

I believe Nissan uses either Shell or Mobil, but they do
other vital inspections besides just changing the oil.

For the 3.75k recommended service, retail price $23.95
at my local dealer they do the following...

Change engine oil and filter
Check and fill all fluids: coolant recovery reservoir,
brake, power steering and transmission
Inspect and adjust air pressure in all tires
Inspect windshield wiper condition and fill washer fluid
Inspect drive belts for wear
Inspect cooling system hoses and connections
Inspect operation of exterior lamps, turn signals and
hazard warning lights.

It's about $4 more expensive than taking to a local mechanic. To me, it's worth the peace of mind.

almason

You are still under warranty, so stick to the maintenance schehdule in the owners manual. That is every 3,750 miles for "severe service" which is the standard for most Max owners living in a city of any size. Check your owners manual for a description of the requireed service and save your receipts for warranty purposes if the service is not from the dealer.

Eric L.

Unless you drive all short (under 5 mile) trips in freezing or super hot weather, your oil will last 5k without any problems. If you have synthetic oil, you can go 7.5k. Oil analyses from Maxima owners have shown that the 3k change interval is a myth, and that oil lasts much much longer than you think it will.

Oil color is also not an accurate indication of oil condition. On some cars, the oil will be black 100 miles after the oil change. On other cars, like my mother's 99 Camry, the oil looks brand new (literally) after 7000 miles (I'm not kidding, I swear the oil was changed yesterday but nope, it was 7000 miles ago).

TimW

iTrader: (6)

Eric, check out my entry on the oil chart. The oil itself is fine, but blackstone didnt recommend going over 4500 because of insolubles (which I assume got past the OEM air filter - changed 1000 miles before this tested batch of oil). Mind you this is a very short trip car. I think if I had a commute, I could be doing 7500 miles drains, like shing and the rest. I would certainly recommend that anyone who does do extended drains, that they should spend the $18 to test it, just to be sure.

see5

I believe that synthetics hold up better and longer under severe condtions. Holds viscosity especially well.
Walmart sells Mobil 1 in five quart jugs for about $17.50 so if you do your own changes why not use it.
The 97 and newer Corvettes specify Mobil 1 as the only approved oil.

g dogg

When installing new filter, apply a small amount of new oil on the rubber gasket on oil filter too keep gasket from tearing, also only hand tighten filter back on, do not crank it back on with filter wrench it may also tear the gasket and make it extremly hard to take off filter on next oil change.( 1 full turn after gasket makes contact with motor should suffice.) I remove oil cap on valve cover when draining oil too help it flow steady out of motor instead of "burpping" out and splashing all over.