Rotella T Synthetic Diesel 15w40 owns everyting else on the market. (well synthetic diesel oil in general does).

 

are you serious Neal?

 

Yes, I have read it is an awesome oil. It has great reports on bitog

I might have to run it when I find a good turbo

 

i use castrol in my cars if for some reason i cant find that... my 2nd choice would be valvoline...i think wix makes a good filter... or id say a "nissan" filter.... although i think we have all heard that theres only a few makers of filters and they put every1's name on them ( i dont know how true that is and if it matters- i change mine at 3000miles)

 

Esso (Exxon) Extra

Will be switching to Petro Canada

 

but a 15w40? Kinda thick. I was looking at it when I picked up my oil at walmart...

 

I use Castrol GTX 5w-30 along with Nissan Filter.

 

I use AMsoil full synthetic motor oil with a Defense filter

 

Castol/BMW TWS 10W60.

 

listen you guys if your still trying to figure out whats the best
oil/filter/or additive to use i can tell you the secret stuff

its called using ROYAL PURPLE oil along with mixing in a can of
BG MOA oil additive as far as filtration goes i use NAPA'S GOLD
oil filter or you could use a wix filter same thing 59 pleats
of filtration vs- a fram tough guards 39 pleat filter

heres the proof in the scientific world of DATA AND FACTS!.. go to

http://intellistickoilcondition.word...er-protection/

 

Mobil 1 High Mileage oil & filter every 7500 miles (Last oil change, I bought one of those filter magnets from Summit just for the hell of it).

 

Mobil 1 fully synthetic extended performance with a Mobil 1 filter
that's what's up.

 

I voted other: Eneos.

 

Valvoline max life full syn. It is hard to find, in fact the guy at Autozone told me they do not make a full syn, but I found it at one of my local Walmarts but not the other.

 

i've used pennzoil/quaker state but switched to castrol gtx and use either a wix or fram filter...

 

After reading a few UOA threads on other sites Mobil wont get another dollar from me. Their oil BLOWS and has been known to shear severely in 1500mi and they switched from Group IV to Group III base stocks about 3-4 years ago and continued to charge the same for inferior oil.

My 3000GT VR-4 only gets Redline 10w-40 and my Maxima gets Chevron Delo 400. HDEO's give you the best bang for your buck.

http://www.gtotwinturbo.com/images/oilreport/D86157.jpg

 

I switched the Maxima over to Valvoline MaxLife full synth about a year or so ago. Haven't noticed any issues. Up 'til then, I'd been using various full synths, depending on price...Castrol Syntec, Valvoline SynPower, etc. I think right after we got the car (new) I used Castrol Syntec Blend. Switched to full-synth after about a year. Always 5w30, of course. I do 3-6k mile OCIs.

 

Actually all oils perform differently in engines. You can't compare a UOA for one engine and expect that oil to perform the same in another engine.

The VQ35DE is known for having extreme shearing properties more than a lot of engines. You might want to visit this site and review the UOA's for the VQ35DE and Redline you may rethink your decision.... It's not that great in the VQ..

http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...-and-info.html

Also make sure you read the first page you might learn a few things about oil base stocks.

 

while it wont perform identical (hell the results wont be the same in side the same engine family) its a fairly good indicator. The UOA threads i referred to were for more than just the 6G72 engine

While the VQ may be hard on oil the 6G72 Twin Turbo in my 3000GT is harder on oil. Redline has been proven in this engine on many occasions and on the road course.

The problem with the avg UOA on Redline is that people do it on their first OCI. Well normally that's all well and good however with a PAO Ester based oil such as redline its really good at cleaning out gunk in the engine. That shows up on UOA and makes it look 'bad' however when its used for 2-3 OCI straight the oil shows that its very resistant to shearing and offers great protection under the most sever conditions.

Fact of the mater is Mobil 1 is over rated and has sold out. They were the ones who sued over Castrol using Group III base stocks and calling them "synthetic." Now years later they are selling Group III and passing it off the same as their old formula Group IV oil.

Also you'll note that the linked thread talks very highly of HDEO in the VQ. Most HDEO offers pretty much the same level of protection since longhaul fleets monitor their UOA closely to get the most life out of their oil. They find on that works and they stick with it. Delo 400, Rotela T (dino and syn) and Castrol Tection for example have shown very good UOA in the threads i've seen.

 

Yes. I've done a lot of researched and while I'm not an oil analysis guru I'm convinced it is the best thing out there readily available.

 

Yup the only reason i dont use it is cause i can get the Delo 400 at costco for $10 a gallon (case of 6 for $60) $15 oil changes=WIN

 

Group III / IV doesn't matter you've been sucked into all the hype the oil companies were hoping you would be.... It's the ADDITIVE package that makes the oil not the base stock....

 

When it comes to resistance to heat and shear Base stock does matter. UOA has shown that Group IV and V oil performs better under long term high stress conditions...Perhaps you should go read your own thread....

 

Yeah whatever.... Keep up the FUD....

 

I have seen UOA of enough so called good Group 3 oils to know they dont perform as well as group 4 and 5 oils. Additive packages do a lot of good things but its kinda like choosing between a yugo and a Ferrari as a car to modify. The base stock is JUST AS important as the additive package, if you don't understand that then you simply don't understand oil.

If you want to waste your money on a fake synthetic such as M1 or want to run an oil with a ton of VII that's your choice. My point is there are better cheaper oils out there that dont pretend to be something they are not.

Oh and in case you are wondering the Chevron Delo 400 that I run is a Group III base stock, so I clearly dont think that Group III us bad. I just think that a Group 3 'synthetic's' such as M1 have been shown to be poor performers and are EXTREMELY overpriced.

 

LOL.... You assume I run M1. You reference in your other comments that Group III base stock synthetics are inferior based on UOA and now they are EXTREMELY over priced. Funny thing is you can find M1 on sale almost every week across the country. Last time I checked it was less than the oil I run.

Nothing wrong with Group 3 base stocks as you unfortunately got caught regarding Delo 400. Funny thing is Delo 400 is excellent BECAUSE of the additive package, any HDEO will perform (IMO) really well in FI engines since they are designed for high heat, high shearing, commercial purposes.

I have several UOA's from other VQ owners UOA's that contradict you regarding M1 but hey your results are all that matter... LOL

First, synthetic oils are not 100% synthetic unless you are buying just the base oil, since synthetic oils still use additives, and sometimes, a carrier oil. PAO based synthetic oils are a good example of this. Since PAO's are saturated hydrocarbons, they make for very poor solvents, and are therefore lousy at suspending additives. So, a PAO based synthetic must use another oil, like a Group3 product or AN or ester, as a carrier to hold the additive pack in suspension. Despite this fact, many companies believed that only majority PAO or G5 based engine oils should be called "synthetic", while companies like Castrol (owned by British Petroleum) and Shell used severely hydrocracked base stocks (Group 3) way back in the seventies, and called them synthetics.

The API made an official definition of what constituted a synthetic during a SAE Technical Meeting on Engine Oils 1, and hydroprocessed lubes qualified.

The definition is: “Oils produced by synthesis (chemical reaction) rather than by extraction or refinement.”

In 1992 Castrol began using Shell base stocks (Group3 XHVI) for their synthetic line. In 1999, competing oil companies complained to the National Ad Council of the Better Business Bureau that it was misleading for Castrol to label their G3 based oils as “synthetic”. However, based on the API definition, Castrol was not in any violation of fair advertising policy.

Further, the definition of synthetic was left open by the Ad Council for each company to determine for their own product line. This means that a “synthetic” oil must meet the API definition of being a synthetic, but one company’s synthetic line may use a G3 base oil, while another company’s synthetic line of oils might be G4, G5, or a blend of the three- it’s up to the manufacturer to decide.

You should realize by now that one base stock does not guarantee a better oil. There is far more to it. The combination of proper viscosity, additives used, and the type of base stock are all different for each oil. In fact, many tribologists say the additive package of an oil contributes more to it’s performance than the base stock.

 

You know maybe if you actually read my whole posts you'd realize that we are pretty much saying the same thing. You might also realize that:

• Maxima runs Delo 400
• 3000GT VR-4 runs Redline 10W-40

What people really need to take from this thread is that most synthetics, M1, syntec, etc. (no matter how you classify the term synthetic) dont perform as well as HDEO's. HDEO provides much better protection at a fraction of the cost. Rotella T for example has been shown to out perform just about everything short of Redline across multiple platforms and motors.

As for redline the perceived problem with it is 'high wear' on the first 2 OCI. However since ester based oils act as a natural detergent you end up with higher amounts of 'wear metals' in suspension in the oil. The high amount of wear metals is due to the oil cleaning. After the 2nd oil change most of those particles are gone and the oil is VERY resistant to shear and offers over all great protection.

 

Mobil 1 Syn from Walmart for as long as I can remember!!

 

Well that is your opinion I personally would never run either of the oils mentioned in my current autos but like you I'm entitled to my opinion also.

Cheers and happy motoring!

 

Well in my cross platform searching Delo 400 performed nearly as good as rotella t so i feel its more than good enough for my maxima which doesnt see the harsh conditions and possible road coursing that the VR-4 sees. Also like i've said before Redline tends to get an undeserved bad rap off of UOA done on the first OCI. If you look at most of the UOA of redline where they say its bad its on the first OCI. I was warned of this and i simply wont do an UOA till the 3rd OCI and will keep the OCI much shorter than normal for the first two OCI.

 

those of you running Mobil1 should take a look at this...

 

again different engine.... different metals, oils, etc... you'll never see my point...

you think the same oil in EVERY engine will perform the same = NO TRUE

M1 has GREAT results in the VQ35DE, VQ35DE, yes the VQ35DE....

I don't care whatever engine be it Subaroo, Fiart, GM, whatever...

Not the Subaru or Mitsu 3000GT, or the Ford P/U or the whatever the f you pick...

I have more than a dozen UOAs I can plaster all over the board for M1 and the VQ35DE and they are fine.

 

You know what, you dont get it. After some searching on BITOG and that My350z thread you posted here shows MANY results of Mobil 1 under performing IN THE VQ. People switch to Rotella T or Redline and their UOA results get better. While its not like their engine is going to grenade from using Mobil 1 but its clear, based off of your facts, that mobil 1 doenst protect as well as other options.

Your own 'supporting thread' proves you are wrong. Your repeated comments seem to show that you cannot read, so I'm not sure why I'm surprised that you dont understand that a crappy oil is a crappy oil and just cause its not stressed.

So I'll say this one more time I am running Redline 10W-40 in my 3000GT VR-4 which runs a 3.0L TWIN TURBO V6 that is known for a VERY HOT engine bay. The My350z forum UOA thread RECOMMENDS Redline for use in engines such as mine.

I run Chevron Delo 400 in my 2001 Maxima which runs a VQ30DE-K. Delo 400 has shown that it performs very similar to Rotella T across multiple engines. Rotella T is one of the oils being currently recommended by Resoulte in your UOA thread for the VQ35. you may not like the extrapolation but I bet that if i were to say i was running Rotella T, you might throw a hissy fit too.

OH and btw if you can never extrapolate results from another engine why in the hell are you telling me to read about UOA on a damned VQ35 for my VQ30 and my 6G72. Hypocrite much?

 

Rotella synthetic seems to be a VERY stout oil as it's also designed for diesels. It's additive package seems to be very stout.

Mobil 1 is a fine oil but it's certainly not the end all. It's change to a dino group III and it's ave TBN (additive package) means it's just a good middle of the road grp III sythentic.

 

LOL and why are you passing UOA's around for a non VQ35DE... that was my original argument... VQ35DE works GREAT with M1.... Nothing else I don't give a c*** about your G672, Boxer Subaru, etc.. I don't need to pass around UOA's look for yourself. Anyway have fun passing around FUD....

 

Agreed...

 

Contrary to what many 5.5Gen+ owners believe there are other engines in maximas besides the VQ35. The first UOA i posted was MY OWN FOR MY VQ30DE-K, but since you've proven you cant read I again am not sure why I am surprised you missed that.

You may not believe that how an oil behaves in many different types of engines doesnt constitute a trend but it does. I never said its going to perform identical, like you seem to think i'm saying, i said its an INDICATOR. This means that the only way yo know how it's going to react in your particular engine is to use it and have a UOA done. All that my350z thread will do is indicate how a particular oil might perform for you.

You really think the guys at my350z were the first to ever use rotella in a car? Where you think they got the idea to try it? Did you ever stop to consider that it had shown great performance in other engines? Wait that means that how an oil performed in another engine had something to do with you agreeing that rotella T is a great oil.

You might choose to bury your head in the sand when it comes to what other platforms are using for oil but had everyone had your mentality we'd all just use whatever the factory fill was.Funny you've been telling me that i was wrong all along now you agree when someone else says the same thing.

Hypocrite.

 

WOW you really are S L O W. Maybe you should read what he posted again.... I agree with both of his statements, however I don't agree with you stating that M1 is total crap and specifically in the VQ35DE which has always been my argument.

He didn't toss it under the bus (M1) like you did several times with your UOA's from other manufactures.

Your trying to get people to run scared about M1 with your negative postings attacking M1.

I never attacked Delo quite the contrary actually and I didn't say M1 was the end all just like the poster above.

 

I did read what you posted, i've always actually read your posts as opposed to what you do. Several times you implied was running Redline in a NA application and had a VQ35 in my 01.

All I said about M1 is that it's a poor performer for its price (though I will admit I over exaggerated in my first post)... you chose to read that as "ZOMG M1 is going to instantly grenade your engine." All i've really said all along is that across many different performance engines (yes including the VQ35) that HDEO consistantly outperforms M1. Will M1 protect well enough for 99% of the users on this forum? Of course. Is it worth all the extra money over HDEO? In my opinion and many others who stress their oil (ie road course people) not at all.

 

Dang it so here I was reading these posts thinking about how great Mobile1 is and how I was going to be buying a quality oil that I can leave in there for a loooong time without worrying.......... you know what? SCREW oil! Who needs it anyway!

I'll freaking run my engine with water.

Haha but from what I've read it seems like MOST of not all the oil the auto stores near me have either shred way too soon or are not up to par overall.

So from what I've read it seems like M1's quality is not worth the price, Royal Purple that is supposedly going to give you a few bumps in torque and horsepower is too expensive and shreds even faster, the European formula for Castrol is okay, and I don't remember anything about Amsoil (I think I spell that wrong)