Decided to take pictures as I changed the ATF in my 2005 Nissan Altima SE-R (Should be similar for 6th gen Maximas) since I couldn't really find any how to's prior to attempting my first ATF change using the Drain and Refill method. Usually people do 3 drain and refills with a short drive inbetween each making sure to engage in every gear. Some signs that an ATF Drain and refill is needed: harsh shifts, black ATF on dipstick, ATF smells burnt, metal shavings on drain plug, 30k miles.

First off, Nissan recommends Matic K automatic transmission fluid from Nissan. Cost me $10.82 a quart. Ranged up to $20.xx around my area. Anyone worried about attempting this themselves, with little or no mechanical experience, if you can change your own engine oil, you'll be fine. I actually think its easier then changing engine oil. I would rate it at a 2/10 with 10 being the hardest. Lets begin.

Tools I used: 10mm Hex, Funnel (the one I used has open/close option) and ATF Matic K for 5AT:


Drain plug is located right next to the front electric motor mount. Drivers side, facing the front of the car:


Jack up the car safely and locate the drain plug:


Take off the drain plug and let the fluid drain until it stops. Anything from 2-5 quarts can come out at one time. The rest stays in the torque converter (My old ATF wasn't that black, it was actually still pretty red, I had left over engine oil in the tub):

 

Put the drain plug back on and locate the dipstick. Take dipstick out and put funnel in the opening. This is where the ATF will be poured in:




Pour new Matic K ATF fluid into funnel (Looks almost like syrup for Italian Icees but smells nothing like it ):




Pour the same amount of ATF in as you took out. I poured the old ATF into empty quart size bottles to make sure its correct.

Now you're done with your first ATF Drain and Refill. Go for a short drive making sure to engage in every gear :shift:. I noticed smoother and crisp shifts. My brother said he couldn't even feel 1st-2nd which was the worst before.

It is common practice to drain and refill 3 times to get majority of the old fluid out. I only did it 2 times as my old fluid didn't seem that bad, and I didn't find any metal shavings on the drain plug.

Enjoy smooth shifts from now on...

I want to add that this is my FIRST time doing ATF drain and refill. The above may not be the best or fastest way, but it was the way that I did it. If there are any tips or advance that can be added to this, please feel free.

 

I am surprised to see no replies to your post. Great write-up and nice tutorial. Thank you very much!!

 

You could choose to go the Castrol Import MV ATF, it may be speced for MaticK.

Also it is $3.99/Q and it has held pretty well in my Maxima. I have over 187K on non-OEM ATF (starting at 60K, once power train warranty was up) and one thing I have found over the years is using OEM fluid which will not essentially protect the tranny but preventive maintainence, drain and fill every 20K miles instead of 30K.

Non-OEM ATFs are cheap for aggressive preventive maintainence.

 

definitely a great write up. However I wonder how similar this would be to changing the ATF fluid on a DE-K?

 

I bought my 6th gen with 77k and it shifted very smoothly. Had the transmission flushed and filled shortly thereafter at a local chain store. I now have 92k and the lower gears shift much less smoothly. I never thought about it, but will the chain stores grab the Nissan Matic fluid or just put in whatever they have?? Could that be what's causing mine to shift hard. It's not real bad and it's not all the time, but definitely more than when I first bought.

 

Hard to say what your service facility used, but using the incorrect fluid will definitely affect shift quality.

 

Great and simple explanation !!

 

great post and very helpful

 

I go one step further and replace all the fluid from the pan, tranny, and radiator - which requires 9 quarts according to the FSM for a 2002 maxima (and my experience).

After draining the pan, add 5 quarts even though about 4 and 1/4 comes out.

Remove the Driver side panel under the car. Disconnect the tranny line from the drivers side of the radiator (2002 Max). If you follow this line it will connect to the transmission above the line that goes passenger side of the radiator (The supply line to the radiator should be lower because it is being pumped, the top line dumps cool ATF back into the pan).

I put 5/16 ID clear vinyl tubing on the radiator nipple and run it into a jug (a 5 quart oil jug or I use a milk jug that I added 1 quart marks). The other hose hangs over a drain pan just in case some fluid comes out (which happened to my Xterra). Yes, you can disconnect from the tranny and use the tranny line - but clear tubing is easy to bend/handle, allows you to see the fluid (not necessary if you know capacity of system), and the radiator connection is easier to reach

Turn on the car for about 5 seconds. This will pump out about a quart (check your jug until you get the timing down). Repeat until you have added the 8th quart. The last time you turn on the car you may want to go 6 -7 seconds. This will remove the extra quart, plus another 1/2, and don't forget the extra 1/4 quart that came out of the pan in the beginning, so you should being 3/4 of a quart low. The 9th quart should put you back in the range with a little left over - if you measured accurately. I fill my my jug up to the 3 quart level before dumping in my oil pan so this is the mark that needs to be accurate for me.

Wait a few minutes for fluid to run down the fill tube, then turn on car, cycle through the gear, back into park - check fluid level while car is running (read owners manual for details). If you come up short - add more fluid - Important - it only takes about 1/4 of a quart to go from too low to too high. If it is not showing on the stick, add about 1/4 quart, then recheck. Once it is on the stick (but below the cold range), add 1/8th of a quart until you are in the middle of the range. If you are too high, disconnect hose and pump some out.

If you run a little short on ATF, you can use some from the jug it was clean. This is another reason why I pump into a jug, then dump into my oil pan. Or you can run to the store to get another bottle -especially if you need close to a quart. Or buy 10 quarts in the beginning, because you will be back at the store to dump the old fluid (and return the extra bottle).

This will give you a 100% exchange without wasting/mixing old and new fluid. The only thing it doesn't do is get the metal shavings off the magnets. Hopefully keeping the fluid in good shape, and average driving will mean I will never have to drop the pan to get the magnets. My 00 maxima has 200,000+ miles and hasn't had any tranny problems - never dropped the pan.

 

Should have did this instead of going to dealer.

 

Did this today! Nissan's MaticK fluid is very expensive!!

 

Great write up, thank you! In the 3rd picture, is it the bolt on the left or right? Thanks.

 

Bump...

 

It's the one on the left.

 

I have a 2005 Maxima, do I have to use the Nissan ATF or can I just use generic Dexron III?

 

Is there another particular tool to crack that drain bolt?

 

Nice tut, But forgot to tell you have to ride the car for 10 to 15 minutes. I did mine and took 3.5 quarts. And ride it like a week and the oil its still pink!!! so the other left in the tranny its clean!

 

To add to this, I normally drive for about a week after the first drain and refill and repeat.
After about 1 or 2 times, I think the car is good to go.

What matters is getting a 'good' read on the ATF level.

 

this stuff is expensive. but i bought 4 quarts and plan on doing a drain and fill. also while i'm at it i'm gonna install my tranny cooler

 

I think its time to do this surgery........hhhmmmm

 

I have about 186k on my 2000 maxima idk when the last time it was changed but every oil change they tell me its good, do yall think I should go ahead and change it sometimes not all it shifts longer than normal like when im getting on the interstate