so it would be 950 for feed and down pipe?

 

The price is for the headers and crossover plus the engine mounts. Not doing down pipe since fitment would become an issuse depending on your turbo size and housing.

Ferhan

 

does battery need to be relocated on this setup? is stainless an option?

 

Battery does need to be relocated. Yes but the cost of parts would increase.

I was able to get some more pictures of the new engine in the car with the headers on. I will have pictures of the the crossover and down pipe on by monday.








Ferhan

 

Here is the last one of the entire engine bay.



Ferhan

 

dam, i hate the battery in the trunk deal, becomes a mission at the track. out of curiosity, how much for the front modded motormount? i can find you a replacement stock front mount if you need it to cut it up.i dont have a welder so i cant really make it right now. let me know, thanks

 

I can check on the price for the mount even though I would prefer for sale this as a package. This way the guy doing the work is getting more business.

I should have pictures of the system completed this week. Waiting on a few more fuel line fittings to come it.

Ferhan

 

The welder can still make good money on the mounts only because it would allow more people to run front feed style piping.

 

I will asking in to selling the mounts once I have a chance to sit down and talk it over with him.

Here are pcitures of the system completed.







More in the next post.

Ferhan

 

These are of the intercooler, intake manifold and the engine mounts. You can see the difference between the ones I ordered compared to using the hockey puck. It is much bigger and stiff.






Should have it ready to fire up Friday or this weekend, then off to tuning.

Ferhan

 

I'm feelin' this setup - a truly unique build. Until I saw the latest pictures, I was going to ask how you intended to route in fresh air, as the compressor side is facing rearward, but I see you have that worked out now. That intake manifold will shine up nicely when complete.

Out of curiosity, I have a few questions;
Is there still clearance for a radiator and/or condenser?
Can you discuss any considerations made about having the turbine side significantly closer to the left exhaust bank as opposed to being centered between the left and right headers (for more synchronized exhaust flow through the turbine, like a reverse-Y might provide)?
Is the turbo's weight being supported only by the manifold and DP?
Though I realize this is probably the most ideal spot to get cooler air through the compressor, have you thought about water ingestion by having the cone so low?
Specs of the build, please

 

i have had the air intake there before, theres a plastic fender cover that works like a shield, i lived in FL and it rains alot, should be good unless its totally under water.

hows does that mount feel? a apposed to a solid mount? is filled with rubber inside or what? waiting on the mount deal.

 

Subscribing to this, so far i like the setup. Curious to know what some of your answers are in regards to digitalbow's questions...

 

To answer your questions.

There is room for the radiator and condensor. The only thing that we will modify is the fan shroud by the dump pipe. Itcomes very close or touches. Will be either cutt out a part of the shroud or make a new shroud. The fan is not affected.

The turbo was place there to allow for the cold air setup with minimal restrictions. The one bank is longer but the velocity of the air will be about the same at the merge. The merge a the turbo it also position in a way to enter the turbo at the same angle for both pipes. There should be no issues with the gases slowing the turbo down from defecting each other.

At the moment the urbo is only being supported by the piping but I may be adding a bracket off the frame rail for support.

On my previous car tha was supercharged, I used a 10" cone in the fender with no water being sucked in. On this car I have an 8" cone that will have a shield right in front of it. So no water will ever it the cone, it will deflect of the shield and hit the fender guard.

Hope that covers it.

Ferhan

 

^ I got it. Are you on ChicagoNissanClub

 

I am but I have not really posted this there yet.

Ferhan

 

I am one of 3 (now that kevlo joined the RMT club) that has a functional Rear mounted turbo setup. And our filters are exposed under the car right behind the muffler. I can speek from experience that i have been driving around for over 2 winters like this, and a little water doesnt hurt anything anyways. just dont start driving thru any rivers and u should be kewl lol...

The price is somewhat right, and im reallly digging this setup. Quite possible might make the move away from RMT for this.. MAYBE

Are you concerned at all with the hot pipe from the front bank being too close to that coolant line tho? That looks a lil iffy even with the exaust wrapped...

 

The exhaust in coated in high temp paint then wraped and finally painted over again. Should not have much of a heat issue.

The radiator hosed will be switched over to hard lines usings only rubber connectors at the engine and radiator.

Ferhan

 

You paint the piping...i get that, and then the wrap goes on, but you paint over that also? Im confused lol

I didnt think of using braided coolant lines, this makes more sense now how close does it actually get tho?

 

Its a bit overkill to keep the heat were it belongs. It helps with the look on the headers too.

I will be running steel or aluminium tubing like the supra guys run instead of rubber hoses. The coolant pipe going to the radiator in 1.5 to 2 inches from the front bank.

Ferhan

 

any word on the mount?

 

what about the upper rad hose?

 

For those interested in the front mount. Price would be $100 and I think he will need the orginal one.

Using hard pipe for the upper radiator hose.

Ferhan

 

can you confirm, would be priced right without needing mines, as shipping would be involved

 

Not sure what you are asking. Please rephrase your question. Thanks. I should be starting the car this week since I had to get some other things done last week.

Ferhan

 

So i guess mine isn't "functional" then..

Refer to maximasdownunder

only difference is i've moved my cone filter (which is filthy btw) to the other side of the car, its right behind the wheel so gets splashed with water all the time and i don't have any problems with water ingestion.

 

what size exactly is that intercooler? will u have modify the bumper a bit like cut into it?

 

The intercooler is a 24x12x3.5. From inlet to outlet is 34. The bumper is shaved to fit about it and it sits a bit lower then the bumper itself.

Ferhan

 

Are you heading to get some dyno time soon?

 

hows the project coming along? new pics?

 

What type on fuel fails are you running and how difficult was it the relocate the throttlebody to the opposite side of the engine. Also is that a modified VQ30DET manifold or a custom job. Almost forgot this setup will work on a 3.5 correct?

 

The dyno will not be done until the engine is broken in. Looking at mid December.

The setup is completed but there are some changes that I will be making after the engine is broken in. I will have pictures after that. Right now working on last of the stand alone wiring and getting running. Should be done with that tomorrow.

The rails are stock but they are modified. We used the stock lower intake manifold form the VQ30DET and made our own upper for it. The throttle body to the other side was not that hard either. If the physical size of the engines are the same then yes.

Ferhan

 

Will that manifold be offered with the kit along with instructions for relocating the throttlebody? I am very interested in this setup and will most likely purchase one of the kits when they are ready.

 

The problem with the manifold is getting a hold of a J-spec lower. If you can get your hands on one then it can be made. I have the flange for making the upper. It is easy to set the throttle to the other side. All you do is extend the two connecters on the tps with it.

Also, I am not running the EGR and the coolant lines to the throttle. I will have my Master Tech figure out a way to get the engine lights off to still pass emissions.

Ferhan

 

Definitely put me down for one of these kits. I live in Alabama so there are no emission inspections

 

You probably won't have any drivability issues by deleting the EGR and TB coolant lines, But you will need to hook the IACV back up to keep the car from stalling while its warming up. You could always re-plumb the EGR tube to your new intake to keep the CEL away if you have to.
I've been working on building some turbo and intake manifolds also. Routing the feed pipes DET style seemed impossible on my ABS equipped 4th gen. So I did a forward Y-pipe style. I'm also working on an open plenum style upper intake. I'm fortunate to have access to a CNC and aluminum welding equipment. I'm wondering how well your intake clears the hood where it crosses over the timing cover because I wanted to go that way, but I though it would be to close.
Anyway, this has made for a great thread. Congrats and keep the info and pictures coming.

 

Ooh! sweet deal man...i havent heard of anyone other than kevlo, streetz , and one other guy on here...blackbirdvq i think?

Well now i gota add you to the list haha...You guys need to come out of the woodwork!

 

Sorry guys but no really prigress right now. I am busy with school and have not reworked the IACV into the intake yet. School ends soon so should be fully running shortly.

Ferhan

 

so just run the car without it for now

 

I am also working on geting the auto transmission to run correctly with the stand alone. The transmission also needs to get a signal from the IAVC. This trans is starting to annoy me a bit. I have ordered a new custom radiator to go with this setup. Should be in before the end of the week.

Ferhan