Installed my Koni fronts=labor and tool intensive
#1
Install was pretty simple, but it does take a good bit of time and quite few tools. I had to use a breaker bar, torque wrench, socket wrench, full long and short metric sockets, spring compressors, heavy duty drill, 1/2 inch drill bit, Dermel with a cutting tool, vise, jack stands, good jack, and WD40. If you don't have these tools and a garage, I think you'll have a really hard time accomplishing this task.
Cutting the old housing and pulling out the old internals proved to be very easy with a Dremel and a cutting wheel. Make sure you match mark your strut to your steering knuckle so that your alignment doesn't get thrown off. My alignment turned out fine. Popping back in the strut housing takes some time because everything needs to be aligned.
After I installed the struts, I took a test drive and was amazed at how soft they were at first (adjusted to the softest setting). It felt completely stock. I then adjusted to 90% of max firmness and it was FIRM..almost jarring. At the track this will be great and on the street it is a little too tight. I backed out the setting to 70% and it feels perfect for me. It's pretty firm, but civilized just enough. What really made me happy was when I dipped into the throttle in 1st at 3500 rpms and my car pretty much took off and hooked up. I banged 2nd with just a quick chirp. I tried this a couple more times to make sure it was true. With my old struts, my car would just spin in 1st on a roll on, and then spin wildly into 2nd. I think the lack of the front end lifting and rocking reduced the weight transfer off the line and at a rool on in 1st. I'm very happy. Even better, is that all the clunkiness of the suspension and bouncy feel my car is gone. It was well worth the extra money and time to have a adjustable shocks that can hold up to lowering springs.
Dave
Cutting the old housing and pulling out the old internals proved to be very easy with a Dremel and a cutting wheel. Make sure you match mark your strut to your steering knuckle so that your alignment doesn't get thrown off. My alignment turned out fine. Popping back in the strut housing takes some time because everything needs to be aligned.
After I installed the struts, I took a test drive and was amazed at how soft they were at first (adjusted to the softest setting). It felt completely stock. I then adjusted to 90% of max firmness and it was FIRM..almost jarring. At the track this will be great and on the street it is a little too tight. I backed out the setting to 70% and it feels perfect for me. It's pretty firm, but civilized just enough. What really made me happy was when I dipped into the throttle in 1st at 3500 rpms and my car pretty much took off and hooked up. I banged 2nd with just a quick chirp. I tried this a couple more times to make sure it was true. With my old struts, my car would just spin in 1st on a roll on, and then spin wildly into 2nd. I think the lack of the front end lifting and rocking reduced the weight transfer off the line and at a rool on in 1st. I'm very happy. Even better, is that all the clunkiness of the suspension and bouncy feel my car is gone. It was well worth the extra money and time to have a adjustable shocks that can hold up to lowering springs.
Dave
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