Ooglie hyper ground system info.
08-09-2002, 03:51 PM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,362
Ooglie hyper ground system info.
If you haven't heard Kevin Wong installed the Hyper Ground System in his car and dynoed to show good gains - http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=140112 But the people who did the dynos are the same ones who are selling the system, a conflict of intrest in my book. I think I can do basically the same thing for a lot less money. If anyone has ideas on grounding points or wireing options please add them to this thread.
There was no dramatic difference in my car after I did this but it seemed the car was smoother and more responsive, it also felt like there may have been a small HP increase. My conectors were pretty corroded like Mishmoshes, it is possible any gains I felt are from bringing the ground back up to factory spec. Before my headlights would be noticably dimmer at idle and brighten when the engine was revved, now it is barley noticable. I did put my MAXIMA.ORG stickers on at the same time, so they may be responsible for some of the gains.
The stock Maxima ground system is one 4 gauge wire that is connected to the body and the engine on a bracket. The wire is has a connector clamped on halfway down for the body groung and ends in a ring terminal at the engine block.
I bought 3 wires with ring terminals on the end at Wal-Mart, they seem to be pretty good quality. They come in various lengths and are cheap - about $3-5 each. The wires with ring terminals on both ends are called 'switch to starter' on the package. I also bought a marine style brass battery teminal that has a bolt and wing nut to attatch ring terminals, $2.99 at auto zone - for two, Wal mart had something similer. I bought a longer bolt and a nut to replace the bolt and wing nut that came with the terminal, I wanted to beable to go pretty tight for a good connection. I also had some 8 gauge wire and connectors lying around from various audio projects.
I replaced the stock ground wire with two separate 4 gauge wires, A 24" and a 43" both were plenty long. You can get to the body ground easily after removing the lower part of the stock airbox. I cleaned all the areas where a connection was going to be made and used some dielectric grease on all my connections. I also ran a 4 gauge wire over to the bracket that is attaced to the alternator, there is a factory ground point here. I used a 58" wire for this and ran it up in front of the radiator this was the longest wire I saw at wall mart and it just barely reaches.
I also used the 8 gauge stereo wire I had for two additional grounds. In the front next to the battery there is a factory grounding point. It looks like the fuse box that is there grounds to this point.
I also used another length of 8 gauge wire to connect to the factory grounding point at the lower intake manifold (mine doesn't look like this :-( ) There are supposed to be two bolts there.
If anyone knows what the hyper ground system uses for grounding points or has any other suggestions please post them. The pics belong to Mishmosh I do not own a digital camera, if he wants me to remove them I will.
There was no dramatic difference in my car after I did this but it seemed the car was smoother and more responsive, it also felt like there may have been a small HP increase. My conectors were pretty corroded like Mishmoshes, it is possible any gains I felt are from bringing the ground back up to factory spec. Before my headlights would be noticably dimmer at idle and brighten when the engine was revved, now it is barley noticable. I did put my MAXIMA.ORG stickers on at the same time, so they may be responsible for some of the gains.
The stock Maxima ground system is one 4 gauge wire that is connected to the body and the engine on a bracket. The wire is has a connector clamped on halfway down for the body groung and ends in a ring terminal at the engine block.
I bought 3 wires with ring terminals on the end at Wal-Mart, they seem to be pretty good quality. They come in various lengths and are cheap - about $3-5 each. The wires with ring terminals on both ends are called 'switch to starter' on the package. I also bought a marine style brass battery teminal that has a bolt and wing nut to attatch ring terminals, $2.99 at auto zone - for two, Wal mart had something similer. I bought a longer bolt and a nut to replace the bolt and wing nut that came with the terminal, I wanted to beable to go pretty tight for a good connection. I also had some 8 gauge wire and connectors lying around from various audio projects.
I replaced the stock ground wire with two separate 4 gauge wires, A 24" and a 43" both were plenty long. You can get to the body ground easily after removing the lower part of the stock airbox. I cleaned all the areas where a connection was going to be made and used some dielectric grease on all my connections. I also ran a 4 gauge wire over to the bracket that is attaced to the alternator, there is a factory ground point here. I used a 58" wire for this and ran it up in front of the radiator this was the longest wire I saw at wall mart and it just barely reaches.
I also used the 8 gauge stereo wire I had for two additional grounds. In the front next to the battery there is a factory grounding point. It looks like the fuse box that is there grounds to this point.
I also used another length of 8 gauge wire to connect to the factory grounding point at the lower intake manifold (mine doesn't look like this :-( ) There are supposed to be two bolts there.
If anyone knows what the hyper ground system uses for grounding points or has any other suggestions please post them. The pics belong to Mishmosh I do not own a digital camera, if he wants me to remove them I will.
08-12-2002, 03:55 PM
#4
Re: Ooglie hyper ground system info.
Well, got around to taking pics of the grounding scheme I did a week ago or so... similar to what Anachronism did also. 4-guage pre-terminated wire in various lengths was had from Walmart. Battery terminal from Murray's Auto Parts. 8 guage wire and ring terminals from local car audio shop.
Pic:
1. engine blk bracket: replaced stock wire with two--one to battery ground, the other to chassis ground (2)
2. chassis ground: stock wire replaced from battery. Another to engine as mentioned above.
3. alternator bracket: added 4 guage wire to battery ground.
4. passenger side front harness ground to chassis: added 8guage wire to battery ground.
5. lower intake manifold: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
6. driver side front harness(?) ground to chassis: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
Pic:
1. engine blk bracket: replaced stock wire with two--one to battery ground, the other to chassis ground (2)
2. chassis ground: stock wire replaced from battery. Another to engine as mentioned above.
3. alternator bracket: added 4 guage wire to battery ground.
4. passenger side front harness ground to chassis: added 8guage wire to battery ground.
5. lower intake manifold: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
6. driver side front harness(?) ground to chassis: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
I'll be sure to update you guys (and girls) when everything is finished.
08-12-2002, 10:58 PM
#6
Well I also did my own version today , but since my battery is in the back, Its a little different. In my old stereo system I made use of two Monster Cable (1)4 to (4)8 guage power distribution blocks. In my new setup I have no need for them. I decided to use one to make my personal hyper-ground system. My Battery was connected by a 4 guage power wire and a 4 guage ground. I connected the 4 guage ground to my power distribution block. And ran four seperate 8 guage wires through my rear seat back. From there I used the best central ground possible (seat belt bolts) to ground out the wires.
Once everything was connected, I started the car. It was kind of hesitant at first, but I cut it off and started it again and it cranked right up. The first few minutes I smelled unburned fuel. I suspect I wasn't getting the full potential of my spark plugs. I turned on the lights, and now my HIDs warm up a lot faster! The interior guages are brighter and don't dim when I turn the music up. The music is also cleaner and more bass heavy. My idle is now at 575 rpm instead of 650, but is much smoother and quieter. The car doesn't vibrate at all like it used to. At idle you can't even hear my exhaust anymore! As for performance, I don't feel that much of a difference, maybe on the high end, but that is all. I suspect that the ECU has to readjust. My braking is improved...(we used electronic brake boosters) Also, my power steering now has that overassisted feel that everyone complains about.
Overall, I think this is an excellent and cheap mod for all of us to do. It doesn't hurt anything, and it really helps your car function better. It seems that all of my accessories are working to their full potential without stressing the car at all. I'm glad I did it.
Once everything was connected, I started the car. It was kind of hesitant at first, but I cut it off and started it again and it cranked right up. The first few minutes I smelled unburned fuel. I suspect I wasn't getting the full potential of my spark plugs. I turned on the lights, and now my HIDs warm up a lot faster! The interior guages are brighter and don't dim when I turn the music up. The music is also cleaner and more bass heavy. My idle is now at 575 rpm instead of 650, but is much smoother and quieter. The car doesn't vibrate at all like it used to. At idle you can't even hear my exhaust anymore! As for performance, I don't feel that much of a difference, maybe on the high end, but that is all. I suspect that the ECU has to readjust. My braking is improved...(we used electronic brake boosters) Also, my power steering now has that overassisted feel that everyone complains about.
Overall, I think this is an excellent and cheap mod for all of us to do. It doesn't hurt anything, and it really helps your car function better. It seems that all of my accessories are working to their full potential without stressing the car at all. I'm glad I did it.
08-13-2002, 10:02 AM
#7
Thanks for the info. I may have to try something like this...my lights have some minor dimming on little things such as tapping the brake pedal, and will get a tad brighter when the engine speed increases, etc.
I'll have to remember 'ooglie' for searching in the future. So all these locations run back to the - on the battery?
I'll have to remember 'ooglie' for searching in the future. So all these locations run back to the - on the battery?
08-13-2002, 10:57 AM
#8
Re: Re: Ooglie hyper ground system info.
why did you add ground wires for #4, 5 &6. are the harnesses for the headlights
thanks
thanks
Originally posted by Mishmosh
Well, got around to taking pics of the grounding scheme I did a week ago or so... similar to what Anachronism did also. 4-guage pre-terminated wire in various lengths was had from Walmart. Battery terminal from Murray's Auto Parts. 8 guage wire and ring terminals from local car audio shop.
Pic:
1. engine blk bracket: replaced stock wire with two--one to battery ground, the other to chassis ground (2)
2. chassis ground: stock wire replaced from battery. Another to engine as mentioned above.
3. alternator bracket: added 4 guage wire to battery ground.
4. passenger side front harness ground to chassis: added 8guage wire to battery ground.
5. lower intake manifold: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
6. driver side front harness(?) ground to chassis: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
Well, got around to taking pics of the grounding scheme I did a week ago or so... similar to what Anachronism did also. 4-guage pre-terminated wire in various lengths was had from Walmart. Battery terminal from Murray's Auto Parts. 8 guage wire and ring terminals from local car audio shop.
Pic:
1. engine blk bracket: replaced stock wire with two--one to battery ground, the other to chassis ground (2)
2. chassis ground: stock wire replaced from battery. Another to engine as mentioned above.
3. alternator bracket: added 4 guage wire to battery ground.
4. passenger side front harness ground to chassis: added 8guage wire to battery ground.
5. lower intake manifold: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
6. driver side front harness(?) ground to chassis: added 8 guage wire to battery ground.
08-13-2002, 01:54 PM
#9
Re: Re: Re: Ooglie hyper ground system info.
Originally posted by seven
why did you add ground wires for #4, 5 &6. are the harnesses for the headlights
thanks
why did you add ground wires for #4, 5 &6. are the harnesses for the headlights
thanks
#5, the intake manifold ground, looks to ground the injectors... at least it grounds the harness that the injectors come off of.
08-13-2002, 02:31 PM
#10
Re: Re: Re: Re: Ooglie hyper ground system info.
okay one more question: do the new ground wires go on top or bottom of the old ground wires. I would think the original wires need to contact the metal surface and then the new ground wires go on top of them.
I also noticed something, this can be a cosmetic mod too, get all red wires or color of choice and it looks almost like a hose kit
I also noticed something, this can be a cosmetic mod too, get all red wires or color of choice and it looks almost like a hose kit
Originally posted by Mishmosh
#4,6 are the harness headlights. Some people have had their harnesses melt repeatedly when using stock wattage bulbs (not even overwatt) and it was thought the ground was problematic. In fact, the factory ground points in these areas are still primed and painted surfaces! I think Nissan is relying on the threads of the grounding bolt to do the grounding to chassis. In any case, I took off the paint to bare metal by using a chisel and sandpaper. If you get brighter headlights from grounding these, great. If not, at least I know my HIDs have a good ground.
#5, the intake manifold ground, looks to ground the injectors... at least it grounds the harness that the injectors come off of.
#4,6 are the harness headlights. Some people have had their harnesses melt repeatedly when using stock wattage bulbs (not even overwatt) and it was thought the ground was problematic. In fact, the factory ground points in these areas are still primed and painted surfaces! I think Nissan is relying on the threads of the grounding bolt to do the grounding to chassis. In any case, I took off the paint to bare metal by using a chisel and sandpaper. If you get brighter headlights from grounding these, great. If not, at least I know my HIDs have a good ground.
#5, the intake manifold ground, looks to ground the injectors... at least it grounds the harness that the injectors come off of.
08-13-2002, 05:08 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,362
Originally posted by seven
okay one more question: do the new ground wires go on top or bottom of the old ground wires. I would think the original wires need to contact the metal surface and then the new ground wires go on top of them.
I also noticed something, this can be a cosmetic mod too, get all red wires or color of choice and it looks almost like a hose kit
okay one more question: do the new ground wires go on top or bottom of the old ground wires. I would think the original wires need to contact the metal surface and then the new ground wires go on top of them.
I also noticed something, this can be a cosmetic mod too, get all red wires or color of choice and it looks almost like a hose kit
Ihave the same Battery terminal Mishmosh does except mine is brass, I also replaced the wing nut with a regular nut so I could really crank it down. I may put ring terminals on the factory positive wires and use the same terminal on the positive side.
Or I may get a battery terminal something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1372355280 -- for the positive side, it accepts bare wire. If you used one like that on the negative side you could buy long cables and cut them in half then stick the cut end into the terminal.
08-14-2002, 08:22 AM
#13
Or I may get a battery terminal something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...item=1372355280 -- for the positive side, it accepts bare wire. If you used one like that on the negative side you could buy long cables and cut them in half then stick the cut end into the terminal.
08-14-2002, 08:09 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 129
www.sounddomain.com has the negative battery terminal that you are speaking of.
10-06-2002, 09:56 AM
#15
vicodin ... gift of life
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: norcal
Posts: 5,401
I did this mod this weekend. I think there are gains... at least the car accelerates smoother. I will get pics of it soon.... but basically i went to walmart and bought the the stuff... 6-gauge wires.... brass terminal. I spent probably about 20 bucks for this and I'm happy.
Just a thought... perhaps the ground wire doesn't really do much, performance-wise, but it attributes to resetting the ECU because the battery is disconnected... and maybe for people who haven't resetted their ECU after installing a mod it hasn't showed any gains? or maybe NOT. i dunno
I also heard that the ECU resets itself every thousand miles or something so that idea flew out the window.
anyways! good feasible mod =)
Just a thought... perhaps the ground wire doesn't really do much, performance-wise, but it attributes to resetting the ECU because the battery is disconnected... and maybe for people who haven't resetted their ECU after installing a mod it hasn't showed any gains? or maybe NOT. i dunno
I also heard that the ECU resets itself every thousand miles or something so that idea flew out the window.anyways! good feasible mod =)
11-25-2002, 01:09 AM
#16
I just did my own DYI grounding today using 8ga amp cable and 6ga battery cables and I also had a monster cable 4-1 distribution block to hook it all up to. I got all the places that Mishmosh had in the pic above except I ran out of cable to ground the headlight harnesses. I dont know for shure but I "think" acceleration is somewhat smoother from a stop (less lag?) and also I think that my stereo is louder. Ill do more testing tommrow
07-11-2003, 04:15 AM
#18
just wanted to bump back an old thread. im gonna do this probably this weekend..if someoen has like a picture of the engine bay an all its ground points highlighted, please post it.
07-21-2003, 10:10 AM
#19
Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 30
Well I tried it and it works!!! I only had time to do the battery grounds (1&2) and there is definitely noticeble power restored. Good throttle response. Then again It's probably because I have over 155k. Can't wait to add all the other grounds.
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