Old Caliper Fitting on new pads
#1
Old Caliper Fitting on new pads
I finally got all the bolts off and my new rotors and pads on. The caliper isnt fitting over my porterfield pads! How do I make more room in the caliper? Also where is the piston? Lastly when bleeding brakes how long does it take without a brake bleeder, just the pour and pump method?
BTW- the best way to get tough bolts off is to hit the end of the ratchet a few times with a hammer.
BTW- the best way to get tough bolts off is to hit the end of the ratchet a few times with a hammer.
#2
Re: Old Caliper Fitting on new pads
Originally posted by BBaker025
I finally got all the bolts off and my new rotors and pads on. The caliper isnt fitting over my porterfield pads! How do I make more room in the caliper? Also where is the piston? Lastly when bleeding brakes how long does it take without a brake bleeder, just the pour and pump method?
BTW- the best way to get tough bolts off is to hit the end of the ratchet a few times with a hammer.
I finally got all the bolts off and my new rotors and pads on. The caliper isnt fitting over my porterfield pads! How do I make more room in the caliper? Also where is the piston? Lastly when bleeding brakes how long does it take without a brake bleeder, just the pour and pump method?
BTW- the best way to get tough bolts off is to hit the end of the ratchet a few times with a hammer.
piston is basically the big metal ring/cup looking thing. has the rubber boot around it.
for the front you need a c-clamp or a tool to push the piston back in the caliper.
what the he11 is the pour and pump method?!!?!? oh god please take it to a shop.
BTW your way of to get bolts off is the best way to ruin your set of rachets.
#3
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Man, sounds like you should have read the manual before you did this job.
The piston is that round cup like thing in the front and in the rear it's that round solid thing with 4 notches on it. Both sealed by a flexable rubber boot.
The front pistons just push in. Use a C clamp.
The rear calipers need to be turned in. Use a needle nose plier and grab the notches on the piston, then twist it clockwise and the piston will go back in.
Bleeding - Start from the right rear, then left rear, right front, ending at left front. Have somebody help you by depressing (pumping) the brakes. The last pump, your friend should hold the pedal down while you close the bleed port.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!
The piston is that round cup like thing in the front and in the rear it's that round solid thing with 4 notches on it. Both sealed by a flexable rubber boot.
The front pistons just push in. Use a C clamp.
The rear calipers need to be turned in. Use a needle nose plier and grab the notches on the piston, then twist it clockwise and the piston will go back in.
Bleeding - Start from the right rear, then left rear, right front, ending at left front. Have somebody help you by depressing (pumping) the brakes. The last pump, your friend should hold the pedal down while you close the bleed port.
MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!
#4
-I thought that was the piston, but I keep turning it and nothing happens. I just thought i would make sure b4 i tried for like 1 hr and that ended up being the wrong thing.
-the pump and pour method, you pump the pedal and pour in new brake fluid.
-And ratchets cost 10 bux, midas wanted to charge me 150 for the install when i have the rotors and pads.
-the pump and pour method, you pump the pedal and pour in new brake fluid.
-And ratchets cost 10 bux, midas wanted to charge me 150 for the install when i have the rotors and pads.
#5
The piston is that round cup thingy in the front and in the rear it's that round solid thingy with 4 notches on it. Both sealed by a flexable rubber boot thingy.
get it?
I know you're trying to save money by DIY... fockin up may very well end up costing more. There are shops other than Midas that does brakepad installs.
get it?
I know you're trying to save money by DIY... fockin up may very well end up costing more. There are shops other than Midas that does brakepad installs.
#6
Originally posted by BBaker025
-I thought that was the piston, but I keep turning it and nothing happens. I just thought i would make sure b4 i tried for like 1 hr and that ended up being the wrong thing.
-the pump and pour method, you pump the pedal and pour in new brake fluid.
-And ratchets cost 10 bux, midas wanted to charge me 150 for the install when i have the rotors and pads.
-I thought that was the piston, but I keep turning it and nothing happens. I just thought i would make sure b4 i tried for like 1 hr and that ended up being the wrong thing.
-the pump and pour method, you pump the pedal and pour in new brake fluid.
-And ratchets cost 10 bux, midas wanted to charge me 150 for the install when i have the rotors and pads.
as long as u time the opening and closing correctly you're ok..2 person job.
10 bucks? what kind of rachet goes for 10 bucks? i guess the ones u can hit w/ a hammer and don't even have to worry about.
anyone w/ a decent rachet would NOT hit the end of it w/ a hammer. use the right tool for the right job.
#7
Originally posted by DanNY
10 bucks? what kind of rachet goes for 10 bucks? i guess the ones u can hit w/ a hammer and don't even have to worry about.
anyone w/ a decent rachet would NOT hit the end of it w/ a hammer. use the right tool for the right job.
10 bucks? what kind of rachet goes for 10 bucks? i guess the ones u can hit w/ a hammer and don't even have to worry about.
anyone w/ a decent rachet would NOT hit the end of it w/ a hammer. use the right tool for the right job.
Yeah, just use the hammer! That's always the right tool for any job!
#9
Originally posted by DanNY
i guess the ones u can hit w/ a hammer and don't even have to worry about.
anyone w/ a decent rachet would NOT hit the end of it w/ a hammer. use the right tool for the right job.
i guess the ones u can hit w/ a hammer and don't even have to worry about.
anyone w/ a decent rachet would NOT hit the end of it w/ a hammer. use the right tool for the right job.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 05:15 AM
trsandrew
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
17
04-08-2016 06:45 PM
trsandrew
Group Deals / Sponsors Forum
2
10-25-2015 02:47 PM
Pied
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
0
09-26-2015 03:29 PM