Should my car be towed on a flat bed, or the other, dragging?
#1
Should my car be towed on a flat bed, or the other, dragging?
I'm having starter problems and I couldnt get it to start, even by tapping on it while my girl was turning the key. Now I have to get it towed to my house for me to replace the starter myself or to a local mechanic to do it. Since I'm lowered with 18's and full bodykit, should I get a tow truck to drag it or on a flat bed to my house, or to the mechanic? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I did my springs/struts, full exhaust bolt-ons, etc. though I did have a little trouble with the underdrive pulley. Someone please reply asap, need to know by tomorrow morning. Thanks.
#2
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Re: Should my car be towed on a flat bed, or the other, dragging?
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
I'm having starter problems and I couldnt get it to start, even by tapping on it while my girl was turning the key. Now I have to get it towed to my house for me to replace the starter myself or to a local mechanic to do it. Since I'm lowered with 18's and full bodykit, should I get a tow truck to drag it or on a flat bed to my house, or to the mechanic? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I did my springs/struts, full exhaust bolt-ons, etc. though I did have a little trouble with the underdrive pulley. Someone please reply asap, need to know by tomorrow morning. Thanks.
I'm having starter problems and I couldnt get it to start, even by tapping on it while my girl was turning the key. Now I have to get it towed to my house for me to replace the starter myself or to a local mechanic to do it. Since I'm lowered with 18's and full bodykit, should I get a tow truck to drag it or on a flat bed to my house, or to the mechanic? I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I did my springs/struts, full exhaust bolt-ons, etc. though I did have a little trouble with the underdrive pulley. Someone please reply asap, need to know by tomorrow morning. Thanks.
I'd go for the flat bed.
All my opinions.
Do what makes you feel comfortable!
#3
Re: Re: Should my car be towed on a flat bed, or the other, dragging?
Originally posted by Maxima06071
I wouldn't trust them to drag it, but that's just me.
I'd go for the flat bed.
All my opinions.
Do what makes you feel comfortable!
I wouldn't trust them to drag it, but that's just me.
I'd go for the flat bed.
All my opinions.
Do what makes you feel comfortable!
#5
replacing the starter is easy as cake. if you can do springs/struts then you can do that for sure. when i replaced mine all i had to do was take 2 bolts out. here are directions. my mechanic wanted to charge me like $150 for labor and all that was saved for not even 30 minutes of work. http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/starter.html
Trevor
p.s. your white neons look hot!
Trevor
p.s. your white neons look hot!
#6
Originally posted by carnal_c30
dont let them tow it... it will tear up your car!!!
dont let them tow it... it will tear up your car!!!
#7
Originally posted by Soon2BMaxed
replacing the starter is easy as cake. if you can do springs/struts then you can do that for sure. when i replaced mine all i had to do was take 2 bolts out. here are directions. my mechanic wanted to charge me like $150 for labor and all that was saved for not even 30 minutes of work. http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/starter.html
Trevor
p.s. your white neons look hot!
replacing the starter is easy as cake. if you can do springs/struts then you can do that for sure. when i replaced mine all i had to do was take 2 bolts out. here are directions. my mechanic wanted to charge me like $150 for labor and all that was saved for not even 30 minutes of work. http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/starter.html
Trevor
p.s. your white neons look hot!
#8
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Hmm, should I go and buy a starter tomorrow (Sunday) from somewhere and just try to install without having to get it towed then? I have the same feeling that they might damage my car no matter what kind of tow truck.
Hmm, should I go and buy a starter tomorrow (Sunday) from somewhere and just try to install without having to get it towed then? I have the same feeling that they might damage my car no matter what kind of tow truck.
towing the car always presents problems and it costs a grip... if they damage the car during towing I think your insurance company will make them pay but that''d be an extra hassle
#9
I would never tow it other than a flatbed. Ive seen a car that was litterally dragged by a tow truck. The bumper was about to come apart and ever once in a while, there would be sparks from the muffler or something under there grinding on the road
#10
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Wow, I didn't know it was that simple, that's really nothing then. Thanks for the link. Do you happen to know what size sockets I would need, if not, thats okay, I'll be bringing my whole set anyway when I try to replace it. I guess its off to getting a new one. I know there are shops closed and some that are open on Sundays, where could I possilby get a new starter and relatively cheap? Thanks for the compliment on the neons.
Wow, I didn't know it was that simple, that's really nothing then. Thanks for the link. Do you happen to know what size sockets I would need, if not, thats okay, I'll be bringing my whole set anyway when I try to replace it. I guess its off to getting a new one. I know there are shops closed and some that are open on Sundays, where could I possilby get a new starter and relatively cheap? Thanks for the compliment on the neons.
#11
Originally posted by NightRider
Hey Ben, I can get you a starter from NAPA with my discount. I just got one for Bruce. PM me and I'll get you the Information.
Hey Ben, I can get you a starter from NAPA with my discount. I just got one for Bruce. PM me and I'll get you the Information.
#12
Ben,
You'll need a 10mm wrench for the intake, a 12mm one to get the power lead off the solenoid, a 14mm one for one bolt on the starter, and either a 17 or 19mm one for the other bolt. In 1/2 and hour you'll be done.
You'll need a 10mm wrench for the intake, a 12mm one to get the power lead off the solenoid, a 14mm one for one bolt on the starter, and either a 17 or 19mm one for the other bolt. In 1/2 and hour you'll be done.
#13
Originally posted by iwannabmw
Ben,
You'll need a 10mm wrench for the intake, a 12mm one to get the power lead off the solenoid, a 14mm one for one bolt on the starter, and either a 17 or 19mm one for the other bolt. In 1/2 and hour you'll be done.
Ben,
You'll need a 10mm wrench for the intake, a 12mm one to get the power lead off the solenoid, a 14mm one for one bolt on the starter, and either a 17 or 19mm one for the other bolt. In 1/2 and hour you'll be done.
#14
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Hey thanks. I'm planning on getting a starter today, is there one I should stay away from or look for? Or are they all the same?
Hey thanks. I'm planning on getting a starter today, is there one I should stay away from or look for? Or are they all the same?
#15
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Hey thanks. I'm planning on getting a starter today, is there one I should stay away from or look for? Or are they all the same?
Hey thanks. I'm planning on getting a starter today, is there one I should stay away from or look for? Or are they all the same?
#16
Thanks. Okay, I just got back from a local Autozone store and they're asking for $139.99 for a Duralast-Import Starter w/ $45.00 core charge and a lifetime warranty. Sounds pretty cheap compared to the Beck/Arnley Starter from NAPA for $243.97 w/ $90.00 core charge. I'm not sure of the warranty for that one but I thought that for paying much more it might be a better one, but I'm guessing with the lifetime warranty on the other one, I should be okay? I also checked up on my car and it seems like everything is okay, just need to get a 17mm deep socket for the starter removal. Looks kind of tight spaced and easier said than done.
#17
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
Thanks. Okay, I just got back from a local Autozone store and they're asking for $139.99 for a Duralast-Import Starter w/ $45.00 core charge and a lifetime warranty. Sounds pretty cheap compared to the Beck/Arnley Starter from NAPA for $243.97 w/ $90.00 core charge. I'm not sure of the warranty for that one but I thought that for paying much more it might be a better one, but I'm guessing with the lifetime warranty on the other one, I should be okay? I also checked up on my car and it seems like everything is okay, just need to get a 17mm deep socket for the starter removal. Looks kind of tight spaced and easier said than done.
Thanks. Okay, I just got back from a local Autozone store and they're asking for $139.99 for a Duralast-Import Starter w/ $45.00 core charge and a lifetime warranty. Sounds pretty cheap compared to the Beck/Arnley Starter from NAPA for $243.97 w/ $90.00 core charge. I'm not sure of the warranty for that one but I thought that for paying much more it might be a better one, but I'm guessing with the lifetime warranty on the other one, I should be okay? I also checked up on my car and it seems like everything is okay, just need to get a 17mm deep socket for the starter removal. Looks kind of tight spaced and easier said than done.
#18
Originally posted by iwannabmw
Sve your money and go with the Autozone one. Worst case is it dies and you spend another 1/2 hour replacing it.
Sve your money and go with the Autozone one. Worst case is it dies and you spend another 1/2 hour replacing it.
#19
Draging the car would be your safest bet. A flat bed has to steep of an incline for a lowered max with a kit. I remember my I30 scraping on the way down, it was lowered 2 inches but had no bodykit.
The starter is a extremly easy part to replace. Just remove your MAFS and intake, then there are just a few bolts on the starter that need to be removed.
The starter is a extremly easy part to replace. Just remove your MAFS and intake, then there are just a few bolts on the starter that need to be removed.
#20
I wanna thank all of you guys for the support. I went ahead and bought the cheap one from Autozone that came with a lifetime warranty. I thought it was $139.99, but it was actually that plus the $45, (sorry, I'm slow) and then the $45 was returned when I gave them my old one. The hardest part about the whole removal was the 17mm bolt farthest from the front of the car, I first used a torque wrench and I was able to hear a popping sound figuring it slightly turned, but I didn't have any more room to remove the wrench and put it back on to try again. So, I went ahead and went back to the store and got a breaker bar with a swivel joint and I was able to get it even looser and remove it by hand. After that, everything was a piece of cake, though I can't say it was a half hour of work, more like an hour due to getting the breaker bar and also having to remove the front strut tower bar to get room to torque the bolts. I've been on the org for the past 12 hours with only 4 hours of sleep and now I have to go to work 3 hours late, but if it wasn't for you guys, my car would probably be dragging to my mechanic right now. Thanks fellas.
-Ben
-Ben
#21
Originally posted by BenBlanco218
I wanna thank all of you guys for the support. I went ahead and bought the cheap one from Autozone that came with a lifetime warranty. I thought it was $139.99, but it was actually that plus the $45, (sorry, I'm slow) and then the $45 was returned when I gave them my old one. The hardest part about the whole removal was the 17mm bolt farthest from the front of the car, I first used a torque wrench and I was able to hear a popping sound figuring it slightly turned, but I didn't have any more room to remove the wrench and put it back on to try again. So, I went ahead and went back to the store and got a breaker bar with a swivel joint and I was able to get it even looser and remove it by hand. After that, everything was a piece of cake, though I can't say it was a half hour of work, more like an hour due to getting the breaker bar and also having to remove the front strut tower bar to get room to torque the bolts. I've been on the org for the past 12 hours with only 4 hours of sleep and now I have to go to work 3 hours late, but if it wasn't for you guys, my car would probably be dragging to my mechanic right now. Thanks fellas.
-Ben
I wanna thank all of you guys for the support. I went ahead and bought the cheap one from Autozone that came with a lifetime warranty. I thought it was $139.99, but it was actually that plus the $45, (sorry, I'm slow) and then the $45 was returned when I gave them my old one. The hardest part about the whole removal was the 17mm bolt farthest from the front of the car, I first used a torque wrench and I was able to hear a popping sound figuring it slightly turned, but I didn't have any more room to remove the wrench and put it back on to try again. So, I went ahead and went back to the store and got a breaker bar with a swivel joint and I was able to get it even looser and remove it by hand. After that, everything was a piece of cake, though I can't say it was a half hour of work, more like an hour due to getting the breaker bar and also having to remove the front strut tower bar to get room to torque the bolts. I've been on the org for the past 12 hours with only 4 hours of sleep and now I have to go to work 3 hours late, but if it wasn't for you guys, my car would probably be dragging to my mechanic right now. Thanks fellas.
-Ben
Trevor
#23
Glad it went well ben!
On a side note - what's the consensus for towing the car? My car is lowered and i'm getting a fiberglass front bumper put on next week. I'm sure at some point the car will need to be towed. Everytime I've gotten it flatbedded (maybe twice) the incline was very steep like emax said and the stillen front lip took a beating. Of course it popped right back out and I didn't care because the paint is ****ed up on it but a fiberglass bumper would shatter with the same treatment. Is dragging the way to go?
On a side note - what's the consensus for towing the car? My car is lowered and i'm getting a fiberglass front bumper put on next week. I'm sure at some point the car will need to be towed. Everytime I've gotten it flatbedded (maybe twice) the incline was very steep like emax said and the stillen front lip took a beating. Of course it popped right back out and I didn't care because the paint is ****ed up on it but a fiberglass bumper would shatter with the same treatment. Is dragging the way to go?
#24
A lot of my friends use to tow cars around for AAA.
I had to ahve them tow my car a few times. I personally am not a big fan of Wreckers.
I would request for a Flatbed and let them know that you have a lowered car and ramps will be needed. They will usually bring a set of wooden ramps so the incline isn't as steep.
I had to ahve them tow my car a few times. I personally am not a big fan of Wreckers.
I would request for a Flatbed and let them know that you have a lowered car and ramps will be needed. They will usually bring a set of wooden ramps so the incline isn't as steep.
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