Bags

iTrader: (3)

Ok so my VI is working , sort of , thanks mardigras, jay25, speedtrip, mr cranman, iansw, dave b, and others.

BUT when it turns on, the actuator comes down, but will not go back up when below 4800 rpms.. even at idle it will not come back up. It is not because of the vaccum, I can freely move it back up.

So my question is did I hook something up wrong.

I have the vaccum line hooked up to the check valve of the NAPA cannister, then the line out of the cannister to the actuated port of the MAP/baro switch, the line the the VI actuator arm connected to the always open port of the map switch which opens to the cannister at 4800 rpms. so there is a way for the air to be released

HELP

It happens in neutral and I drove down to get gas.. about 1/2 a mile.. and it was still down..only passed 4800 rpm once.

I am about to drill a small hole and put a darn return spring on.. BUT I am sure that will cause to much work for the vaccum.

Again ANY help would be great

thanks

bags

darksands

Im getting worried that my VIM will have lots of problems. Im now leaning towards having a professional install it. Good luck with your problem my friend. Remember, you guys with the VIM problems are the pioneers and your mission to solve the problems will help lots of other like me in the future. Thanks.

Peter

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Don't let my problems sway you. I enjoy working on my car. SO this is fun and frustrating to me. But I have learned more about my motor in the past week than I have in a year.

BTW I thank you for the compliment, but I did not pioneer this, mardigras was the 1st that I know of with speedtrip and ians and mr cranman behind him.

I am about the 10th-15th person to do it.

With that being said.. When you get yours, AIM or email me at bags533@aol.com with any question

This board has lots of info and so does xhypex website. And the problems I had I will make sure you do not make.

Just get everything in order before you start. 2 of my 5 problems were due to lack of properly preparing.

Good luck

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

The closed or "off" position should be dictated by lack of vacuum AND a properly functioning vacuum actuator lever (that brass-colored bell shaped thing). It's supposed to have a spring that exerts pressure on the valve rod assembly to the closed position when no vacuum is applied. If I'm ready you correctly, it's not doing that? When the car is not even on, can you open the valves with almost no effort or does it require a good tug?

speedtrip

Are you saying that the actuator is pulling the butterfly valves open before the rpm set point and holds the valves open all the time?

Or are you saying the actuator pulls the butterfly valves open the first time you hit the 4800 rpm set point and then stays open?

Does the actuator arm close the butterfly valves as soon as you turn you maxima off?

When the butterfly valves stay open have you tried disconnecting the switched ground from the relay?

Bags

iTrader: (3)

No, the actuator is pulling the buterfly valves down at the set rpm

Yes, exactly



No, just tried it



No I have not..the reason being is I think the relay is not holding the map/baroswitch open.. when I manually push the gold arm back up the map baro switch lets it move up.. I feel the air in the vent port being sucked back in. Does that make sense to you? I read it twice and makes sense to me.. but I might be in left field

man I am gonna owe you big time after this

Bags

iTrader: (3)

sorry missed your response..

when you say closed or off.. what exactly are you referring to ? 6 butterfly valves and actuator arm?

What spring are you referring to ?

I just went and checked.. it's harder to pull the arm down, opening the butterfly valves, and easier to push up, closing the valves... not really a tug but some force is required

thank you


edit.. maybe this will help..

when the car is off and i manually pull the rod down opening the valves it does NOT return to the up postion closing the valves

does this help yall help me?

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Sounds to me like your vacuum actuator lever is busted. Supposedly, the spring is on the inside. When NOTHING (ie. no vacuum lines) is attached to it, it pushes the valves (via rod) closed. If you manually open the valves by pulling on the lever and then let go, it should forcefully snap back to the closed position because of the spring. There is also a remote possibility that you connected the lever to the butterfly rod assembly incorrectly but chances are, if the lever does not push, it is faulty.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Sounds to me like your vacuum actuator lever is busted. Supposedly, the spring is on the inside. When NOTHING (ie. no vacuum lines) is attached to it, it pushes the valves (via rod) closed. If you manually open the valves by pulling on the lever and then let go, it should forcefully snap back to the closed position because of the spring. [/B][/QUOTE]


SHOOT.. man looks like a drilling I will go..thank you for your help.. wonder if I can take that thing aprt and fix the spring..hmm

looks seald to me..how sealed and by what I do not know..but I can break anything..man i thought I would be done by now..oh well

thanks mishmosh

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Don't drill it! You may ruin the suction/lever part. Of course if it doesn't work right anyways, then I guess you have nothing to lose. Can you post a pic of how the arm connects to your butterfly rod just to rule that out?

If it definitely is busted, you can try to take it apart to fix the spring portion but I also may be in a position to help you. as you may know, I have a 35U variable intake that RoadBeast sent me (the rat bastrd). ...anyways, the actuator on it has a dent but apparently works. PM me your address and I can send it out to you if yours is busted. Maybe Mr. Cranman can have a replacement sent out with the next order because you should definitely have a new working one.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

how about this video clip.. this is with the engine off.. no sound BTW

www.bags533.com/VI1.wmv

speedtrip

Remove the hose between the actuator and map/baro switch. Pull back the actuator arm to open the butterfly valves and release it. If the actuator arm snaps shut then I would say the map/baro switch is the cause. If the actuator arm continues to stay open like in your movie then I would say the actuator is broken.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

The actuator stays open

Bags

iTrader: (3)

EDIT Ok


So I am taking my actuator off the car.. guess what? the return spring WORKS!!!!

Apparently there is more friction INSIDE the intake than the spring can handle

I am guessing that the valve rod is slighty bent.. thus making it hard to return

I WILL SOLVE THIS and I WILL HAVE A WORKING VI..OH YES IT WILL BE MINE

<insert physco laugh here>

thank you to Mishmosh,speedtrip

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

I've seen the bell-shaped part on a VQ3.5 and '99s have one on the lower intake manifold as part of some "swirl" control system. Problem is, the bracket and arm length probably differ.

Like I said before dude, I have a used one that is doing nothing for me... just give me the word and it's yours.

Edit: if you want to perform surgery on yours, it looks as if the actuator is formed by two halves joined at the lip that goes around it. You might be able to take a sharp, small instrument and peel back the edge to separate the housing.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Hey! That's good... i think... Just make sure you lube up the contact points well. The rod should be able to turn with almost no effort.

Mr Cranman

iTrader: (1)

Hey sorry about not responding haven't looked through the post yet but it seems that your Dawes device or your Map/baro switch isn't working properly. Have you tried...just to make sure that it is working properly to undo your Dawes device from the RPM switch and just turn on the car and just ground it manually to see if it opens the actuator...and then let go of the ground...and see if it closes.

Mr Cranman

iTrader: (1)

Hey sorry about not responding haven't looked through the post yet but it seems that your Dawes device or your Map/baro switch isn't working properly. Have you tried...just to make sure that it is working properly to undo your Dawes device from the RPM switch and just turn on the car and just ground it manually to see if it opens the actuator...and then let go of the ground...and see if it closes. If it doesn't close then you know it is the Dawes Device or the Map/Baro switch if it does close then the RPM switch isn't releasing the Ground, and you need a new RPM switch.

Just my thought,
John

Ants97SE

Here's a way to see if it's the actuator. Try sucking on the hose that connects to the MEVI. It should open with suction and when you release it, it should close. If that works, its a problem with something else. If it doesn't then the rod could be bent or your actuator could be broken.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Your correct!!!

Apparently I bent the rod slightly when I put it in. Took it out and found a flat surface and using a rubber mallet got it flat again.

IT WORKS

Mrcranman- thank you.. I understand why you did not.. It's really NOT a problem.. BTW ALL of the parts I got work, so I misspoke earlier.

Thank you everyone.. BUT it was worth it.. ran the car a little last night.. OH BOY

speedtrip

Mr Cranman

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I read through the post after I had commented...I realized that you had figured it out that it was a bent rod. I'm really glad that you got it up and running, and I'm sorry about the troubles you had . Have fun with the mod

-John

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Hey again all the troubles I had were due to ME causing them.

Thanks man..it will be a fun week or 2 playing with the new toy.

BTW if anybody asks you suggest /8 inch hose.. I only was able to find it as a fuel line..but it seems to work better with less leaks. HARD to get on but once it's on..it stays on.