Detonation on 100 shot nitrous :advice (long)
09-24-2002, 10:11 PM
#41
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
How many miles were on your motor when it blew?
How many miles were on your motor when it blew?
09-25-2002, 05:01 AM
#42
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
96,000....I'm suspecting it was injector related....POSSIBLY...and this is just a possibility...it had to do with un-even nitrous distribution as the NOS dry kit was not originally designed to run a 100-shot.....
96,000....I'm suspecting it was injector related....POSSIBLY...and this is just a possibility...it had to do with un-even nitrous distribution as the NOS dry kit was not originally designed to run a 100-shot.....
09-25-2002, 06:49 AM
#43
Originally posted by BriGuyMax
96,000....I'm suspecting it was injector related....POSSIBLY...and this is just a possibility...it had to do with un-even nitrous distribution as the NOS dry kit was not originally designed to run a 100-shot.....
96,000....I'm suspecting it was injector related....POSSIBLY...and this is just a possibility...it had to do with un-even nitrous distribution as the NOS dry kit was not originally designed to run a 100-shot.....
I ran a 100 shot for along time and never had a problem. Yes the kit for a Maxima is sold by NOS as a 60hp set up. before I installed the kit I talked to their tech department about it, they indicated that your fuel injectors must be in perfect working order. I told them my car had only a few thousand miles on it and they said it should be fine but that I should consider getting the fuel injectors cleaned every so often. Of course I never had them cleaned. When I started to progress up from the 60 shot to the 100 I was worried about running up the fuel pressure so high, I had a conversation with Kyle at SGP Racing (300ZTT shop) and he told me that ~90psi was the danger zone for the type of injectors in the 4th gen Max. So I headed his word and never exceded 90psi. I guess issue with the dry kits is injector failure, on lower milage motors its dosent seem to be an issue, on high milage motors it does. I guess the moral of the story is if you have high milage, IMHO over 75k, and you want to crank up some dry nitrous get a wet kit or have your injectors replaced and do a dry kit.
Other things to allways be sure of is BOTTLE PRESSURE!!! On a 110 degree day bottle pressure is sure to be over 1200psi, this will cause catastrophic leanness if you dont compensate with more fuel, dry or wet. On hot days I take a wet rag and lay it over the bottle with my trunk open when i am not racing, this keps the temps under control. And allways check your plugs, tiney black and silver specs on the white ceramic insulator is never a good sign.
09-25-2002, 07:11 AM
#44
Originally posted by SR20DEN
The NOS dry kits are designed to handle upto a 175 (crank) shot.
The NOS dry kits are designed to handle upto a 175 (crank) shot.
09-25-2002, 09:23 AM
#45
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
What happend to you SUCKS. I'm not trying to start ****.
I ran a 100 shot for along time and never had a problem. Yes the kit for a Maxima is sold by NOS as a 60hp set up. before I installed the kit I talked to their tech department about it, they indicated that your fuel injectors must be in perfect working order. I told them my car had only a few thousand miles on it and they said it should be fine but that I should consider getting the fuel injectors cleaned every so often. Of course I never had them cleaned. When I started to progress up from the 60 shot to the 100 I was worried about running up the fuel pressure so high, I had a conversation with Kyle at SGP Racing (300ZTT shop) and he told me that ~90psi was the danger zone for the type of injectors in the 4th gen Max. So I headed his word and never exceded 90psi. I guess issue with the dry kits is injector failure, on lower milage motors its dosent seem to be an issue, on high milage motors it does. I guess the moral of the story is if you have high milage, IMHO over 75k, and you want to crank up some dry nitrous get a wet kit or have your injectors replaced and do a dry kit.
Other things to allways be sure of is BOTTLE PRESSURE!!! On a 110 degree day bottle pressure is sure to be over 1200psi, this will cause catastrophic leanness if you dont compensate with more fuel, dry or wet. On hot days I take a wet rag and lay it over the bottle with my trunk open when i am not racing, this keps the temps under control. And allways check your plugs, tiney black and silver specs on the white ceramic insulator is never a good sign.
What happend to you SUCKS. I'm not trying to start ****.
I ran a 100 shot for along time and never had a problem. Yes the kit for a Maxima is sold by NOS as a 60hp set up. before I installed the kit I talked to their tech department about it, they indicated that your fuel injectors must be in perfect working order. I told them my car had only a few thousand miles on it and they said it should be fine but that I should consider getting the fuel injectors cleaned every so often. Of course I never had them cleaned. When I started to progress up from the 60 shot to the 100 I was worried about running up the fuel pressure so high, I had a conversation with Kyle at SGP Racing (300ZTT shop) and he told me that ~90psi was the danger zone for the type of injectors in the 4th gen Max. So I headed his word and never exceded 90psi. I guess issue with the dry kits is injector failure, on lower milage motors its dosent seem to be an issue, on high milage motors it does. I guess the moral of the story is if you have high milage, IMHO over 75k, and you want to crank up some dry nitrous get a wet kit or have your injectors replaced and do a dry kit.
Other things to allways be sure of is BOTTLE PRESSURE!!! On a 110 degree day bottle pressure is sure to be over 1200psi, this will cause catastrophic leanness if you dont compensate with more fuel, dry or wet. On hot days I take a wet rag and lay it over the bottle with my trunk open when i am not racing, this keps the temps under control. And allways check your plugs, tiney black and silver specs on the white ceramic insulator is never a good sign.
09-25-2002, 11:45 AM
#47
Moderator running more PSI than all the boosted Maximas... combined
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,345
It's so true about the bottle pressure. 15 mins with my bottle warmer on bypassing the temp control thingy. My bottle pressure would reach 1200psi.
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Other things to allways be sure of is BOTTLE PRESSURE!!! On a 110 degree day bottle pressure is sure to be over 1200psi, this will cause catastrophic leanness if you dont compensate with more fuel, dry or wet. On hot days I take a wet rag and lay it over the bottle with my trunk open when i am not racing, this keps the temps under control. And allways check your plugs, tiney black and silver specs on the white ceramic insulator is never a good sign.
Other things to allways be sure of is BOTTLE PRESSURE!!! On a 110 degree day bottle pressure is sure to be over 1200psi, this will cause catastrophic leanness if you dont compensate with more fuel, dry or wet. On hot days I take a wet rag and lay it over the bottle with my trunk open when i am not racing, this keps the temps under control. And allways check your plugs, tiney black and silver specs on the white ceramic insulator is never a good sign.
09-25-2002, 12:15 PM
#49
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
I guess issue with the dry kits is injector failure, on lower milage motors its dosent seem to be an issue, on high milage motors it does. I guess the moral of the story is if you have high milage, IMHO over 75k, and you want to crank up some dry nitrous get a wet kit or have your injectors replaced and do a dry kit.
I guess issue with the dry kits is injector failure, on lower milage motors its dosent seem to be an issue, on high milage motors it does. I guess the moral of the story is if you have high milage, IMHO over 75k, and you want to crank up some dry nitrous get a wet kit or have your injectors replaced and do a dry kit.
09-26-2002, 12:31 AM
#51
ok so just did the compression test. these are the results.
as before mentioned this is how i counted my cylinders.
6 5 4
1 2 3
here are the numbers
180 170 170
160 160 170
i had bad plugs in cylinders 1,2,3,4
cylinders 6,5 were fine.
any one have any suggestions??
oh and i have ecu code im gonna check tomorrow just wondering if anyone ever had a ecu code after a compression check??????
as before mentioned this is how i counted my cylinders.
6 5 4
1 2 3
here are the numbers
180 170 170
160 160 170
i had bad plugs in cylinders 1,2,3,4
cylinders 6,5 were fine.
any one have any suggestions??
oh and i have ecu code im gonna check tomorrow just wondering if anyone ever had a ecu code after a compression check??????
09-26-2002, 05:12 AM
#52
Originally posted by jdmmax
ok so just did the compression test. these are the results.
as before mentioned this is how i counted my cylinders.
6 5 4
1 2 3
here are the numbers
180 170 170
160 160 170
i had bad plugs in cylinders 1,2,3,4
cylinders 6,5 were fine.
any one have any suggestions??
oh and i have ecu code im gonna check tomorrow just wondering if anyone ever had a ecu code after a compression check??????
ok so just did the compression test. these are the results.
as before mentioned this is how i counted my cylinders.
6 5 4
1 2 3
here are the numbers
180 170 170
160 160 170
i had bad plugs in cylinders 1,2,3,4
cylinders 6,5 were fine.
any one have any suggestions??
oh and i have ecu code im gonna check tomorrow just wondering if anyone ever had a ecu code after a compression check??????
1 3 5
2 4 6
And that would make it 2,4,6,5
2 and 4 are below spec but will be fine. Just put in new plugs and be on your way.
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