Poorman's Hyperground review
10-28-2002, 02:17 PM
#1
Poorman's Hyperground review
after reading many posts about the hyperground system I decided to give it a try. I just couldn't justify spending $100 for some wires so I decided to make it myself. I went to advance auto parts & pepboys and bought the "switch to start" wires in the battery section. these come in different lengths, be sure to get the shortest lengths possible: i used 2 40" and 3 18" lengths. i spent a total of about $30 and it took about 30 minutes to install. when you ground to the chassis of the car be sure to sand off the paint, I also sanded the factory ground point to insure a good ground. the total cost of this project was $30.
Impressions: the engine is smoother, especially after 3,500 RPM. It was noticeable rigt away. I don't know if this added any power, i think it does but it could all be in my head. I do know that my gas mileage improved slightly. I took a trip from Louisiana to Houston and got ~28mpg while previously I got about ~26mpg.
for $30 this a worthwhile mod.
Impressions: the engine is smoother, especially after 3,500 RPM. It was noticeable rigt away. I don't know if this added any power, i think it does but it could all be in my head. I do know that my gas mileage improved slightly. I took a trip from Louisiana to Houston and got ~28mpg while previously I got about ~26mpg.
for $30 this a worthwhile mod.
10-28-2002, 04:59 PM
#2
Re: Poorman's Hyperground review
I'm going to do the poorman's ground upgrade too. I can't justify spending that much for ground wires ... they're only wires after all.
You should get some grease or something and put it over the ground bolts so that they don't start to rust, especially where you sanded off the paint. Don't undo the bolts to put the grease, just put a glob over it to help keep moisture out.
I hate rust.
You should get some grease or something and put it over the ground bolts so that they don't start to rust, especially where you sanded off the paint. Don't undo the bolts to put the grease, just put a glob over it to help keep moisture out.
I hate rust.
10-28-2002, 05:02 PM
#3
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Re: Re: Poorman's Hyperground review
Originally posted by pocketrocket
I'm going to do the poorman's ground upgrade too. I can't justify spending that much for ground wires ... they're only wires after all.
You should get some grease or something and put it over the ground bolts so that they don't start to rust, especially where you sanded off the paint. Don't undo the bolts to put the grease, just put a glob over it to help keep moisture out.
I hate rust.
I'm going to do the poorman's ground upgrade too. I can't justify spending that much for ground wires ... they're only wires after all.
You should get some grease or something and put it over the ground bolts so that they don't start to rust, especially where you sanded off the paint. Don't undo the bolts to put the grease, just put a glob over it to help keep moisture out.
I hate rust.
I am laughing my azz off look everyone you can just go buy thick gauge wire and do this upgrade that his talking about. Shyt is about as thick as the amplifier wire that you use in your car. Cost will about $70.00 but try it out and see. I am going to do it too
You beat me to it but good job. Your lights should be brighter as well inside out.
10-28-2002, 06:23 PM
#4
my headlights seem to cast more light on the road now too, again this could all be in my head. BTW you don't need any kind of new battery post. I had two new wires going to my stock ground wire, I just took the screw out of the stock battery post thread through the new wire connectors, thread it back through the stock post and tightened it down.
if you really want the wires to look good get colored wires. speakerhole.com sells silver 4 gauge wire for like a dollar a foot.
if you really want the wires to look good get colored wires. speakerhole.com sells silver 4 gauge wire for like a dollar a foot.
10-29-2002, 07:15 AM
#7
the hyper ground wires are double shiedled, that is why i decided to spend the extra money..
i was going to do the poor man's version.. but i could not find the wiring i wanted..(i did not look very lokng though)
i was going to do the poor man's version.. but i could not find the wiring i wanted..(i did not look very lokng though)
10-29-2002, 07:19 AM
#8
Originally posted by redmaxpa007
the hyper ground wires are double shiedled, that is why i decided to spend the extra money..
i was going to do the poor man's version.. but i could not find the wiring i wanted..(i did not look very lokng though)
the hyper ground wires are double shiedled, that is why i decided to spend the extra money..
i was going to do the poor man's version.. but i could not find the wiring i wanted..(i did not look very lokng though)
take pics and let us know how it goes
10-29-2002, 07:20 AM
#9
Originally posted by redmaxpa007
the hyper ground wires are double shiedled, that is why i decided to spend the extra money..
i was going to do the poor man's version.. but i could not find the wiring i wanted..(i did not look very lokng though)
the hyper ground wires are double shiedled, that is why i decided to spend the extra money..
i was going to do the poor man's version.. but i could not find the wiring i wanted..(i did not look very lokng though)
You really think double shielding is needed on a stinkin' ground cable? Yikes....
...sounds like an excuse to spend more $$ on RICE to me...
10-29-2002, 07:29 AM
#10
Originally posted by mzmtg
You really think double shielding is needed on a stinkin' ground cable? Yikes....
...sounds like an excuse to spend more $$ on RICE to me...
You really think double shielding is needed on a stinkin' ground cable? Yikes....
...sounds like an excuse to spend more $$ on RICE to me...
10-29-2002, 07:47 AM
#13
Originally posted by redmaxpa007
decided to stay with the "easy to drive in traffic"
decided to stay with the "easy to drive in traffic"
Um, I have no idea what you're talking about...
My current "secret project" has nothing to do with transmissions. (Ordered my final part yesterday though
)
10-29-2002, 08:26 AM
#16
Originally posted by mzmtg
You really think double shielding is needed on a stinkin' ground cable? Yikes....
...sounds like an excuse to spend more $$ on RICE to me...
You really think double shielding is needed on a stinkin' ground cable? Yikes....
...sounds like an excuse to spend more $$ on RICE to me...
10-29-2002, 12:45 PM
#21
no pics sorry guys, but its really easy.
this is what you need:
2 40" switch to start battery wire
3 18" switch to start battery wire
(if you can try to get shorter wires but these lengths worked for me)
grounding points from Kevin Wong's post:
Yep, you are using existing holes and bolts. The kit comes with a battery extention post that allows two grounding rings (one is for your stock ground ring and the other is to allow for the Hyperground while still grounded to the battery). One wire goes from the battery post directly to the chasis (about 4 inches away). Another wire goes from the battery post to the intake manifold bolt. One wire goes from from the intake manifold to the engine block. Another goes from the intake manifold to the other side of the manifold. And finally another wire goes from the other side of the manifold to the chasis. So basically you are creating a daisy chain of groundings. There is absolutely no drilling needed.
I did a few things differently:
the intake manifold bolt I used is right above the oil filler cap, a gold bracket is held down by this bolt. the "manifold side bolt" used by hyperground was to hard to access. if you look to the left of the oil filler cap you will see a bolt holding a bracket that looks identical to the hyperground point but mych easier to access. remember the intake manifold bolt should have 3 wires connected at that point. the hyperground just adds new grounding points in series, the key is series and short wires for a low resistance path.
hope this helps
this is what you need:
2 40" switch to start battery wire
3 18" switch to start battery wire
(if you can try to get shorter wires but these lengths worked for me)
grounding points from Kevin Wong's post:
Yep, you are using existing holes and bolts. The kit comes with a battery extention post that allows two grounding rings (one is for your stock ground ring and the other is to allow for the Hyperground while still grounded to the battery). One wire goes from the battery post directly to the chasis (about 4 inches away). Another wire goes from the battery post to the intake manifold bolt. One wire goes from from the intake manifold to the engine block. Another goes from the intake manifold to the other side of the manifold. And finally another wire goes from the other side of the manifold to the chasis. So basically you are creating a daisy chain of groundings. There is absolutely no drilling needed.
I did a few things differently:
the intake manifold bolt I used is right above the oil filler cap, a gold bracket is held down by this bolt. the "manifold side bolt" used by hyperground was to hard to access. if you look to the left of the oil filler cap you will see a bolt holding a bracket that looks identical to the hyperground point but mych easier to access. remember the intake manifold bolt should have 3 wires connected at that point. the hyperground just adds new grounding points in series, the key is series and short wires for a low resistance path.
hope this helps
10-29-2002, 12:57 PM
#23
Originally posted by seven
one more thing, I recommend these switch to start wires because they are cheap, you don't have to buy the ring terminals and don't have to worry about crimping which is a PITA with 4 gauge wire.
one more thing, I recommend these switch to start wires because they are cheap, you don't have to buy the ring terminals and don't have to worry about crimping which is a PITA with 4 gauge wire.
10-29-2002, 02:49 PM
#24
Originally posted by Redmax
I'm just going to reground all of my points with zero guage wire!! That'll do it!
I'm just going to reground all of my points with zero guage wire!! That'll do it!
10-29-2002, 03:08 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,530
So you dont remove the cables that were already there but more or less just put the "Switch to start" wires in the same spots? So just overlay the "Switch to start" wires on the same place the old stock ones are or do you remove the old stock ones and replace them with the "Switch to start" cables?
SuDZ
SuDZ
10-29-2002, 03:13 PM
#26
Originally posted by seven
if you are talking about re-grounding the stock points then it wouldn't be worth it. the point of this system is to add "new" grounding points.
if you are talking about re-grounding the stock points then it wouldn't be worth it. the point of this system is to add "new" grounding points.
One final note of interest is that on the driver's side of the car the headlights have 1 ground. However, on the passenger side both the alternator and headlight have 2 grounds each. There are also 2 grounds on the intake manifold.
-hype
10-29-2002, 05:20 PM
#27
Originally posted by SuDZ
So you dont remove the cables that were already there but more or less just put the "Switch to start" wires in the same spots? So just overlay the "Switch to start" wires on the same place the old stock ones are or do you remove the old stock ones and replace them with the "Switch to start" cables?
SuDZ
So you dont remove the cables that were already there but more or less just put the "Switch to start" wires in the same spots? So just overlay the "Switch to start" wires on the same place the old stock ones are or do you remove the old stock ones and replace them with the "Switch to start" cables?
SuDZ
IMHO 4 gauge is more than sufficient for the factory grounds. its just like with car audio, 0 gauge isn't necessarily going to produce more wattage. the most important thing about the factory grounds is to remove the paint by sanding to insure metal to metal contact.
10-29-2002, 06:27 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 7,530
Originally posted by seven
the only spot where you have a pre-existing OEM ground point is the passenger headlight harness ground. the other points are new grounding points.
IMHO 4 gauge is more than sufficient for the factory grounds. its just like with car audio, 0 gauge isn't necessarily going to produce more wattage. the most important thing about the factory grounds is to remove the paint by sanding to insure metal to metal contact.
the only spot where you have a pre-existing OEM ground point is the passenger headlight harness ground. the other points are new grounding points.
IMHO 4 gauge is more than sufficient for the factory grounds. its just like with car audio, 0 gauge isn't necessarily going to produce more wattage. the most important thing about the factory grounds is to remove the paint by sanding to insure metal to metal contact.
SuDZ
10-30-2002, 01:14 AM
#29
Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posts: 295
ground points on 5th gen
Other than the stock battery ground, are these the points where you all have been grounding your new wires to?
Does it make sense to run wires where there is no wire/fusebox/relay harnesses? ie. horn ground
142KB 1024x768
bp
Does it make sense to run wires where there is no wire/fusebox/relay harnesses? ie. horn ground
142KB 1024x768
bp
10-30-2002, 07:59 AM
#31
Re: ground points on 5th gen
Originally posted by pinakbet
Other than the stock battery ground, are these the points where you all have been grounding your new wires to?
Does it make sense to run wires where there is no wire/fusebox/relay harnesses? ie. horn ground
142KB 1024x768
bp
Other than the stock battery ground, are these the points where you all have been grounding your new wires to?
Does it make sense to run wires where there is no wire/fusebox/relay harnesses? ie. horn ground
142KB 1024x768
bp
10-30-2002, 08:29 AM
#32
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Posts: n/a
So, all that is being done here is you all are taking thicker gauge wire and connecting all of them to these ground points? And to be more clear, are you all "removing" the old wires and adding these in their place or what? I don't exactly get what is going on here.
10-30-2002, 09:37 AM
#33
Originally posted by Ramius83
So, all that is being done here is you all are taking thicker gauge wire and connecting all of them to these ground points? And to be more clear, are you all "removing" the old wires and adding these in their place or what? I don't exactly get what is going on here.
So, all that is being done here is you all are taking thicker gauge wire and connecting all of them to these ground points? And to be more clear, are you all "removing" the old wires and adding these in their place or what? I don't exactly get what is going on here.
there are several thigs you can do.. clean the GND's and then the following
1) make a 2nd GND for your battery
2) use a thicker wire for the battery GND and the enginge GND
3) use bigger wires for the GND's in the entire engine bay
11-08-2002, 07:52 PM
#35
I decided to try a modified version of Anachronism's Walmart Hyper Ground system list in thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=143059 I went to Walmart and bought the following:
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(2x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps
My goal was to improve the grounding by cleaning the existing groundpoints and adding more copper... (plus have a project to do)
I ran the 58" cable from the alternator ground up over the timing cover across the wiring harness to the negative terminal on the battery (perfect fit). I ran the 43" wires from the 2 groundpoints below the intake manifold up to and across the wiring harness over to a chasis groundpoint I created using an existing threaded bolt hole on top behind the driver headlight (I believe part of the alarm system was mounted there.) Next I ran the 27" wires from the negative terminal of the battery, and the engine ground bracket, to the other threaded hole that exists. Lastly, I used the 19" cable to go from the passenger side front harness ground to the alternator ground (This was my only daisy chain.)
I have seen nice improvements in my 97 SE. Gas mileage and power have increased, plus the car feels smoother. The best part... the final cost w/tax ($23.00). If anyone wants pictures let me know and I'll take and send them some or if someone wants to post them. This actually looks very clean and pretty cool.
Notes: I used a burnishing tool in a drill to remove the paint around all the chasis ground I created or used. I left the existing battery-engine ground wire unchanged. Both grounds added to the negative battery terminal fit by removing the bolt and putting the bolt through them first and then through the terminal clamp.
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(2x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps
My goal was to improve the grounding by cleaning the existing groundpoints and adding more copper... (plus have a project to do)
I ran the 58" cable from the alternator ground up over the timing cover across the wiring harness to the negative terminal on the battery (perfect fit). I ran the 43" wires from the 2 groundpoints below the intake manifold up to and across the wiring harness over to a chasis groundpoint I created using an existing threaded bolt hole on top behind the driver headlight (I believe part of the alarm system was mounted there.) Next I ran the 27" wires from the negative terminal of the battery, and the engine ground bracket, to the other threaded hole that exists. Lastly, I used the 19" cable to go from the passenger side front harness ground to the alternator ground (This was my only daisy chain.)
I have seen nice improvements in my 97 SE. Gas mileage and power have increased, plus the car feels smoother. The best part... the final cost w/tax ($23.00). If anyone wants pictures let me know and I'll take and send them some or if someone wants to post them. This actually looks very clean and pretty cool.
Notes: I used a burnishing tool in a drill to remove the paint around all the chasis ground I created or used. I left the existing battery-engine ground wire unchanged. Both grounds added to the negative battery terminal fit by removing the bolt and putting the bolt through them first and then through the terminal clamp.
11-10-2002, 07:38 AM
#36
Originally posted by jjlash
I decided to try a modified version of Anachronism's Walmart Hyper Ground system list in thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=143059 I went to Walmart and bought the following:
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(2x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps
My goal was to improve the grounding by cleaning the existing groundpoints and adding more copper... (plus have a project to do)
I ran the 58" cable from the alternator ground up over the timing cover across the wiring harness to the negative terminal on the battery (perfect fit). I ran the 43" wires from the 2 groundpoints below the intake manifold up to and across the wiring harness over to a chasis groundpoint I created using an existing threaded bolt hole on top behind the driver headlight (I believe part of the alarm system was mounted there.) Next I ran the 27" wires from the negative terminal of the battery, and the engine ground bracket, to the other threaded hole that exists. Lastly, I used the 19" cable to go from the passenger side front harness ground to the alternator ground (This was my only daisy chain.)
I have seen nice improvements in my 97 SE. Gas mileage and power have increased, plus the car feels smoother. The best part... the final cost w/tax ($23.00). If anyone wants pictures let me know and I'll take and send them some or if someone wants to post them. This actually looks very clean and pretty cool.
Notes: I used a burnishing tool in a drill to remove the paint around all the chasis ground I created or used. I left the existing battery-engine ground wire unchanged. Both grounds added to the negative battery terminal fit by removing the bolt and putting the bolt through them first and then through the terminal clamp.
I decided to try a modified version of Anachronism's Walmart Hyper Ground system list in thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=143059 I went to Walmart and bought the following:
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(2x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps
My goal was to improve the grounding by cleaning the existing groundpoints and adding more copper... (plus have a project to do)
I ran the 58" cable from the alternator ground up over the timing cover across the wiring harness to the negative terminal on the battery (perfect fit). I ran the 43" wires from the 2 groundpoints below the intake manifold up to and across the wiring harness over to a chasis groundpoint I created using an existing threaded bolt hole on top behind the driver headlight (I believe part of the alarm system was mounted there.) Next I ran the 27" wires from the negative terminal of the battery, and the engine ground bracket, to the other threaded hole that exists. Lastly, I used the 19" cable to go from the passenger side front harness ground to the alternator ground (This was my only daisy chain.)
I have seen nice improvements in my 97 SE. Gas mileage and power have increased, plus the car feels smoother. The best part... the final cost w/tax ($23.00). If anyone wants pictures let me know and I'll take and send them some or if someone wants to post them. This actually looks very clean and pretty cool.
Notes: I used a burnishing tool in a drill to remove the paint around all the chasis ground I created or used. I left the existing battery-engine ground wire unchanged. Both grounds added to the negative battery terminal fit by removing the bolt and putting the bolt through them first and then through the terminal clamp.
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(3x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps ($1.19)
11-10-2002, 10:27 AM
#37
Originally posted by jjlash
There was one more 27" cable that I had purchased originally and finally decided to run yesterday (drivers side harness.) Same final price for the project. I also have noticed an improvement in the brightness of the lights.
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(3x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps ($1.19)
There was one more 27" cable that I had purchased originally and finally decided to run yesterday (drivers side harness.) Same final price for the project. I also have noticed an improvement in the brightness of the lights.
(1x) 58" 4 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (Auto, $4.27)
(2x) 43" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.96)
(3x) 27" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) 19" 6 Gauge "Switch to Starter" cable (lawn mower, $2.48)
(1x) pkg of black tie wraps ($1.19)
11-10-2002, 01:09 PM
#39
I also did a poorman's hyperground...
I went to pepboys and bought all the 4g switch to start wires they had. Note that I retained the stock negative battery post wire (which bolts to the body ground and then ends at the engine ground bracket).
Below are the ones I could actually use:
one 49" -from the alternator ground bracket to the engine ground bracket.
one 32" -from the engine ground bracket to the neg post on the battery (Supplementing the stock neg post-to body - to engine bracket wire)
two 40" -each one from the intake manifold grounds to the factory body ground.
I sanded every point of contact, whether it be the factory ring connectors or the body. I treated each point with dielectric grease for corrision resistance. I sanded the headlight harness contact areas (body and ring connectors) and reinstalled the bolts.
I noticed a difference in how my car behaves. It revs a bit smoother. Prior to the poorman's grounds, sometimes when I release the throttle in the first 2 gears around 2000-3000 RPM range, my car bucks a bit when the revs drop. You can see the tach needle drop in a choppy manner. Now when I release the throttle the RPMs drop a lot smoother. It idles smoother and with the air conditioner on it idles smoother and at a lower RPM. Before it would be around 850-900 RPM with the AC on. Now its around 750-800 RPM. This is an awesome mod! Best $23 I spent
Below are the ones I could actually use:
one 49" -from the alternator ground bracket to the engine ground bracket.
one 32" -from the engine ground bracket to the neg post on the battery (Supplementing the stock neg post-to body - to engine bracket wire)
two 40" -each one from the intake manifold grounds to the factory body ground.
I sanded every point of contact, whether it be the factory ring connectors or the body. I treated each point with dielectric grease for corrision resistance. I sanded the headlight harness contact areas (body and ring connectors) and reinstalled the bolts.
I noticed a difference in how my car behaves. It revs a bit smoother. Prior to the poorman's grounds, sometimes when I release the throttle in the first 2 gears around 2000-3000 RPM range, my car bucks a bit when the revs drop. You can see the tach needle drop in a choppy manner. Now when I release the throttle the RPMs drop a lot smoother. It idles smoother and with the air conditioner on it idles smoother and at a lower RPM. Before it would be around 850-900 RPM with the AC on. Now its around 750-800 RPM. This is an awesome mod! Best $23 I spent
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